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      08-12-2010, 12:28 AM   #23
fancyfl1ght
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I feel your pain!

Quote:
Originally Posted by miiipilot View Post
I feel your pain. My drive to work is only 3.5 miles and can't put many miles on at all.

The agony of waiting for the fun...PAINFUL!

miiipilot
I have 700 miles on the ODO and my commute to work is 1.5 miles! ARRGH!
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      08-12-2010, 01:15 AM   #24
notilloc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onlyar18 View Post
I'm only at 500kms on mine. Its hard not to put your foot down. I have not reved mine above 4.5k but have stepped on it a few times each day. pretty much 3/4 to WOT, i hope this is not too bad for it. I've been trying to go easy on the breaks and being soft on the clutch.

Haven't really floored it in first, usually wait until second before i push her and have barely spun the tires.

Gonna wait until 2000kms before i start going harder and probably wont test out redline till 3000k or so.
I think the only way it would be really hard on your car is if you didnt let the engine brake by itself. For example if you floored it and hit redline and then immediately hit the brakes without any engine braking that would be hard on a new engine.
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      08-12-2010, 09:13 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notilloc View Post
People probably wont be very happy with me posting this up but its another option if you want. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Its called a hard break in and it has worked fantastic on all of my vehicles. You have already gone too far on yours to get the full effects but you never know it could help, but I have done 3 motorcycles (ninja 650, ninja zx-6r, ninja zx-10r) and 2 cars(toyota fj cruiser, Subaru wrx sti) this way and the engines are very stong in all of my vehicles. I just run hard the second I get my vehicles and make sure I change the oil a lot. I change at 20 miles 100 miles 500 miles and again at 1500 and then you are good to go. It is still very important to do lots of engine braking in all rev ranges but especially at higher rpms. Lots of oil changes but from what I have seen it really seats the rings well. Also if you are not going to be changing your own oil it would be really costly. I do not own a bmw yet but as soon as I do I will be doing it the same way as all my other vehicles.

To everyone else I am sorry if this makes you mad but it is something that has been practiced in the racing world for quite some time now and I am just offering another opinon. I know I am new to this forum but no so new to the car world so please dont blow it out of proportion.
here we go
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      08-12-2010, 11:21 AM   #26
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460 miles here. 3 miles to work every day. But I put 120 on it the first night
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      08-12-2010, 10:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosaymaan View Post
I'm 900 miles in... have yet to redline the car...can't wait to start really driving the car. Any thoughts?
You can start tomorrow.

You don't have to do a hard stand still launch at 5k, WFO to red line.

Start off normally, get on the highway, find a clear safe section, drop a gear or two and try a near WFO run to red line, then let some engine braking drop you back down.

Do a search and you'll find a plethora of threads on this very subject with many points of view. Yes, it will get confusing as you'll get the "do it by the book or fail" point of view, or the "drive it hard from day one" mantra, or various combinations of such.

Pick what you're comfortable with, because many of us are set in our ways. So, if one guy tells you this, another will tell you that, and they'll argue with each other while others will chime in agreeing with either.

Here's somethings I've accumulated over the years of working on cars and bikes, and talking and learning from others, and gathering info on the web.
This seems to be the only things there appears to be some consensus on.
-Don't simply fire up and go WFO or to red line on a cold engine.
-Wait at least a couple hundred miles before getting on it really hard, mainly because there are other things besides the engine to consider as they need break in, such as;
brakes, tires, clutch, trans bits, an other moving parts with parts that meet each other.
-Don't "lug" the engine by being in too high of a gear and too low in rpm.
Example: Going 20mph in 4th and giving it big throttle to move faster.
-Don't do a few hundred mile highway trip on a new car with the cruise set at a steady speed. Vary the engine speed and load for at least a few hundred miles.

That's really about it. That's how much variance there is.
Also, consider how often you actually hear of an engine going BOOM these days? Not often at all, even with all the various opinions and break in methods. Seems everyone is right and wrong, given the lack of actual engines going bust.

*Interestingly, for me, one of the oddest things I've read and heard is that you'll find people who say to abide by the letter of what BMW recommends. But then, some of those very same people will tell you to change your oil within the first 1000 miles, which is not at all what BMW recommends. They don't NOT recommend it, but they also do not say it needs to be done.

Read up, consider what's being suggested and why, investigate the claims by reading information written by professionals, the decide what you want to do. Of course, you could skip all of this entirely and just go with what BMW recommends, as it will never hurt you (BTW, I don't follow that method). Just don't lug the engine, and let it warm up a bit before smacking the loud pedal.
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      08-12-2010, 10:28 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom K. View Post
Hard break in has been discussed on line many times - but no one has come up with a satisfactory reason as to why no auto or motorcycle manufacturer recommends it.

Tom
Well, at least with MC engines they are broken in at the factory, and are run hard to red line for the first moments of their life, once warmed of course.
So, even though the manual recommendations are for a "light break in", there really isn't a satisfactory explanation as to why that is recommended either, considering what happens at the factory.

Also, there have been explanations as to why nearly all manufacturers recommend a light break in. It just depends on whether you accept it or not. Also, nearly all of them are also called "recommended", not "required". That says something too, as no manufacturer will void your warranty if you don't follow their "recommendation".
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