135i Convertible Glass Detaching

[MooreBoost]

The rear glass window on the convertible top of my '08 135i is detaching.

Can it be re-glued?

Thank you,
Garrett

[128Convertibleguy]

BMW says no. If the rear window requires replacement BMW will only replace the whole top.

No idea if some independent shop disagrees.

[Ghent]

ugh.. that really makes me think twice about getting a convertible on my next BMW

[motley2012]

Speak to an independent trimmer. The glass must be bonded to the roof fabric in the factory so the answer must be yes.

I can't find the thread, but someone did do this on this site.

[TheCaptain]

I've owned lots of convertibles, and this happened to all of them with age. It's unfortunate that it happened so soon to yours, I've never seen it on a car less than 10 years old. I never had it fixed on any of mine but there are some convertible top specialists out there that can do a good job on repairs like this. Just look for a specialist in your area and see what they'd recommend.

[germ]

Happened on mt TT...after 10 years.
Re-gluing it is very difficult, messy, and it probably won't hold for long.
Yes, cars today aren't built to last anymore.
Replace top or sell it.

[halfhalo]

Originally Posted by garrettmoore

The rear glass window on the convertible top of my '08 135i is detaching.

Can it be re-glued?

Thank you,
Garrett

Yes, but get a professional to do it. I had a guy reglue mine for 200 (albeit with plain windshield adhesive, which didn't last).

Order some 3M black weatherstrip adhesive to do it. While you could attempt to do it yourself with this, its nasty (I marked a part of my black top with it. If you look closely a sliver looks to be "filled in" where the adhesive sunk into the top) and needs time to set, plus an extremely clean surface to bond to. And you need to take into account the fabric stretching in the heat/shrinking in the cold which can lead to the window rattling on the bottom frame.


Another option I don't recommend is what I did, which is use Rhino glue and do it myself. The glue is noticeable (unlike the 3M) if you stand over the window, but its relatively easy to use in a pinch, is decently strong, and waterproof.

I have applied Rhino Glue twice: once as a quick fix last winter when the windshield adhesive failed and rain was in the forecast. Got a bucket, wrapped it in towels and stuck it between the top and the cowl, plus a bunch more towels to prop the back of the top up off the deck to lessen the tension, and a box with a towel around it carefully propping the back window up (CAREFULLY! You break a defroster line and your screwed).

It held fine all through winter. No leaks, no seperation.


Second time I reglued it was this last summer. I had noticed in the heat (think 100+ F days) that the rear window was resting on two metal support brackets and rattling over certain bumps, which greatly annoyed me. That combined with the noticeable fabric bulge lead me to want to reglue the top, which at this time was still attached with Rhino Glue.

That lasted right up until I washed the car on a super hot day (for the stretched fabric to make reattaching it easier on me). Cold water caused the fabric to shrink enough, and apparently in such a way that part of the glue job did give.


Second reglue is still holding fine. No leaks, no seperation through temps ranging from 106 to 35 F. One of these days I will have it professionally redone, but not until it separates on its own.



Option 3 would be to get the outer layer replaced. IIRC its in the 800-1200 range for just the part, plus labor (preferably at a convertible shop for this).


TL;DR:

Option 1: Get a professional to reglue it with 3M Weatherstrip. Ballpark it around 200 for a good job, and 3-4 days. <-- Recommended.

Option 2: Rhino glue it yourself for around 30. Mostly doable, but is visible if looking over window. Still need to clean and prep surfaces and make sure to not damage the window.

Option 3: Replace outer skin for 800-1200 plus labor. Most expensive, but brand new top fabric and rear window (in case anything is wrong with the current window)

[BrokenVert]

Would you mind taking some photos? I'm having trouble visualizing exactly what's happening

[jefftodd]

I just reglued mine . Will post the details if it works well.

[blue135]

I have had the same problem with my e88. I had a reputable convertible/upholstery shop try a repair. Cost was $250. Owner was clear that he would not guarantee repair but would apply cost to new top if it did not.

Repair did not work, so before I went to new top, I tried a unique hot glue that I had access to. Some folks in Europe use the glue to secure undermount sinks and have success sealing from leaks.

It has worked for about a year now, including a few of our summer torrents down here. But again, I view it as a temporary fix. And I was not as careful as I should have been so the results may not work visually for some people.

Point is, there are some temporary fixes as highlighted here and in other posts above. But they are temporary.

[jefftodd]

Well it has been a week and so far so good. Basically I used blue painter tape on window, razor cut around old glue line. Same tape on top wrapped around top's edge, razor cut to top's old glue line. This took over 1hr to do. Download 3m Window weld instructions. I noted that they imply that glue thickness was important.This maybe key. Put a bead on window old glue line set top into glue, held in place with bricks, thus allowing for some glue bead thickness as opposed to squeezing the interface tight.Glue ,align ,brick one section at a time fairly quickly as glue has short work time.Also noted cure time left bricks in place overnite. Didnot latch top for 30hrs. Window weld was instock at advance.

[xQx]

Has anyone tried drilling a hole or two through the glass to add bolts for extra support?

I'm wondering if it's perspex and just risks cracking, if it's safety glass which is going to shatter if the internal skin is compromised?

I've been quoted $2700 AUD for a new top, and everyone I talk to won't glue it because they're convinced it doesn't hold.

[xQx]

For reference, you can't drill through the glass. It's safety glass, it'll shatter.

Getting windscreen cover with your insurance then hammering a rock into the middle of the back window would be a good strategy if you're dishonest.

Interestingly, it didn't shatter when I drilled the hole, and I hadn't even drilled to the halfway point. the glass stayed intact for amost a whole day, then i came back about 24 hours later to find the windscreen as per below.

(I knew there was a very real possibility of this outcome before I started, but 8 figured "nothing ventured nothing gained". Now we all know )

[champignon]

Originally Posted by xQx

For reference, you can't drill through the glass. It's safety glass, it'll shatter.

Getting windscreen cover with your insurance then hammering a rock into the middle of the back window would be a good strategy if you're dishonest.

Interestingly, it didn't shatter when I drilled the hole, and I hadn't even drilled to the halfway point. the glass stayed intact for amost a whole day, then i came back about 24 hours later to find the windscreen as per below.

(I knew there was a very real possibility of this outcome before I started, but 8 figured "nothing ventured nothing gained". Now we all know )

I guess this shows that you can't shine shit

[xQx]

I thought I'd share some very unflattering progress pics of the path less traveled - how to repair the back window of an E88 yourself, without spending more than $100.

[xQx]

Here's part 2 of how to repair your back window like a hillbilly.

So far it's cost $44.00 AUD.
(... and so far it looks like a cheap shitty $44.00 repair; but at least I can drive in the rain again.)

I'm hoping to straighten out the fitting when it comes time to gluing.

I used MDF with the centre cut out to make a template before making the final cut with perspex. It's much easier to position the window when you've got a big hole in the middle to grab it by - otherwise you'd really need somebody inside the car and somebody outside the car to hold it in position when you trace it etc.

With the perspex, zip ties made it trivial to get the window in the right position - and secured in such a way that you know it's never going to move. I'm sure this would all be possible using only glue, but it'd be a much more difficult job.

I do 90% of the driving in this car with the top down, so I could give a rats how this looks. ... I'll just have to fork out the $3k for a new roof before I consider selling the car.

IF you had two people and a lot of time, you could've done this so it looked _almost_ OEM, but it's always going to look a bit off because the perspex is flat, whereas a convertible window is actually quite curved.

[1N4ttro]

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...olstery&page=2

[1N4ttro]

Originally Posted by xQx

Here's part 2 of how to repair your back window like a hillbilly.

So far it's cost $44.00 AUD.
(... and so far it looks like a cheap shitty $44.00 repair; but at least I can drive in the rain again.)

I'm hoping to straighten out the fitting when it comes time to gluing.

I used MDF with the centre cut out to make a template before making the final cut with perspex. It's much easier to position the window when you've got a big hole in the middle to grab it by - otherwise you'd really need somebody inside the car and somebody outside the car to hold it in position when you trace it etc.

With the perspex, zip ties made it trivial to get the window in the right position - and secured in such a way that you know it's never going to move. I'm sure this would all be possible using only glue, but it'd be a much more difficult job.

I do 90% of the driving in this car with the top down, so I could give a rats how this looks. ... I'll just have to fork out the $3k for a new roof before I consider selling the car.

IF you had two people and a lot of time, you could've done this so it looked _almost_ OEM, but it's always going to look a bit off because the perspex is flat, whereas a convertible window is actually quite curved.

[Matticus91]

Wow lol I guess that works

[xQx]

Originally Posted by Matticus91

Wow lol I guess that works

Hahaha. I know.

When my old man comes to visit later this year, I'm thinking of re-doing it with just glue. Having slept on it, and having done it one before - I actually think it'll be quite easy, and since perspex weighs a fraction of what the OEM glass window did, I expect regular every-day silicone to hold. Also, looking at the photos, if it didn't have zip ties and grubby tape glue on the fabric all around the edge, it'd pass in a crowd.

My biggest issue now is how to get that awful 100mile/hr tape glue off the fabric.

I'll bring this thread back from the dead when I do it properly and actually do a job I can be proud of.

I just look at the cost of a new roof and think "I could have a M3 style Sebion hood, CF diffuser and quad exhaust installed for the price I'm paying to get that f*cking roof replaced." ... it's simply an issue of priorities