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      12-12-2012, 02:47 PM   #23
GeeRam
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Originally Posted by 1Pirate View Post
You don't know what model year your car is?
BMW only use model year identity for the USA market.
There's no way of identifing the model year for any other market outside of the USA.
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      12-12-2012, 03:25 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by GeeRam View Post
BMW only use model year identity for the USA market.
There's no way of identifing the model year for any other market outside of the USA.
Interesting. I did not know that.
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      12-15-2012, 02:55 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by totobmw View Post
Thanks for this, I will give it a go. From what I read Koni Yellows are better buy?
Also will I have to change the springs or will this be fine with just a replacement of shocks?
Sorry it took a while for me to reply. Koni yellows are very expensive, that's why I went with the Bilstein HD's. Great dampers for the money. Bav Auto is where I got mine. $470 for all 4, and I did not replace the springs. I believe the Koni's will set you back $700-$800, without a lifetime warranty like the HD's have. I would not replace the struts without changing tires, the ride would be too stiff. For perspective, I took my 72 year old mother for a ride after I did the struts/tires, and she noticed the difference without me mentioning it. Really a big improvement.
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      02-12-2013, 05:08 PM   #26
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Resurrecting this one from the dead:

I changed to non-rft's for a more comfortable ride (Continental DWS). My car is approaching 50,000 miles on it. Is it a good idea to change suspension parts? Which parts have the highest priority? I really want to maintain the comfort in driving, and reduce the possibility of getting a flat from hitting big potholes in these New York streets... I'm starting to think that after hitting so many tough potholes, some of the parts aren't eating the impact enough anymore.

I'm curious, as a newb, do the suspension parts wear over time?
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      02-12-2013, 05:32 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Pig Farmer View Post
IMHO you should at a minimum consider swapping out your sway bar for an E92 M3 sway bar. The M3 sway bar will help reduce body roll without sacrificing comfort. I would also pull the pins in the strut towers and max out your negative camber. You'll only get a couple 10ths of a degree of additional negative camber, but doing this will help you retain some of your steering percission (especially since you are going +1 on your tire size). These minor mods will pay for themselves through improved tire wear, but keep in mind that finding the perfect balance can be a slippery and costly slope. Good luck!
The OP's description of how he uses the car does not suggest to me that a stiffer sway bar is necessary. Most drivers simply dislike the feel of roll, rather than its affect on the suspension geometry (i.e. he's not experiencing understeer on normal roads). But it's a fairly cheap mod luckily.


First1,
Yes, bushings wear over time, some more than others. Usually it gives the car more of a sloppy feeling than lack of absorption.
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      02-12-2013, 05:34 PM   #28
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First1,
Yes, bushings wear over time, some more than others. Usually it gives the car more of a sloppy feeling than lack of absorption.
^Bushings refer to... all suspension parts collectively? [/newb]
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      02-13-2013, 04:04 PM   #29
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123d M Sport

I hated the RFTs and the harsh ride so much that when I changed to Yokohama Advan Sport non-RFTs, it was like driving another car. The 123d with M Sport pack has a harsh ride to start with.

Now, while it might not point as directly into corners on mirror-glass roads, who drives on these every day? Moreover, I am not doing track work. The reality is that Australian roads, apart from most motorways, are far from smooth.

I've done about 4,000 kms on the Advan Sport tyres, and whether on dry or wet roads, on straights or cornering, I am convinced of the wisdom of the decision to get rid of the run-craps.

Bilstein HD dampers would make another big difference I am sure.
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      02-13-2013, 09:39 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by FIRST1 View Post
^Bushings refer to... all suspension parts collectively? [/newb]
No. I would not expect the majority of metal parts to wear out for the life of the car unless they are damaged in some way. The control arm itself for example. But there are a lot of joints in car suspensions and these are what typically wear out first. Analogy I might use is bones and cartilage in the body.
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      02-11-2014, 07:34 AM   #31
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Old thread but the best I have found on this subject so bumping it up.

I plan on finally replacing my run flats.

I want to do the bare minimum to keep some kind of quality to everything. My car is a 2011
So to summarise and try get confirmation:
Tyres
Koni Shocks/dampers at same ride height
M3 bushings everywhere

This is enough?
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      02-11-2014, 11:03 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsHectic View Post
Old thread but the best I have found on this subject so bumping it up.

I plan on finally replacing my run flats.

I want to do the bare minimum to keep some kind of quality to everything. My car is a 2011
So to summarise and try get confirmation:
Tyres
Koni Shocks/dampers at same ride height
M3 bushings everywhere

This is enough?
That would be a pretty fantastic upgrade with no downsides aside from cost(the best kind of mod). You have a well balanced approach.
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      02-11-2014, 04:54 PM   #33
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Thanks.
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      02-11-2014, 07:45 PM   #34
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I was planning on doing the same mods ItsHectic, were you planning on using the stock springs from your 2011 with the koni dampers? I have a 2012 and have been debating between the konis and bilstein hds with stock springs. I feel like the bilsteins were meant to go with stock springs while the konis were mainly for lowering ones, but I'm not sure.
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      02-12-2014, 06:00 AM   #35
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Okay so I just got a qoute for the work.
I was gonna go with just the dampers but the guy at the shop somehow talked me into getting Koni adjustable coil overs, I want to keep the stock ride height though or maybe just a CM lower as I go through some narrow bumps at times.

if I were in your situation bselim3 I would get the bilsteins, I just might too, I am really undecided on dampers only or coil overs.

I would really like to know if the shocks alone really go with the M sport springs. If there is any chance they dont I will go with coil overs.

He tried to say I dont need rear bushings but I know I do and I want them so I dont get a disconnected feeling on the rear.

These are the prices I got, keep in mind I am in Australia where everything is more expensive! tyres are double the price but I am excluding them here.

cobb tune 995 supplied + 90 installed

airfilter install 50


fit tyres 80

I am gonna get PSS tyres.

M3 control arms + bushings 470

I am NOT getting sway bars as I do not track the car.

M3 rear subframe bushings 270 supplied + 1000 installed

koni shocks 6-800 supplied +500 installed
OR
coil overs 1299 supplied + 450 installed

I am most excited with the M3 control arms and PSS as it will make the car feel even more awesome

Edit I am now tossing up between a non adjustable kit and this: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...tein/ES248929/
I have contacted Bilstein to see if it designed for non RFT, or can this be answered here?
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Last edited by ItsHectic; 02-12-2014 at 06:52 AM.
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      02-12-2014, 01:35 PM   #36
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The main reason I changed to NON-RFT was price.
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      02-12-2014, 01:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bselim3 View Post
I was planning on doing the same mods ItsHectic, were you planning on using the stock springs from your 2011 with the koni dampers? I have a 2012 and have been debating between the konis and bilstein hds with stock springs. I feel like the bilsteins were meant to go with stock springs while the konis were mainly for lowering ones, but I'm not sure.
Koni yellows are designed to work with stock springs as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsHectic View Post
Okay so I just got a qoute for the work.

These are the prices I got, keep in mind I am in Australia where everything is more expensive! tyres are double the price but I am excluding them here.

cobb tune 995 supplied + 90 installed

airfilter install 50


fit tyres 80

I am gonna get PSS tyres.

M3 control arms + bushings 470

I am NOT getting sway bars as I do not track the car.

M3 rear subframe bushings 270 supplied + 1000 installed

koni shocks 6-800 supplied +500 installed
OR
coil overs 1299 supplied + 450 installed

I am most excited with the M3 control arms and PSS as it will make the car feel even more awesome

Edit I am now tossing up between a non adjustable kit and this: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...tein/ES248929/
I have contacted Bilstein to see if it designed for non RFT, or can this be answered here?
These all seem like exceptionally high labor costs, especially the items I bolded. Air filter is a 30 second job. Subframe bushings took me ~2 hours with normal tools and no previous experience. Cobb tune is just done via a button push.

For the cost of the labor here, you could fully equip yourself with all the tools you need, and have almost enough money to buy a lift for your garage.

http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/two-post-lifts/
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      02-13-2014, 06:08 PM   #38
ItsHectic
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I have 2 left hands though except when it comes to computers.

Bilstein got back to me and said the suspension is designed for both RFT and non RFT. I am pretty set on getting the electronically adjustable suspension.

The roads can be bad in Sydney, hit a pot hole yesterday at about 60km (was actually just a sewer drain below road level) and it made a loud KATHUNK and my dad was like oh shit cause he isnt used to sports cars.
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Last edited by ItsHectic; 02-13-2014 at 06:14 PM.
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      02-14-2014, 02:39 PM   #39
ItsHectic
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Is this a set of 4 or only 2? Would I need to buy 2 lots?
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...tein/ES248929/
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