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      09-02-2023, 07:44 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernDancer View Post
Nice car; are you doing the work outside or hidden in a garage? I have the feeling, right or wrong, that doing work outside might annoy the neighbours.
Things to consider: buy a Mickey Mouse flange and keep it in your glove box until you have a chance to change it. Get something into your seat leather if the leather is very dry-you don't want it cracking.

Thanks a million for posting this - let me tell you why:


I've experienced some of BMW's best and worst products. Old school BMW has been eroded into surviving the modern era where brand, cost and bottom line have to achieve a financial result. From driver oriented cars and buttery M54's to heat corroding N63's it pains me to see them use plastics on key components. Came across the Mickey Mouse flange here and there but never gave it much thought. Surprises me they used this on the N5x motors.

A couple years ago post a slow coolant leak, I had to replace the dreaded Y coolant pipe on the N63 which lies in front of the hot V deep in the engine. And guess what? It's made of plastic. And there are no aftermarket metal parts - Rein makes a replacement but joy of joys, it's also plastic. Absolutely ridiculous. Why do they do this? (that's a rhetorical question as you guys all know why).



So, as soon as I saw this post and researched a bit - I was like, ok this is my next FCP order. But on the off-chance that the previous owner did this I decided to go take a look at the 1er.

Popped the hood, took a look inside before the sun went down and I was a bit perplexed. See image below. That is definitely not a part from a 60K+ car judging from the newness of the plastic. This led me to pull out the parts replacement list from BMW a couple weeks ago when they replaced the OFHG. I vaguely recall the mechanic calling me prior to confirming to do the repair that they had found oil leaking down to the coolant hoses and were replacing a few other parts.


So sure enough, I find part # 1153 7584 549 in the bill which is the hose (and includes the mickey mouse flange). Therefore it's a new albeit plastic part that has been replaced.

I feel relieved but at the same time, very pissed it's plastic. Given it's a new hose and flange, changing it might not be a bad time now while it still hasn't gotten gunked up and fused in together.


As far as the neighbours are concerned - it's all good. I'm not a hard core mechanic so I don't do a lot outside. The guy in front of me has 5 cars - one being an F87 M2 - and works nights (I imagine) as he starts the car up around 1:30am and it shudders the whole street.. I don't mind much hearing it though... :-)
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      09-02-2023, 09:32 AM   #46
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Took a cruise yesterday on one of the coastal roads near my place to see how the newly resorted Nav screen fared. I have to say it wasn't bad at all during the day - have yet to drive at night but don't think it'd be an issue.

The only problem was that I can now see a gap between the screen and the housing on the sides as I only put the rubber molding on the top and bottom edges. Strange as when I had it on the work table at home the sides looked fine but mounting it in the car and with full sunlight the small gap is visible. Will have to take it apart and mold the sides and that should do it.


I ordered new ///M door sills from Schmiedmann as mine are falling apart - as is the damn headliner which just came apart a couple days ago.


Also pulled the trigger on these double slat grilles which I've been wanting to do for some time.
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      09-02-2023, 10:11 AM   #47
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Quote:
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Then there are the 313s. To my eye, the best wheel on the series.
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Originally Posted by fotontom View Post
I agree the 313's are among the best, but no apologies for my own favorite, The M3 CSL style.

I don't know - the 313's lines don't flow as well as the stock M-Sports to me. CSL is better but not enough to go out and buy them.

This is a good example of clean, classy and sporty - anyone here own this?...
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      09-04-2023, 09:51 AM   #48
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Just ordered these for the trunk. Went to check on the car earlier this afternoon and the roundel has gone - not too sure if that was from the drive the other day. The silver base is there but missing the blue and white...
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      09-04-2023, 02:33 PM   #49
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Damn! Exactly my problem last week. Where did you get the emblem?
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      09-04-2023, 06:24 PM   #50
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Quote:
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Damn! Exactly my problem last week. Where did you get the emblem?
It's part number #51147166445 and the two grommets are #51141807495.

FCP, ECS and Schmiedmann all carry them but I ended up buying local this time as it was slightly cheaper considering international shipping and the current Dollar/Yen rate.
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      09-05-2023, 08:17 AM   #51
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Good Neighbors

One of my Neighbors down the street came to my door this evening. He's out walking his dogs quite often and I've seen him a few times when I'm out washing the cars.

He said he found the BMW roundel down the street a ways - and had approached 2 other neighbors on our section with BMWs in search of the owner... Really nice person and I really appreciated it and we got to talking for a while.


I've already ordered the new badge so I'm keeping this on my 'Alpine Weiss' desk for now! :-)
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      09-07-2023, 03:59 AM   #52
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Major screw up today

Not sure what compelled me all of a sudden, but after lunch today went to pull out the Nav screen to put in the rubber side molding to cover the small gap. Figured an hour tops to get it all completed.


The Nav unit was fighting me when I was taking it out this time and of course, I should have been ultra careful - I heard a couple of snaps and some pieces fall behind the dash.

Four of the mounting screws that secure the screen broke off. After 10 mins of cursing, I calm down and figure I'll just buy a new plastic cover. Then I realized, the part# does not exist in Real OEM since BMW only replaces the entire NAV unit. Searched online with the barcode stickers but to no avail - I can't find this thing anywhere.

Currently thinking how best to do a repair to fix the broken screw posts. I'm leaning epoxying a new nut/bolt type solution in place of where the screws were.


Anyone know where or if I can source this part?

Also, open to good repair ideas as that might be my only recourse.
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      09-09-2023, 08:23 AM   #53
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Nav back in.

Repaired the housing cover by epoxying new bolts into what was left of the old screw housings with JB Weld. Did two passes - one to set and hold them in place first and a second layer for added strength.

The side molding on the screen was a bit of a challenge to cut to an exact size and apply straight - the first attempt turned out ok but it wasn't far enough into the monitor to hide the edges and I didn't want to install and risk having to pull the unit out of the car again if I wasn't happy. Did it a second time which turned out good.

The work took about two days just for a 1mm sized rubber border - but glad I did it as the prior gap was one of those things that you can't 'un-see' in the car.
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      09-09-2023, 08:45 AM   #54
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Wiring harness found in trunk - any ideas?

In between working on the Nav, I wanted to check out where the Audio Amp was (know where it is now - or should I say isn't since I think I have the Base stereo unfortunately)..


At any rate, I pulled up the trunk floor and saw this wiring harness covered in foam wrap. Looked factory and not aftermarket as the tape used on the cover was the cloth type which is used on interior harnesses.


Not sure what it is and what it's doing there. One of the cables feels like Coax and it actually has 'Koaxial' on the sheath. It's the one with the purple/white clip. The purple tab has 'RT' stamped on it.

I'm hoping it's some kind of Audio sound related cable - like a Fiber MOST connection or something I can plug a Harman/Kardon amp into...
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      09-10-2023, 05:00 AM   #55
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Installed the new rear trunk emblem. Had double stick tape attached so to a bit of prying to get it off.

Didn't realize the OEM part comes with double stick tape in addition to the two grommets. Interesting - all other BMW's I've owned had just the rubber grommets to hold it in. The new grommets didn't really fit snug and just fell into the openings so I guess factory added tape to secure?

At any rate, back in business and now I can drive it....
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      09-10-2023, 06:08 AM   #56
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the MULF/MULF2 sits in that position in the trunk/boot. controls the usb/aux and bt.

thats what i have in my car. though i have prof radio and not the nav.
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      09-10-2023, 10:03 AM   #57
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Thanks. Did some searching around and yes it's likely related to MULF2/Combox etc. I wonder if factory just puts in the harness and hardware added later depending on options ordered.

Found a post here on upgrading to Combox which I think confirms the wires are for the TCU. Btw, the post is probably the most detailed DIY post in the history of posts..


I'm more interested to see if I can utilize that MOST connection to wire up an OEM Top Hifi Amp. Similar to what was successfully done here.
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      09-12-2023, 07:49 AM   #58
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M sills

Installed the new ///M Door Sills.

Cleaned, Compounded and applied Sealant prior to mounting. Took most of the afternoon as I did the door jambs and applied protectant to the weather stripping.
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      09-12-2023, 10:57 AM   #59
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I want thosw too but i dont want to pay what they cost 😀👎
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      09-12-2023, 04:38 PM   #60
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Romeo - interesting comment. When I did this in 2019, the 'M' version was on $6 more than the regular (ECS). Of course, I have not looked at them since.
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      09-12-2023, 05:49 PM   #61
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Ok. I have to check it out the prices see how its now. Thanks 😊
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      09-12-2023, 10:03 PM   #62
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Schemiedmann seems to have the best prices for these right now. ECS and FCP are both over $100 per side - which is a bit much.

Post some pics if you do get them..
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      09-14-2023, 09:51 AM   #63
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Always

After the Nav debacle and getting that fixed, wanted to drive around a bit to make sure it was all secured. Perfect weather, the better half was away so I had the day - got dressed up and ready to go, feeling excited.

Soon as I pull out of my driveway, I hear the 'gong' go off. WTH - I thought..

Warnings for ABS, Flat Tire Monitor, DSC all at the same time. Figured it might be a sensor or something. Shut down the car restarted and they all showed up immediately.

I just got it back from the dealer a couple weeks ago for legal inspection - and really didn't want to waste time and if they can fix it within the day, I can still enjoy a bit of a drive. They tell me it's the 'Pulse Generator' (which I later found out was the wheel speed sensor).

They don't have it in stock on the day - I figured let them schedule to change the faulty one and I can buy/replace the other 3 as they are probably on their way out. So my plans for the day were nixed.



Today, I'm on my way to get the sensor replaced - and my speedometer stops working. Dealer replaces the front left which was faulty then comes back and tells me both right rear sensors are also not functioning (although they were 36 hours ago). I tell them just do the front left, I'll change the rear ones myself.


Then, on my way home - not feeling in any mood to enjoy any kind of driving with the dash all lit up and on the off-chance that I need ABS (murphys law states the only time you happen to drive with failed ABS is the one time you'll need it) - I get this new gong that tells me I'm out of fuel for a brief moment. What the hell is going on? I was about a little under half a tank when this occurs and as I'm driving I can see the needle wander between half and the 1/4 tank mark - I think when I swerve left to right I noticed it swaying the most.

I just parked it back home and left if there for a few hours. Just ran the error codes which do reveal failures with the rear speed sensors. I don't see anything related to the fuel system. Going to go fill up later tonight and see if the needle reads full.



Last time I had these kinds of problems was with that E39 540 M-Sport that just kicked me down every single time it could. What I mean by 'problems' is not necessarily the failures themselves but the uncanny timing of them immediately after you've done some other work on the car or when you have a special day planned. The E39 did that to me for about 3 years until I got rid of it. Pi$$ed me off even more was that I traded the beloved E39 530 bought brand new and never caused me any grief for that 540. anyway /rant.



Didn't want this post to be this long but had to share context. At any rate question:

ATE makes these sensors but I see some from Bremi and others. I normally try to stick with OEM but any reason to stay away from the other makes? Reason I ask is that I can get Bremi locally pretty quickly but prefer to have ATE in which case is a shipment from FCP which will be next week.


Thanks
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      09-14-2023, 10:46 AM   #64
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Only a guess but can't see how brand matters much. As long as it fits and measures correctly. These things are very simple in function.

You probably know but it's a good time to check the battery as well, including all the cables and grounds. Even if it's a newish battery it could have a problem. For some reason it seems like our cars electrical systems go bonkers when the battery voltage gets low. In your case things seem potentially related, and related to those sensors, and so that may likely be the real issue. But It's worth considering the battery, historically on the board a lot of sudden issues are resolved that way.

With so many at once it kind of makes you wonder if something happened to them, but I can't think of what. I don't see the ECU frying them but maybe there's something with an ECU itself. Sensors are OK but ECU reads faulty? Again not sure but maybe a consideration.
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      09-14-2023, 11:57 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
Only a guess but can't see how brand matters much. As long as it fits and measures correctly. These things are very simple in function.

You probably know but it's a good time to check the battery as well, including all the cables and grounds. Even if it's a newish battery it could have a problem. For some reason it seems like our cars electrical systems go bonkers when the battery voltage gets low. In your case things seem potentially related, and related to those sensors, and so that may likely be the real issue. But It's worth considering the battery, historically on the board a lot of sudden issues are resolved that way.

With so many at once it kind of makes you wonder if something happened to them, but I can't think of what. I don't see the ECU frying them but maybe there's something with an ECU itself. Sensors are OK but ECU reads faulty? Again not sure but maybe a consideration.
Tend to agree.
OE parts are just fine... they meet the same spec as BMW branded. Often the OE parts are exactly the same as the BMW branded part, minus the branding... since many OEs will supply the same part to the manufacturer.
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      09-14-2023, 12:14 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracer bullet View Post
Only a guess but can't see how brand matters much. As long as it fits and measures correctly. These things are very simple in function.

You probably know but it's a good time to check the battery as well, including all the cables and grounds. Even if it's a newish battery it could have a problem. For some reason it seems like our cars electrical systems go bonkers when the battery voltage gets low. In your case things seem potentially related, and related to those sensors, and so that may likely be the real issue. But It's worth considering the battery, historically on the board a lot of sudden issues are resolved that way.

With so many at once it kind of makes you wonder if something happened to them, but I can't think of what. I don't see the ECU frying them but maybe there's something with an ECU itself. Sensors are OK but ECU reads faulty? Again not sure but maybe a consideration.

Tracer Bullet, thanks for the inputs.

In the back of my mind I've been thinking battery actually - am aware a battery can cause strange things. I bought a 80Ah Varta battery soon after I got the car but hadn't driven it much due to other personal priorities over the past 6mo.


Tonight, I filled up the tank and the needle did go to max. Did quite a bit of driving on the local roads and expressway to use up some gas to see if the needle goes down a bit - indeed it did.

However, as I was exiting the expressway, there is a long sweeping left turn and as I was turning, I saw the fuel gauge swing almost over to the 3/4th mark. As I straightened out, the needle settled back towards the full mark.


I can understand fuel sloshing around but not to that degree. Is that a thing with the 1? I don't think I ever really noticed it. I think the Z3 folks had issues with the shape of the tank giving false readings when fuel was low..



Here is the error code I have from the scan tonight using BimmerLink:

#############################################
Error memory

Date: 2023/09/14 22 42
VIN: WBAUC92060VM06830

01 Safety and information module
1 error

93FB: SBR function - speed signal missing


12 Motor electronics
3 errors

32D6: 0x32D6 Vehicle speed, rear / right wheel speed sensor, electrical: malfunction
32D3: 0x32D3 Vehicle speed, rear / left wheel speed sensor, electrical: malfunction
32C9: 0x32C9 poor road detection: No wheel speed signal received


29 Dynamic stability control MK60 E5
2 errors

5DC3: 5DC3 - Speed controller rear right Start detection v_comparison.
5DB3: 5DB3 - Rear left speed switch start detection v_comparison.


40 Car access system
1 error

A0B5: Signalerkennung_Geschwindigkeit_Fehler


29 ABSKWP
2 errors

5DC3: 5DC3 - Speed controller rear right Start detection v_comparison.
5DB3: 5DB3 - Rear left speed switch start detection v_comparison.

#############################################
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