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      10-20-2010, 12:46 PM   #45
gnat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3onDubs View Post
don't forget the cost for replacing the windows once they blow out
Mythbusters already showed that your seals will give out before the glass breaks, though this AMP might be more powerful than driving the woofer off the drive shaft...
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      10-20-2010, 02:53 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singh21 View Post
Amp is only 2500rms and will only be pushin 2000w with the sub. Chill the fuck out VP. Pretty patronising for someone advertising their company on here. Is this how you company acts with people enquiring? And the title of this tread is not ENGLISH LESSON. son of a...

It was kaigoss giving you grief about your spelling, and me saying that it didn't matter... so I think your attacking me for defending your spelling as irrelevant is indicative of... something, but what, I don't know. Maybe you didn't read it carefully?

To answer your question, when someone asks us if they can put a 5kW of power in a 1-series, we do out best to talk him out of the mistake, and if we can't, we walk him. We don't want to be a part of a project like that, we think it's a bad idea, and we think that most shops who would be part of that aren't actually doing what it takes.

But I did talk to a friend at Orion (on your behalf) and ask about running a D5000 off of a stock 1-series alternator. His response to me was "OMG no f#$%ing way".
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      10-20-2010, 03:00 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singh21 View Post
yeah..iv got some good people looking at the car and the system and they have a lot af experience. they have installed systems into 1 series hatchbacks and they have said it will be slightly different..

BUT i shall see what it is like and at least someone will have the experience of putting a systam like this into a 1er coupe.
what's your goal?

sound quality, loudness, combination? do you just want bass or do you want crisp highs as well? you want it to sound good inside the car? outside the car?
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      10-20-2010, 03:31 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3onDubs View Post
what's your goal?

sound quality, loudness, combination? do you just want bass or do you want crisp highs as well? you want it to sound good inside the car? outside the car?
i want the bass to be loud but i dont want TOTAL drowned out speakers... :s

i want it to be loud inside, dont care about outside, nut thats all about what the sub is tuned to isnt it?

i will upgrade the component speakers if they need it...
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      10-20-2010, 03:44 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singh21 View Post
i want the bass to be loud but i dont want TOTAL drowned out speakers... :s

i want it to be loud inside, dont care about outside, nut thats all about what the sub is tuned to isnt it?

i will upgrade the component speakers if they need it...
I'm sure you've sat in plenty of cars with systems...nothing beats a nice set of colorful components up front that can accurately reproduce across the mid/high frequencies (most entry level comps would blow our stock speakers away).

Outside the car will sound like a tin can rattling with all that bass and no sound deadening. You may want to look into adding some deadening throughout the car, but that's always something you can do after the fact if you notice some rattle.
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      10-20-2010, 04:19 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3onDubs View Post
You may want to look into adding some deadening throughout the car, but that's always something you can do after the fact if you notice some rattle.
Sound deadening and fixing vibration rattles are two separate issues, though one can sometimes address the other. Deadening is about adding more mass to unsupported metal (e.g. body panels, floor/roof) to keep it from flexing and distorting the sound.

Rattles, on the other hand, tend to be bits of trim (e.g. door trim, cables, etc..) that vibrate due to the sound and motion of the car and is fixed by cushioning the area of the rattle. Usually you can fix rattles with some tape, but sometimes you need to go for foam based mats for larger areas when you can't otherwise narrow the location down. I've even seen people go after it with spray foam.

The act of adding sound deadening may have the side effect of fixing rattles as you stick things down (bad job) or it gets put between the points that rattle.

By the time I was done, I laid close to 250 sq/ft of deadening material in my Escape (each of my front doors has 20 sq/ft!). The difference it made was incredible and I love it, but I'm never doing it again. That was a royal pain in the ass and the cost of the labor to do it to the extent I did (everything but the dash was pulled and all the metal was covered) would have required a loan. My back and fingers still hurt thinking about it.

I can't imagine doing a proper (to me that is all panels, not just doors and trunk) job in a 1 since it is fairly confined with lots of nooks. Maybe if you pulled everything out (and I mean everything) and then used one of the spray products....

All that said, I've been happy with the factory deadening/quietness of my wife's e90 and the few times I've been in a 1 it sounds comparable. So my hope is that deadening wouldn't be a need for realistic upgrades.
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      10-20-2010, 04:33 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnat View Post
Sound deadening and fixing vibration rattles are two separate issues, though one can sometimes address the other. Deadening is about adding more mass to unsupported metal (e.g. body panels, floor/roof) to keep it from flexing and distorting the sound.

Rattles, on the other hand, tend to be bits of trim (e.g. door trim, cables, etc..) that vibrate due to the sound and motion of the car and is fixed by cushioning the area of the rattle. Usually you can fix rattles with some tape, but sometimes you need to go for foam based mats for larger areas when you can't otherwise narrow the location down. I've even seen people go after it with spray foam.

The act of adding sound deadening may have the side effect of fixing rattles as you stick things down (bad job) or it gets put between the points that rattle.

By the time I was done, I laid close to 250 sq/ft of deadening material in my Escape (each of my front doors has 20 sq/ft!). The difference it made was incredible and I love it, but I'm never doing it again. That was a royal pain in the ass and the cost of the labor to do it to the extent I did (everything but the dash was pulled and all the metal was covered) would have required a loan. My back and fingers still hurt thinking about it.

I can't imagine doing a proper (to me that is all panels, not just doors and trunk) job in a 1 since it is fairly confined with lots of nooks. Maybe if you pulled everything out (and I mean everything) and then used one of the spray products....

All that said, I've been happy with the factory deadening/quietness of my wife's e90 and the few times I've been in a 1 it sounds comparable. So my hope is that deadening wouldn't be a need for realistic upgrades.
I did that in my E46....behind the speakers in the door panels, trunk lid, trunk sides, spare tire well, rear deck, etc. Adds a lot of weight for sure (not to mention hands getting cut up). It brings out better midbass from the door mounted speakers and definitely reduces road noise.
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      10-20-2010, 05:13 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3onDubs View Post
I did that in my E46....behind the speakers in the door panels, trunk lid, trunk sides, spare tire well, rear deck, etc. Adds a lot of weight for sure (not to mention hands getting cut up). It brings out better midbass from the door mounted speakers and definitely reduces road noise.
Absolutely on all points. I refer to it as my 200lb passenger
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      10-21-2010, 12:19 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnat View Post
Mythbusters already showed that your seals will give out before the glass breaks, though this AMP might be more powerful than driving the woofer off the drive shaft...
I have witnessed several winsheilds shatter in soundoff competitions with seals in place.
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      10-21-2010, 12:52 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by texasmojo View Post
I have witnessed several winsheilds shatter in soundoff competitions with seals in place.
Sorry, was meant as tongue-in-cheek. I don't think much of Mythbusters' "scientific" methods.
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      11-03-2010, 06:13 AM   #55
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Just an update...got the system in and it sound perfect.

Used 2 extra batteries and the stock alternator is 180amps as found out which is very suitable...

The bass is very loud but the stock speakers hold out very well indeed. Very clear and good balance even with the volume turned right up as well as the gains...

all fitted in with no screws or anything cut away and very good boot install. only tricky parts where the few headunit features lost but overall very pleased.
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      11-03-2010, 06:30 AM   #56
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Where are the pics?
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      11-03-2010, 06:40 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by bmw135fan View Post
Where are the pics?
Ill post them up tonight. let you take a look
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      11-03-2010, 12:08 PM   #58
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Just a question,
you do realize all the irreversible damage you can do to your hearing in a matter of second with that kind of system ?
At loud level, it is not recommended to listen more than few seconds, just saying...
Do yourself a favor, get a SPL soundmeter.
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      11-03-2010, 06:00 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tritonx View Post
Just a question,
you do realize all the irreversible damage you can do to your hearing in a matter of second with that kind of system ?
At loud level, it is not recommended to listen more than few seconds, just saying...
Do yourself a favor, get a SPL soundmeter.
yes. A few seconds is a bit of an exaggeration but ok.
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      11-03-2010, 06:32 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singh21 View Post
yes. A few seconds is a bit of an exaggeration but ok.
If you have a SPL meter, what's your peak level?

Can you even turn it more than 50%

At least you must have greats dynamics.

If we are talking about the same wattage, some musician do rock shows with less power in small theater.

Have fun with it.
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      11-03-2010, 07:27 PM   #61
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This thread badly needs some pics of the said powerful system!

Also, please quit lecturing mr Singh on why he should not have a loud system. It's his car and money!
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      11-04-2010, 05:19 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tritonx View Post
If you have a SPL meter, what's your peak level?

Can you even turn it more than 50%

At least you must have greats dynamics.

If we are talking about the same wattage, some musician do rock shows with less power in small theater.

Have fun with it.
Havent got a Meter. At the moment its not running on full peak because the sub is brand new but the sound is very very loud. the entire car vibrates.

Sure is a lot of power..

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw135fan View Post
This thread badly needs some pics of the said powerful system!

Also, please quit lecturing mr Singh on why he should not have a loud system. It's his car and money!
I will post pics on by the end of the day.
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      11-05-2010, 12:46 PM   #63
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heres some pics of the boot install. Amp under box and batteries behind seat (2 sp1000's)

Custom box built to et sound pass through the coupe made by RD Design's UK.
Bass is unbelievably loud!

just forgot to take a pic of the HU.
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      11-05-2010, 01:14 PM   #64
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Looks ugly brah, but I bet it hits hard...reminds me of my old install in my E46 (no trunk space, naked box). That shit pounded: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...6&postcount=35


I'm surprised you say the stock speakers are able to keep up...I would expect them to be significantly underpowered.
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      11-05-2010, 06:45 PM   #65
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Orion hcca 12 sub? Where is the port?
Carpet the box? Bit ugly ATM
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      11-05-2010, 07:09 PM   #66
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Yeah im going to carpet it. Does look like old wood in the boot.

Orion hcca 12" and orion D5000 underneath.

Box is a very special unique design. Really needs to be heard to be appreciated. Sound like 2x12" subs.

The stock speakers where shocking in that they sound very clear and keep up with the sub even at extreme volumes.
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