Clay/Wax/Detail Questions

YROF1 · 11-22-2010, 03:57 PM

I like the results of using Zaino looks great...I have never clayed my car myself and had it done by a detailer it did not come out as well as I would have hoped. I got my car used its a black 08' 128i in florida and has the "spiderweb" scratches or whatever for lack of a better term. I spend a lot of time washing my car, so still seeing these things is very depressing. I was reading that you should use a spray detailer or somthing to lube the car while applying wax what Zaino product should I use for this (Z-6 ultra clean gloss enhancer spray)? Or does it not really matter and I should just get a generic product at target for cheaper. I was trying to understand the steps I should take it sounded to me that I should wash with the Zaino Z-7 then what should be my next step Z-18 clay bar, Z-5, Z8? or Z-5 then Z-18 clay bar, then Z-8? Then I was planning on waxing as well. Also when it comes to applying the products which should I do by hand and which should I do by hand. I am open to any suggestions thanks.

Also for anyone in FL they understand the pain we deal with 2-3 times a year with the "lovebugs" what is a good way to get those off without taking off paint. The shadow line trim has water spots on it I was reading that you can use just some detailer or spray wax I tried ICE and it did not do too great of a job I think it is from the reclaimed water that people use to water their grass. Any thoughts on this?

On the inside of my car I have the leatherette and I have not really found to much to care for this like the dealership does, and I tried asking them but they did not really help me. On the dash and everywhere else inside the car I was wondering what everyone uses.

I am open to suggestions of other products or steps to make my car look new agin. I want to do this during my winter break when it is cooler outside so i do not have to worry about the sun drying everything to quickly. Thanks.

Greg@DetailedImage · 11-23-2010, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YROF1

I like the results of using Zaino looks great...I have never clayed my car myself and had it done by a detailer it did not come out as well as I would have hoped. I got my car used its a black 08' 128i in florida and has the "spiderweb" scratches or whatever for lack of a better term. I spend a lot of time washing my car, so still seeing these things is very depressing. I was reading that you should use a spray detailer or somthing to lube the car while applying wax what Zaino product should I use for this (Z-6 ultra clean gloss enhancer spray)? Or does it not really matter and I should just get a generic product at target for cheaper. I was trying to understand the steps I should take it sounded to me that I should wash with the Zaino Z-7 then what should be my next step Z-18 clay bar, Z-5, Z8? or Z-5 then Z-18 clay bar, then Z-8? Then I was planning on waxing as well. Also when it comes to applying the products which should I do by hand and which should I do by hand. I am open to any suggestions thanks.

Also for anyone in FL they understand the pain we deal with 2-3 times a year with the "lovebugs" what is a good way to get those off without taking off paint. The shadow line trim has water spots on it I was reading that you can use just some detailer or spray wax I tried ICE and it did not do too great of a job I think it is from the reclaimed water that people use to water their grass. Any thoughts on this?

On the inside of my car I have the leatherette and I have not really found to much to care for this like the dealership does, and I tried asking them but they did not really help me. On the dash and everywhere else inside the car I was wondering what everyone uses.

I am open to suggestions of other products or steps to make my car look new agin. I want to do this during my winter break when it is cooler outside so i do not have to worry about the sun drying everything to quickly. Thanks.

Sorry to hear the spiderweb markings (aka swirls or micro-scratches) are becoming more noticeable. These marks can come from the improper use of a clay bar, however these lines typically are very short and straight as they would follow the same motion as the clay bar. Ball park figure 75% of the swirls in your paint come from the washing and drying process. Try to make sure you are using the best techniques with high quality products. I also recommend inspecting your wash mitts and towels for contaminants as well. I suggest checking our detailing guidefor tips to make sure you are using the best process possible. If you want to make sure you are using quality products check out a kit like this - DI Packages Washing and Drying Starter Package. You can also just select any individual items if that is all you need.

As for applying a layer of sealant or really any product you don't need to use a quick detailer or lube. The only time you must use one is if you are using a clay bar. Assuming you have already washed and used the clay bar the paint should be very clean and ready to go. You can then apply any product without a lube of any kind. If you really want to try integrating a lube with your work I'd suggest the Chemical Guys Luber.

If you want to permanently remove swirls, not just hide them, you'll need to pick up some true polishes. The Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 and Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 would provide the results you are looking for. They help restore an optically clear clear coat so you can get that deep and glossy appearance back. Additionally the paint is very smooth and the sealant or wax can adhere to the surface better. Polishes are best applied with a buffer because they need more pressure and passes to be worked in for ideal results. I highly recommend you consider a very safe and easy to use buffer like the Porter Cable 7424 XP. It greatly improves your results while saving you time and energy. Here are two great deals with buffer, pads, polishes, etc. DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads
DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Basic Kit
I'd suggest the Chemical Guys Bug Bugger & Tar Remover to remove the bugs before washing. If they are really stubborn I then move on to the Stoner Tarminator. This is a really strong cleaner that works extremely well on tar, bugs, etc. If you want to protect against them you should just apply a sealant or wax. You may want to do some extra coats on the front bumper, etc.

If you really want to restore your seats or the Leatherette, leather, vinyl, etc. I highly recommend theLeatherique Prestine Clean and the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil. This amazing combo can make the seats look and feel like new again, without leaving any greasy mess behind. To protect the leatherette, vinyl, leather, plastic, rubber, etc. I really like the 303 Aerospace Protectantand the Optimum (OPT) Protectant Plus. Both help preserve those finishes from harmful UV rays and enrich their appearance.

If you have any other questions please let me know I'd be happy to help!

Greg @ DI

IDBMW · 11-24-2010, 01:24 PM

I would take a look at how and what you are using to wash and dry the car with. You are picking up dirt somewhere and spreading it around your paint. I had a black car several years ago and never any swirl marks. One big thing to remember is if you drop a wash cloth or towel do not use it on the car. I frequently see High School car washes with towels lying on the pavement.

The kids pick them up and start drying a car. Never go through an automatic car wash. They will scratch your paint.

TOGWT · 11-25-2010, 05:53 AM

Bug Residue and Carcasses

Two flights of love bugs [: Plecia nearctica Hardy] occur each year; spring flight occurs during late April and May, a second flight occurs during late August and September; flights extend over periods of 4 to 5 weeks.

[: Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc]

Dried bug remains are both abrasive and acidic (pH 3.0-4.0) and can scratch paint or glass surfaces, many times the acids will "cloud" or "etch" surfaces as they contain highly acidic concentrates, and should be carefully removed as soon as possible They produce what acts like a super-adhesive on impact (especially when heated or when they have remained on the vehicle surface for any amount of time) you almost need a crowbar to separate these substances from the paint, windshield, headlights or front end of your car.

Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90.oF+ creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there’ s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.

The carcass is very acidic, and if left for any length of time will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) so they should be removed ASAP

To remove - pre-soak heavy bug contamination with 1z einszett Anti-Insekt + Pre-Cleaner easily removes bug carcasses but doesn't remove wax / sealant paint protection soak a micro fibre towel and let it sit for 4-5 minutes before removing. Then use a (pre-soaked then wring damp) Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad the open-cell construction 'grabs' foreign matter on your cars paint surface and safely removes it. Then use an Optimum No Rinse (ONR) solution, 2oz per gallon / distilled water. It’s completely harmless to the paint or glass surfaces, a very efficient and safe way of removing harmful baked on bug debris due to its non-abrasive nature.

Removing Residue/ Paint Stains Use an Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or a d-limonene -based (citrus cleaner) (P21S® Total Auto Wash by placing a small amount on to a product soaked micro fibre towel, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. Apply to effected area in the shade as the alcohol will evaporate very quickly in direct sunlight.

Take your time and blot with the alcohol until it softens and melts the residue to the point where you can gently wipe it off the paint. The alcohol content, acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water and use detailers clay to encapsulate any residue, re-spray the area let it dwell time for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry. Re-apply paint protection

Protection- a polymer sealant bonds with a paint surface it’s applied too, so when it’s attacked by environmental elements (acid rain, bird excrement, etc) it provides a direct conduit to the clear coat paint surface, causing surface etching.

An organic wax will act as a sacrificial protection, Carnauba wax molecules are closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect the surface and the wax adheres to the paint surface. When attacked by environmental elements they have to compromise the wax surface before they can reach the clear coat paint surface and cause surface etching.

Some organic (natural) waxes (Carnauba) are more resistant to environmental hazards then non-organic (synthetics) but the best way to avoid clear coat etching is too remove the environmental acid as soon as it’s noticed; but given enough time acid will compromise the clear coat whatever its protection.

11-22-2010, 03:57 PM	#1
YROF1 Private 8 Rep 56 Posts Drives: Black 128i Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Tampa/FAU, FL iTrader: (1)	Clay/Wax/Detail Questions I like the results of using Zaino looks great...I have never clayed my car myself and had it done by a detailer it did not come out as well as I would have hoped. I got my car used its a black 08' 128i in florida and has the "spiderweb" scratches or whatever for lack of a better term. I spend a lot of time washing my car, so still seeing these things is very depressing. I was reading that you should use a spray detailer or somthing to lube the car while applying wax what Zaino product should I use for this (Z-6 ultra clean gloss enhancer spray)? Or does it not really matter and I should just get a generic product at target for cheaper. I was trying to understand the steps I should take it sounded to me that I should wash with the Zaino Z-7 then what should be my next step Z-18 clay bar, Z-5, Z8? or Z-5 then Z-18 clay bar, then Z-8? Then I was planning on waxing as well. Also when it comes to applying the products which should I do by hand and which should I do by hand. I am open to any suggestions thanks. Also for anyone in FL they understand the pain we deal with 2-3 times a year with the "lovebugs" what is a good way to get those off without taking off paint. The shadow line trim has water spots on it I was reading that you can use just some detailer or spray wax I tried ICE and it did not do too great of a job I think it is from the reclaimed water that people use to water their grass. Any thoughts on this? On the inside of my car I have the leatherette and I have not really found to much to care for this like the dealership does, and I tried asking them but they did not really help me. On the dash and everywhere else inside the car I was wondering what everyone uses. I am open to suggestions of other products or steps to make my car look new agin. I want to do this during my winter break when it is cooler outside so i do not have to worry about the sun drying everything to quickly. Thanks.
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11-24-2010, 01:24 PM	#3
IDBMW Captain 41 Rep 825 Posts Drives: 2019 X3 M40i Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Boise, ID iTrader: (0)	I would take a look at how and what you are using to wash and dry the car with. You are picking up dirt somewhere and spreading it around your paint. I had a black car several years ago and never any swirl marks. One big thing to remember is if you drop a wash cloth or towel do not use it on the car. I frequently see High School car washes with towels lying on the pavement. The kids pick them up and start drying a car. Never go through an automatic car wash. They will scratch your paint. __________________ 2019 X3 M40i - Black Sapphire Metallic - Mocha Lather - 21" 718M wheels - Every option except Sun Shade
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11-25-2010, 05:53 AM	#4
TOGWT Captain 11 Rep 770 Posts Drives: 630i Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL / London, UK iTrader: (0)	Bug Residue and Carcasses Two flights of love bugs [: Plecia nearctica Hardy] occur each year; spring flight occurs during late April and May, a second flight occurs during late August and September; flights extend over periods of 4 to 5 weeks. [: Gypsy moth, June bug, Honeybees, etc] Dried bug remains are both abrasive and acidic (pH 3.0-4.0) and can scratch paint or glass surfaces, many times the acids will "cloud" or "etch" surfaces as they contain highly acidic concentrates, and should be carefully removed as soon as possible They produce what acts like a super-adhesive on impact (especially when heated or when they have remained on the vehicle surface for any amount of time) you almost need a crowbar to separate these substances from the paint, windshield, headlights or front end of your car. Heat (vehicle paint temperature of 90.oF+ creates a very aggressive reactivity of the acids that are present, which causes surface etching, so they should be removed without delay, at lower temperatures (40oF or less) there’ s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching. The carcass is very acidic, and if left for any length of time will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces) so they should be removed ASAP To remove - pre-soak heavy bug contamination with 1z einszett Anti-Insekt + Pre-Cleaner easily removes bug carcasses but doesn't remove wax / sealant paint protection soak a micro fibre towel and let it sit for 4-5 minutes before removing. Then use a (pre-soaked then wring damp) Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Pad the open-cell construction 'grabs' foreign matter on your cars paint surface and safely removes it. Then use an Optimum No Rinse (ONR) solution, 2oz per gallon / distilled water. It’s completely harmless to the paint or glass surfaces, a very efficient and safe way of removing harmful baked on bug debris due to its non-abrasive nature. Removing Residue/ Paint Stains Use an Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or a d-limonene -based (citrus cleaner) (P21S® Total Auto Wash by placing a small amount on to a product soaked micro fibre towel, this will help it stay in place during the necessary dwell time. Apply to effected area in the shade as the alcohol will evaporate very quickly in direct sunlight. Take your time and blot with the alcohol until it softens and melts the residue to the point where you can gently wipe it off the paint. The alcohol content, acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water and use detailers clay to encapsulate any residue, re-spray the area let it dwell time for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry. Re-apply paint protection Protection- a polymer sealant bonds with a paint surface it’s applied too, so when it’s attacked by environmental elements (acid rain, bird excrement, etc) it provides a direct conduit to the clear coat paint surface, causing surface etching. An organic wax will act as a sacrificial protection, Carnauba wax molecules are closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect the surface and the wax adheres to the paint surface. When attacked by environmental elements they have to compromise the wax surface before they can reach the clear coat paint surface and cause surface etching. Some organic (natural) waxes (Carnauba) are more resistant to environmental hazards then non-organic (synthetics) but the best way to avoid clear coat etching is too remove the environmental acid as soon as it’s noticed; but given enough time acid will compromise the clear coat whatever its protection.
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