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01-07-2011, 05:09 PM | #1 |
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DIY: N55 oil Change
I decided to do the first oil change on my 2011 135i at 4k miles instead of the free 15k oil change. The oil was very black for only being a 4k miles. I couldn't imagine what it would look like at 15k.
I took many pics, but overall it is a very easy project it takes about an hour. I got the oil and filter at my local dealer for $63 N55 image: 1) Start car and go for a short drive to let it warm up close to operating temperature. Then let car cool down for a little bit before draining. 2) Put car on ramps or jack stands: 3) Locate engine drain plug and remove it and let oil drain into drain pan. I decided to remove the entire undercover because I didn't want any oil mess. However as you can see in the pics there is a access plate for the drain plug. 4) Reomve Oil Filter. Be sure to note green marks and be sure they line up when reinstalling. I used Fram oil filter pliers with a microfiber cloth to avoid scratching. 5) Install new o-rings, oil filter and crush washer. The imprints on the filter go inside the cap as shown: Crush washer for drain plug supplied with filter; 6)Install oil Filter assembly: 7)Install drain plug: be sure old crush washer is not stuck to oil pan: 8) Add oil. I used about 6.7 quarts. After adding oil drive the car for about 5 minutes and use the check oil function on the cars onboard computer to check oil level. Mine is at max. Hope this helps anyone who decides to perform their own oil change.
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2011 135i 6mt
Last edited by collegemt; 01-07-2011 at 10:26 PM.. |
01-07-2011, 05:49 PM | #2 |
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Cool but you dont have to remove the whole under pan
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Legal Disclaimer: Anything I or anyone else says about my vehicle on this website(1addicts.com or any affiliated or nonaffiliated sites), pertaining to modifications, is only to gain acceptance from my/our peers, and does not actually represent anything actually existing on my car, and thus, cannot be held against me in any issues, i.e. warranty claims, that may arise.
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01-07-2011, 06:30 PM | #3 |
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Good article. Two recommendations, however. First I think it's very worthwhile to get the cap wrench for the oil filter that Bavarian sells for about $15. You do not have to have it but it seems like a good investment to me. Secondly, I have a sideways drain plug in my SUV and I hated it. So I bought a quarter turn ball valve drain plug that has a pipe nipple on the outlet. A short length of clear hose from the home center allows me to drop the oil straight down into the drain pan. It would allow you to leave the pan on but have no mess. The one I put on my SUV has been used 4 or 5 times (I change it every 5K miles with QS synthetic) and works great.
Jim
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128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport
Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09 |
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01-07-2011, 10:23 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
I was going to get a cap wrench at the dealer but they didn't have any in stock. I think I will order one though. It would be nice to not have a sideways drain plug, but removing the undertray is about 12-16 screws, and only took about 5 minutes.
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2011 135i 6mt
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01-08-2011, 06:35 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
Buy a cap wrench - its the best way to R&R that oil filter. I never remove that belly pan tray. I just open the access door. But on my last oil change... I took an old juice box (tetra pack) cut it open and used that to shove up into the belly pan area - to deflect any oil that comes pouring out. It worked like a charm. The tetra pack I used was a square 1L package. Worked like a charm. Btw... nice DIY and photos! Dackel |
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01-08-2011, 11:32 AM | #6 |
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This is a link to the oil drain valve I put on my Suzuki (not the identical one, I went to the BMW version for you guys):
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Pr...uctCode=F109NA With a foot or less of clear tubing from the home center secured by a hose clamp, you can have your oil coming straight down into the pan. And you open the valve with a finger on the lever (1/4 rotation to full open). It's a little scary how easy it is to open the valve but the lever sits in a detent position and has to be lifted away from the body of the valve to be opened. There is a caution about bimmers, sometimes the drain plug is inset into the pan and you can't spin a valve like this on. It looks like it would work on the n55 but it might not. You can also get an adapter to space the valve further from the oil pan - sometimes that will let it work. Jim
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128i Convertible, MT, Alpine White, Black Top, Taupe Leatherette, Walnut, Sport
Ordered 5/22/09, Completed 6/4/09, At Port 6/9/09, On the Georgia Highway 6/13/09, Ship Arrived Charleston 6/24/09 at 10pm, PCD 7/21/09 |
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01-08-2011, 12:06 PM | #7 |
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I prefer this oil drain plug. I just installed it two weeks ago. I might just have to do my next oil change "early" to see what the magnet looks like.
the magnet is quite strong. Dackel |
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