BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      04-19-2012, 08:28 AM   #23
Bimmer-Bob
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I know, the car wasn't on a lift or anything so I just had to reach in behind the strut and point the camera back towards myself, which explains the piss poor framing, focus, and wretched backlighting.
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      04-19-2012, 11:05 AM   #24
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Ohlins R&T

Looks to be in the slot and fully seated.

A shorter spring can be used to lower the car further.
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      04-19-2012, 12:44 PM   #25
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Thanks for the confirmation. I'll definitely be picking up a set of Swift springs from you in a couple of months - just have to replenish the mod budget after buying this kit, lol.
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      04-19-2012, 04:20 PM   #26
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With the kit-supplied front springs, I was able to get my car lower. I was told I needed a 5mm spacer to go any lower as the wheel/tire was fouling on the springs or adjusters, but I THINK I can still go a bit lower even still.

The rear I went with higher rates, and I needed to go from 10" down to 8" to get the car to sit lower, with adjustment available both up and down.

My shocks are set at 10 clicks from full-stiff. My ride is stiff, and I'm going to play with the settings and go softer from here, but I LOVE my Ohlins shocks!
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      04-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #27
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Guys, any update? I am getting ready to pull the trigger with Harold, and need to know what you think. Sounds like it's necessary to go with the Swifts to get the car down lower. I am on factory sport suspension (E90), and I get the impression that I'm looking at factory ride height on Ohlins, when I probably would like to go perhaps 1/2 - 3/4" lower.
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      04-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #28
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I am sitting a little lower than stock, but not as much as I'd like. You're car is heavier than mine, so you might get more of a drop than me. From what I've heard talking to other people, it seems like most of them are getting lower than me even on the kit springs. But I think if you have the money you may as well just go ahead with the Swift upgrade. I didn't really want to spend the extra money right away on top of the kit, but the downside is that when I am ready to buy the springs, I need to pay for the labor all over again.
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      04-25-2012, 06:06 PM   #29
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Bob, thank you for the 'swift' reply (get it? LOL).

It sounds like you and I are kindred spirits - I'm not looking to slam my car, but I think I would like to go 1/2 - 1 inch lower, and it doesn't seem the Ohlins springs are going to get me there.

I plan to discuss it with Harold in the next couple of days, and make a decision. I wonder if the shorter springs will require the Ohlins to be revalved...another question for Harold. Your point about incurring the additional labor cost is very good, definitely something to avoid. I guess I might also be looking at end links for the front sway, so there's another added cost. Better to do it right once than to keep coming back to it.

Thanks again for your feedback, it's extremely valuable!
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      04-27-2012, 09:51 AM   #30
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I really should take a picture of my car on the stock springs. you would probably be surprised at how low it is.
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      04-27-2012, 07:45 PM   #31
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The front kit springs should allow you to go as low as you want. The rears I went with higher rates, so I went with 8" springs instead of the kit supplied (much softer as well) 10" springs.

I got my kit from PSI, and used the Ohlins kit fronts, and Eibach rear springs.

If you choose to run higher rate rear springs, I'd say you're good to go getting 8" rears, I can't comment on the kit-supplied rear springs, they seemed very soft compared to what others were using so I upped the rates to basically match the rates that I saw others using.

Once you figure out the springs, whatever you choose, I can definitely say that the shocks are amazing. I wanted something better than the Koni variants, but less than the JRZ/Moton options, and the Ohlins R&T fit the bill perfectly.
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      04-29-2012, 02:16 PM   #32
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Thanks to all for the feedback; I'm supposed to speak with Harold tomorrow, so I should exit that conversation with a decision on which way to go.
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      05-09-2012, 01:50 PM   #33
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I finally adjusted the settings on the rear. Originally, front and rear were set at 10 clicks (from full stiff). I adjusted the rears to 15 clicks, and the rear is now a bit softer and more comfortable for street use.

I was told not to go more than 25 clicks from full stiff as it possible to damage the internals if you loosen the adjusters too much.

These shocks offer a wide range of ride from soft to stiff.
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