My new 135i

[demas]

Yesterday got the ER Chargepipe re-aligned so it sits firmly in the throttle body. Initial install was off a bit.



Later, went to install the BMS Clutch Stop with 2 washers. Not only was it a pain to get in, but in the process bent the stem a bit and the soft foam was a little damaged when pushing in. This led me to another idea.

Got these rubber stops at a local shop - figuring I could fine tune the width of the stop without having to painfully install the plastic BMS Clutch stop multiple times.

While the largest one - at 15cm - felt the best, it didn't allow the car to start. The middle one did but the bolt is only an M4 and not sure it will withstand abuse over time.

The large rubber mount bolt is an M6 which I prefer so I'll need to slice the rubber down a bit. I like the way the clutch pedal hits the stop - very reassuring thud - feels solid when pushed to the end. The middle sized one also felt really good just that it being an M4 I'd rather go with a larger bolt.

It's also a real pain to work at that angle.

[demas]

The clutch stop is holding up so far. Easier to get to the bite point. Getting the bolt in at that angle, stretching upside down and tightening the bolt was a real pain - hope I can get it out if I decide to.


Flushed out the power steering fluid - 3 liters worth. Didn't think I'd ever see green liquid, it took 2 liters just to remove all the black.

I have to say the feel is smoother yet retains just the right level of stiffness...

[demas]

Got the oil and MT fluid changed - better but haven't driven a lot. Dealer here diagnosed the slow crank and found errors with the HPFP.

Should have known when symptoms didn't improve after a new battery, plugs, coils and ground strip. At any rate, was planning to refresh all these anyway.

HPFP will be replaced this weekend. Then, most of the basics are done bar the water pump (assuming it's going out at some point soon but ok now). No leaks from OFHG.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by demas

Not letting the day go to waste, went ahead and opened up the shifter to see what was up. Old grease gummed up - no wonder it wasn't feeling great. Cleaned and got it lubed with silicone grease along with portions of the linkages of what I could access. Much smoother now. Also managed to pull off the stock knob without breaking anything thank goodness.

Nice job!

Any pointers on lifting the rubber boot covering the ball joint?
I pulled up the leather shifter boot, but felt a bit intimidated by the secondary underneath - feels really solidly in place... don't want to tear anything.

Thanks!

[demas]

Originally Posted by Fishee

Nice job!

Any pointers on lifting the rubber boot covering the ball joint?
I pulled up the leather shifter boot, but felt a bit intimidated by the secondary underneath - feels really solidly in place... don't want to tear anything.

Thanks!

That boot was a royal pain.

Use some WD-40 on the edges to lubricate. I found that pulling from the sides (east west) vs top bottom (north south) was much easier to get an opening.

Be patient and take breaks. A few times I was pulling so hard I thought I'd rip the rubber but it's amazingly resilient.

Another poster above mentioned doing it from the bottom of the car - but you'd need it to be on a lift.

Good luck and post results. Thanks

[Fishee]

Thank you!
Thought so... lol.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by demas

That boot was a royal pain.

Use some WD-40 on the edges to lubricate. I found that pulling from the sides (east west) vs top bottom (north south) was much easier to get an opening.

Be patient and take breaks. A few times I was pulling so hard I thought I'd rip the rubber but it's amazingly resilient.

Another poster above mentioned doing it from the bottom of the car - but you'd need it to be on a lift.

Good luck and post results. Thanks

Success!!
Wasn't too bad.

[demas]

Excellent. What did you use as a lubricant and also - any better?

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by demas

Excellent. What did you use as a lubricant and also - any better?

Yeah!
Between the fresh transmission fluid and greasing the ball joint, shifting is significantly smoother.

[demas]

It's been a while but have started back up on restoring the 135. Have been busy with work and the Real-estate business in Yokosuka and Okinawa. Haven't driven much but just finished the legal road inspection. Changed the OFHG during inspection and need to do brakes shortly.

Have been focusing on the interior parts which were long overdue including the NAV screen, AC vents and door sills.


Re the NAV screen - post research decided I didn't want to 'upgrade' to car play etc and wanted to keep the standard look. Changing the unit at BMW is a no go obviously given the thousands they'd just charge. Saw a guy on youtube purchase a Sanyo LCD screen for about $120 so thought I'd go that route. Then found another video with a guy using Novus plastic restorer which basically just removes the anti-glare film. Thought I'd give it a shot and if I ruined it, I can but a new screen.

Mine was in bad shape and progressively got worse since I purchased last year. The coating has been corroding/wrinkling and even hitting it with the Novus 3 heavy, the stuff would not come off. Resorted to using my nails manually to strip it all off - very tedious, but in the end was able to get it removed up to the edges and polish it up.

Problem was the edges still had the remanants of film you could make out looking at the top of the screen which bugged me. I decided to buy some very thin rubber strips, cut them and align them about 1mm on the top and bottom edges. I think it turned out ok.



While I had the center air vent out, figured I'd go ahead and attack that too. I was originally planning to buy new vents but realized the issue is that BMW used some sort of UV coating or something that will eventually yellow and brown with age. It's a universal problem with our cars.

Currently trying to get this crud off. What the heck is this stuff? A real pain to get off.
I saw a video of a guy in the UK using a blade to scrape it off - thought about it but I know I'll make a mistake and cut the fins (like on the very last one...). So dousing with Oxyclean right now and will go to town on it some more tomorrow. What did BMW or their supplier do on these vents? It only seems to affect the E82. Also, interestingly, the fins with the adjusters on them aren't impacted so clearly some kind of lapse in judgement.


And finally, took this side shot a few months ago at one of my rental properties. Just love the side profile of this car especially the short front overhangs.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by demas

Re the NAV screen - post research decided I didn't want to 'upgrade' to car play etc and wanted to keep the standard look.

I replaced mine with one from ebay, about $100 and not too bad to get to it as you already know. My only issue was having to do it a few times because it seemed like the connector was picky about being placed - the little flex circuit that is inserted into the flippy plastic connector. A portion of the screen would be dark if it wasn't perfect. To this day it looks great in the sun but seen in my garage or at night it has a bit of a purple cast to it, and of course I don't know if the original was that way. I think you did the right thing fixing up the old one, I doubt the anti-glare film is really needed at all to start with.

[demas]

You got a great deal for $100 albeit the screen challenges. Yeah, I think the bare screen should be ok as this isn't a daily driver for me - so long as my N63 still runs

I can get anit-glare film later I guess but I know I won't get out all those dust particles that are bound to stick no matter what you do when applying which will drive me more insane.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by demas

And finally, took this side shot a few months ago at one of my rental properties. Just love the side profile of this car especially the short front overhangs.

Really nice!
I agree, love the profile and short overhangs.
The e82 has perfect proportions.

Sounds like you have a pretty cool setup in Japan.
Amazing.

[demas]

Originally Posted by Fishee

Really nice!
I agree, love the profile and short overhangs.
The e82 has perfect proportions.

Sounds like you have a pretty cool setup in Japan.
Amazing.

Thanks. Love that shot. Nice paintwork/detail. Had black once on an E39 - sapphire black metallic - a lot of effort to keep it slick.

Was toying with the idea to go with BBS LM's in the future but man, the stock M-Sport wheels just work with the body and design. I think I'll keep them for a while.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by demas

Thanks. Love that shot. Nice paintwork/detail. Had black once on an E39 - sapphire black metallic - a lot of effort to keep it slick.

Was toying with the idea to go with BBS LM's in the future but man, the stock M-Sport wheels just work with the body and design. I think I'll keep them for a while.

All I have to say is, thank god it's not Jet Black.
BSM is easier to care for...

I have the same dilemma with wheels.
The factory wheels (despite needing a more aggressive offset / concavity, and lower weight) do really suit the car.
The only BBS fitment that I see that works is the CHR, and I'm not sure it's an aesthetic improvement over the factory wheel design.

[demas]

Ok, so got the vents cleaned up. Took way longer then expected. Initial plan was to remove the fins and scrub off as much of the gunk as possible then sand and paint if needed. Given the brittle 13 year-old plastic, I risked cracking the frame and fin guides if I disassembled so decided to just do it in place.

Thought I was making good progress at first seeing a lot of the brown come off with a toothbrush, magic eraser type sponge and some Oxyclean with a first pass under running water. But, as soon as the water dried off, it was like nothing happened and the gunk was still on pretty good. So the process was scrub, dry, inspect, scrub again - took about eight rounds to get it in decent shape to where the fins look matte black.

Whatever stuff BMW used on these vents is a real pain - not only do you have to get it off the fins, but the water residue leaves brown remnants on other parts of plastic making the mess even bigger. I got to the point where it was good enough before hitting it with some polish but honestly, could not get it all off 100%.


The Center Vents cleaned up the best with the side vents surprisingly taking more effort. I used Novus plastic cleaner for the center and Sonax trim restorer for the side vents as the Novus didn't blacken them enough.


Placed them back in the car this morning. Results are ok - we'll see how long it holds up. At least this was one fix where buying new vents just doesn't make sense given the material that is on them or made with them as it will brown over time.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by demas

At least this was one fix where buying new vents just doesn't make sense given the material that is on them or made with them as it will brown over time.

Agreed, but on the other hand new vents do at least reset the clock. It's the route I took and they did look brand new. So it may have to do with how they are stored... if you garage the car more often than the previous owner or use a sunshade when parked outside, they might last a really long time. Also there's a tiny chance the new ones look new because they made a change along the way (no coating, or different plastic, or whatever). I really can't say but I kind of doubt they are coated, it's probably just a bad choice in plastic and somethign is blooming to the surface of it and / or it's oxidizing. UV won't be helping at all.

Just thinking out loud if you end up wishing they were perfect, that new ones might last longer than the old.

[demas]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Agreed, but on the other hand new vents do at least reset the clock. It's the route I took and they did look brand new. So it may have to do with how they are stored... if you garage the car more often than the previous owner or use a sunshade when parked outside, they might last a really long time. Also there's a tiny chance the new ones look new because they made a change along the way (no coating, or different plastic, or whatever). I really can't say but I kind of doubt they are coated, it's probably just a bad choice in plastic and somethign is blooming to the surface of it and / or it's oxidizing. UV won't be helping at all.

Just thinking out loud if you end up wishing they were perfect, that new ones might last longer than the old.

I do think it is the plastic as opposed to a coating - as the more you wash/wear away, you just start grinding into the material. Unless they made a change somewhere in production, I believe they will oxidize over time and conditions. I may replace them down the line as you say a new set taken care of can probably last a long time.

[demas]

Originally Posted by Fishee

All I have to say is, thank god it's not Jet Black.
BSM is easier to care for...

I have the same dilemma with wheels.
The factory wheels (despite needing a more aggressive offset / concavity, and lower weight) do really suit the car.
The only BBS fitment that I see that works is the CHR, and I'm not sure it's an aesthetic improvement over the factory wheel design.

Looked more like Jet Black than Sapphire Black Metallic in the picture - but still an amazing finish!

I'm not completely sold on the LM's for the E82 as they kind of work but it needs a drop and a few cosmetics to get it looking right. LM's were more of a 80's/90's boxy BMW fit. I haven't seen any other BBS or other wheels that really wow me like the stock M-Sport.

I used Style 32's on my preivous 5 that had deep dishes - almost like the Alpina wheels. I wonder if the old M-Pars (E38/39) would fit the E82? Always liked those too.



I may go 10mm spacers all around with the stock wheels - that would flush them out. I assume someone has done that already here - I just got to search the forum more :-)

[blue135]

Then there are the 313s. To my eye, the best wheel on the series.

[NorthernDancer]

Nice car; are you doing the work outside or hidden in a garage? I have the feeling, right or wrong, that doing work outside might annoy the neighbours.
Things to consider: buy a Mickey Mouse flange and keep it in your glove box until you have a chance to change it. Get something into your seat leather if the leather is very dry-you don't want it cracking.

[fotontom]

Originally Posted by blue135

Then there are the 313s. To my eye, the best wheel on the series.

I agree the 313's are among the best, but no apologies for my own favorite, The M3 CSL style.