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06-18-2012, 10:09 AM | #1 |
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Auxiliary water cooler & Enhanced radiator fan
2008 135I N54
Is it possible to purchase the Auxiliary water cooler and Enhanced radiator fan, without having to purchase the BMW performance power kit stage 2? If so what are the part numbers? Is this something the parts manager at the dealer could work around and help me? Its sounds like the enhanced radiator fan is a 800W rather then the normal 600W? |
06-18-2012, 10:23 AM | #3 |
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06-18-2012, 10:57 AM | #4 |
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06-20-2012, 02:47 PM | #5 |
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I asked Dan at United. Yes, you can order the parts. I asked for everything buy the larger fan. This is the list of parts and prices he provided me:
17117602241 177.79 07147144953 X2 1.03/EA 17217540030 4.00 07119903995 0.58 17127602294 99.42 64216963248 0.70 51742157684 218.61 64219222129 36.73 51647154546 33.84
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'08 135i auto, premium, sport: JB4, BMS DCI, dinan camber plates, OBX DPs, custom oil cooler.
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06-20-2012, 03:24 PM | #6 |
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I think buying just the larger fan would help keep things cooler. Does all that stuff need to be "coded" to the car?
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04-18-2014, 07:21 PM | #7 |
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I'll be doing this mod and am ordering the 4 primary part numbers needed (I already have a 1M front bumper and fender liner).
Radiator 17117602241 Hose 17127602294 Hose 64219222129 Bracket 51647154545 Radiators work at speed where fans help when the car isn't moving at speed, so I'll try the radiator first in our race car.
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04-18-2014, 08:25 PM | #8 | |
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Please post your results, and how hard the installation is. Searching around I've heard relocation of the horn is required, along with specific ducting dependent on what bumper you have. I'm thinking this install may be a bit complicated.
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2011 135i M Sport LeMans Blue (sold)
2016 M235i Estoril Blue (sold) 2016 M3 San Marino Blue |
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04-18-2014, 09:37 PM | #9 |
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The fan only helps when you not moving/moving real slow, does that happen alot? Are you having issues keeping coolant or oil temps in check? IMO I'd look at a in front IC and get a full size radiator, either custom or possibly M3 or something.
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2008 135i - MHD/JB4, MS DP's, AMS IC, UI CAI, CDV delete, M3 control arms/Links, RE Toe Link, ECS Trailing Arm, M3 rear SF & Trans bushings, SS brake lines, Michelin PSS.
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04-18-2014, 10:04 PM | #10 |
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The installation of the whole PPK2 was (for the most part) pretty straight forward. The install can be accomplished on front jack stands with a normal metric tool set and a set of small T-torque sockets. The instruction do not fully explain what parts needs to be removed in order to start the installation. To begin, you will need to remove the cabin filter/plastic shelf that sits over the rear of the engine bay (instructions can be found at Burger Motorsports where they walk you through the oil catch can install). Next you will need to remove the big black plastic tray under the engine and the front bumper cover. This is pretty straight forward... just a lot of bolts. If you haven't removed the bumper cover before, the only tricky part is unlocking the plastic tabs on the side where the bumper meets the corner panel. You will need a small nylon pry bar to slip between the bumper and corner panel. If you look closely, there appears to be a black plastic gasket between the bumper and corner panel. Push the pry bar between this gasket and the bumper cover (i.e. the bottom of the gasket). Shove the pry bar in while pulling on the bumper and the clip will unlock. It may take a bit of force at first but the pieces are pretty strong. You will also want to remove the intercooler. This is super easy and there is a video at Horsepower Freaks that walks you through the process. Now you are ready for install.
The hardest part of the install was drilling holes in the bumper support for the horn relocation. The worst part of the instructions dealt with the installation of the new supporting bracket that the aux radiator mounts on... You will need to remove all four bolts holding the bumper support to the frame on the driver side and loosen the four bolts on the passenger side. You need to pull the whole front section of the car forward to remove the old bracket and replace it with the new bracket which will sit flat behind the bumper support mount. I think i also removed the two bolts connecting each corner panel to the front section of the car. These bolts are located on the far front corners of the engine bay. This will make more sense when you see/feel what prevents the front bumper section from moving forward. The front section does not have to come off the car, it just needs to pull forward so you can remove the existing plate and install the new plate with the mounting bracket. Other things that come to mind... The fan has two screws holding it to the car (passenger side) and one clip (driver side). After the radiator was drained, I found removing the hose on the top/driver side of the radiator made the removal and installation of the fan much easier, although it is a tight fit. The hose connections are awesome. Very easy to install. When removing the old hoses, keep in mind that they have a spline. In other words they cannot twist on the fittings. If the old lines feel stuck, look at the direction of the spline on the new hoses and rock the hoses back and forth in the direction of the spline until they loosen up. To remove/connect the hose that goes to the firewall, I found it helpful to disconnect one side of the hose on top of the rear diverter valve. This gave me more room to reach the fitting on the fire wall. Removing the hose on the diverter valve is easy... Just twist the gray plastic ring on the hose and pull on the hose. The electrical section is pretty straight forward, just need to open the white ECU box on the passenger side of the engine bay and locate the wires that connect to the wire harness that runs to the new fan relay. Just take your time and double check the wires before cutting and splicing. After you put it all back together and replace the coolant, don't forget to prime the water pump. If you plan on tackling the job, and it's your first time removing the bumper, intercooler, fan, etc., give yourself 8 hours. |
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08-07-2014, 11:14 AM | #11 |
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Hey guys, any of you take pics of the install?
Pig Farmer > Nice write up man. scottn2retro > How did this work out for you? I don't want to do the fan either. |
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08-07-2014, 11:21 AM | #12 |
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Pig Farmer: just want to confirm, you installed all of the ppk 2 hardware without using the ppk 2 and everything works fine (mainly the upgraded fan)?
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08-26-2014, 02:38 PM | #13 |
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I think it helps, but we were at Miller in Utah in 90+ deg. heat and the car would still occassionally go into limp mode. But we should be past any more hot weather races this year, so I'll wait until early next year to back it out and go with the 2nd large oil cooler and see how that does.
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08-26-2014, 05:26 PM | #14 |
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10-06-2014, 01:57 PM | #16 |
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Update >
In case you guys run into this post and want more details, check out my build. On the home page (1st page), search for the "UPDATE 09/03/14 - DUCTS & PPK2 PART-2" section. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862256 Hope it helps! |
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03-13-2015, 10:47 AM | #18 |
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Hi Guys -
After fixing a flaky boost pressure sensor that quit taking us to limp mode, we ran at Chuckwalla in some pretty long sprint races in fairly hot weather (90+ on Sunday) and did not have any overheating issues with our current setup of: a) ER oil cooler (single) b) 1M aux. water radiator c) heater on full blast Next step for us is to try deleting the heater box and see how that does, but we may wait until after the summer races just to be sure.
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03-13-2015, 03:41 PM | #19 | |
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02-19-2020, 01:51 AM | #20 |
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Back from the dead. Curious if anyone installed the ppk2 radiator with the stock fan. Is there sufficient clearance between the hoses and the pulleys? I have a csf radiator so that may make clearance even worse but just trying to find out if this is possible for the time being.
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02-19-2020, 11:23 AM | #21 | |
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I think it's this little guy, mentioned above: Radiator PN 17117602241 |
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02-19-2020, 01:01 PM | #22 |
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lol. Sorry I probably wasn’t very clear. I’m asking about the small radiator that goes in the driver side bumper. I saw some people posting that the replacement hoses you use to connect that small radiator to the main radiator may have clearance issues if you use the stock fan. I think that PPK fan is more thin. I am hoping to use my stock fan but just want confirmation the new hoses will clear the pulleys.
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