DSB pics after detail - new 701's and tires!

[competition]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

It's all in good fun. I don't think anybody actually meant any harm. Like Kev said, this was pretty light compared to the OP's "style" of posting.

I just wanted to clear up the misconception that these are in any way similar to my orgasmic Advans lol.

HAHA no way in hell they are.

You're comparing different casting processes. Advans are flow formed cast and VMR are gravity cast.

Here's a video on real vs fake: (please excuse the way my ancestors spell words. they not used to american spellings and such)

[91Kevin]

I love how all the related videos at the end are fail videos lol

[1013mm]

youre going to get some "natural" negative camber with a drop either I would not worry about it. BMW oem is very conservative so it won't change the settings much, performance-wise, it might change, but even then, that's subjective. A 5mm spacer is practically nothing. You're at et 40 and et 50 now, and that's what VMR used to sell to the 1-series market anyway. What most of us are more worried about is the tire sizing you have. That's aggressive. But to play it safe, I still suggest negative camber or the easiest solution is to take out the 5mm. BUT it all depends on your drop and your roads. The same set up may work for you but not me and vice versa. a couple degrees will be fine. Don't even think you'll need a kit for that.

[schteve97]

Originally Posted by goeslikeschnell

nice wheels. i kinda dig the look.

[thez99]

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

Your set were the only ones I liked. I think the polishing makes the blandness go away.

Well, im sorta sorry but not sorry you feel that way. It kind of irritates me a bit when people call certain things "bland or plain", I mean to me basically that just means you like a diff kind of wheel, your more a mesh wheel design kind of person which is fine, but saying mine are plain and bland?? That's being a bit ignorant, i mean if I really wanted to go there id say the same thing bout all Alfugen wheels, same bout the apex 8's, same bout alot of other designs. But to ME, theres so many damn wheel designs and they all have a different feel depending on the car theyre on. If i was driving a slammed 370Z then id want a deep concaved wheel likely with a wider lip. However on this car that just wouldnt look right to me, but these do i feel, as well as a wheel like the advan rz's and the bbs lm's.

Hell, I even got a "really nice car, i love how it looks" from the semi sexy lil lady working at the shop I was at today. Its personal opinion is what it is and I like em, nor did I spend an arm n a leg on em, so IF they do happen to chip or god forbid crack somewhere down the road, its not near as big of a loss to me. I rather spend more of my money on the tires and the suspension (coming soon) as those are not so much for cosmetics but more for performance and with them, it REALLY is a "you get what u pay for" deal.

Oh and btw, had the 5mm's installed on the front, the tires outside edge pokes a tiny bit outside the very outside of the fender, but the outside of the tread still plays inside. I did a bit of mixed driving on the way home and the only time i got a little fender rub was going about 55ish and i hit one of those fairly big "dips", not a bump but a down n up kinda thing, it rubbed a little there, but nowhere else, not over bumps or turns and it only rubs when I turn full tilt which is never necessary anyways, so im pleased bout that. Now when I do eventually go for the PS suspension and m3 bits i MAY have to switch to a 3mm spacer or maybe just remove it altogether then. What dyou guys think? I mean with the m3 front control arms/wishbones, with its neg camber how much farther IN will that likely put my tires, i.e. compared to where im at now where i have bout 5-6mm of space between the tires edge and strut. I figure if I just added the m3 bits now without a drop it would likely be perfect, tires tucked well nuff under the fender but still with atleast 2mm of space from the strut. But lowering it, I dunno, could cause problems unless i switched to a 3 or removed the spacer. Btw how much neg camber does the m3 rear bits add to the rear wheel if any?

Originally Posted by jzhang

The veggie group blows, sorry, if it wasnt for the sexy lady theyd be nowhere

Originally Posted by escobar929

yea, I know what you mean but thats pretty childish IMO. I never take OP too serious when I see his replies either way but that doesnt mean I should crap on any thread he starts

Ow...my pride

Originally Posted by HondaGoneRogue

It's all in good fun. I don't think anybody actually meant any harm. Like Kev said, this was pretty light compared to the OP's "style" of posting.

I just wanted to clear up the misconception that these are in any way similar to my orgasmic Advans lol.

I really am not getting why some of you make it sound like my posts on these guys' threads have been so bad...i said before, i posted my opinion plain as day on those threads, no name calling, no being an ass or saying i was better then them, just simply stating i felt that running wheels that stuck an inch past the fender was a bad idea in so many words..

So unless you're stalking my posts and copy n pasting every little swear or something I have posted..what is your issue with me?

Originally Posted by Mr. Clarkson

Originally Posted by dicker

WHY ARE WE YELLING!!!?!?!?!!?!

1- The comparison pics of the VMRs and Advans should be of advan RS not RZ....

2- OP you drive really slow if that doesn't rub, once you lower it it will rub a lot, especially in the rear. 255/35 on 18x9 +50 rubs and so does 265/35 on 18x9.5 +57.

The front should be ok though, I would not add the 5 mil spacers unless you want to roll your fenders.

Dick, driving home today i went over 100 2-3 times on backroads near my house, they were not perfectly flat n straight either, NO rubbing. Sorry if this seems alien to you or something, but ive even gotten down on my hands n knees shining a light up and measuring the space from the inside fender and the tires tread and both the rear and front (even with the 5mm's) have enough clearance, infact the rears even more so. You really think i would drive around my driveway like a granny and report back no rubbing like I was being straight? Im telling it like it is, you say 255's on 18x9 et50's rub which is TOTALLY bullshit. I ran a set of 255's on my previous set of 18"710s last year, the tires were 255/35's on 9.5" et 50 wheels with NO issues and even more clearance then i have now. Nor would 265's rub on a 9.5" et57, only way that could be is if there was rubbing on the strut, but if thats so then how dyou explain those running the apex arc-8's that are 9.5" et62 with 265 tires, thats even closer to the strut with no rubbing.

Try n get ur facts straight before you try going all gung ho

Originally Posted by jzhang

youre going to get some "natural" negative camber with a drop either I would not worry about it. BMW oem is very conservative so it won't change the settings much, performance-wise, it might change, but even then, that's subjective. A 5mm spacer is practically nothing. You're at et 40 and et 50 now, and that's what VMR used to sell to the 1-series market anyway. What most of us are more worried about is the tire sizing you have. That's aggressive. But to play it safe, I still suggest negative camber or the easiest solution is to take out the 5mm. BUT it all depends on your drop and your roads. The same set up may work for you but not me and vice versa. a couple degrees will be fine. Don't even think you'll need a kit for that.

Thanks for the real advice

So is there anyway to tell how much the negative camber from the m3 parts would push the inner tire's edge to the strut? I mean i know obviously that with my current no drop setup without the 5mm if i installed the m3 parts I would be rubbing the strut non-stop, but if i went to a 3mm i wonder if id be ok with the neg camber and still go with a mild drop. I mean the reason why I got the spacers is cuz my shop tech told me that with that setup there was only bout 1mm of space between the tire n strut, so if I were to just drop the suspension and leave the tire that close to the strut i would still def be rubbing the strut, prob not the fender but still the strut. So I can imagine WITH the 5mm spacer and neg camber it should still allow atleast 2mm of space from the strut as well as keep the tread edge well nuff inside the fender from the neg camber with the m3 bits. Really i would just need to work the numbers.

And really the main reason for me wanting to swap the springs is not so much for the drop but for the increased rates, the slightly lower center of grav will help but as far as the overall performance, that would be changed more with the shocks and the m3 parts getting rid of that bouncy feeling over fast bumps and stuff like that. I just want my tires to fit when all this is done. If I really have to go to a lower size tire at that point which I sincerely hope not i will likely just say screw it and forgo the drop and keep the stock springs with aftermarket shocks, m3 bits and the tires the way they are.

[1013mm]

Originally Posted by thez99

So is there anyway to tell how much the negative camber from the m3 parts would push the inner tire's edge to the strut? I mean i know obviously that with my current no drop setup without the 5mm if i installed the m3 parts I would be rubbing the strut non-stop, but if i went to a 3mm i wonder if id be ok with the neg camber and still go with a mild drop. I mean the reason why I got the spacers is cuz my shop tech told me that with that setup there was only bout 1mm of space between the tire n strut, so if I were to just drop the suspension and leave the tire that close to the strut i would still def be rubbing the strut, prob not the fender but still the strut. So I can imagine WITH the 5mm spacer and neg camber it should still allow atleast 2mm of space from the strut as well as keep the tread edge well nuff inside the fender from the neg camber with the m3 bits. Really i would just need to work the numbers.

And really the main reason for me wanting to swap the springs is not so much for the drop but for the increased rates, the slightly lower center of grav will help but as far as the overall performance, that would be changed more with the shocks and the m3 parts getting rid of that bouncy feeling over fast bumps and stuff like that. I just want my tires to fit when all this is done. If I really have to go to a lower size tire at that point which I sincerely hope not i will likely just say screw it and forgo the drop and keep the aftermarket shocks, m3 bits and the tires the way they are.

You won't be able to tell until you actually do it or if someone else has done the same. you really don't need much to clear the fenders (stock fenders in your case) you need about 5mm - 8mm (10mm to be safe with your 235) to clear it. so with a minimal drop and some minimal negative camber, you can run this setup according to my experience. I never ran your tires before so the different tire sidewalls might alter my advice a bit. Your tires are thick though. I'd say go get an alignment with some negative camber and take off the 5mm. If you're still having some trouble after that I would go with one of the following options:

-Roll fenders
-Camber kit
-shaved fenders
-widebody

From lowest end to highest end of the spectrum

[VMRWheels]

OP,

Im glad you are happy with the setup. That is all that matters. The wheels look great and its nice to see 1-Series guys pushing the tires with the 265's on 9.5 +50's. You are the first with the bronze powder coat that iv seen.

-Charles@VMRWheels

[thez99]

Originally Posted by jzhang

You won't be able to tell until you actually do it or if someone else has done the same. you really don't need much to clear the fenders (stock fenders in your case) you need about 5mm - 8mm (10mm to be safe with your 235) to clear it. so with a minimal drop and some minimal negative camber, you can run this setup according to my experience. I never ran your tires before so the different tire sidewalls might alter my advice a bit. Your tires are thick though. I'd say go get an alignment with some negative camber and take off the 5mm. If you're still having some trouble after that I would go with one of the following options:

-Roll fenders
-Camber kit
-shaved fenders
-widebody

From lowest end to highest end of the spectrum

3 things

#1, what exactly do you mean by needing 5-8-10mm to clear the fenders? Dyou mean size of gap between the fender and the top of the tire?

#2, If as they were before the 5mm spacers, the tires were so close to the struts, wouldnt removing the spacers and adding neg camber put the tire's inside edge even closer to the strut and cause more rubbing? Or would it make the wheel/tire's overall edge more in line with the strut seeing as the struts go up and in at a bit of an angle?

#3, widebody kit..damn You gots 2 grand for meh?

Im still unsure bout fender rolling with this car, I mean i know its pretty much pointless in the rear as #1 its just not needed and #2 the fender really cant be rolled much at all as its more a thick piece of metal with the fender lining attached, whereas the front fenders are thinner without a liner and could atleast allow an additional 5mm maybe on each side by folding the "V" area of the fender edge in.

[thez99]

Originally Posted by VMRWheels

OP,

Im glad you are happy with the setup. That is all that matters. The wheels look great and its nice to see 1-Series guys pushing the tires with the 265's on 9.5 +50's. You are the first with the bronze powder coat that iv seen.

-Charles@VMRWheels

Well sell some more then dammit, I think the satin bronze is a lot more interesting n sexy than just a matte black or something. Of course ive never really been fond at all of black wheels, just doesnt work with me.

[dicker]

Originally Posted by thez99

Dick, driving home today i went over 100 2-3 times on backroads near my house, they were not perfectly flat n straight either, NO rubbing. Sorry if this seems alien to you or something, but ive even gotten down on my hands n knees shining a light up and measuring the space from the inside fender and the tires tread and both the rear and front (even with the 5mm's) have enough clearance, infact the rears even more so. You really think i would drive around my driveway like a granny and report back no rubbing like I was being straight? Im telling it like it is, you say 255's on 18x9 et50's rub which is TOTALLY bullshit. I ran a set of 255's on my previous set of 18"710s last year, the tires were 255/35's on 9.5" et 50 wheels with NO issues and even more clearance then i have now. Nor would 265's rub on a 9.5" et57, only way that could be is if there was rubbing on the strut, but if thats so then how dyou explain those running the apex arc-8's that are 9.5" et62 with 265 tires, thats even closer to the strut with no rubbing.

Try n get ur facts straight before you try going all gung ho

I have 255/35 on 9+50's (advan RZ) and 265/35 on 9+57 (arc 8 with a 5 mil spacer) I'd know man.

They both rub the fender liner in the right rear over big bumps, the ARC without the 5 mil do not rub. Once you lower the car you'll see.

[1013mm]

Originally Posted by thez99

3 things

#1, what exactly do you mean by needing 5-8-10mm to clear the fenders? Dyou mean size of gap between the fender and the top of the tire?

#2, If as they were before the 5mm spacers, the tires were so close to the struts, wouldnt removing the spacers and adding neg camber put the tire's inside edge even closer to the strut and cause more rubbing? Or would it make the wheel/tire's overall edge more in line with the strut seeing as the struts go up and in at a bit of an angle?

#3, widebody kit..damn You gots 2 grand for meh?

Im still unsure bout fender rolling with this car, I mean i know its pretty much pointless in the rear as #1 its just not needed and #2 the fender really cant be rolled much at all as its more a thick piece of metal with the fender lining attached, whereas the front fenders are thinner without a liner and could atleast allow an additional 5mm maybe on each side by folding the "V" area of the fender edge in.

#1 yes, to clear.

You shouldn't be worried about the rears at all. When I am addressing your posts I am in fact addressing them solely in regards to the front fitment. Sorry if I didn't make it clear. I would go for one of my stated options while having a 3-5mm spacer on to clear the strut end, but in all honesty... I am running an 18x9 et38 in the front no problems. That's 1-2mm away from the strut. My tires are stretched so that the tire sidewalls don't even come close to the strut at all. Your meatier tires might have some trouble, or it might not. It's not the wheel you need to worry about because I'm proof 18x9 can fit with no spacers. rears you are fine as is.

[thez99]

Well then why exactly do you have 5mm spacers on your rear wheels??? You dont need those. Tires rubbing when youve done something like that isnt a mystery.

Now if your rubbing the fender LINER on a drop, thats another thing. I mean if your that slammed, sure your gonna hit the liner on big dips specially with speed. But thats not what you orig posted. You just said that 255's on a 9 and 265's on a 9.5 et57 rubbed. Fact is with no drop or a mild drop neither of those fitments would rub at all in the rear, not the fender edge or the liner. But like i said if your slammed that low than yes ull hit the liners, but prob still not the edges which is usually the issue and def the issue we're talking bout in THIS thread. If you dont wanna rub anymore just remove the useless 5mm spacers u have in the rear and ease up on the drop a bit. Im sure you could be dropped even 1-1.5" without having to worry bout liner rub

[competition]

...but he's not slammed...

[dicker]

5 mm spacers look good man! why else do we get wheels?

My car isn't slammed, take a look:

[competition]

doesn't look slammed to me.. Eibach springs right? I think you mentioned that before

[thez99]

Originally Posted by jzhang

#1 yes, to clear.

You shouldn't be worried about the rears at all. When I am addressing your posts I am in fact addressing them solely in regards to the front fitment. Sorry if I didn't make it clear. I would go for one of my stated options while having a 3-5mm spacer on to clear the strut end, but in all honesty... I am running an 18x9 et38 in the front no problems. That's 1-2mm away from the strut. My tires are stretched so that the tire sidewalls don't even come close to the strut at all. Your meatier tires might have some trouble, or it might not. It's not the wheel you need to worry about because I'm proof 18x9 can fit with no spacers. rears you are fine as is.

Wait, you have an 18x9 et38 setup and ur still that close to the strut? How is that possible? Isnt it that the lower the offset, the farther away from the strut the edge of the wheel is cuz the hub is set farther inside the wheel which in turn makes for a wheel poking farther OUT then IN? Specially since u have skinnier tires that arch in more, mine are meatier on a wheel that has a larger offset meaning the wheel sits farther INSIDE the fender hence my obviously close proximity to the strut.

Now im a lil confuzed

[thez99]

Originally Posted by dicker

5 mm spacers look good man! why else do we get wheels?

My car isn't slammed, take a look:

Well then guy, I dun have a clue why ur rubbing. Unless ur hearing things or something else is really going on. You wouldnt rub ur LINER unless u were dropped pretty far on coils and went over a nice sized bump, thats simply due to the close proximity between the top of the tire and the liner. Rubbing the fender edge would be from having a wheel/tire that pokes out too far which is not the case with 18x9 et57's and 265 tires. Thats the same size tire as mine on a wheel thats 7mm farther inside the fender. You should have no issues unless ur slammed. If you are then who knows

Maybe time for an alignment?

Take some inline shots of the rear close up from the bottom and from over top of the fender like I did

[competition]

I think it was a typo..

I think he meant 18x9.5 et57

[1013mm]

Originally Posted by thez99

Wait, you have an 18x9 et38 setup and ur still that close to the strut? How is that possible? Isnt it that the lower the offset, the farther away from the strut the edge of the wheel is cuz the hub is set farther inside the wheel which in turn makes for a wheel poking farther OUT then IN? Specially since u have skinnier tires that arch in more, mine are meatier on a wheel that has a larger offset meaning the wheel sits farther INSIDE the fender hence my obviously close proximity to the strut.

Now im a lil confuzed

nope. 18x9 vs 18x8.5.... the extra .5" is wider both ways. the lower et adds into this equation how the extra .5" is split. if that even makes sense.

[competition]

Originally Posted by jzhang

nope. 18x9 vs 18x8.5.... the extra .5" is wider both ways. the lower et adds into this equation how the extra .5" is split. if that even makes sense.

.5" equals to 12mm

[1013mm]

Originally Posted by goeslikeschnell

.5" equals to 12mm

yep. which is why its not his wheel that bothers me at all. more like the fatty tire.

[HondaGoneRogue]

Originally Posted by thez99

Well, im sorta sorry but not sorry you feel that way.

Don't be. I'm on the real things. They are bland, that's my opinion. I just figured after all of the opinions you've blessed this forum with, I would share some back.