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[Kracken]

All was well prior to pulling into discount tire to get my PSS tires installed- no TPMS warning.
Towards end of job they informed me a sensor was cracked and would not tighten down so it needs to be replaced. ugh... 70 bucks later using a BERU unit with an internal Dill sensor.
Now, the system wont reset even though they said these work. Called dealer and they said discount tire must have cracked it during install or It would have had a failure warning prior to going there to begin with- makes sense.

Wouldnt this type of crack lead to a slow leak eventually throwing a failure?

So now not only do I probably need to spend 150 on a OE sensor, I need to challenge them on the crack to begin with by them likely over torqueing it
More to follow, waiting for a call back from DT. I already drove back once only for them to scan the sensor saying it was good.

See crack cutting through label in center on the bottom side..Im pissed and hate having to fight for stuff like this but I will hold firm and see where things go. Ive been calm and tactful so far in discussing this.

[ONDEMAND]

Exact same situation happened to me.

Ordered new Ventus V12 EVO's from discount Tire Direct (best price) and go to have them installed. Then it happens.

Now they actually told me that they cracked the sensor, and of course they have one in stock that is identical or so they tell me. They install "their" sensor and I go on my happy way knowing it takes a few miles driven for the sensor to reset. 2 days later and still no dice.

Here is what I did.

In a polite but very very firm way explain that the system worked when you came in.

System does not work now. They need to make it right.

Find the production month of your car (BMW changed sensors at some point) and get the specific part number (phone a dealer and have them confirm which part #).

Give the specific part number to the manager at Discount and have them purchase the part and install.

System will reset in 5-10 miles of driving (after you manually reset it through stalk)

Good luck man. I know its frustrating but hey atleast you likely got the best deal around on the tires. service not so much!

[Kracken]

These guys arent even admitting they cracked it so I ended buying one. (Mistake, I know- should of questioned the crack then) Then theyre saying with the crack it wont "tighten properly"- I need a new one. The new sensor doesnt work/reset so now they want to try another of their version sensors tomorrow to see if it fixes it.
If I have go to the dealer and buy one in the end, they will most likely only cover just 70 bucks for the 150 the stealer is asking for these.

Regarding design, If these are cracked like mine are, does the crack directly tie into the valve stem mounting torque? In other words, Will air leak around the valve stem causing a flat (and TPMS Fault) if this connection is loose because of the cracked plastic? or is the sensor mounting independent from the valve stem?
Please educate me! lol
If the later is the case, I may just tell them to kiss my ass and put the cracked sensor back on and ill use a good locktite so the sensor mounting screw will hold. Even with the crack, Im guessing they will hold once the loctite dries...I could even epoxy the crack prior to install if you think it will help things...
If anyone thinks otherwise or has more suggestions- Im all ears
Thanks

[AKopp]

I'd just bite the bullet and get the OEM sensor(s) and be done with it. You get some clowns mounting tires that aren't the most educated. These tires can be a sonofa to dismount and mount. But it's easy to not break the sensors if you know what you're doing. It's shitty they don't man up and take care of you with OEM parts.

[Kracken]

Thanks but not for 150 that I had no involvement in breaking. If it comes to that and their other replacement sensor fails tomorrow, I will order online. Found them for 68 at get BMW parts.
The crack is propagating to the far side of the sensor near the circuit board so re-installing that would be a lost cause I'm afraid.
It looks like the threaded sleeve (E) is torqued to the valve stem on (C) And C just butts up against the inside of the rim.? Correct?
Hmm...Anyone know the torque value of (E) and the little bolt (A)? I'll use these figures to see what they supposedly torqued them to- if at all.
I'll do a search to see if I can find these torques...boneheads at DT, I swear.
Thanks...