TUN3D 135i build (1M Conversion)

[TUN3D]

Mybad135 > Thanks man! Just about there.

[TUN3D]

Update >

Body work is now complete -- added pics. Next up is primer and wet-sanding. Waiting for the hood, hinges, and gas shocks to come in. Also waiting on that 850w radiator fan shroud to see if I can secure that PPK2 hose properly.

[MaDoNiOn]

Originally Posted by TUN3D

DTR > Thanks for following man! I post pictures on there as things happen -- glad you're on-board.

The cut we made on the black (1M panel) is about 1" longer than what is revealed. It tucks inside the car (135i panel). When the bond/glue is applied along the seam, the screws push both panels together. You can't even fit a nail in between the two.

After it dries, all screws are removed. I added the pics on the home page. Check it out.

ahh i was almost correct :P.
The 1" piece of metal that was tucked inside do you know if he bent it before tucking or did he just tuck inside and glue?

it sure looks good man! thanx so much for all the photo's and taking the time to write out the do's and dont

[DTR]

Originally Posted by TUN3D

DTR > Thanks for following man! I post pictures on there as things happen -- glad you're on-board.

The cut we made on the black (1M panel) is about 1" longer than what is revealed. It tucks inside the car (135i panel). When the bond/glue is applied along the seam, the screws push both panels together. You can't even fit a nail in between the two.

After it dries, all screws are removed. I added the pics on the home page. Check it out.

AHHHHHHHH....... nice. good move on the bodywork guy. did he just over lay or did he make a "fillet" all the way along the joining edge. just curious.

very nice tho.

Kudos...

[TUN3D]

MaDoNiOn > There was no need to bend it any further, as it was cut above the natural body line. It had the perfect/natural curvature needed to tuck in properly.

DTR > Fish "fillet" brotha! Along with spot welding, corrosion primer, metal bonding & sealant.

[DTR]

^^^ DOPEAGE right there man! great work by your body guy

[TUN3D]

DTR > Thanks. He knocked it out of the park. Everything is smooth to the touch. I can't even see where the work was done.

[TUN3D]

Update >

Waiting for my hood to come in before going to paint.

On the PPK2 and radiator side of things -- I'm about 99% that you need the 850w fan/shroud. The shroud is the main issue here. The 850w fan shroud is significantly different. The shape of the housing -- plus -- the clipping/attachment point(s) for the PPK2 hose just doesn't work.

What this means is that:
1) You CAN NOT attach/secure the PPK2 hose to the 600w fan shroud properly (clipping/attachment points are off).
2) The shape of the 600w fan shroud pushes the PPK2 hose into the engine pulleys (rubs/grinds on the pulleys).

=============

All things considered, I bought the 850w fan shroud (as it's the cheaper option and available separately), and tried swapping the fan. This DOES NOT work. The mount on the 600w fan is a hexagon-type shape -- whereas -- the 850w fan is a perfect circle. It simply doesn't fit.

I also did some research and found that other vehicles like the X5 & X6 have a circular fan which -- technically -- could work on the 850w fan shroud. Also, get this -- the X5 and X6 come with a 600w fan option.

X5 Radiator Fan
X6 Radiator Fan

Id love to get a hold of one of these to test it, but they're just not a hot commodity. Couldn't find any cheap options. E-bay had like two of them but internationally and expensive. The idea would be to see if the X5/X6's 600w "round" fan, mounts onto the 850w fan shroud.

Anyways, gents -- looks like we're gonna have to take it up the "Hershey-Highway" here and cough up $550 for the 850w fan/shroud. That, or being that the PPK2 hose is powder-coated aluminum (if memory serves me correctly), it can simply be bent/readjusted to work with the 600w fan/shroud.

Even though the 135i's are wired for the 600w fan, there are people who have dropped in the 850w fan (plug-n-play) without the extra harness & relay the PPK2 kit comes with.

[MaDoNiOn]

its been too long! :P. Im frothing for some new pics! haha i see you got some new ones on instagram! aint we good enough here anymore :P.

[TUN3D]

MaDoNiOn > Phone broke man...lol. Those were the last ones I took before it went "ka-poof". Getting a new one in a few days. Got all the parts for the trunk relocation and started the process. Hope to finalize that today/tomorrow. Gonna be a bitch tho -- I have to practically take out the entire cage.

Hood should come in by/before Wednesday. If the schedule stays intact, plan is to paint by/before this weekend.

[DTR]

that explains my frowning face everytime i go on instagram and see no updates....

[Yeineken]

Originally Posted by DTR

that explains my frowning face everytime i go on instagram and see no updates....

+1

[ShocknAwe]

Maybe I'm being naive here, but instead of using that aluminum pipe that comes with the ppk2 cooler, what if you cut it off and used flexible radiator hosing? Then you should be able to use the existing clips on the 600W shroud.

[TUN3D]

ShocknAwe > You might be able to do that. You'd have to modify the pipe significantly at both ends (fitting and connecting point).

[MaDoNiOn]

Originally Posted by TUN3D

MaDoNiOn > Phone broke man...lol. Those were the last ones I took before it went "ka-poof". Getting a new one in a few days. Got all the parts for the trunk relocation and started the process. Hope to finalize that today/tomorrow. Gonna be a bitch tho -- I have to practically take out the entire cage.

Hood should come in by/before Wednesday. If the schedule stays intact, plan is to paint by/before this weekend.

yoh that sucks man take the car all apart and retake the photos hahaha!
vroom vroom weekend is coming boooooys

we need a sick tune for this thread!

i nominate

Pump up the volume when chorus hits

[TUN3D]

MaDoNiOn > Haha! Nah man, I didn't lose any of the pics -- just been a real PITA to post anything as of late. Been busy as hell with work, amongst other things.

I had to wait a bit for some of the trunk relocation parts to come in from Germany. The hood has not arrived yet either. It was supposed to be delivered on Wednesday but there was a delay. I Should get it today. Did I mention the 1M battery? Yeah...still waiting on that too. The 1M battery part number on real OEM and all online catalogs is dead-wrong. I've had to go directly to BMW-NA to locate it. I'll include the details in an update. Once I get my paws on that damn hood, we'll go to paint.

I've been working 1-2 hours a night (on the lift) getting my head wrapped around the trunk/battery/charcoal-filter relocation task. With limited information, pictures and the OEM diagrams not helping much -- it's been an extremely slow process. I've also had to remove some of the roll cage, adding to the delays.

As of now...the battery tray, charcoal-filter and all vent hoses (with the exception of one) have been installed. I'm about 80% done. The one line not installed properly (that I realized we need and nobody has mentioned), is called the "Scavenge Air-Line" > 16137845196. Once I get this, the charcoal-filter relocation will be complete -- legit.

I'll get some more stuff up hopefully this weekend.

Anyways...sick tune man! 1:02 is when it takes off. Sounds like a Dr.Dre beat. Awesome!

I'll nominate this...

[Tony135]

She's looking goooooood

[TWMPerformance]

This looks incredible, wow!

Renato
Team TWM Performance

[TUN3D]

TWMPerformance & Tony135 > Thank you guys! Appreciate it.

[TUN3D]

Update >

Alright guys, so I had a chance to finish the PPK2 install this past weekend. With everything else going on, I was waiting for a window of opportunity to install the 850w radiator fan/shroud. I did, and...PERFECT! No more rubbing or grinding or anything of that nature. The electrical was plug-n-play. At this point, if you want to do it the right way(and keep it OEM), it's a required part.

I did an update to the "UPDATE 09/03/14 - DUCTS & PPK2 PART-2" section, outlining everything. I think I did a decent job of giving you all the options, details & potential pitfalls of buying the parts individually vs. the kit. Check it out!

[TUN3D]

Update >

On a different note, I'm just about done with the trunk/battery installation and relocation. I've been reluctant to list the parts as I wanted to be 150% sure. That said, I want to cover a little issue before I forget. I'll included it in the official update...

=============

Back at the end of August, I posted a request for battery/trunk pics of real 1M owners. I did this after noticing that some of the 1M's had a "brown" negative cable while other had a "black" negative cable. I wasn't sure whether it was a European vs US spec type thing -- or -- whether it was a build date vs recall type of situation.

As you can see, here are two options:


61127845120 > $22.37 (Brown Cable)
61127618679 > $156.70 (Black Cable)

The price difference is significant. But which one is the proper cable?

Once I got down to it, I pretty much answered my own question. In the initial post (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1023388), Dackelone said they were both the "right" parts. This is TRUE, but not really. Yes, they are both negative terminal cables and WILL work. However, there is a reason WHY they are different so you must order the correct part -- according to your car.

The deciding factor is where/how the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) is installed:


In the diagram above, you see how the 135i battery is wired. In blue, you'll notice how the IBS sensor is connected to the negative terminal. If your 135i's negative battery terminal/cable looks like this -- then you need to order the more expensive replacement > 61127618679. If it doesn't, and you're negative terminal has no other components, then order less expensive replacement > 61127845120.

=============

What the hell is the IBS anyways?
From what I've gathered, it charges the battery "intelligently" increasing voltage just after start-up and decreasing as time goes on. It cuts supply to certain modules if the battery is low, charges it a little bit more if it's winter, helps conserve battery if its running low, and increases battery life (amongst other things).

Can you drive without it -- YES. At least I've been able to. I ordered the brown wire initially and haven't had any issues starting up the car and driving -- albeit -- a few miles. Don't know what the long term implications are of not using the IBS, but don't want to find out. I out my order in for the new cable.

=============


Here's a pic of how the trunk came out...

[MaDoNiOn]

Originally Posted by TUN3D

Update >

On a different note, I'm just about done with the trunk/battery installation and relocation. I've been reluctant to list the parts as I wanted to be 150% sure. That said, I want to cover a little issue before I forget. I'll included it in the official update...

=============

Back at the end of August, I posted a request for battery/trunk pics of real 1M owners. I did this after noticing that some of the 1M's had a "brown" negative cable while other had a "black" negative cable. I wasn't sure whether it was a European vs US spec type thing -- or -- whether it was a build date vs recall type of situation.

As you can see, here are two options:


61127845120 > $22.37 (Brown Cable)
61127618679 > $156.70 (Black Cable)

The price difference is significant. But which one is the proper cable?

Once I got down to it, I pretty much answered my own question. In the initial post (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1023388), Dackelone said they were both the "right" parts. This is TRUE, but not really. Yes, they are both negative terminal cables and WILL work. However, there is a reason WHY they are different so you must order the correct part -- according to your car.

The deciding factor is where/how the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) is installed:


In the diagram above, you see how the 135i battery is wired. In blue, you'll notice how the IBS sensor is connected to the negative terminal. If your 135i's negative battery terminal/cable looks like this -- then you need to order the more expensive replacement > 61127618679. If it doesn't, and you're negative terminal has no other components, then order less expensive replacement > 61127845120.

=============

What the hell is the IBS anyways?
From what I've gathered, it charges the battery "intelligently" increasing voltage just after start-up and decreasing as time goes on. It cuts supply to certain modules if the battery is low, charges it a little bit more if it's winter, helps conserve battery if its running low, and increases battery life (amongst other things).

Can you drive without it -- YES. At least I've been able to. I ordered the brown wire initially and haven't had any issues starting up the car and driving -- albeit -- a few miles. Don't know what the long term implications are of not using the IBS, but don't want to find out. I out my order in for the new cable.

=============


Here's a pic of how the trunk came out...

very interesting VEEEEEEEEEERY interesting! flippen hell though alot for a cable!