06-27-2013, 08:50 PM | #1 |
Captain
137
Rep 718
Posts
Drives: N/A
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Phila, PA
|
ER Charge Pipe pop-out problem, need advise ASAP
Hi,
I just came back from NJMP today. at the last seesion, I got an engine malfunction and I found out the clamp is broken. I attached it. Can anyone tell me where can I got a replacement? And the mechanic at the track help me put the plastic end back and re-tight the clamp up. But you can see the clamp on the bottom left, it's broken. I have another track day tomorrow, do you think I will be OK with the current condition? Thanks for the input.
__________________
2021 F87 HS M2C
2018 F80 SO M3 (SOLD) 2016 F80 AY M3 (SOLD) 2014 F10 M5 LCI (SOLD) 2011 VO 1M (SOLD) |
06-27-2013, 09:26 PM | #2 |
Cone Cruncher
30
Rep 534
Posts |
I would pull the nut off, put a larger nut around the part that split to hold it in place, then add a large washer and put the original nut back on. That should hold until you get a replacement.
Now boost leak is one of my favorite issues (which is how this issue will present). The issue you are seeing should be minimal with the fix above. I was missing a gasket and at one point completely had the inlet from my intercooler separate from the pipe that feeds it. I could still drive on the track. Eventually though, your system won't be able to compensate and you'll end up with error code 0x30FF. That's boost leak and it means the engine can no longer control boost pressure with the waste gates or the blow off valve. The car will go into a low boost mode first, then if you keep pushing it, it can go into limp mode. If you have your pipe separate, I'd expect that to happen. The car is still 100% drivable, but you just won't have any power. When you cool down the car, reconnect the pipes, and re-start it, it should be back to normal until you piss the car off again. Long story short. - You can likely fix this for a track day with a large washer and a nut to fix that split shaft. - If you have access to your boost pressure, turn it down for the track day - If you can't fix the mechanics, the car is still drivable on the track, but if you go into reduced power mode, back off and come back to the pits and have it cool down. You'll still be able to go out again temporarily or get the car home. Good luck. |
Appreciate
0
|
06-27-2013, 10:06 PM | #3 | |
Captain
137
Rep 718
Posts
Drives: N/A
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Phila, PA
|
Quote:
I feel a lot better now. If I understand correct, remove the nut, get the larger nut in there first, then put the washer in, and finally put the original nut back, am I correct?
__________________
2021 F87 HS M2C
2018 F80 SO M3 (SOLD) 2016 F80 AY M3 (SOLD) 2014 F10 M5 LCI (SOLD) 2011 VO 1M (SOLD) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-27-2013, 10:44 PM | #4 | |
Cone Cruncher
30
Rep 534
Posts |
Quote:
Old: [orig. nut][split collar] New: [orig. nut][washer that holds new nut on collar][collar bent back into place][large nut around collar preventing split]. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 10:25 AM | #5 |
Brigadier General
2239
Rep 3,435
Posts |
Sounds like a clever fix, I like it. Toni - Yeah, the idea is that the larger nut will keep those two pieces from flaring apart from each other, which will allow the smaller nut to hold things tight. You might have to use some pliers or something first however to get those two pieces together but it should work.
I would bet that someone at that track would know where to find a new clamp. They may have a garage at the track with some parts laying around, or know of a local shop - possibly a car parts store or a race shop, that would have them too. If you absolutely can't find something and have to order one, I like www.mcmaster.com for these kinds of things. By the way you are looking for a "t-bolt" clamp, a normal clamp from a Lowes / Home Depot won't do it. You probably know that though but just to be sure. Hope you get it fixed and have fun! I am still thoroughly enjoying your old car |
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 11:31 AM | #6 |
Major
450
Rep 1,358
Posts |
I believe that's called a T-bolt clamp. Most automotive stores will carry something similar.
You want to tighten it but not as much as you did. Looks like it was so tight it failed. |
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 11:42 AM | #7 | |
Major
450
Rep 1,358
Posts |
Quote:
I had something very similar happen on track. First time the engine fault symbol came on and had no turbos at all (it felt like). Limped around track then turned car off/on and everything was fine. Second time no engine fault symbol but engine started running really bad and had no turbo boost. Same thing, off/on and everything was fine. I suspect I have a cracked or leaking charge pipe. I didn't see anything but I have a charge pipe sitting in the garage waiting to go one. Sound about right? Haven't gotten around to looking for codes yet. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 12:53 PM | #8 | |
Banned
7905
Rep 11,785
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 01:22 PM | #9 | |
First Lieutenant
37
Rep 381
Posts |
Quote:
BTW, still running OEM charge pipe.
__________________
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 03:47 PM | #11 | |
Cone Cruncher
30
Rep 534
Posts |
Quote:
2. Diagnose: Don't "suspect" things then buy replacement parts to fix things that aren't broken. I looked up my code (30FF), which is boost leak. Went for likely suspects (Charge pipe, BOV), and they didn't fix the underlying issue. Then I tightened up the solenoids per forum advice. Didn't fix it. Then finally just ripped components off the car and found the missing seal. This would have cost me $18 to fix if I had properly diagnosed the problem, and I wouldn't have a BOV that makes it sound like I'm in a F&F movie. 3. Replace broken parts with BMW parts or OEM. Aftermarket parts are really hit or miss and at least to me. Don't get me wrong, I've dumped something like 20k into my car, but if I could do it again, I'd stick to BMW parts if at all possible. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 04:11 PM | #12 | |
Major
450
Rep 1,358
Posts |
Quote:
Agreed though throwing parts at it is never a good approach! What seal was missing on your car? |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 04:33 PM | #13 | |
Cone Cruncher
30
Rep 534
Posts |
Quote:
Part 3. 11617791470 Never installed from factory or some garage messed with me. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 05:51 PM | #14 | |
Captain
137
Rep 718
Posts
Drives: N/A
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Phila, PA
|
Quote:
__________________
2021 F87 HS M2C
2018 F80 SO M3 (SOLD) 2016 F80 AY M3 (SOLD) 2014 F10 M5 LCI (SOLD) 2011 VO 1M (SOLD) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 05:53 PM | #15 | |
Captain
137
Rep 718
Posts
Drives: N/A
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Phila, PA
|
Quote:
__________________
2021 F87 HS M2C
2018 F80 SO M3 (SOLD) 2016 F80 AY M3 (SOLD) 2014 F10 M5 LCI (SOLD) 2011 VO 1M (SOLD) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 09:06 PM | #16 |
Cone Cruncher
30
Rep 534
Posts |
Part 17 is the only 1 time clamp in the picture. I was answering the question of what part was missing on my own car for my own issue.
For Part 17, which is the one that's messed up on OP's car (aftermarket version), you can actually buy a replacement part from BMW that is not a one time use clamp, which will fit around the hose you have right now. It's a nice one that applies even pressure around the clamp. For OP, short term fix listed above. Medium term, get a clamp from an auto parts store. Long term, get the BMW replacement part for item #17. It would allow you to swap back to stock CP and BOV if need be in the future as well. |
Appreciate
0
|
06-28-2013, 10:33 PM | #17 | |
Captain
218
Rep 695
Posts |
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
06-29-2013, 12:50 AM | #18 |
Cone Cruncher
30
Rep 534
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
07-06-2013, 01:40 PM | #19 |
Captain
137
Rep 718
Posts
Drives: N/A
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Phila, PA
|
All,
I got the part from ER today. I replaced the both clamps on the CP. I have 2 questions 1) How do I know if I over-tighted again on the clamp? Can you tell me from the pic below? 2) on the pipe goes into the silicone, I cant push the pipe into the silicone anymore, does it create any problem or turbo lose? I didn't install it at the first time, so I dont remember how it was before.
__________________
2021 F87 HS M2C
2018 F80 SO M3 (SOLD) 2016 F80 AY M3 (SOLD) 2014 F10 M5 LCI (SOLD) 2011 VO 1M (SOLD) |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|