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      03-05-2012, 11:14 PM   #23
takahashi
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Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Thanks for the input Taka. Appreciate it.

I want a track tyre - the only reason I want semi is to get home and back really.

So you think the best one is Dunlop? You think this is superior to the Advan AD08?


As I said semis have better grip, noisy, harder ride and heavier. Dunlop DZ03G are semi slicks. Yoko has semi slicks and they are called A050 (previously Yoko A048 I have used).

Yoko AD08 are sports road tyres. It is not in the same category. In the wet both will be similar and I think DZ03G will be about a second faster but in the dry the DZ03G will be easily 3-4 seconds faster. The equiv to AD08 for Dunlop will be the Dunlop Z1 Star Spec.

Now you say you want to drive from home to track. The DZ03G can be driven on the road and it won't kill the tread or harden the tyres that much. Surely if you repeatedly do that the rubber will be harden before it wears out. And they are not for daily use - it is not good for fuel economy since you are pushing much heavier tyres and also the semi rubber will be harden within a year.

Hang on... you have an 1M??? Is 18" wheel ok? Since the semi like DZ03G are only up to 18". PS2 Sports cup may be in the 19". Sports cup is similar to the DZ03G but better compound for daily drive.

If not, AD08 sports road tyres are good. The PS2 on the 1M is superb and I will use that if I am going on track day.
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      03-06-2012, 02:30 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takahashi View Post
As I said semis have better grip, noisy, harder ride and heavier. Dunlop DZ03G are semi slicks. Yoko has semi slicks and they are called A050 (previously Yoko A048 I have used).

Yoko AD08 are sports road tyres. It is not in the same category. In the wet both will be similar and I think DZ03G will be about a second faster but in the dry the DZ03G will be easily 3-4 seconds faster. The equiv to AD08 for Dunlop will be the Dunlop Z1 Star Spec.

Now you say you want to drive from home to track. The DZ03G can be driven on the road and it won't kill the tread or harden the tyres that much. Surely if you repeatedly do that the rubber will be harden before it wears out. And they are not for daily use - it is not good for fuel economy since you are pushing much heavier tyres and also the semi rubber will be harden within a year.

Hang on... you have an 1M??? Is 18" wheel ok? Since the semi like DZ03G are only up to 18". PS2 Sports cup may be in the 19". Sports cup is similar to the DZ03G but better compound for daily drive.

If not, AD08 sports road tyres are good. The PS2 on the 1M is superb and I will use that if I am going on track day.
Thanks for the info Taka.

Re; 1M. I actually bought a set of 18" OEM E92 M3 wheels & tyres from the US. They were taken off after delivery by the seller and had about 90% thread. They are now down to the wear indicator in the back and getting close at the front. They have been really good on the track actually.

I probably need road-friendly semi-slicks in that case since I have them on for a day or two sometimes before swapping the wheels back to the 19".
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      03-06-2012, 03:48 AM   #25
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I can only speak of past experience.

in terms of road noise. Dunlop Dz03G is better than Yoko A048 which both better than Bridgestone Re55S.

I have driven cars shortly with PS Cup and they are the best.

Semi slick has a constant "woooooooo" noise over say 60-80kmh and for trip over an hour the noise starts to get to my nerve.
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      03-06-2012, 04:03 AM   #26
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You can drive any of them to the track and back no problem.

I've used Dunlop Direzza's, Bridgestone RE55S' and Toyo 888s. I like the Bridgestone's although the Dunlop's were good. I went with 888s on the 911 as they are more forgiving than the RE55s which have a tonne of grip then can go, the 888s are more progressive.

Either way any of them are all good tyres and will do what you are after.
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      03-06-2012, 08:15 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by takahashi View Post
I can only speak of past experience.

in terms of road noise. Dunlop Dz03G is better than Yoko A048 which both better than Bridgestone Re55S.

I have driven cars shortly with PS Cup and they are the best.

Semi slick has a constant "woooooooo" noise over say 60-80kmh and for trip over an hour the noise starts to get to my nerve.
I've driven a few cars with PS Cup but have loved them more for the car than the rubber.

I might have a look at them as an option also.

Thanks Taka.

Don't really mind road noise as they come off pretty quick.
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      03-06-2012, 08:17 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1q2w3e4r View Post
You can drive any of them to the track and back no problem.

I've used Dunlop Direzza's, Bridgestone RE55S' and Toyo 888s. I like the Bridgestone's although the Dunlop's were good. I went with 888s on the 911 as they are more forgiving than the RE55s which have a tonne of grip then can go, the 888s are more progressive.

Either way any of them are all good tyres and will do what you are after.
Thanks mate.

The progressive let go is a very good thing for me. I would sacrifice a bit of grip for that. So you'd pick the 888 from the bunch?

How do you rate the PS Cup?
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      03-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #29
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I haven't used the PS Cup's sorry
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      03-07-2012, 11:42 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
That's a huge difference TimMc. Not a very good review for the KU36!
How was the wear on the R888s?
Twas a very hot day at Lakeside & most guys were running about 1s slower. I hope this means that potentially I could've run ~2.5s quicker than on my KU36s... I expected this kind of gain from a street tyre to an R spec tyre. I think I used up about 1/3 of the 888's tread on Friday.
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      03-08-2012, 06:43 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMc View Post
Twas a very hot day at Lakeside & most guys were running about 1s slower. I hope this means that potentially I could've run ~2.5s quicker than on my KU36s... I expected this kind of gain from a street tyre to an R spec tyre. I think I used up about 1/3 of the 888's tread on Friday.
Sorry for the late reply TimMc. Been away for work.

That sounds really good. How many laps did you get in?
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      03-09-2012, 08:22 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Sorry for the late reply TimMc. Been away for work.

That sounds really good. How many laps did you get in?
No worries. Me too. Just home from Perth tonight. Off to Malaysia tomorrow.

I'd guess I did ~50 laps over ~6 sessions. Could've done more but that felt like more than enough for the day. I might wait until winter before venturing out again.
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      03-09-2012, 08:25 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMc View Post
No worries. Me too. Just home from Perth tonight. Off to Malaysia tomorrow.

I'd guess I did ~50 laps over ~6 sessions. Could've done more but that felt like more than enough for the day. I might wait until winter before venturing out again.
You're travel sounds far better than mine. I had to go to Katherine - not a pretty town! I know a great steak place in Perth if you visit again.

That's a lot of laps mate. I'm leaning toward these now!
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      03-09-2012, 08:55 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
You're travel sounds far better than mine. I had to go to Katherine - not a pretty town! I know a great steak place in Perth if you visit again.

That's a lot of laps mate. I'm leaning toward these now!
Sometimes it's good, sometimes not so good. Tomorrow is good. Langkawi for a week

Let me know about the Perth steak place. I'm due back there in 10 days. Cheers!
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      03-09-2012, 12:59 PM   #35
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R888s are fine for driving to and from the track, except with any semislick to work (grip), you need heat.

And yes, as Takahashi said, they are noisy.

PS Cups are a fantastic tyre, but big money.
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      03-09-2012, 09:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWD View Post
R888s are fine for driving to and from the track, except with any semislick to work (grip), you need heat.

And yes, as Takahashi said, they are noisy.

PS Cups are a fantastic tyre, but big money.
My R888s are noisy, but no worse than the KU36s I had on before.
I'm still unsure as to the pressure I should run them at. I ended up using 30psi hot. Some guys at the track suggested this was good while others where adamant that 25psi was better. When I had my backwards/sideways off I managed to get some grass & dirt wedged into the bead of the RH front. No pressure loss though. This could have been worse if I was running 25psi or lower. Still, I shouldn't be on the grass...
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      03-16-2012, 06:40 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWD View Post
R888s are fine for driving to and from the track, except with any semislick to work (grip), you need heat.

And yes, as Takahashi said, they are noisy.

PS Cups are a fantastic tyre, but big money.
Thanks mate. After a bit of reading I think I'll go with the Advans. I find that I sometimes take a bit longer to get the wheels off and run around for a few days with them.

Have had a few consecutive track days lately and it'll been good to just leave the wheels on.
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      03-16-2012, 06:42 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMc View Post
My R888s are noisy, but no worse than the KU36s I had on before.
I'm still unsure as to the pressure I should run them at. I ended up using 30psi hot. Some guys at the track suggested this was good while others where adamant that 25psi was better. When I had my backwards/sideways off I managed to get some grass & dirt wedged into the bead of the RH front. No pressure loss though. This could have been worse if I was running 25psi or lower. Still, I shouldn't be on the grass...
Being on the grass doesn't help - but it's part of the game I guess.

25psi seems extremely low. I've been running around 32psi hot and that's been really good. Any lower and I'm concerned about the tyres wiggling about underneath.
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      03-16-2012, 06:43 PM   #39
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Sorry for the late responses - have been inundated at work.
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      03-16-2012, 07:27 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Thanks mate. After a bit of reading I think I'll go with the Advans. I find that I sometimes take a bit longer to get the wheels off and run around for a few days with them.

Have had a few consecutive track days lately and it'll been good to just leave the wheels on.
Hey mate I'm the same as you, never in a hurry to change my wheels/tyres. Maybe consider a stud conversion? I did mine this weekend after putting it off for months, saves a lot of time, plus it's safer too. Wish I did it sooner.
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      03-16-2012, 07:54 PM   #41
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Hey mate I'm the same as you, never in a hurry to change my wheels/tyres. Maybe consider a stud conversion? I did mine this weekend after putting it off for months, saves a lot of time, plus it's safer too. Wish I did it sooner.
Mate! You're always one step ahead of the mod curve. I think of oil cooler and you go x2!

Will definitely look at the stud conversion. I don't do the swaps at home or work. Have a pretty good relationship with the tyreshop so they swap it for free and store the wheels too! Will ask them if it'll make it easier for them.

Where did you source them?
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      03-16-2012, 08:13 PM   #42
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Mate! You're always one step ahead of the mod curve. I think of oil cooler and you go x2!

Will definitely look at the stud conversion. I don't do the swaps at home or work. Have a pretty good relationship with the tyreshop so they swap it for free and store the wheels too! Will ask them if it'll make it easier for them.

Where did you source them?
Lol I know it seems a bit over the top but I'm planning to keep the car for the long haul. I considered the dual 20 row extra wide oil cooler because the steptronics seem to run a fair bit hotter and I'm not sure how far away a trans cooler is either.

The stud conversion is probably only useful if you do the changes yourself. However, it's good insurance if you track your car regularly as I don't think the stock lug bolts are up to the task. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612105

My set of lug nuts alone cost me $200 but there are cheaper options available. I went this route because I wanted new wheel locks too.

I'm sure this would make it easier for whoever changes your wheels/tyres but I'm not sure if they would charge you any less.

I picked up a low profile Costco jack a few months ago so I'm set now
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      03-17-2012, 08:01 PM   #43
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Lol I know it seems a bit over the top but I'm planning to keep the car for the long haul. I considered the dual 20 row extra wide oil cooler because the steptronics seem to run a fair bit hotter and I'm not sure how far away a trans cooler is either.

The stud conversion is probably only useful if you do the changes yourself. However, it's good insurance if you track your car regularly as I don't think the stock lug bolts are up to the task. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612105

My set of lug nuts alone cost me $200 but there are cheaper options available. I went this route because I wanted new wheel locks too.

I'm sure this would make it easier for whoever changes your wheels/tyres but I'm not sure if they would charge you any less.

I picked up a low profile Costco jack a few months ago so I'm set now
Sorry for the late reply mate.

Re: conversation: thanks for info. Don't really pay for them to do it, more a favour really. So if they think it's easier to deal with, then I'll swap. I actually really like the clean look of OE lugs. What setup did you end up getting and where? If you don't mind me asking.

Re: oil cooler: I think it's definitely over kill mate. Probably a good idea is to do the Stage 2 kit first and get upgrade the trans cooler too. Then monitor the results and see if you still need it. From JD's last post it sounds like it's going to be $$$ and can be retrofitted anyway. Just my thoughts.
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      03-18-2012, 05:53 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alik01 View Post
Sorry for the late reply mate.

Re: conversation: thanks for info. Don't really pay for them to do it, more a favour really. So if they think it's easier to deal with, then I'll swap. I actually really like the clean look of OE lugs. What setup did you end up getting and where? If you don't mind me asking.

Re: oil cooler: I think it's definitely over kill mate. Probably a good idea is to do the Stage 2 kit first and get upgrade the trans cooler too. Then monitor the results and see if you still need it. From JD's last post it sounds like it's going to be $$$ and can be retrofitted anyway. Just my thoughts.
If you're not paying them I wouldn't worry about it. However, if you track your car hard it's still an option as the OE lugs can break under extreme conditions. I'll send you a PM of the lugs I purchased

Re: oil cooler. I think I agree with you. I think Stage 2 would serve my purpose, however, I've asked JD if I can purchase the extra componentry for my dual 20 row "Extra Wide" Setrab core Stage 3 aka "bad ass set up", later down the track. This would be the best option for me and possibly save me from spending unnecessary money at this point in time.

By the way, sorry for the
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