New/Old 135i owner

Drawn05 · 08-18-2017, 05:20 PM

So I guess the title could be interpreted numerous ways, but I was involved on here years ago, and now have a new (to me) E88 135i.

What are the go to mods these days? Where are people going for install and servicing? Only Advan or anywhere new? Anybody Sutherland Shire way that has a recommendation? I really don't want to go to Auburn ever again if I can help it.

I don't intend to mod this car anywhere near as much as my previous 1 series but do want to get some quick improvements. I cannot spend as much time trawling this website any more so straight up advice would be appreciated.

I see Jb4 is pretty much universally used now. Is this just used on its own or in combo with anything? Is Cobb still used these days?

Are the other BMS parts like charge pipe good quality? Any local distributors?

Was just thinking of tune, charge pipe, and intercooler. Perhaps down pipes but not immediately - are there new must have mods? What is this inlet business - are they simple to do?

Thanks

135i2 · 08-18-2017, 06:29 PM

Same old questions still hold true, how much power do you want and how much do you want to spend. Much has changed.

Drawn05 · 08-18-2017, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 135i2

Same old questions still hold true, how much power do you want and how much do you want to spend. Much has changed.

No specific power objective and dont want to spend as much as I did last time (i.e. way too much).

Basically if I get a JB4 do I need to have a cobb flash underneath it or another brand?

AR design downpipes used to be the standard but cant see if they make them any more. Same with ER design charge pipe, now there are so many choices I am a bit lost.

I previously had a procede (with a faulty harness), Cobb, ER chargepipe with forge DV, HPF intercooler and a range of other things but this pretty much all im thinking of doing now. HPF intercoolers must be like hens teeth these days but perhaps there is something better (more than likely I guess).

How many workshops in Sydney can do the walnut blasting?

135i2 · 08-18-2017, 08:59 PM

Probably pick Justin (JD75) and Marty's (martymil) brain but you do need to know your budget and eventual aims for the car or you'll spend money many times over with direction changes.

Marty might sell you the HPF he has from me. Best street IC or a Wagner evo comp 2. The JDT monster IC we have will mean you'll never buy another IC..ever for N54, but expensive.

MHD and no JB4 is the way to go if you are not fiddling with boost levels with OTS maps or one of the various tuners offerings. You will get great service out of the latest JB4 however if you put the time and money in to get it tuned as well as Marty's car.

Marty has also developed a kick arse charge pipe with twin BOV's that will ensure no boost spikes.

No need to spend big on AR's. Some BMR or VRSF dumps will do the same.

RB silicon inlets are the go to factory airbox is fine or Afe stage 2.

Some PR coils are an expensive but magic upgrade.

Put an LSD in it too.

And on, and on...

DR-JEKL · 08-18-2017, 09:55 PM

Hey Steve finally got another one huh!

MHD is the standard these days, its cheap and has a heap of unique features and works in the same principle as the cobb AP except you can use an android device to flash the car instead of a AP (phone tablet etc)

wagner FMIC's are the standard these days or the cheaper VRSF (knowing you go for the wagner from schmiedmann)

AR went out of business a few years ago, but have the best fitting DP's and are still sought after. 90% of guys use VRSF DP's these days.

As for inlets the hype has died down a tad but they still make more power but only marginal improvements on oem turbos. IMO RB inlets are probably the best in terms of fitment but many guys have stated VTT are... (I have a set BNIB for sale - I'll prolly go ST eventually..)

CP be wary of the cheap chinese ones, you'll have boost leak and shonky fitment. VRSF CP's were also pretty shit, but I heard they recently upgraded their design so you no longer have to use their smaller o ring gasket it uses a conventional oem o ring. ER would be the safest option here for that!

Did you sell your 540i?

Get on the BMW 1M, 135i and 335i Australia FB page!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1Man...03051693797263

As for what shop to use Pete sold Advan to Adam, Adam is a good bloke but I havent been to advan for a few years now. A lot of guys are going to hills eurohaus @ castle hill.

asiflicious · 08-18-2017, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drawn05

So I guess the title could be interpreted numerous ways, but I was involved on here years ago, and now have a new (to me) E88 135i.

What are the go to mods these days? Where are people going for install and servicing? Only Advan or anywhere new? Anybody Sutherland Shire way that has a recommendation? I really don't want to go to Auburn ever again if I can help it.

I don't intend to mod this car anywhere near as much as my previous 1 series but do want to get some quick improvements. I cannot spend as much time trawling this website any more so straight up advice would be appreciated.

I see Jb4 is pretty much universally used now. Is this just used on its own or in combo with anything? Is Cobb still used these days?

Are the other BMS parts like charge pipe good quality? Any local distributors?

Was just thinking of tune, charge pipe, and intercooler. Perhaps down pipes but not immediately - are there new must have mods? What is this inlet business - are they simple to do?

Thanks

MHD flash would be a better option for your power goals.

Drawn05 · 08-18-2017, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Hey Steve finally got another one huh!

MHD is the standard these days, its cheap and has a heap of unique features and works in the same principle as the cobb AP except you can use an android device to flash the car instead of a AP (phone tablet etc)

wagner FMIC's are the standard these days or the cheaper VRSF (knowing you go for the wagner from schmiedmann)

AR went out of business a few years ago, but have the best fitting DP's and are still sought after. 90% of guys use VRSF DP's these days.

As for inlets the hype has died down a tad but they still make more power but only marginal improvements on oem turbos. IMO RB inlets are probably the best in terms of fitment but many guys have stated VTT are... (I have a set BNIB for sale - I'll prolly go ST eventually..)

CP be wary of the cheap chinese ones, you'll have boost leak and shonky fitment. VRSF CP's were also pretty shit, but I heard they recently upgraded their design so you no longer have to use their smaller o ring gasket it uses a conventional oem o ring. ER would be the safest option here for that!

Did you sell your 540i?

Get on the BMW 1M, 135i and 335i Australia FB page!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1Man...03051693797263

As for what shop to use Pete sold Advan to Adam, Adam is a good bloke but I havent been to advan for a few years now. A lot of guys are going to hills eurohaus @ castle hill.

Hi Shane, hows the fam?

Yes, they hit the price I have been willing to pay to get back into one (with the wife's blessing of course). Vert this time and it will just be a cruiser.

Still have the 540i but have listed it for sale. Its been a hoot but gulps fuel and I'm ready to move on.

Is there a website for MHD? I was thinking of just getting a JB4 but flash tunes always seemed the smarter bet.

How much would these inlets cost to have installed? Probably too much cost/effort for me this time round.

Unfortunately I only facebook for about 9 months back in 2009. Turned off my account and never looked back -cant say I miss it.

Will check out Hills eurohaus. Cheers for the info

xQx · 08-18-2017, 11:44 PM

Such a common question - I'll admit, I'm copy & pasting from a previous response.

As a fellow E88 owner, you've got one of the worst engine bays to work with, and some of the stuff that is claimed to fit, doesn't. Advan (certainly going by these forums) is the leader in mods in Australia for our cars, but for what you're about to do, it's very tried and tested and any BMW specialist tuner will have done it many times before.

Find an aftermarket BMW shop close by who know 135i's. If you don't have one, go to Advan.

EDIT: also talk to JD75 on these forums for your parts.

I've just done inlets and I wouldn't call them hype. BUT, they are a PITA to install - or if you get a shop to do it you pay more for install than you do the part. They are the 'last piece' of the airflow restrictions, and doing them makes a big difference. But it's not all good. First, the gains are in spool-up speed and mid-range power - not top-range power as you can easily max-out your turbos without them. Also, it makes any wastegate rattle you have much louder and noticeably increases intake noise. ... Also, they did nothing for me, because I was running E25 before i had them, and by installing them I suddenly maxed out my HPFP/LPFP capability and could only run pure PULP. So, the good news is I get E25 performance out of PULP, the bad news is I now need to upgrade my LPFP and replace my HPFP.

But for mods, here's the list:

From intake to exhaust:
DCI (arguable if this actually gives you gains on stock turbos, but it's $150 and does help with spool-up time)
Silicone Inlets (usually a stage 2 mod due to cost & difficulty to install)
Silicone Outlets (usually a stage 2 mod due to cost & difficulty to install)
Intercooler (OEM is restrictive)
Charge Pipe + BOVs (OEM is prone to braking)
Downpipe (OEM is restrictive)

For a tune, go MHD, or get a second hand JB4 v5 ISO from these forums. The JB4 is safer (though MHD would dispute this), has greater on-the-fly customization and flexibility and is _very nice to have_ if you ever go for meth or E85. They are also generally very available on the second hand market for around $500.

Either way, you're going to need an android tablet and an OTG + K-Line cable.

Everyone complains about sloppy handling, which is generally fixed by Rear Subframe Bushes (Whiteline inserts are cheap and easy, Whiteline bushes are a little more expensive, a little more difficult but might not last forever, OEM M3 RSFB cost $660 to have a shop install because of what a PITA they are).

Next for handling people consider front M3 control arms, rear guide rods and rear toe arms.

Once you've done all that, you'll be chomping at the bit to install a LSD, and upgrading fuel pumps or installing a WMI (meth) kit.

Drawn05 · 08-19-2017, 12:36 AM

How much did you get charged for the inlet install? I take it you got it done at advan?

Is there much difference between hills and advan re: pricing?

DR-JEKL · 08-19-2017, 01:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drawn05

Hi Shane, hows the fam?

Yes, they hit the price I have been willing to pay to get back into one (with the wife's blessing of course). Vert this time and it will just be a cruiser.

Still have the 540i but have listed it for sale. Its been a hoot but gulps fuel and I'm ready to move on.

Is there a website for MHD? I was thinking of just getting a JB4 but flash tunes always seemed the smarter bet.

How much would these inlets cost to have installed? Probably too much cost/effort for me this time round.

Unfortunately I only facebook for about 9 months back in 2009. Turned off my account and never looked back -cant say I miss it.

Will check out Hills eurohaus. Cheers for the info

All good Steve! my daughter will be 2 in Nov time flies! Obviously your eldest will be at school soon!

search MHD on youtube there will be a tonne of vids to watch. You go to google play store and buy the app and use your android phone/tbalet to flash the car (need to by an OTG and KDCAN cable-pretty sure you'd still have the coding cable?) I'm just about to go with MHD the cobb custom map I have is fine, but Ive misplaced my AP and the MHD has a lot more features so I'm going to get a few custom maps through motiv (the OTS maps from MHD are supposedly pretty good)

Like your old 135i you'll remember that these things love a splash of E85. FMIC, upgraded DV's/BOV, stage 2 LPFP DP's would get you 270-300rwkw

G/L with the sale of the 540i did you ever get it back on the dyno after the advan dyno day? (by memory you were going to get it tuned and possibly meth?)

inlets are approx $500 to install with modded dent removed CP from eurohaus by memory (pretty big job like DP's)

Youd be best to get FMIC DP's, LPFP and inlets done in one hit IMO and then get a custom tune for 98-E40/E60.

Dont worry about the intake (oem is proven to flow well above 300rwkw) pre 08 CP's are much sturdier although DV's can leak so its common to upgrade them to the turbosmart DV's.

james1986_135i · 08-19-2017, 01:55 AM

xQx how much power are you making with the inlets and outlets? just curious as I am installing these myself and majority of the parts I am installing are similar.

Cheers

woosh · 08-19-2017, 10:16 PM

BMS Autohaus in CBD if you want something closer than Hills Eurohaus.

xQx · 08-20-2017, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drawn05

How much did you get charged for the inlet install? I take it you got it done at advan?

Is there much difference between hills and advan re: pricing?

I'm actually in QLD, so I had a shop in Brisbane install them. I had them both supply and install and the total came to $1,200. The going rate for install seems to be around $500 - $660.

Quote:

Originally Posted by james1986_135i

xQx how much power are you making with the inlets and outlets? just curious as I am installing these myself and majority of the parts I am installing are similar.

Cheers

My best guess is around 410rwhp - 415rwhp

I haven't finished modding so I haven't bothered paying the money to go an spend time on a dyno, so everything I've got is with virtualdyno. (Which a quick google will tell you can't be trusted.)

Here's my best run pre-inlets (E35 JB4 Map 5) and my best run post-inlets (MHD E25 OTS Flash-only tune).

My limitation now is the fuelling system.

EDIT: sorry, didn't explain the dyno. The red line was the best run I had been able to do prior to inlets, It's E35 on JB4 map 5 with the RACE backend flash. The blue line is post install, which is E25 with the MHD E25 OTS map.

UR25IO · 08-23-2017, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drawn05

How much did you get charged for the inlet install? I take it you got it done at advan?

Is there much difference between hills and advan re: pricing?

Hey Drawn05,

I think the best cost effective way is to go MHD. it would give you a smoother power delivery (like COBB) you also have the option to run E85 mixed maps.

Do your down pipes and charge pipe. Ive also heard guys are still running stock FMIC- Personally I think its ok to run stock FMIC with decent power, good for short sprints and squirts. Anything more (track days, roll racing, group drives) aftermarket FMIC.

Get stage 2 LPFP if you're planning to run e85 mixed

A lot of Advan customer have moved on. I now use HillsEuroHaus same with a few other owners.

Any bolt on parts would recommend VRSF bang for buck.

martymil · 08-23-2017, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UR25IO

A lot of Advan customer have moved on. I now use HillsEuroHaus same with a few other owners.

Sorry dude but what a dumb statement

Advan is busier and has a much faster turn over.

If anything advan has got more customers than ever before.

Drawn05 · 08-23-2017, 02:46 AM

Definitely going with MHD. Picked a $100 tablet and will try flashing on the weekend.

Is a battery booster/charger needed for the initial read/write?

Also, anyone had their dp's installed at Hills? What did they charge? I won't be looking to have some installed for a month or two but this will definitely be on the cards

xQx · 08-23-2017, 04:09 AM

the official guides point you toward a very expensive battery charger. My experience is if you pull the fuel pump fuse before you start, almost any battery charger will be good enough to keep you above the required voltage.

but the initial flash takes 40 minutes, so I wouldn't risk it without a charger.

Drawn05 · 08-23-2017, 05:08 AM

Wow, 40 minutes? will definitely use a charger then.

PG · 08-23-2017, 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Drawn05

Also, anyone had their dp's installed at Hills? What did they charge? I won't be looking to have some installed for a month or two but this will definitely be on the cards

from memory they charged me about $450 for install. I had side skirts installed, diff fluid and brake fluid changed for 670 overall that time.

For other things they charge 450 for VC gasket change, 350 for OFHG gasket change including the parts.
500 for serpentine belt and pulleys including parts.
I think they also do walnut blasting for 400 or 500

Pretty reasonable prices for a European car, and they have always done the job within the same day and are great to chat with.

I'm not part of their business, but they basically have done some awesome favours for me. When my ac compressor died they fixed it the morning I drove in, after calling them that morning. When my downpipes went on, they came they went out of their way to get it done on a Saturday afternoon before I had to drive back to the country.

totti84 · 08-23-2017, 05:16 PM

PM sent Drawn05

Griffster · 08-23-2017, 09:39 PM

I've recently decided to fix a number of issues with my 135i, so my question is in line with this thread.

What are the trends these days wrt getting an LSD and getting traction to the ground? I still have the stock suspension and it's a bit of a joke really.

xQx · 08-24-2017, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Griffster

I've recently decided to fix a number of issues with my 135i, so my question is in line with this thread.

What are the trends these days wrt getting an LSD and getting traction to the ground? I still have the stock suspension and it's a bit of a joke really.

Next week (hopefully - waiting for stock) I've got a MFactory Clutch type Diff going in. My car is 100% stock suspension at the moment, so I'll be able to tell you what difference it makes.

The general consensus is it makes a big difference

The helical diffs (MFactory or Wavetrac) are very popular due to their low noise, low maintenance and low cost, and I haven't heard anyone say bad things about them on the forums.

However, I was told by my local tuning shop they'd found the helicals could sometimes rapidly and unpredictably move the torque from one side to the other when driving at the limit in a car with 400rwhp.

... this seemed like exactly the behaviour I was trying to avoid by getting a LSD, hence why I opted for an old-fashioned clutch-type diff.

The MFactory (clutch or helical) diff will set you back about $1,500; and if you get a shop to do install, that's about $300 - $500.

08-18-2017, 05:20 PM	#1
Drawn05 Captain 67 Rep 853 Posts Drives: Yes Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Left iTrader: (0)	New/Old 135i owner - What is the deal these days? So I guess the title could be interpreted numerous ways, but I was involved on here years ago, and now have a new (to me) E88 135i. What are the go to mods these days? Where are people going for install and servicing? Only Advan or anywhere new? Anybody Sutherland Shire way that has a recommendation? I really don't want to go to Auburn ever again if I can help it. I don't intend to mod this car anywhere near as much as my previous 1 series but do want to get some quick improvements. I cannot spend as much time trawling this website any more so straight up advice would be appreciated. I see Jb4 is pretty much universally used now. Is this just used on its own or in combo with anything? Is Cobb still used these days? Are the other BMS parts like charge pipe good quality? Any local distributors? Was just thinking of tune, charge pipe, and intercooler. Perhaps down pipes but not immediately - are there new must have mods? What is this inlet business - are they simple to do? Thanks
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08-18-2017, 06:29 PM	#2
135i2 Lieutenant 106 Rep 419 Posts Drives: Join Date: Oct 2008 iTrader: (0)	Same old questions still hold true, how much power do you want and how much do you want to spend. Much has changed. __________________ 135i - RHD Bottom Mount Single Turbo - GTX3584RS
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08-18-2017, 08:59 PM	#4
135i2 Lieutenant 106 Rep 419 Posts Drives: Join Date: Oct 2008 iTrader: (0)	Probably pick Justin (JD75) and Marty's (martymil) brain but you do need to know your budget and eventual aims for the car or you'll spend money many times over with direction changes. Marty might sell you the HPF he has from me. Best street IC or a Wagner evo comp 2. The JDT monster IC we have will mean you'll never buy another IC..ever for N54, but expensive. MHD and no JB4 is the way to go if you are not fiddling with boost levels with OTS maps or one of the various tuners offerings. You will get great service out of the latest JB4 however if you put the time and money in to get it tuned as well as Marty's car. Marty has also developed a kick arse charge pipe with twin BOV's that will ensure no boost spikes. No need to spend big on AR's. Some BMR or VRSF dumps will do the same. RB silicon inlets are the go to factory airbox is fine or Afe stage 2. Some PR coils are an expensive but magic upgrade. Put an LSD in it too. And on, and on... __________________ 135i - RHD Bottom Mount Single Turbo - GTX3584RS
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08-18-2017, 09:55 PM	#5
DR-JEKL Major General 898 Rep 6,285 Posts Drives: Space Grey E92 335i 6MT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Newcastle Ozstraylia iTrader: (3)	Hey Steve finally got another one huh! MHD is the standard these days, its cheap and has a heap of unique features and works in the same principle as the cobb AP except you can use an android device to flash the car instead of a AP (phone tablet etc) wagner FMIC's are the standard these days or the cheaper VRSF (knowing you go for the wagner from schmiedmann) AR went out of business a few years ago, but have the best fitting DP's and are still sought after. 90% of guys use VRSF DP's these days. As for inlets the hype has died down a tad but they still make more power but only marginal improvements on oem turbos. IMO RB inlets are probably the best in terms of fitment but many guys have stated VTT are... (I have a set BNIB for sale - I'll prolly go ST eventually..) CP be wary of the cheap chinese ones, you'll have boost leak and shonky fitment. VRSF CP's were also pretty shit, but I heard they recently upgraded their design so you no longer have to use their smaller o ring gasket it uses a conventional oem o ring. ER would be the safest option here for that! Did you sell your 540i? Get on the BMW 1M, 135i and 335i Australia FB page! https://www.facebook.com/groups/1Man...03051693797263 As for what shop to use Pete sold Advan to Adam, Adam is a good bloke but I havent been to advan for a few years now. A lot of guys are going to hills eurohaus @ castle hill.
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08-18-2017, 11:44 PM	#8
xQx General 903 Rep 1,003 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i (E88 N54 6AT) Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Sunshine Coast QLD Australia iTrader: (0)	Such a common question - I'll admit, I'm copy & pasting from a previous response. As a fellow E88 owner, you've got one of the worst engine bays to work with, and some of the stuff that is claimed to fit, doesn't. Advan (certainly going by these forums) is the leader in mods in Australia for our cars, but for what you're about to do, it's very tried and tested and any BMW specialist tuner will have done it many times before. Find an aftermarket BMW shop close by who know 135i's. If you don't have one, go to Advan. EDIT: also talk to JD75 on these forums for your parts. I've just done inlets and I wouldn't call them hype. BUT, they are a PITA to install - or if you get a shop to do it you pay more for install than you do the part. They are the 'last piece' of the airflow restrictions, and doing them makes a big difference. But it's not all good. First, the gains are in spool-up speed and mid-range power - not top-range power as you can easily max-out your turbos without them. Also, it makes any wastegate rattle you have much louder and noticeably increases intake noise. ... Also, they did nothing for me, because I was running E25 before i had them, and by installing them I suddenly maxed out my HPFP/LPFP capability and could only run pure PULP. So, the good news is I get E25 performance out of PULP, the bad news is I now need to upgrade my LPFP and replace my HPFP. But for mods, here's the list: From intake to exhaust: DCI (arguable if this actually gives you gains on stock turbos, but it's $150 and does help with spool-up time) Silicone Inlets (usually a stage 2 mod due to cost & difficulty to install) Silicone Outlets (usually a stage 2 mod due to cost & difficulty to install) Intercooler (OEM is restrictive) Charge Pipe + BOVs (OEM is prone to braking) Downpipe (OEM is restrictive) For a tune, go MHD, or get a second hand JB4 v5 ISO from these forums. The JB4 is safer (though MHD would dispute this), has greater on-the-fly customization and flexibility and is _very nice to have_ if you ever go for meth or E85. They are also generally very available on the second hand market for around $500. Either way, you're going to need an android tablet and an OTG + K-Line cable. Everyone complains about sloppy handling, which is generally fixed by Rear Subframe Bushes (Whiteline inserts are cheap and easy, Whiteline bushes are a little more expensive, a little more difficult but might not last forever, OEM M3 RSFB cost $660 to have a shop install because of what a PITA they are). Next for handling people consider front M3 control arms, rear guide rods and rear toe arms. Once you've done all that, you'll be chomping at the bit to install a LSD, and upgrading fuel pumps or installing a WMI (meth) kit.
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08-19-2017, 12:36 AM	#9
Drawn05 Captain 67 Rep 853 Posts Drives: Yes Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Left iTrader: (0)	How much did you get charged for the inlet install? I take it you got it done at advan? Is there much difference between hills and advan re: pricing?
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08-19-2017, 01:55 AM	#11
james1986_135i Enlisted Member 7 Rep 30 Posts Drives: bmw 135i Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Adelaide iTrader: (0)	xQx how much power are you making with the inlets and outlets? just curious as I am installing these myself and majority of the parts I am installing are similar. Cheers
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08-19-2017, 10:16 PM	#12
woosh Colonel 212 Rep 2,938 Posts Drives: rs Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: bne iTrader: (0)	BMS Autohaus in CBD if you want something closer than Hills Eurohaus.
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08-23-2017, 02:46 AM	#16
Drawn05 Captain 67 Rep 853 Posts Drives: Yes Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Left iTrader: (0)	Definitely going with MHD. Picked a $100 tablet and will try flashing on the weekend. Is a battery booster/charger needed for the initial read/write? Also, anyone had their dp's installed at Hills? What did they charge? I won't be looking to have some installed for a month or two but this will definitely be on the cards Last edited by Drawn05; 08-23-2017 at 02:52 AM..
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08-23-2017, 04:09 AM	#17
xQx General 903 Rep 1,003 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 135i (E88 N54 6AT) Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Sunshine Coast QLD Australia iTrader: (0)	the official guides point you toward a very expensive battery charger. My experience is if you pull the fuel pump fuse before you start, almost any battery charger will be good enough to keep you above the required voltage. but the initial flash takes 40 minutes, so I wouldn't risk it without a charger.
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08-23-2017, 05:08 AM	#18
Drawn05 Captain 67 Rep 853 Posts Drives: Yes Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Left iTrader: (0)	Wow, 40 minutes? will definitely use a charger then.
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08-23-2017, 05:16 PM	#20
totti84 Major 112 Rep 1,140 Posts Drives: N54 135i 6MT Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (5) Garage List 2009 BMW 135i M Sport [0.00]	PM sent Drawn05
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08-23-2017, 09:39 PM	#21
Griffster Private 13 Rep 85 Posts Drives: 135i Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Sydney, Australia iTrader: (0)	I've recently decided to fix a number of issues with my 135i, so my question is in line with this thread. What are the trends these days wrt getting an LSD and getting traction to the ground? I still have the stock suspension and it's a bit of a joke really.
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