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      07-05-2015, 02:07 PM   #1
tuphdc
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how to get exhaust off? rusted bolts...

Hi, I bought the SuperSprint section 1 to put on the my car...and when I finally get under my car to start working on it, I am finding the exhaust manifold bolts are rusted tight where it attaches to the rest of the exhaust.

How do I approach this? I'm assuming I can cut them off and get replacement bolts and gasket....this project is turning out to be bigger than I thought it would
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      07-05-2015, 03:00 PM   #2
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PB blaster and let it soak for a half hour, then try gently with a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, try heat.
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      07-05-2015, 03:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
PB blaster and let it soak for a half hour, then try gently with a breaker bar. If that doesn't work, try heat.
Use some kind of oil like WD40 or Liquid Wrench or BP Blaster.Wurth's RostOff - would be best. I would let it soak... the longer the better over a day would be ideal with multiple applications. THEN use some heat on the rusted copper nuts... AND then try loosening them (SLOWLY)an 1/8(very little) back and forth motion until they nuts start to come off. Don't be affraid to loosen then tighten back and forth - until they come off.

Probably in the end you will snap the stud/bolt in half. That will require more heat(acetylene torch) and BFH(hammer) and punch to remove whats left. IF the studs in the cylinder head are what you are trying to loosen... this can be a huge PITA bc you will need to drill out the broken studs with an easyout. You might want to let a pro do this job.

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      07-05-2015, 03:41 PM   #4
tuphdc
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Ok thanks fellas. I will the PB blaster a shot, and if I cant get them off I'll just send the mid pipes back. I am willing to accept that the project isn't for me.

The threads on the bolt look pretty bad, I'm certain I'll just have to replace it.

Do you know if the gasket between the flanges is reusable? It didn't even occur to me to order one. It would be this one:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-128...npipe/ES39474/
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      07-05-2015, 03:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuphdc View Post

Do you know if the gasket between the flanges is reusable?
Generally exhaust gaskets should be replaced.
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      07-05-2015, 04:05 PM   #6
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Are you installing those onto the stock headers & down-pipes? The attachment bolts are pressed into the stock header section. If they break, you have to drill them out and use other bolts.

I wouldn't install that section behind stock headers...send it back and get headers; that's where you'll get the biggest improvement...trust me.
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      07-05-2015, 04:13 PM   #7
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Here is a trick I have used on really rusted bolts. Ones that still don't want to com off with penetrating oil and heat, or a hi possibility of breaking. I use the multiple shots of penetrating oil, heat on the nut( or surrounding area of the bolt), then I hold some dry ice on the bolt. This works like a real charm. The nut or surrounding area expanded with the heat the bolt contracted with the dry ice.
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      07-05-2015, 04:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksport View Post
Are you installing those onto the stock headers & down-pipes? The attachment bolts are pressed into the stock header section. If they break, you have to drill them out and use other bolts.

I wouldn't install that section behind stock headers...send it back and get headers; that's where you'll get the biggest improvement...trust me.
You're right, but headers are expensive + require messing with the ECU...I just wanted to do another bolt on mod.

I was having trouble getting 7 off of 5.

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      07-05-2015, 09:20 PM   #9
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Had that snap on me when changing my stock headers to catless. if it snaps, just cut the bolts and replace it. I think i ordered OEM replacement studs that can be pressed in along with new nuts but i havent bothered with it since i dont plan on reinstalling the stock headers.
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      07-09-2015, 10:30 AM   #10
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Good luck with this, post a mini review when you're done!
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      07-14-2015, 08:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuphdc View Post
Ok thanks fellas. I will the PB blaster a shot, and if I cant get them off I'll just send the mid pipes back. I am willing to accept that the project isn't for me.

The threads on the bolt look pretty bad, I'm certain I'll just have to replace it.

Do you know if the gasket between the flanges is reusable? It didn't even occur to me to order one. It would be this one:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-128...npipe/ES39474/
Don't give up. This is a fairly easy project, and you should not have any problems. Even in the worst case, you could drill the bolt out. But, more than likely, any of the good suggestions you received here should work like a charm.

I really liked the dry ice suggestion, but I seriously doubt that penetrating oil and heat will not do the trick. Just get a propane plumber's torch at Home Depot or Lowe's. This is a good tool to have around to heat up rusted bolts and nuts.

Now, keep in mind that things may take longer than you expect. Be prepared to let your car sit while you regroup, get parts, etc. Don't start on a Sunday afternoon if you need to drive the car to an important meeting on Monday morning. Better yet, buy the new bolts ahead of time, and just plan to replace them. That's what I have done.

I am really interested to hear an update on your project. I bought the same Super Sprint secondary cat-delete pipes a while ago, when they were on sale with free shipping. They have been sitting in my shop next to the Magnaflow exhaust system I bought. I also have the bolts, nuts, and new gaskets waiting. I plan to install both of these in the winter months, when I get bored. In the mean time, I am enjoying driving my car in the short U.P. summer.

Good luck!
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      07-14-2015, 08:05 AM   #12
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2 mins with torches and they come right off.

Just go to any muffler shop, probably charge you $50 to do it.
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      07-20-2015, 09:20 AM   #13
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Also if You have a hard time finding dry ice You can use the aerosol compressed air spray (like what You would use to clean electronics) on the bolt as You would dry ice.Definitely not as good as dry ice. Another trick that I have used when I don't have access to a press or similar is to put the studs in Your freezer overnight ,heat the flanges with a torch and then quickly insert the studs. I have restored all kinds of equipment and PB Blaster is My favorite.
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      07-20-2015, 09:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof.2 View Post
Also if You have a hard time finding dry ice You can use the aerosol compressed air spray (like what You would use to clean electronics) on the bolt as You would dry ice.Definitely not as good as dry ice. Another trick that I have used when I don't have access to a press or similar is to put the studs in Your freezer overnight ,heat the flanges with a torch and then quickly insert the studs. I have restored all kinds of equipment and PB Blaster is My favorite.
Almost every Walmart carries dry ice. It is kept up front by the registers. It works great on brake bleeders too, and you know your not going to hurt a rubber seal.
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      07-22-2015, 02:51 PM   #15
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so I just got back from shop to have these put on....aaannnnddd it sounds nice, maybe 20% louder over the PE exhaust alone. But I also have a check engine light now.

I disconnected the battery and I'm hoping that will help.... My only other "mod" is the injen intake and that's never been an issue.
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      07-24-2015, 02:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuphdc View Post
so I just got back from shop to have these put on....aaannnnddd it sounds nice, maybe 20% louder over the PE exhaust alone. But I also have a check engine light now.

I disconnected the battery and I'm hoping that will help.... My only other "mod" is the injen intake and that's never been an issue.
Pull the codes. There is nothing in section 1 that is capable of triggering a CEL. Sounds like the shop either bonked something they shouldn't have, or this is an unrelated case of bad timing.
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      07-24-2015, 06:15 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by TheSt|G View Post
Pull the codes. There is nothing in section 1 that is capable of triggering a CEL. Sounds like the shop either bonked something they shouldn't have, or this is an unrelated case of bad timing.
Thanks St|g, its code P0050 so I guess I need a new o2. Do you think it's possible to clean the original one?
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      07-27-2015, 08:52 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuphdc View Post
Thanks St|g, its code P0050 so I guess I need a new o2. Do you think it's possible to clean the original one?
02 sensors are remarkably fragile. You will need to replace it.
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