Installing coilovers - need help

[jmz135]

Hey guys - in the process of installing some ST coilovers and need help on one part. On the rear we removed the stock suspension and have installed the coilovers and now we are trying to re-feed the lug bolt in that connects the brake hub to the suspension (lower control arm?) arm. The problem is that no matter how hard we try we cannot get them to line up, so the bolt only goes in halfway and hits the wall on the other side. We've tried several different heights but can't get the bolt to go back in.

Any tips on how to get the suspension arm and brake to line up to replace the lug bolt?

[brocklanders]

I had the same problem, however for some reason the first side I did was no problem. The other side however gave me a hell of a time, you just need to wiggle and coarse it in. As I have experienced it can be a pain, I had gotten pissed, and almost gave up, but it will go.

[Pig Farmer]

It sometimes helps to move the jack to another jacking point, or put a 2x4 between the jack and the camber link that is long enough so that you have leverage to rock the camber link while inserting the bolt. It go without saying, be carefully!

[fboutlaw]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...30&hg=33&fg=30

Having issues around #8 on this page? I'm hoping you have the rear on stands and have your jack free. Use it to raise the the lower control arm and keep hammering on the bolt with a mallet until you get everything to line up and it goes through.

If you're still struggling tomorrow, get in touch. I'm in the south bay.

[jmz135]

Hey guys, thanks for the tips and offer to help. We did end up finally getting it to fit after using 2 jacks on the control arm and brake. Then we used a flat head to pry the bushing back temporarily while we fit the bolt in. It's certainly a bitch, but the second one was much easier..

I appreciate the offer to help fboutlaw, I'm actually in south bay as well :-)

[jmz135]

One more question for you guys. I did finish the install last night, but noticed with the angle the strut sits at on the front wheels, only 2 of the 3 screws that connect the strut to the frame could be tightened. The same thing happened on both the left and the right sides.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? I tried using a jack to hold up the strut at a different angle but no luck...

Pic of what I'm talking about below - in the pic I show no screw -but the problem is that when I put it in the OEM strut mount isn't holding the screw still for me to tighten it.


It seemed secure enough, and between the 2 tightened screws and the weight of the car I'm trying to figure out if it's a big deal. I did take it for a drive and it seemed fine...

[fboutlaw]

Do NOT drive the car like that. Loosen the strut tower brace. Get all 3 screws up. Tighten to 25 lb/ft per bolt by hand. Any more and you run the risk of fouling threads and shearing the bolts.

Then, use a bunch of washers and get that strut tower bar jacked up and out of the way. Torque it down using the washers as spacers. Probably 35lb/ft on that one.

You're taking on very serious risk, because either the top of your strut tower is tilted, and it's going to start shifting around on you possibly breaking the bolts, or the bolt piece is fouled and it's not actually tight. In either case, that's a bad situation.

You can run the car without the strut tower braces, but don't operate it without all 3 of the strut bolts tightened.

Originally Posted by jmz135

One more question for you guys. I did finish the install last night, but noticed with the angle the strut sits at on the front wheels, only 2 of the 3 screws that connect the strut to the frame could be tightened. The same thing happened on both the left and the right sides.

Has anyone else experienced this issue? I tried using a jack to hold up the strut at a different angle but no luck...

Pic of what I'm talking about below - in the pic I show no screw -but the problem is that when I put it in the OEM strut mount isn't holding the screw still for me to tighten it.


It seemed secure enough, and between the 2 tightened screws and the weight of the car I'm trying to figure out if it's a big deal. I did take it for a drive and it seemed fine...

[jmz135]

Originally Posted by fboutlaw

Do NOT drive the car like that. Loosen the strut tower brace. Get all 3 screws up. Tighten to 25 lb/ft per bolt by hand. Any more and you run the risk of fouling threads and shearing the bolts.

Then, use a bunch of washers and get that strut tower bar jacked up and out of the way. Torque it down using the washers as spacers. Probably 35lb/ft on that one.

You're taking on very serious risk, because either the top of your strut tower is tilted, and it's going to start shifting around on you possibly breaking the bolts, or the bolt piece is fouled and it's not actually tight. In either case, that's a bad situation.

You can run the car without the strut tower braces, but don't operate it without all 3 of the strut bolts tightened.

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to try to fix it - I'm not sure how to keep the bolt up there while tightening it but I will try to figure it out, it doesnt seem like it's in a reachable position. When I was trying it before they just kept falling and spinning when I tried to tighten them.

[jmz135]

Originally Posted by ///JAAM

Are you saying that the stud you tighten the nut on came out of the mount?? The mount is sitting flush with the strut tower and the alignment pins are lined up?
That is a press fit and should not come out. I doubt you will be able to get it to hold still while you tighten it.

There are 3 screws that go through the [strut tower brace?] pointing upward - as you lift the shock upward you have to feed those 3 screws through the 3 holes in the car frame mounting point. Those 3 screws will not stay in the brace for me, they keep coming loose. It's difficult enough to get them through the holes without them falling out, nevermind actually tighten them.

I'm not sure if I am describing this accurately or not, I don't know the name for all the pieces - but the part of the stock suspension you re-use and attach to the shock is the part that has the screws pre-threaded through, but have them keep falling out as I raise it up.

[jmz135]

Originally Posted by ///JAAM

So the 3 studs sticking up through into the engine bay are falling out individually?? That is no suppose to happen. http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E88-135...ES111/ES10791/
See how they are press fit into the mount.

Thanks for the picture - yes that is exactly what I'm talking about. About half of those screws/studs immediately fell out when I detached the stock suspension :-\

On one side, 2 out of 3 fell out, on the other side 1.

[3002 tii]

Those studs should not come apart but unfortunately they do - usually happens when you overtorque the studs. Sounds like you need to replace the top hat. This guy happens to be selling a pair:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1049111

OR it'd be a good excuse to pick up camber plates which would require you to punch those studs out, haha.

[dtla1]

Mine all fell out when i did my suspension too.

Patience was key here. I figured out which one could go in first (which one would be the one that held the best in the press fit slot) and just put one in and get the nut on a few turns, not tight whatsoever. Then just massaged the other two blindly into place by hand. I used a hydraulic jack to raise and lower the whole assembly at the same time.

It's a pain but definitely possible.

[jmz135]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

Those studs should not come apart but unfortunately they do - usually happens when you overtorque the studs. Sounds like you need to replace the top hat. This guy happens to be selling a pair:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1049111

OR it'd be a good excuse to pick up camber plates which would require you to punch those studs out, haha.

Originally Posted by ///JAAM

I would look at replacing them. I know that is a lot of work, but you will never be able to tighten them.

Thanks both of you for the explanation. I didn't even realize they weren't supposed to come out. I was getting really frustrated trying to feed them in and tighten them and couldn't understand how everyone else did it so easily.

In the interest of getting my DD safely operational as quickly as possible is there any reason why I couldn't jb weld the studs back into the top hat?

I'm not averse to spending money on new ones, I just want to be able to fix this asap so I can drive my car again.

[jmz135]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Mine all fell out when i did my suspension too.

Patience was key here. I figured out which one could go in first (which one would be the one that held the best in the press fit slot) and just put one in and get the nut on a few turns, not tight whatsoever. Then just massaged the other two blindly into place by hand. I used a hydraulic jack to raise and lower the whole assembly at the same time.

It's a pain but definitely possible.

I had an issue with the ST shock being at enough of an angle where I could only get 2 in at a time.

[jmz135]

Originally Posted by ///JAAM

I don't see why that wouldn't work. You just need them to hold still while you torque it down.

Ok - I'm going to try that when I get home from work today

Not looking forward to disassembling the fronts again sigh but oh well, doing it right is important.

Thanks a lot for all of your help - if the jb weld doesn't work out I will just bite the bullet and order some new ones, maybe the ones from that guy in NY.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by jmz135

Ok - I'm going to try that when I get home from work today

Not looking forward to disassembling the fronts again sigh but oh well, doing it right is important.

Thanks a lot for all of your help - if the jb weld doesn't work out I will just bite the bullet and order some new ones, maybe the ones from that guy in NY.

I would not trust jb weld for that piece. It'll only take 1 nasty pothole to break those studs loose. You should seriously look at camber plates. Dinan is selling their fixed plates for 15% off with free 3 day shipping, and they were already discounted to begin with. Assuming your ST coilovers reuse the stock tophats you should just spend $150 and get more performance out of it. Not to mention they serve as reinforcements for the strut towers.

Actually seeing how you're in SF, you'd probably get the plates next day.

[jmz135]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

I would not trust jb weld for that piece. It'll only take 1 nasty pothole to break those studs loose. You should seriously look cat camber plates. Dinan is selling their fixed plates for 15% off with free 3 day shipping, and they were already discounted to begin with. Assuming your ST coilovers reuse the stock tophats you should just spend $150 and get more performance out of it. Not to mention they serve as reinforcements for the strut towers.

Actually seeing how you're in SF, you'd probably get the plates next day.

Ok I'm a little confused on what your concern is - it doesn't seem like the jb weld would be doing anything here other than holding the screws in place while I can raise up the shock and torque them down. Once I have them torqued down, the jb weld won't be what is holding them in anymore?

If there is a real reason to not do it this way I will buy new ones - just trying to understand the reason this would potentially be a problem.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by jmz135

Ok I'm a little confused on what your concern is - it doesn't seem like the jb weld would be doing anything here other than holding the screws in place while I can raise up the shock and torque them down. Once I have them torqued down, the jb weld won't be what is holding them in anymore?

If there is a real reason to not do it this way I will buy new ones - just trying to understand the reason this would potentially be a problem.

I don’t know how often you wrench around your car but I’m saying every time you loosen those nuts, there’s a good chance the studs will fall right through again and that would annoy the F out of me. If you’re going to install coilovers, you'll need an alignment. And if you're going to pay for an alignment, you may as well dial in some camber. That's all...

Me personally, I had to work around that area 2x so far in 1 year. Once to install a strut bar and once for alignment.

[jmz135]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

I don’t know how often you wrench around your car but I’m saying every time you loosen those nuts, there’s a good chance the studs will fall right through again and that would annoy the F out of me. If you’re going to install coilovers, you'll need an alignment. And if you're going to pay for an alignment, you may as well dial in some camber. That's all...

Me personally, I had to work around that area 2x so far in 1 year. Once to install a strut bar and once for alignment.

Ok I see what you're saying. It's a fair point. If this wasn't my DD I would probably order some camber plates and install them. Once the springs finish settling and I lower it to the point where it will stay I will be getting an alignment.

[houtan]

You get this figured out?

Same thing happened to me when I did my suspension install; was very frustrating.

What I ended up doing is pushing the stud back in the hole and used a piece of masking tape to hold it. Then I carefully raised the strut put the studs through the hole with the help of a jack and put the nut on the loose stud first so it couldn't fall back through. Then I loosely, like one or two turns, put on the other two nuts. Then I lowered the jack all the way so the weight of the suspension was pulling back down on the loose stud. That held the stud in the hole while I tightened the nut. After get it snug, I got the other two snug, then I torqued them down starting with the loose stud first.

Hope this helps.

[jmz135]

Hi everyone - I finally managed to get it working though not without some more fun.

To start the evening off right I managed to drop one of the loose studs into the engine bay so I got a first hand lesson on how to take the splash guard off. Luckily the stud fell right out after removing the splash guard...so then i put the 112 screws holding the splash guard back in

Anyway - I put a bit of jb weld on the 3 loose studs and managed to hold them into the top hat for long enough for them to start setting. Let them dry for a couple hours and then with the help of my friend, we raised the brake/shock with the jack and guided it in.

One of the studs came loose again, but we actually managed to hold it in from the bottom enough that we could tighten and torque it down without it falling out.

Oh and I managed to lose one of the nut/washers somehow so I had to go to home depot and buy a 13mm metal washer and nut to replace it...ugh.

Anyway, long story short, I have them all torqued down to 25 ft/lbs now and the car now feels very stable. Was a bitch, but I could probably do it again much more easily now.

If it wasn't obvious this was my first moderately complex part install on my car. Thanks everyone for the advice/suggestions, it really helped a ton!