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      02-28-2012, 03:41 PM   #705
RnmEvo9
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Aside from improved braking, steering response and handling, do you think the average person will feel a difference in acceleration when they reduce the rotational inertia by about 28lbs?

I am going with Apex ARC-8s on my car mostly due to the weight reduction, but I also like how they look. This is all subjective, but I would appreciate opinions anyways...



My car is the same color but with tints, should I go with hyper silver like pictured above or satin black?
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      02-28-2012, 03:50 PM   #706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RnmEvo9 View Post
Aside from improved braking, steering response and handling, do you think the average person will feel a difference in acceleration when they reduce the rotational inertia by about 28lbs?

I am going with Apex ARC-8s on my car mostly due to the weight reduction, but I also like how they look. This is all subjective, but I would appreciate opinions anyways...



My car is the same color but with tints, should I go with hyper silver like pictured above or satin black?
there's definitely a difference. when it comes to inertia, 28lbs is like 100lbs because it's rotating.

lighter wheels means the wheels and tires will have better control because it's easier for the suspension to move about. say if one wheel goes up in the air, the spring can respond faster to put it back in it's place.

Also, your clutch pedal feel will be a lot better (if you're standard) not to mention, your clutch will last longer. Getting a rolling object to start moving when it is heavier takes a lot more work.

and lets not forget, it's not only a weight benefit. you can put wider and better tires on, so you gain in grip.
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      02-28-2012, 03:51 PM   #707
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I also have the ARC-8s, they are nice wheels. But I would recommend doing more suspension upgrades with them too as the fronts sit very wide, so if you add camber you will have a better time with them, otherwise you'll be rubbing your fenders.
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      02-28-2012, 03:56 PM   #708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexim View Post
Great.. Thanks so much.. That's the info I was looking for..
I'll be running stock exhaust, at leats for now.
the dp is just to go for map 2 on JB4
The sound insulation really is about twice as good.. totally different cars
Thanks again
i just noticed you have an N55 engine. that stock exhaust doesn't have secondary cats like N54 engined cars do. with a catless downpipe on an N55, it will be louder than we experience on N54 cars. i've seen an n55 135i with a catless downpipe, it wasn't super loud but it was noticeably louder than my catless downpipe-equipped n54 w/ secondary cats. just a fair warning
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      02-28-2012, 03:57 PM   #709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The1 View Post
I also have the ARC-8s, they are nice wheels. But I would recommend doing more suspension upgrades with them too as the fronts sit very wide, so if you add camber you will have a better time with them, otherwise you'll be rubbing your fenders.
Thanks for the response. I'll be going with 235/40 in the front and 265/35 in the rear as I need the better grip. So how about it, hyper silver or satin black on that colored car lol?
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      02-28-2012, 03:57 PM   #710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The1 View Post
there's definitely a difference. when it comes to inertia, 28lbs is like 100lbs because it's rotating.

lighter wheels means the wheels and tires will have better control because it's easier for the suspension to move about. say if one wheel goes up in the air, the spring can respond faster to put it back in it's place.

Also, your clutch pedal feel will be a lot better (if you're standard) not to mention, your clutch will last longer. Getting a rolling object to start moving when it is heavier takes a lot more work.

and lets not forget, it's not only a weight benefit. you can put wider and better tires on, so you gain in grip.
+1 lightweight wheels do really make a difference. hell, even getting rid of the run-flat tires makes a noticeable difference




thanks the1, totally agreed once again
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      02-28-2012, 04:01 PM   #711
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my advice on coloured cars is moot because I had a black 135 and currently a white one

and I went for the Anthricite. Black wheels are everywhere, and to a certain extent where I am, they remind me a bit of winter rims. Also police cars with black rims.

Mind you, black does look a bit evil.

I would probably go silver in your case, but that's just my opinion.

235/40 should fit alright, they are hard to find though (if i remember correctly, it was a while ago that I did my research)
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      02-28-2012, 04:20 PM   #712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryce View Post
i just noticed you have an N55 engine. that stock exhaust doesn't have secondary cats like N54 engined cars do. with a catless downpipe on an N55, it will be louder than we experience on N54 cars. i've seen an n55 135i with a catless downpipe, it wasn't super loud but it was noticeably louder than my catless downpipe-equipped n54 w/ secondary cats. just a fair warning
Oh I see.. I didn't know that.. well anyway I'm getting the DPs anyway, the performance gain overshadows the noise part I guess..

Thanks for all the advice
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      02-28-2012, 04:39 PM   #713
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Thanks for your opinion The1. bryce, what say you about the color choices?

I swear I feel like a woman...I have never been so undecided in my life!
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      02-28-2012, 04:42 PM   #714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexim View Post
Oh I see.. I didn't know that.. well anyway I'm getting the DPs anyway, the performance gain overshadows the noise part I guess..

Thanks for all the advice
you'll love the increased power and quicker spool!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RnmEvo9 View Post
Thanks for your opinion The1. bryce, what say you about the color choices?

I swear I feel like a woman...I have never been so undecided in my life!
lol. i personally love gunmetal wheels on a black car. mine:

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      02-28-2012, 04:43 PM   #715
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also, the wider rear tires help hold traction TREMENDOUSLY. i have 275's out back and my car doesn't spin the tires hardly at all anymore. that's with the procede stage III or cobb stage 2+ fmic tunes
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      02-29-2012, 09:38 AM   #716
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morning bump
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      02-29-2012, 10:17 AM   #717
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How's installation on the DPs??
Anything tricky??
I heard about the v clamp messing with the wastegate rods or something (N55)..
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      02-29-2012, 10:19 AM   #718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexim View Post
How's installation on the DPs??
Anything tricky??
I heard about the v clamp messing with the wastegate rods or something (N55)..
i installed downpipes on my 135i with a friend. pretty big pain in the butt. on my 335i, i gladly paid a local shop to do it.

n55 is a little bit easier since there'e only 1 downpipe and the position is a little better.

the v-band clamp can interfere with the wastegate arm, you just have to check the clearances before you're done. as long as the v-band clamp is in the same position as when the car was stock, it should be fine.
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      02-29-2012, 10:22 AM   #719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryce View Post
i installed downpipes on my 135i with a friend. pretty big pain in the butt. on my 335i, i gladly paid a local shop to do it.

n55 is a little bit easier since there'e only 1 downpipe and the position is a little better.

the v-band clamp can interfere with the wastegate arm, you just have to check the clearances before you're done. as long as the v-band clamp is in the same position as when the car was stock, it should be fine.
Great.. I'm having a shop do it, but I'm not sure they hav a lot of experience with BMW... I'll just let them know..
Tnks
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      02-29-2012, 10:24 AM   #720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexim View Post
Great.. I'm having a shop do it, but I'm not sure they hav a lot of experience with BMW... I'll just let them know..
Tnks
most shops with any experience installing headers on n/a cars should be able to install downpipes. it's about the same labor-wise
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      02-29-2012, 01:18 PM   #721
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bryce the controls for the procede (like map switching, etc) are only done through the autopilot control right???
I was really leaning toward the procede but my car hasn't got auto pilot..
so I assume map switching and everything through a laptop every time would be a pain right?
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      02-29-2012, 01:28 PM   #722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexim View Post
bryce the controls for the procede (like map switching, etc) are only done through the autopilot control right???
I was really leaning toward the procede but my car hasn't got auto pilot..
so I assume map switching and everything through a laptop every time would be a pain right?
You can change maps by:

-cruise control
-double click the dtc (traction control) button. This would work for you since you don't have cruise control
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      03-02-2012, 02:54 PM   #723
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ttt for general questions
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      03-04-2012, 06:03 PM   #724
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Originally Posted by bryce View Post
ttt for general questions
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      03-05-2012, 11:56 AM   #725
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Hey what's the deal with the warm-up time on this car? It probably takes at least twice as long to break off the coldest line on the oil temperature gauge as any other car I've owned. Is that because it starts at 160F? I like to let my car warm up before doing any spirited driving but It doesn't crack 160 until I am at least 10-15 miles into my trip... which often times is the entire length of the trip.
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      03-05-2012, 12:03 PM   #726
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Originally Posted by J0E View Post
Hey what's the deal with the warm-up time on this car? It probably takes at least twice as long to break off the coldest line on the oil temperature gauge as any other car I've owned. Is that because it starts at 160F? I like to let my car warm up before doing any spirited driving but It doesn't crack 160 until I am at least 10-15 miles into my trip... which often times is the entire length of the trip.
99% of other cars, including the previous ones you've owned, had a coolant termperature gauge. the 135i/335i have oil temperature gauges instead of coolant. oil temps take longer than coolant to rise. you really should let the oil temps rise to operating temps before driving hard. on my previous cars, the temp gauge was up to normal within a minute or two.
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