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      09-24-2016, 07:52 PM   #89
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Just got the Megan Racing toe arms installed and alignment done... I am happy to report that the car feels dramatically different. I would say about 80% of the side to side flex and sway has been resolved. This would probably be my 3rd best mod after tune and bushings... dont hold back on this and get it done asap... you will be happy you did...

I feel the next most useful thing here now would be an LSD... as now the car goes forward and traction is the sole issue... I am running probably 400WTQ.

I am on Koni Yellows (full soft), M3 RSFB's, Megan Racing Toe Arms, Michelin PSS on APEX Ec-7 and the alignment below... good day mates!
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      09-25-2016, 01:51 PM   #90
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+1 also installed megan rear toe arm. Did alignment(my alignment was good b4 the install). Car feels way more predictable when the rear kick out. Rear also feel way more planted when accel hard. Now, will see how long those joints can last in the toe arms b4 they make noise.
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      09-25-2016, 04:40 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmak
+1 also installed megan rear toe arm. Did alignment(my alignment was good b4 the install). Car feels way more predictable when the rear kick out. Rear also feel way more planted when accel hard. Now, will see how long those joints can last in the toe arms b4 they make noise.
have been running them for a year now 13k km no noises at all. very happy with them
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      09-25-2016, 08:26 PM   #92
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Got a set of HP rear arms, need to install them.
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      09-25-2016, 08:31 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Got a set of HP rear arms, need to install them.
Do it immediately!

I would say a majority of my problems were immediately fixed!
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      12-26-2017, 10:32 PM   #94
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Has anyone done the rear trailing arms and or busbings? I am not sure if mine are worn or damaged... but the rear still feels very swuirrely and has some serious flex in the rear... even when driving straight on the why sometines.
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      12-27-2017, 12:50 PM   #95
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Thank you +ASAP for resurrecting this thread. I've been trying to figure out if the trailing arms and bushings are worth swapping out... Anyone do this DIY???
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      12-27-2017, 04:33 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by trainerjon View Post
Thank you +ASAP for resurrecting this thread. I've been trying to figure out if the trailing arms and bushings are worth swapping out... Anyone do this DIY???
Does you car sway in the back? My car just feels unsettled as a whole in the rear... I have all of the important bits... M3 RSFB, MR toe arms, koni yellows and it still doesn't feel quite right. I am sure a part of it is alignment but something still seems off... and always has a bit. The car wanders a little... I heard wear rear trailing arm bushings can cause all sorts of mayhem.
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      12-27-2017, 10:06 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASAP View Post
Does you car sway in the back? My car just feels unsettled as a whole in the rear... I have all of the important bits... M3 RSFB, MR toe arms, koni yellows and it still doesn't feel quite right. I am sure a part of it is alignment but something still seems off... and always has a bit. The car wanders a little... I heard wear rear trailing arm bushings can cause all sorts of mayhem.
How many miles do you have on yours? I have 143k and it does feel a bit unpredictable on the track, but it does drive straight. I do have M3 RSFB's but original dampers/springs. I plan on doing coilovers and M3 Rear bits, but I still think there's something to all the bushings on this car. Makes it wiggle and adds an unpredictable component that is unnerving.
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      12-28-2017, 12:50 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainerjon View Post
How many miles do you have on yours? I have 143k and it does feel a bit unpredictable on the track, but it does drive straight. I do have M3 RSFB's but original dampers/springs. I plan on doing coilovers and M3 Rear bits, but I still think there's something to all the bushings on this car. Makes it wiggle and adds an unpredictable component that is unnerving.
Car has 83k... I should probably look at the rear end to make sure everything checks out.
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      12-28-2017, 02:09 PM   #99
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you guys have LSD or still on stock open diff?
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      12-28-2017, 03:27 PM   #100
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I'll weigh in,
102,xxx far as I know all rear arms/bushings are stock. I did the whiteline subframe inserts though.

Just did the mfactory lsd and coded out the e-lsd, I think. Pretty sure it worked.

I am FBO +inlets and E60, kill mode is 34psi.


My issue was I make far more power than the ediff was designed to handle, as well as every bushing. When the E would activate the car was very loose. It felt like all the bushings where filled with water, rear just wanted to go everywhere and the brakes tried to correct it.
After the lsd, virtually all sorted.

I'm not saying bushings/arms won't help because I'm sure they do. What I'm saying is the major issue is how the Ediff works. It is designed and programed for safety, not fun.
If there is a way to log wheel speed sensors, I'd look into that and compare it to how loose the car feels. If a loose feeling correlates to wheel speed, then it's a good bet the ediff is active and is the culprit. If they are same/very similar than call it a bushing problem.
Either edibas or carly might be a good choice to look for wheel speed info.
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      12-28-2017, 11:10 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
I'll weigh in,
102,xxx far as I know all rear arms/bushings are stock. I did the whiteline subframe inserts though.

Just did the mfactory lsd and coded out the e-lsd, I think. Pretty sure it worked.

I am FBO +inlets and E60, kill mode is 34psi.


My issue was I make far more power than the ediff was designed to handle, as well as every bushing. When the E would activate the car was very loose. It felt like all the bushings where filled with water, rear just wanted to go everywhere and the brakes tried to correct it.
After the lsd, virtually all sorted.

I'm not saying bushings/arms won't help because I'm sure they do. What I'm saying is the major issue is how the Ediff works. It is designed and programed for safety, not fun.
If there is a way to log wheel speed sensors, I'd look into that and compare it to how loose the car feels. If a loose feeling correlates to wheel speed, then it's a good bet the ediff is active and is the culprit. If they are same/very similar than call it a bushing problem.
Either edibas or carly might be a good choice to look for wheel speed info.
I'm still using the factory diff, but I'm only running the PPK on my n55. I do have exhaust, intake, but no FMIC yet.
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      01-02-2018, 12:46 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASAP View Post
Does you car sway in the back? My car just feels unsettled as a whole in the rear... I have all of the important bits... M3 RSFB, MR toe arms, koni yellows and it still doesn't feel quite right. I am sure a part of it is alignment but something still seems off... and always has a bit. The car wanders a little... I heard wear rear trailing arm bushings can cause all sorts of mayhem.
Post your alignment specs and we will see if we can help.
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      01-02-2018, 11:55 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1 View Post
I'll weigh in,
102,xxx far as I know all rear arms/bushings are stock. I did the whiteline subframe inserts though.

Just did the mfactory lsd and coded out the e-lsd, I think. Pretty sure it worked.

I am FBO +inlets and E60, kill mode is 34psi.


My issue was I make far more power than the ediff was designed to handle, as well as every bushing. When the E would activate the car was very loose. It felt like all the bushings where filled with water, rear just wanted to go everywhere and the brakes tried to correct it.
After the lsd, virtually all sorted.

I'm not saying bushings/arms won't help because I'm sure they do. What I'm saying is the major issue is how the Ediff works. It is designed and programed for safety, not fun.
If there is a way to log wheel speed sensors, I'd look into that and compare it to how loose the car feels. If a loose feeling correlates to wheel speed, then it's a good bet the ediff is active and is the culprit. If they are same/very similar than call it a bushing problem.
Either edibas or carly might be a good choice to look for wheel speed info.
I've been saying this for a while. E-diff works well, but you feel the torque pulsate left to right as it does it's thing. You feel it more and more as you get more aggressive with tires and brakes... I run rcomps now and the inside wheel has slipped on me and then the e-diff applied the inside brake causing to tire to grab and the car to launched/torque-steer itself out of the turn way off line... E-diff definitely causes weight to shift and bushings to "wind-up." Toe arms help alleviate this, but a smoother operating mechanical differential would help too... And it doesn't kill your lap times by constantly braking wheels to keep them at the same wheel speed.

Last edited by bbnks2; 01-03-2018 at 11:55 AM.
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