BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      07-19-2015, 06:03 AM   #89
dcaron9999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suhb View Post
Do these provide a benefit without the cooling brake ducts of the m sport bumper?
I found the F30 dust shields had no noticeable effect as I was still getting brake fade at the track. I removed the F30's, modified my E82 stockers, and attached custom cooling ducts/piping via flanges rivetted to stock dust shields.

I made a few posts with pics here --->

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=57

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=38

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=36
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts

Last edited by dcaron9999; 07-19-2015 at 09:45 AM..
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      02-13-2018, 05:03 PM   #90
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Sorry to bring back an old thread, but i am picking up my new to me 125i tomorrow and getting the brakes done (front and back) and wanted to do this while i am in there.

The part number(s) you submitted are no longer available, and my local dealer mentioned it is for the F20 1 series as well as the F30 3 series, which both have the following part number(s):

F20:
34106873417
34106873418

F30:
34116872081
34116872082

So now i am confused on which is the correct part for the 125i, they both appear to have that "bend" to allow air to come in (yes the 125i i am picking up has the M-Sport package with the front bumper).
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      02-17-2018, 03:59 PM   #91
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Just an update,

I was browsing around Babybmw forums and found an old thread regarding the back plates.

Basically, the updated parts are:

34116872081 & 82

I will be checking with my local dealer, since they have them in stock and report back,
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      02-17-2018, 05:39 PM   #92
juld0zer
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Even if you order the old part number you will get whatever they have of that item.
Ie if there is a new part number and you order that, you will get whatever your local warehouse has because they will need to get rid of stock of the old part number first.

Conversely, if you order using the old part number and they only have the new part number in stock you will get that. That's how supersessions work.
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      05-12-2018, 08:56 PM   #93
JHZR2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveHard View Post
I say that the f30 / bent backing plates allow for sufficinet air flow ...

I did note that the holes in my vented rotors on the bent backing plate side were clogged more than the F30 backing plate side. ( i took a drill and cleaned all the holes ) ill say that the added air helped keep them less obstructed
Any thoughts on if the increased airflow would help keep wheels cleaner under routine use?
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      09-12-2018, 10:51 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
I found the F30 dust shields had no noticeable effect as I was still getting brake fade at the track. I removed the F30's, modified my E82 stockers, and attached custom cooling ducts/piping via flanges rivetted to stock dust shields.

I made a few posts with pics here --->

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=57

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=38

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=36

Sorry to bump an old post but are you saying essentially you needed ducting to solve the problem? Do you have issues with the steering rack?
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      02-28-2023, 09:44 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fe1rx View Post
I did this mod about a year ago, a bit deceived by the pictures I saw that appeared to show that the F30 scoop projected past the inside lip of the wheel. This isn't the case for even the OE 7.5" front wheel.

In any case, here are a few pictures of my installation that may provide some inspiration for others:

1) I marked the new backing plate from the opposite handed original with a transfer punch after first bolting the two together with appropriate spacers to keep things parallel.

Attachment 1014942

2) At the same time the required trim for the caliper was marked.

Attachment 1014943

3) As others have noted the required hole is tight up to a bend radius. I used a Roper Whitney No. 5 punch to make the holes rather than a drill.

Attachment 1014944

4) The backing plate is very soft so I made a simple reforming die out of aluminum to reform the radius to accept a bolt and washer.

Attachment 1014945

5) Here is the plate installed (I was changing wheel bearings at the same time). Note 4th bolt that most others don't use.

Attachment 1014946

6) Using the 4th bolt requires making a suitable length spacer, and the bolt only picks up a half-hole. Regardless, it substantially stabilizes the backing plate.

Attachment 1014947

7) As others have noted, there is some interference with one of the ball joints.

Attachment 1014948

8) Here is the affected area.

Attachment 1014949

9) I bumped this with a ball peen hammer on a shot bag.

Attachment 1014950

10) The conflict is resolved with just a bit of reforming.

Attachment 1014951

11) This is the view of the plate with an OE 7.5 x 18 wheel.

Attachment 1014960

12) A more face-on view shows that the scoop does not project past the inside edge of the wheel.

Attachment 1014961
Do you recall the dimensions of the spacer you made for the fourth bolt hole?

Thanks.
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