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11-04-2012, 04:15 PM | #1 |
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Claying the car
I have read many posts about using clay and decided today to try the bar that has been sitting in the garage for a year. The only thing I can say is WOW what a difference. After claying and using Klasse the car looks wet all over. It took about an hour and a half to clay the car and then of course the wax, but it was well worth it. I can say that I am a convert.
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11-04-2012, 04:46 PM | #2 |
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never heard of claying? Any pix
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11-04-2012, 06:16 PM | #4 |
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Claying is using a special clay bar with Speed Shine to remove all the contaminates from the paint. I used the Groits bar, but most of the wax suppliers have their own brand.
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11-04-2012, 06:17 PM | #5 |
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Hope you washed the car prior to claying
![]() Clayed my car the weekend after I got it. Bar was white before and each half section it was brown. Glad you are converted!
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11-04-2012, 08:02 PM | #6 |
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11-04-2012, 10:37 PM | #7 |
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Now take it to the next level. Get yourself a porter cable randome orbit polisher and give your paint a polish. I was similar to you...I was impressed with the clay plus some wax. Then I tried polishing the paint after the clay and the results are excellent. Really worth the added effort. Check out the before/during/after shots on the detilersdomain.com and detailedimage.com
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11-05-2012, 05:39 AM | #10 |
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Your car is never truely clean until you've clayed it. The paint should feel like glass now.
Beware though, only clay after washing to remove all heavy dirt that could be dragged across the surface. Claying causes marring to the paint so be prepared to polish and glaze it afterwards. Then sealant and wax for the cleanest paint and the best protection. I clay approx every 6mths based on my low mileage. |
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11-05-2012, 01:30 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Video is good Dackelone ![]() ![]()
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11-05-2012, 01:59 PM | #12 |
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There is also a new-er technology... Autoscrub pad...
NanoSkin AutoScrub - the clay bar killer http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...Skin+Autoscrub http://www.detailersdomain.com/Detai...ants_c_66.html
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11-05-2012, 03:58 PM | #13 | |
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11-05-2012, 04:05 PM | #14 |
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^ If done right, I'd think you'd be buffing out the surface contaminants, not the clear coat.
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11-06-2012, 09:55 AM | #16 |
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yea the NanoSKIN is amazing. it does a slightly better job (in my opinion) and it cuts time way down; time that can then be spent conditioning the leather seats, for example
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11-12-2012, 02:37 PM | #18 |
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I would use clay bar bought from an online detailer like "Detailer's Domain" or "Detailed Image".
I once used some Meguiar's clay kit on a dark green bmw and it was pure hell trying to fix all the spots where the clay bar stuck to the paint. I told myself never again would I buy a clay bar, "off the shelf" so to speak. I've used DD's (blue)uber clay bar and liked it. Also be sure to buy a clay bar lube too. Dack
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11-12-2012, 05:11 PM | #19 | |
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11-13-2012, 12:59 AM | #20 | |
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11-13-2012, 01:06 AM | #21 |
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You will have to do a polish correction after clay bar. Clay bars remove contaminants, but also create fine scratches which need to be removed with stage 1 polish for a good finish.
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11-13-2012, 02:44 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
pouse re file th kanis? skeftome na paro apo chemical guy shttp://www.chemicalguys.com/Clay_Bar_Elastic_Light_all_surface_Paint_Cleaner_p/cly_109.htm |
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