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      01-29-2011, 06:27 AM   #1
HaroldC
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How much negative camber .......

Are you guys getting with lowering and no camber plates? I'm trying to decide whether or not to add camber plates to the suspension I'm going to get. (KW V2)

-Probably going to lower 1" - 1.25", nothing crazy. I just want to get rid of the SUV look and firm up the suspension so it isn't so floaty at speed.
-I'm not going to be tracking much, maybe one or two events per year. (I miss having a dedicated track car, and I'll be instructing so I want to drive what I bring)
-For street driving, I don't want anything more than -2 degrees, ideally -1.5 would be great.
-Is the Vorshlag camber plate capable of adding less (more positive) negative camber than without running one?

Thanks!
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      02-05-2011, 03:08 PM   #2
HaroldC
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Anyone? No one has any alignment numbers without camber plates?

Now I'm thinking about the APEX 18x8.5 w/ 245 up front. Apex says that -1.8 is necessary to fit the 245, so I need to know if I need camber plates.
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      02-06-2011, 12:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaroldC View Post
Anyone? No one has any alignment numbers without camber plates?

Now I'm thinking about the APEX 18x8.5 w/ 245 up front. Apex says that -1.8 is necessary to fit the 245, so I need to know if I need camber plates.
Yes, you'll need camber plates to get -1.8 degrees. Before going with camber plates myself on stock suspension, I tried removing the alignment pins on the strut housings and added the E92 M3 front control arms so see how much camber I could get, before having to step up to a more aggressive solution. All up, I got just under -1 deg max; definitely not enough to fix the APEXs up front on 245s.

With the Vorshlag plates, you can go from stock (virtually no camber) to -3 deg on lowering springs/coilovers. With my setup on stock shocks/struts, the max I could get is -2.6 deg. Keep in mind that the camber plates will lower the front-end of the car (approx 1/4") from removal of the front strut top bushing, so it'll already have a front raked-down stance.

Some of the aftermarket springs drop the car pretty low (H&R), so you'll have additional front-end lowering from the plates to contemplate for rubbing issues with the large rubber. Most guys use a competition coilover setup in conjunction with camber plates and are able to dial in the ride height and/or corner balance for their needs, so it's not a concern for them versus a fixed height approach.
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      02-13-2011, 09:44 AM   #4
NFIDDY5
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The JIC CROSS coilovers have camber plates included. I am running -1.5 degrees at all four corners. And the are 16 way adjustable and a few hundred bucks cheaper than the KW Variant 3's.
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      02-13-2011, 10:32 AM   #5
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With just springs (no camber plates, m3 links etc) I maxed the front camber at -0.65, you'll need camber plates to get more than that
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      02-13-2011, 10:43 AM   #6
NFIDDY5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dicker View Post
With just springs (no camber plates, m3 links etc) I maxed the front camber at -0.65, you'll need camber plates to get more than that
I believe he stated he was looking at the KW2 coilovers. Which would still need camber plates. JIC CROSS FTMFW.
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      02-14-2011, 11:58 PM   #7
HP Autosport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaroldC View Post
Anyone? No one has any alignment numbers without camber plates?

Now I'm thinking about the APEX 18x8.5 w/ 245 up front. Apex says that -1.8 is necessary to fit the 245, so I need to know if I need camber plates.
You will get -0.5 with out camber plates on a lowered car. Maybe a bit more with the locating pin removed. You will not get those wheels to clear without camber plates.

If you were to switch the camber plates left to right, you could get more positive camber, but that sort of defeat the purpose of getting camber plates.

Last edited by HP Autosport; 02-15-2011 at 12:04 AM..
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