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| 08-11-2009, 01:24 PM | #23 |
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Most interesting Roadster
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Drives: '01 Z3.0 Roady;'10 C300 Sport
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Location: Boston 'burbs
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Midday update:
They called me and told me that even though the top is working again, the tech found a TSB about the issue. He said it described my issue to a "T" (top almost closing, motor whirring, but the hooks not locking down to the windshield header). Apparently, there is a cable in the top that gets caught on an exposed screw under there. The fix is to simply cover the exposed screw with some nylon tape so that the cable no longer gets caught. Seems like a likely scenario, and the cable had come dislodged from the screw while it was slack when I had the top down, hence the reason it started working again. Kudos to Tulley BMW for actually LISTENING to their customer and trying to find a resolution even though the top was working perfectly. Lots of dealers would've given it the "working within spec" stamp and sent me on my way until the next time the cable caught. I have a rattle in the back that they're sorting out now. I'll let everyone know if they find it and how to fix it.
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| 08-11-2009, 01:58 PM | #24 |
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get news! can you find out the TSB number? I would like to have this proactively taken care of the dealership next time I bring the car in for service instead to wait for the top fail to close (when I really need it to).
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| 08-11-2009, 02:09 PM | #25 | |
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Drives: '01 Z3.0 Roady;'10 C300 Sport
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Quote:
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I can't complain, but sometimes I still do........Life's been good to me so far.
- Joe Walsh |
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| 08-13-2009, 10:45 AM | #26 | |
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Most interesting Roadster
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Drives: '01 Z3.0 Roady;'10 C300 Sport
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Location: Boston 'burbs
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Quote:
I removed mine just in case.....and in the process became an expert at it lol. I got it back in yesterday in about 20 minutes  Removing it can be a bit challenging....it's hard to get the wires out of the black plugs that they send you. I have a stab mark in my finger from a small screwdriver to prove it!
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| 08-13-2009, 12:17 PM | #27 |
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Glad to hear your dealer has competent people working for them who don't automatically assume the customers are stupid.
Did you get the TSB number yet?
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| 05-14-2020, 11:36 AM | #28 | |
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Same issue - just fixed sensor problem
Quote:
I'll also post in a new thread. I had this exact problem and in searching for clues found that several others have had it. Posting this as I just FIXED it. Just had a problem on our 120i where the roof wont latch to the top of the windscreen when it closes. The whole mechanism seems to work up until the final locking but then the hooks just dont move - so was then serenaded by the BMW bongs as you drive along. AFter 3 days of intense problem determination have finally solved it - and I reckon it could be a common problem so hope this helps someone else. The solution was one of the Hall Effect sensors on the mechanism that had become displaced by a few millimeters, managed to push back in place and secured with a cable tie. The sensor that caused this is called "Tensioning bar extended" but what it really means is the hydraulic ram is extended that pushes the rear window up and down. There are a total of 8 Hall sensors on the mechanism - these are on a RH drive car I presume they are the same for LH drive as well. 1 in the cowl panel above the windscreen 2 under the rear storage compartment on the LH side of the vehicle (looking forward) 5 behind the rear RH quarter panel (when looking forward). These can be really difficult to find as some are only exposed at certain points as the roof goes up/down, its easiest to find the cable and follow it to the sensor, - there are 2 towards the back of the mechanism that are obvious when the storage compartment cover is up, a third can be seen from the same point but looking forward under the rams, a fourth is buried deep down near the seat belt , and the 5th was the devil - it was on the hydraulic strut itself and very well camoflaged, the cable to it was tied to the hydraulic lines and had pulled tight - it had pulled the sensor out by just a mm or two. I cut off the cable ties and tied the sensor to the strut itself. There was an awful lot more to the diagnosis than that, I ended up taking the Control Unit out and used a oscilloscope to monitor the sensor signals as the roof moved, once you've located the sensor you can actually test it by monitoring the pins on the control unit with a 'scope or digital voltmeter as you pass a steel bar in front of the sensor. Trying tpo add a picture of the sensor layout and the pin numbers in the control unit - without success at moment. Last edited by Bill H; 05-14-2020 at 11:40 AM.. Reason: correct errors |
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