What Can I Do for You?

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Hey Everyone,

For those who do not know me, my name is Zach McGovern. I am an engineer, professional detailer & car enthusiast based out of Peoria, IL (1/2 way between Chicago and St. Louis). I specialize in higher end paint correction services, paint coatings, and am very knowledgeable in many other aspects of the detailing process as well.





I work for Detailed Image as an author for their Ask-A-Pro Blog where I provide personal Product Reviews, How-To's, Tips & Tricks, etc.

I also help Detailed Image out by supporting many forums that they sponsor by answering questions and providing useful product recommendations when I can.

I'd like to know.... what else can I do for you?


Is there anything in particular that you feel is missing from this forum that I can help to provide?


I'd love to hear your feedback!

Thanks in advance.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[Gray_Panther]

It's great that you're doing this! Gratitude.

Question: I feel as if continual use of ONR washes decreases the longevity of my Collinite 845 wax.

Background: 2002 GTi that sits outside 24/7 and gets washes every week or two. Upstate NY weather where it rains and snows quite often during the winter with road salt in full effect.
The wax begins to degrade after 1.5-2 months. I clay the car well and perform the plastic bag test before applying two coats of wax.

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

It's great that you're doing this! Gratitude.

Question: I feel as if continual use of ONR washes decreases the longevity of my Collinite 845 wax.

Background: 2002 GTi that sits outside 24/7 and gets washes every week or two. Upstate NY weather where it rains and snows quite often during the winter with road salt in full effect.
The wax begins to degrade after 1.5-2 months. I clay the car well and perform the plastic bag test before applying two coats of wax.

You will likely find that continuous washes of any kind can reduce the beading characteristics of a wax or sealant.

We often judge durability of paint protection by how well it beads, but the reality is that beading is only a sign of high surface tension, and nothing more.... so your wax might still be in tact, there is just no real way to tell.

Surface tension can be altered by many things... one of which is surfactants.

Originally Posted by wiki

Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension (or interfacial tension) between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid. Surfactants may act as detergents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, foaming agents, and dispersants.

Surfactants are commonly found in most shampoos/cleaners. Repeated use of a chemical, especially if mixed in a concentration stronger than recommended, can certainly lower the surface tension to the point where beading seems to be diminished or even disappeared.

Environmental contamination will also effect surface tension. Since your vehicle sits outside and is subjected to airborne pollutants all day, every day, it is no surprise that your LSP may not perform as well for as long compared to someone who parks their vehicle inside for 1/2 of the day.

The easiest thing to do at this point is simply re-apply a new layer of wax to restore the beading, or perhaps simply utilize a spray detailer which has hydrophobic properties such as Meguiar's D156.

Product Review: Meguiar’s D156 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax by Zach McGovern

I use D156 with Optimum No Rinse on a regular basis. After you have washed a section with ONR, mist D156 onto the wet surface, then dry the panel. The D156 will add even more lubrication while drying, and will help to boost gloss, slickness, and protection. It adds no time to the process, but enhances the results... can't beat that.


Let me know if you have any other questions!

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[Gray_Panther]

A thousand thanks for a thorough response.
Appreciation left.

[Joebie]

Zach, I've got a question about touch-up paint.

The hood of my jet black 135i has some classic-looking small round paint chips that have chipped off the base coat down to the primer. I think I could easily fill, wet sand, compound, and then polish them out. I have a DA polisher and use meguiars M105 and M205, and I've watched some youtube videos and read tutorials on filling and correcting paint chips but I've never done any actual paint chip repair, just basic polishing and waxing so far.

My question is, what is a good supplier of touch-up paint for my car? There's like a million sites that pop up when you google "touch up paint" and I really just don't know what a good quality product is out of all the choices. Any advice for me?

I see on your ask-a-pro page that you recommend dr colorchip but I feel like I can do a little better given the equipment I have and the time I'm willing to take to make things perfect.

Thanks!

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by Joester

Zach, I've got a question about touch-up paint.

The hood of my jet black 135i has some classic-looking small round paint chips that have chipped off the base coat down to the primer. I think I could easily fill, wet sand, compound, and then polish them out. I have a DA polisher and use meguiars M105 and M205, and I've watched some youtube videos and read tutorials on filling and correcting paint chips but I've never done any actual paint chip repair, just basic polishing and waxing so far.

My question is, what is a good supplier of touch-up paint for my car? There's like a million sites that pop up when you google "touch up paint" and I really just don't know what a good quality product is out of all the choices. Any advice for me?

I see on your ask-a-pro page that you recommend dr colorchip but I feel like I can do a little better given the equipment I have and the time I'm willing to take to make things perfect.

Thanks!

Hey,

To be perfectly honest, I am certainly not as experienced in this process as I would like to be (mostly due to lack of time to practice), but you can purchase an inexpensive touch up pen at your dealership for exact color match to your OEM paint. You can use this to easily fill in the chip and then refine it afterwards using the technique you had mentioned (sanding and correcting).

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[dtla1]

I've tried to ask this before, but:

Do you have any recommendations or know of a website that I should refer to to find a qualified and experienced detailer in the Los Angeles/Ventura County area of Southern California?

[fjgregor]

What's your take on CarPro Essence?

I'm a rookie trying to get his car detailed. My car is an alpine white. I've got technique pretty much settled in. Would this be okay to correct paint with say, an orange microfiber pad? Then use the same product with a black microfiber pad to finish and give gloss back to the paint?

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by fjgregor

What's your take on CarPro Essence?

I'm a rookie trying to get his car detailed. My car is an alpine white. I've got technique pretty much settled in. Would this be okay to correct paint with say, an orange microfiber pad? Then use the same product with a black microfiber pad to finish and give gloss back to the paint?

I have become quite fond of CarPro Essence... In my opinion, it is a great option if you will be applying a CQuartz coating to your vehicle as it eliminates the need to perform a solvent wipe down prior to installing the coating.

Remember, we have great articles on a ton of products, so check out the Ask-A-Pro Blog. Here is my article on Essence.
Product Review: CarPro Essence (Initial Impressions) by Zach McGovern


Essence is traditionally used as a final finishing polish. If your vehicle needs heavier correction, I would begin with a compound like Griot's Fast Correcting Creme to remove the defects on a microfiber pad or light cutting pad, and then enhance gloss using Essence on a polishing pad.


If you are not applying CQuartz, then Essence is not as valuable to me, and I would likely use a more traditional polish for the final gloss enhancing step such as Meguiar's M205.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[motley2012]

Removing final glaze with a DA, foam pad or microfiber finishing pad?

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by motley2012

Removing final glaze with a DA, foam pad or microfiber finishing pad?

Not sure I understand your question?

You would not traditionally use a DA machine to remove a glaze..... you could use a DA machine to apply a glaze, then remove it with a microfiber towel. Glaze would be most commonly applied with a foam polishing or finishing pad.

-Zach

[tglazed]

Hey Zach,

My "procedure" when doing my spring detail on my sapphire black 1 series is:
Wash
Claybar
Wash
Cut (where needed)
Polish
Apply wax (let sit for an hour or two)
Then remove

Would you say that this is a good procedure or is there something you would change? Also, I notice that when I finish I still manage to have the micro scratches, no matter what I do, I can't get rid of them. Any comments on this. Last question and then I am done with my novel. What makes the higher end waxes such as dodo juice worth as much as they are? I have always just varied the wax that I use but always use a carnuba wax. Thanks for answering our questions!

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Sorry, our username is confusing.... several of us post under the same account name.

My name is actually Zach. I work for Detailed Image as a support to the various forums they sponsor and also as an author for their Ask-A-Pro Blog. I am a professional detailer based in Central Illinois who specializes in paint correction work and other exterior services. I always add my signature to the bottom of my posts so you can know it was me


Now on to your question... Your process seems great!

Wash, decontaminate, correct, polish, protect. That is the basics of a good exterior detail.


Higher end waxes tend to use more expensive ingredients and are produced in smaller batches, which results in higher product costs. A true wax addict may be able to point out subtle differences in appearance between various waxes, but the majority of us won't necessarily be able to distinguish a $100 wax from a $500 wax. My personal favorite carnauba is Pinnacle Souveran paste wax... but you also can't go wrong with something like Pete's 53 either! There are so many choices, you can have a lot of fun experimenting with them

Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
www.AttentiontoDetailingPeoria.com

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Bump... feel free to reach out to me directly with any questions you may have

-Zach

[Gray_Panther]

Hi Greg,

Been following your work for some time now and enjoying every correction you undertake.

I have a question about iron-x and similar fallout removal products. The directions to apply the product on dry panels and after 5 minutes to take a damp cloth and work the product into the paint.

I tried this on my GTi and just didn't feel comfortable performing this action. I will be doing a paint correction on a GLC300 in May and was wondering if I can spray the product on a wet car just after washing it.

Would I yield better results on dry or wet paint? Any tips for me?

[hunginator]

Hey Zach,

Recently, I picked up Optimum No-Rinse Wash (ONR) and I've used to a couple times. Both times, it felt really weird! I'm still not convinced that this is a SAFER method compared to a traditional 2-bucket method soap/shampoo wash.

Also, whenever I view the blogs of all these high-end detailing shops, they always seem to be washing the car with soap rather than rinseless solutions before correcting the paint. This leads me to believe that the professionals still prefer the traditional soap 2 bucket method wash.

Looking forward to your reply.

Thanks!

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by Gray_Panther

Hi Greg,

Been following your work for some time now and enjoying every correction you undertake.

I have a question about iron-x and similar fallout removal products. The directions to apply the product on dry panels and after 5 minutes to take a damp cloth and work the product into the paint.

I tried this on my GTi and just didn't feel comfortable performing this action. I will be doing a paint correction on a GLC300 in May and was wondering if I can spray the product on a wet car just after washing it.

Would I yield better results on dry or wet paint? Any tips for me?

The products state to spray onto a dry panel in an effort to get the maximum iron removing abilities out of the chemical. If you are spraying Iron X (or similar) onto a wet panel, you are effectively diluting the chemical and therefore reducing its ability to remove the iron particles.

I would recommend a slightly different approach as this is what we do and what works well for us...

Make Iron X the first step in your washing & decontamination process. Spray the Iron X liberally onto a dirty vehicle and let it go to work, next foam the car down and begin washing the car. This will assist in lifting the loosened iron particles from the paint.

Hope that helps!

-Zach

Originally Posted by hunginator

Hey Zach,

Recently, I picked up Optimum No-Rinse Wash (ONR) and I've used to a couple times. Both times, it felt really weird! I'm still not convinced that this is a SAFER method compared to a traditional 2-bucket method soap/shampoo wash.

Also, whenever I view the blogs of all these high-end detailing shops, they always seem to be washing the car with soap rather than rinseless solutions before correcting the paint. This leads me to believe that the professionals still prefer the traditional soap 2 bucket method wash.

Looking forward to your reply.

Thanks!

Hey - "safer" is a pretty subjective term, however I am a big fan of both rinseless and waterless washing methods. When done properly, and in the right situations, I would say that are certainly as safe as traditional washing.

We use foam lances and pressure washes on the majority of vehicles that come in for full correction work because we are doing a lengthy cleaning AND decontamination process. This process utilizes various chemicals such as tar removers, iron/fallout removers, etc. along with detailing clay or synthetic clay products to completely remove any bonded contaminates from the surface prior to the paint correction process. I do not like to use rineseless or waterless washing products when we are using these other chemicals as I like to rinse the areas very very well to ensure all of the other chemicals have been removed after use.

For general maintenance, rinseless and waterless washes are my go-to!

Hope that helps!

-Zach

[Gray_Panther]

Originally Posted by Greg@DetailedImage

The products state to spray onto a dry panel in an effort to get the maximum iron removing abilities out of the chemical. If you are spraying Iron X (or similar) onto a wet panel, you are effectively diluting the chemical and therefore reducing its ability to remove the iron particles.

I would recommend a slightly different approach as this is what we do and what works well for us...

Make Iron X the first step in your washing & decontamination process. Spray the Iron X liberally onto a dirty vehicle and let it go to work, next foam the car down and begin washing the car. This will assist in lifting the loosened iron particles from the paint.

Hope that helps!

-Zach

Hey - "safer" is a pretty subjective term, however I am a big fan of both rinseless and waterless washing methods. When done properly, and in the right situations, I would say that are certainly as safe as traditional washing.

We use foam lances and pressure washes on the majority of vehicles that come in for full correction work because we are doing a lengthy cleaning AND decontamination process. This process utilizes various chemicals such as tar removers, iron/fallout removers, etc. along with detailing clay or synthetic clay products to completely remove any bonded contaminates from the surface prior to the paint correction process. I do not like to use rineseless or waterless washing products when we are using these other chemicals as I like to rinse the areas very very well to ensure all of the other chemicals have been removed after use.

For general maintenance, rinseless and waterless washes are my go-to!

Hope that helps!

-Zach

Brillaint!!!!
Thank you so so much!

[hunginator]

Thank you for your reply Zach!

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Happy to help, guys.

Sorry for the delayed response . Thanks for being patient

[Gray_Panther]

No problem. I figured you will eventually come around to this forum assuming you have a hundred other car forums to attend to.

[hunginator]

Another question for you Zach!

For starters, my car is Alpine White which means that after the winter, the orange rust/iron spots that build up are very visible; mostly located on the paint around the wheels and trunk area.

After I use Sonax Fallout remover (I let it dwell on the dry paint for about 5 minutes), I follow up with clay. When I am claybarring the whole car, I still notice these orange iron/rust spots. They're not as bad as before using Fallout remover but they're still there.

My question, is Sonax Fallout remover supposed to remove ALL of these orange rust spots?

Reason for my concern is that because there are still rust spots, when I claybar, I end up applying lots of pressure with my claybar on these rust spots and that'll end up in the rust spots being removed. However, I'm not sure if using that much pressure on the claybar is good for the paint!

I look forward to your reply! Thanks!