Advice

onefastman · 03-21-2010, 05:09 PM

I have started to do autocross and will do pdx later in the season. I have wanted to upgrade suspension for some time but have either not had the cash or found something I rather have had. I saw a member had some lower control arms with head light regulator rods for sale at $150 shipped. I picked them up. Now I want to know what people think are benifical upgrades that are easy to do (I have access to a lift, full shop, and help) that are somewhat cheap. I am thinking m3 sway bar, m3 tension rods. Also I will move to the v710's later so dont say tires. Discuss please

onefastman · 03-22-2010, 01:37 PM

No one?

cpt97m3 · 03-22-2010, 08:30 PM

Both front arms would be good, plus a front sway bar. Then I'd do the rear subframe bushings with the M3 Parts, and add some negative camber in front.

larryn · 03-22-2010, 08:54 PM

If you are talking V710's, as in Kumhos (and not V710 wheels), I'd highly recommend not going to R-Comps as a novice.

I've instructed for quite a few years, and you need to learn technique on street tires before moving up to R-Comps. If you don't, you're only cheating yourself out of learning driving skill (while pissing through expensive tires). Do yourself a favor and wait at least few seasons before thinking of doing R-Comps.

As for your suspension, cpt97m3 gives decent advice on what parts to bolt on. If you do them yourself, the fronts will leave your alignment so far out of whack that you will not be able to drive it. So, unless you know how to do self-serve alignment or have a place lined up that's close by, don't do those yourself.

bradford · 03-22-2010, 09:25 PM

2nd everything Larry said about Race tires until you have lots of experience. Make your mistakes in a controllable manner and lower speeds. Graduate to R-comps once you have mastered intermediate techniques. Most clubs will not even let novices run R-comps on the track.

ianc · 03-23-2010, 10:49 AM

Quote:

If you do them yourself, the fronts will leave your alignment so far out of whack that you will not be able to drive it.

Larry, I thought I had read somewhere that you suggested that if you turned each tie rod about 10 turns toe-in, that would get your pretty close. Close enough to drive to the alignment shop anyway? No?

TIA for any input or suggestions in this regard since I plan on doing tension rods and wishbones in the near future...

ianc

larryn · 03-24-2010, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianc

Larry, I thought I had read somewhere that you suggested that if you turned each tie rod about 10 turns toe-in, that would get your pretty close. Close enough to drive to the alignment shop anyway? No?

TIA for any input or suggestions in this regard since I plan on doing tension rods and wishbones in the near future...

ianc

That's true.

I posted that in the BERK thread, where they did this same update after I installed mine. Still, I wouldn't recommend people taking it on, if they're not confident in what you are doing. The rest is bolt on, but if you're not careful or turn things the wrong it could be way or lose count, you could wind up undrivable.

It's certainly not rocket science, but there is more risk with that part of it, than the rest of the front. Dunno about the rear yet, as I have not installed the bushings there yet.

ianc · 03-25-2010, 10:06 AM

Quote:

It's certainly not rocket science, but there is more risk with that part of it

Had to do the same thing after installing turbo tie rods in my 911 so I don't think it should be a big deal. Thanks though...

ianc

onefastman · 03-28-2010, 05:07 PM

Good to know, I think I will stick with street tires then and get the tension rods/ front sway and bushings then leave it for a while. I will tackle it my self and adjust as you guys described and if it wont go then ill put her back on the lift and adjust some more but I think Ill get it right the first time.

Dackelone · 03-28-2010, 05:20 PM

I've replaced tie rods at home before. Its no big deal. What you want to do though is CAREFULLY measure the tire toe before you mess with things. I used a measuring tape on the tire groves. Took pics too of the way the tires sat, toe in/out - with the wheels pointed straight ahead.

After I replaced the tie rods... I thought I got them on in the right amount of toe... but I was way off. Even counting the turns. So... I just did my own home alignment using the measuring tape method. Use the tire thread groves as a guide as to where to measure. Measure the front and back of the tire - toe. In the end... after I got the car on the ground - with the steering wheel pointed straight ahead... you will have to make some toe adjustments. Then I drove the car a few miles to my aligment center.

IF you get it big time wrong... i wold have the car towed/flat bed'd there.

IF your mechanically inclined I would still say go ahead and do this at home.

ianc · 03-28-2010, 06:00 PM

Yes, David's method was exactly what I did. With the car on the lift, just make double sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead, then break out the measuring tape and measure using the same spot on the tread pattern in the front of the tire and at the rear. Just shoot for the same measurement, which should give you 0 toe. Should get you close enough to make it to the alignment shop without any issues. Make sure the steering wheel is straight though...

ianc

onefastman · 03-29-2010, 03:49 PM

Thanks for the advice guys!

03-21-2010, 05:09 PM	#1
onefastman Major General 159 Rep 5,689 Posts Drives: 2009 135i 2011 e92m dct Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Earth iTrader: (15)	Advice I have started to do autocross and will do pdx later in the season. I have wanted to upgrade suspension for some time but have either not had the cash or found something I rather have had. I saw a member had some lower control arms with head light regulator rods for sale at $150 shipped. I picked them up. Now I want to know what people think are benifical upgrades that are easy to do (I have access to a lift, full shop, and help) that are somewhat cheap. I am thinking m3 sway bar, m3 tension rods. Also I will move to the v710's later so dont say tires. Discuss please __________________ Legal Disclaimer: Anything I or anyone else says about my vehicle on this website(1addicts.com or any affiliated or nonaffiliated sites), pertaining to modifications, is only to gain acceptance from my/our peers, and does not actually represent anything actually existing on my car, and thus, cannot be held against me in any issues, i.e. warranty claims, that may arise.
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03-22-2010, 01:37 PM	#2
onefastman Major General 159 Rep 5,689 Posts Drives: 2009 135i 2011 e92m dct Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Earth iTrader: (15)	No one? __________________ Legal Disclaimer: Anything I or anyone else says about my vehicle on this website(1addicts.com or any affiliated or nonaffiliated sites), pertaining to modifications, is only to gain acceptance from my/our peers, and does not actually represent anything actually existing on my car, and thus, cannot be held against me in any issues, i.e. warranty claims, that may arise.
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03-22-2010, 08:30 PM	#3
cpt97m3 AutoXer 34 Rep 683 Posts Drives: 2009 135i Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: So Cal iTrader: (2)	Both front arms would be good, plus a front sway bar. Then I'd do the rear subframe bushings with the M3 Parts, and add some negative camber in front. __________________ 2009 135i, Alpine White, 6MT, M-Sport, iDrive, iPod/USB, Heated Seats, Premium Sound, BMW Assist
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03-22-2010, 08:54 PM	#4
larryn Lieutenant General 2148 Rep 10,176 Posts Drives: '97 332ti, '21 X5 45e, '16 GT4 Join Date: May 2005 Location: Seattle iTrader: (2)	If you are talking V710's, as in Kumhos (and not V710 wheels), I'd highly recommend not going to R-Comps as a novice. I've instructed for quite a few years, and you need to learn technique on street tires before moving up to R-Comps. If you don't, you're only cheating yourself out of learning driving skill (while pissing through expensive tires). Do yourself a favor and wait at least few seasons before thinking of doing R-Comps. As for your suspension, cpt97m3 gives decent advice on what parts to bolt on. If you do them yourself, the fronts will leave your alignment so far out of whack that you will not be able to drive it. So, unless you know how to do self-serve alignment or have a place lined up that's close by, don't do those yourself.
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03-22-2010, 09:25 PM	#5
bradford Major 28 Rep 1,035 Posts Drives: 2008 SGM 135i Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Chicago > * iTrader: (4)	2nd everything Larry said about Race tires until you have lots of experience. Make your mistakes in a controllable manner and lower speeds. Graduate to R-comps once you have mastered intermediate techniques. Most clubs will not even let novices run R-comps on the track.
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03-28-2010, 05:07 PM	#9
onefastman Major General 159 Rep 5,689 Posts Drives: 2009 135i 2011 e92m dct Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Earth iTrader: (15)	Good to know, I think I will stick with street tires then and get the tension rods/ front sway and bushings then leave it for a while. I will tackle it my self and adjust as you guys described and if it wont go then ill put her back on the lift and adjust some more but I think Ill get it right the first time. __________________ Legal Disclaimer: Anything I or anyone else says about my vehicle on this website(1addicts.com or any affiliated or nonaffiliated sites), pertaining to modifications, is only to gain acceptance from my/our peers, and does not actually represent anything actually existing on my car, and thus, cannot be held against me in any issues, i.e. warranty claims, that may arise.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-28-2010, 05:20 PM	#10
Dackelone European Editor 10589 Rep 22,992 Posts Drives: N54 e82 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Bayern, Germany iTrader: (1)	I've replaced tie rods at home before. Its no big deal. What you want to do though is CAREFULLY measure the tire toe before you mess with things. I used a measuring tape on the tire groves. Took pics too of the way the tires sat, toe in/out - with the wheels pointed straight ahead. After I replaced the tie rods... I thought I got them on in the right amount of toe... but I was way off. Even counting the turns. So... I just did my own home alignment using the measuring tape method. Use the tire thread groves as a guide as to where to measure. Measure the front and back of the tire - toe. In the end... after I got the car on the ground - with the steering wheel pointed straight ahead... you will have to make some toe adjustments. Then I drove the car a few miles to my aligment center. IF you get it big time wrong... i wold have the car towed/flat bed'd there. IF your mechanically inclined I would still say go ahead and do this at home.
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03-28-2010, 06:00 PM	#11
ianc Ex '87 Carrera 246 Rep 1,259 Posts Drives: '10 TiAg 6MT 135i Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Redwood Shores, California iTrader: (0)	Yes, David's method was exactly what I did. With the car on the lift, just make double sure the wheels are pointed straight ahead, then break out the measuring tape and measure using the same spot on the tread pattern in the front of the tire and at the rear. Just shoot for the same measurement, which should give you 0 toe. Should get you close enough to make it to the alignment shop without any issues. Make sure the steering wheel is straight though... ianc
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03-29-2010, 03:49 PM	#12
onefastman Major General 159 Rep 5,689 Posts Drives: 2009 135i 2011 e92m dct Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Earth iTrader: (15)	Thanks for the advice guys! __________________ Legal Disclaimer: Anything I or anyone else says about my vehicle on this website(1addicts.com or any affiliated or nonaffiliated sites), pertaining to modifications, is only to gain acceptance from my/our peers, and does not actually represent anything actually existing on my car, and thus, cannot be held against me in any issues, i.e. warranty claims, that may arise.
	Appreciate 0 Quote