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      12-14-2015, 10:02 PM   #1
davis449
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Keep Blowing Fuse 77, Climate Control Will Not Power On

From google searching I get the idea that a lot of people experience issues consistently blowing this fuse. Currently my climate control will not power on. Through searching I have found threads that have to do with issues with blown blubs and contacts touching with the glove box and trunk light bulbs causing this issue. Not the case here. Everything is intact with both. After thinking about it, since I bought this car, the glove box and trunk lights have never worked. I went to rewire my radar detector the other day (all I did was take some slack out of the cable that was bunched up in the headliner), but I have completely removed it to take that out of the equation. I have blown a total of five fuses trying to run this down and am out of ideas. I would appreciate any insight.
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      12-14-2015, 11:09 PM   #2
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If I had to guess, based solely upon what you put in your post, I would say that the culprit is aftermarket wiring done by a former owner or you.
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      12-14-2015, 11:42 PM   #3
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This thread is pretty timely. I had to deal with the same issue today. I was putting my car back together after getting my Bimmertech backup camera installed. The climate controls were working before I started putting everything together. When I fired up the car to do a test drive, the climate controls were dead. Tore everything apart again to see if I could find a bad connection at the controls or pinched/severed wires. Nothing.

As you did, I did an online search and found references to fuse 77. Pulled it out and sure enough. Blown. I replaced it and everything is up and running again. I have no idea why that fuse would have blown. I'd be interested to see what is causing yours.
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      12-15-2015, 07:18 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by champignon View Post
If I had to guess, based solely upon what you put in your post, I would say that the culprit is aftermarket wiring done by a former owner or you.
+1 it has to be some bad wiring somewhere. How was the radar detector wired? Where was it getting power from?

What happens after you replace the fuse? Does it blow immediately? or would it blow, say for example, after your open the glove box/boot?
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      12-15-2015, 09:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
+1 it has to be some bad wiring somewhere. How was the radar detector wired? Where was it getting power from?

What happens after you replace the fuse? Does it blow immediately? or would it blow, say for example, after your open the glove box/boot?
The detector is the only thing aftermarket wired in the the car. It's worked fine for over a year and a half. No bare wire exposures anywhere on the Escort hardwire setup and it's inline glass fuse is good. The wires for it are out of the way and there's nothing in contact with the fuse panel that would possibly bridge two contacts and cause a arc. I am tapping off fuse #8 for the detector. Not sure off hand what that fuse is used for (I'll have to go look at the diagram), but it's a 10 amp fuse. I am using an add-a-fuse in that spot with an additional 7.5 amp fuse. Both of those fuses are in tact. As previously stated, I have already taken the radar detector's wiring completely out of play and put only fuse 8's 10 amp fuse back in and the #77 fuse still blows immediately when you put in a replacement. To your point there on the end of the paragraph, I have the glove box completely out of the car and I have tried disconnecting both it and the trunk light, individually, and #77 still blows immediately when you put in a new one.
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      12-15-2015, 05:46 PM   #6
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Hmm ok. Is there anything else wrong with your car? Anything at all no matter how small or silly?

I did a quick search and found references to failing door lock actuators and another one where there was a short in the tail light.

Another thing i thought about: whats the situation with your battery, is it the original? Has it been replaced with some dodgy cheap one the previous owner got just to sell the car?
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      12-16-2015, 08:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Hmm ok. Is there anything else wrong with your car? Anything at all no matter how small or silly?

I did a quick search and found references to failing door lock actuators and another one where there was a short in the tail light.

Another thing i thought about: whats the situation with your battery, is it the original? Has it been replaced with some dodgy cheap one the previous owner got just to sell the car?
I read about the failing door lock actuators and the short in the tail light, too, during my initial search. Everything is fine with two door locks and both my tail lamps are functioning normally. However, the trunk pop just stopped working yesterday (the key fob, the inside switch, and the handle all do not work). I also just noticed yesterday that the engine fans are running on high all the time now, as well.

As for the battery, it's definitely an OEM battery but there's no way to know if it's a newer one. I have a feeling it's the original battery and there's a distinct possibility that it's going bad. Car starts and runs fine, but I know that doesn't mean anything. My previous Audi ran great until the morning I woke up and the OEM battery was dead and needed to be replaced with no prior warning signs. I am aware that a battery going bad can cause some or all of this as well.

Last edited by davis449; 12-16-2015 at 11:49 AM..
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      12-16-2015, 09:17 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davis449 View Post
I read about the failing door lock actuators and the short in the tail light, too, during my initial search. Everything is fine with two door locks and both my tail lamps are functioning normally. However, the trunk pop just stopped working yesterday (the key fob, the inside switch, and the handle all do not work). I also just noticed yesterday that the engine fans are running on high all the time now, as well.

As for the battery, it's definitely an OEM battery but there's no way to know if it's a newer one. I have a feeling it's the original battery and there's a distinct possibility that it's going bad. Car starts and runs fine, but I know that doesn't mean anything. My previous Audi ran great until the morning I woke up and the OEM battery was dead and needed to be replaced with no prior warning signs. I am aware that a battery going bad can cause some of all of this as well.
Batteries are coded as to date of production.

If it is an OEM battery, then no one other than a BMW dealer would have put that in there. Your dealer should be able to look up in the service records for the car whether the battery was ever changed by a BMW dealer. If not, it is almost certainly original.
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      12-16-2015, 01:46 PM   #9
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To help you rule out some things, my car is a 2013 purchased in January of 2014. So I'm pretty sure my battery doesn't have any issues. The radiator fan ran at full blast also when my fuse was blown and the climate controls were dead. Replacing the fuse solved by my climate control issue and stopped the radiator fan from running at full tilt.

So what I'm saying is most probably, the radiator fan is running at full tilt for you because the climate controls are dead. When you resolve the issue with why fuse #77 is blowing, then that should also solve the radiator fan.
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      12-16-2015, 06:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davis449 View Post
However, the trunk pop just stopped working yesterday (the key fob, the inside switch, and the handle all do not work).
There you go. Theres your (potential) problem. The trunk lock actuator is probably fucked. Do you have access to coding/diagnostic software? If your lock is malfunctioning you will get a fault code in the FRM (footwell module) to confirm it.

I think take it to an independent shop, ask them to do a diagnostic scan and post back what they find. They can also check battery registration history (i.e. how many times the battery has been replaced). This might only cost you about $50 but would be totally worth it.
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      12-17-2015, 09:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zx10guy View Post
To help you rule out some things, my car is a 2013 purchased in January of 2014. So I'm pretty sure my battery doesn't have any issues. The radiator fan ran at full blast also when my fuse was blown and the climate controls were dead. Replacing the fuse solved by my climate control issue and stopped the radiator fan from running at full tilt.

So what I'm saying is most probably, the radiator fan is running at full tilt for you because the climate controls are dead. When you resolve the issue with why fuse #77 is blowing, then that should also solve the radiator fan.
Perfect, that is what I suspected as the cause of that as well. The system defaults to "high" when there is no regulation. Makes sense to me.

Quote:
There you go. Theres your (potential) problem. The trunk lock actuator is probably fucked. Do you have access to coding/diagnostic software? If your lock is malfunctioning you will get a fault code in the FRM (footwell module) to confirm it.

I think take it to an independent shop, ask them to do a diagnostic scan and post back what they find. They can also check battery registration history (i.e. how many times the battery has been replaced). This might only cost you about $50 but would be totally worth it.
Makes sense since all of this is tied together. However, I remember being able to use my trunk on Monday morning, so maybe is a successive failure and not the cause? Not sure. I don't have access to diag. equipment and won't have time to run it to an indy shop here in town before my appy. at the dealer tomorrow. Is this a code that Autozone Scanners would be able to pick up? I for sure will have time to go and do that this evening.
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      12-17-2015, 03:41 PM   #12
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maybe you should check this connection.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1206142
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      12-18-2015, 09:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexResistance View Post
maybe you should check this connection.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1206142
I had not checked that, but I had that same stain on my lower panel that goes beneath the glove box. Just noticed it this morning when I was putting the parts in the car before heading to the dealer to drop it off. I just sent the pics to my service adviser! Thank you!
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      12-18-2015, 01:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davis449 View Post
I had not checked that, but I had that same stain on my lower panel that goes beneath the glove box. Just noticed it this morning when I was putting the parts in the car before heading to the dealer to drop it off. I just sent the pics to my service adviser! Thank you!
I hope this solves your issue and they can catch, and fix it before your car catches fire lol.
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      12-18-2015, 04:14 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ApexResistance View Post
I hope this solves your issue and they can catch, and fix it before your car catches fire lol.
Fuck it. If it catches fire, I will file the insurance claim and be done with it!

All kidding aside, regardless of what they find\fix\don't fix, I will check this out for myself when I get it back. I really do appreciate your chiming in here.
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      12-29-2015, 09:03 AM   #16
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UPDATE:

So I was out of town for the holiday last weekend and wanted to update this thread with the cause of my issue. Turns out that some wiring between the glove box light and the valet trigger in the glove box area somehow got crossed and caused a slow, successive failure of all of the listed items in my OP over the last year and 8 months. The technician suspects someone had messed with the wiring prior to my purchasing of the car. He did confirm that my radar detector's wiring was not at fault in any way. Hell, it took him 5 hrs. to figure out where the problem was. The issue was bad enough that they had to reprogram the car as well. Thank you all again for your help.
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      12-29-2015, 07:48 PM   #17
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Would you explain this further? Does the tech think whatever was messed with caused t he valet and the glove box light to cross circuits?....ie a short?
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      12-29-2015, 08:37 PM   #18
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It really sucks when you buy a used car and it turns out that the bozo who owned it before fucked around with the wiring. My 1M had a Lojack like device installed behind the rear seat and caused the battery to drain for no reason. It cost me more than a $1000 to get that POS located and removed and the wires respliced, as well as buying a new battery because the warranty doesn't cover this sort of intentional damage/current drain. The former owner, who did not sell the car to me (he sold it to a dealer from whom I bought it) denied ever putting the Lojack in the car, however there was no one else who could or would have had it installed.

A Z3 Coupe I owned was also mucked around with, both behind the glove box and also in the doors, butchering the central locking system in the process. That cost close to $1000 to rectify, also.

Pricks who don't know what they are doing should refrain from working on the electrical wiring of BMWs, but unfortunately a lot of them do not.
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      12-30-2015, 08:29 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zx10guy View Post
Would you explain this further? Does the tech think whatever was messed with caused t he valet and the glove box light to cross circuits?....ie a short?
Yes, you got it. That's what he said. They were crossed and caused a short. That issue cascaded through the circuit on which the glove box light, trunk light, trunk pop switch, climate controls, etc. were on causing them to eventually fail (the best we can tell). What he and I both thought was interesting was that it didn't start blowing that fuse right away (obviously, because all of these things would've been non-functioning the day I bought it), just the glove box light did not work. Then, coincidentally, when I went to adjust the wiring on my radar detector, the fuse finally starting blowing causing all those failures. He said all other wiring looked fine, which is a good thing.

Quote:
It really sucks when you buy a used car and it turns out that the bozo who owned it before fucked around with the wiring. My 1M had a Lojack like device installed behind the rear seat and caused the battery to drain for no reason. It cost me more than a $1000 to get that POS located and removed and the wires respliced, as well as buying a new battery because the warranty doesn't cover this sort of intentional damage/current drain. The former owner, who did not sell the car to me (he sold it to a dealer from whom I bought it) denied ever putting the Lojack in the car, however there was no one else who could or would have had it installed.

A Z3 Coupe I owned was also mucked around with, both behind the glove box and also in the doors, butchering the central locking system in the process. That cost close to $1000 to rectify, also.

Pricks who don't know what they are doing should refrain from working on the electrical wiring of BMWs, but unfortunately a lot of them do not.
No shit. I am pissed. I have a lot of experience wiring shit up in German cars so I really did think it was caused by me. Unlike most assholes, I blame myself first, but this wasn't caused by me.
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      12-30-2015, 11:49 AM   #20
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Thanks for the clarification. I'm trying to figure out if there was anything obvious that happened when I was reassembling my dash after installing the Bimmertech rear view camera setup. I know I didn't mess with any of the wiring we're talking about here other than disconnecting the climate controls, valet switch and glove box light from their respective harnesses. Yet I still managed to have a blown fuse.

I guess the good news is everything is still working/stable. So maybe it was a fluke thing.
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