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12-14-2015, 10:02 PM | #1 |
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Keep Blowing Fuse 77, Climate Control Will Not Power On
From google searching I get the idea that a lot of people experience issues consistently blowing this fuse. Currently my climate control will not power on. Through searching I have found threads that have to do with issues with blown blubs and contacts touching with the glove box and trunk light bulbs causing this issue. Not the case here. Everything is intact with both. After thinking about it, since I bought this car, the glove box and trunk lights have never worked. I went to rewire my radar detector the other day (all I did was take some slack out of the cable that was bunched up in the headliner), but I have completely removed it to take that out of the equation. I have blown a total of five fuses trying to run this down and am out of ideas. I would appreciate any insight.
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12-14-2015, 11:09 PM | #2 |
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If I had to guess, based solely upon what you put in your post, I would say that the culprit is aftermarket wiring done by a former owner or you.
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12-14-2015, 11:42 PM | #3 |
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This thread is pretty timely. I had to deal with the same issue today. I was putting my car back together after getting my Bimmertech backup camera installed. The climate controls were working before I started putting everything together. When I fired up the car to do a test drive, the climate controls were dead. Tore everything apart again to see if I could find a bad connection at the controls or pinched/severed wires. Nothing.
As you did, I did an online search and found references to fuse 77. Pulled it out and sure enough. Blown. I replaced it and everything is up and running again. I have no idea why that fuse would have blown. I'd be interested to see what is causing yours. |
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12-15-2015, 07:18 AM | #4 | |
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What happens after you replace the fuse? Does it blow immediately? or would it blow, say for example, after your open the glove box/boot? |
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12-15-2015, 09:06 AM | #5 |
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The detector is the only thing aftermarket wired in the the car. It's worked fine for over a year and a half. No bare wire exposures anywhere on the Escort hardwire setup and it's inline glass fuse is good. The wires for it are out of the way and there's nothing in contact with the fuse panel that would possibly bridge two contacts and cause a arc. I am tapping off fuse #8 for the detector. Not sure off hand what that fuse is used for (I'll have to go look at the diagram), but it's a 10 amp fuse. I am using an add-a-fuse in that spot with an additional 7.5 amp fuse. Both of those fuses are in tact. As previously stated, I have already taken the radar detector's wiring completely out of play and put only fuse 8's 10 amp fuse back in and the #77 fuse still blows immediately when you put in a replacement. To your point there on the end of the paragraph, I have the glove box completely out of the car and I have tried disconnecting both it and the trunk light, individually, and #77 still blows immediately when you put in a new one.
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12-15-2015, 05:46 PM | #6 |
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Hmm ok. Is there anything else wrong with your car? Anything at all no matter how small or silly?
I did a quick search and found references to failing door lock actuators and another one where there was a short in the tail light. Another thing i thought about: whats the situation with your battery, is it the original? Has it been replaced with some dodgy cheap one the previous owner got just to sell the car? |
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12-16-2015, 08:40 AM | #7 | |
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As for the battery, it's definitely an OEM battery but there's no way to know if it's a newer one. I have a feeling it's the original battery and there's a distinct possibility that it's going bad. Car starts and runs fine, but I know that doesn't mean anything. My previous Audi ran great until the morning I woke up and the OEM battery was dead and needed to be replaced with no prior warning signs. I am aware that a battery going bad can cause some or all of this as well. Last edited by davis449; 12-16-2015 at 11:49 AM.. |
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12-16-2015, 09:17 AM | #8 | |
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If it is an OEM battery, then no one other than a BMW dealer would have put that in there. Your dealer should be able to look up in the service records for the car whether the battery was ever changed by a BMW dealer. If not, it is almost certainly original. |
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12-16-2015, 01:46 PM | #9 |
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To help you rule out some things, my car is a 2013 purchased in January of 2014. So I'm pretty sure my battery doesn't have any issues. The radiator fan ran at full blast also when my fuse was blown and the climate controls were dead. Replacing the fuse solved by my climate control issue and stopped the radiator fan from running at full tilt.
So what I'm saying is most probably, the radiator fan is running at full tilt for you because the climate controls are dead. When you resolve the issue with why fuse #77 is blowing, then that should also solve the radiator fan. |
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12-16-2015, 06:48 PM | #10 | |
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I think take it to an independent shop, ask them to do a diagnostic scan and post back what they find. They can also check battery registration history (i.e. how many times the battery has been replaced). This might only cost you about $50 but would be totally worth it. |
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12-17-2015, 09:05 AM | #11 | ||
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12-17-2015, 03:41 PM | #12 |
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12-18-2015, 09:17 AM | #13 | |
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12-18-2015, 01:47 PM | #14 | |
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12-18-2015, 04:14 PM | #15 | |
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All kidding aside, regardless of what they find\fix\don't fix, I will check this out for myself when I get it back. I really do appreciate your chiming in here. |
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12-29-2015, 09:03 AM | #16 |
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UPDATE:
So I was out of town for the holiday last weekend and wanted to update this thread with the cause of my issue. Turns out that some wiring between the glove box light and the valet trigger in the glove box area somehow got crossed and caused a slow, successive failure of all of the listed items in my OP over the last year and 8 months. The technician suspects someone had messed with the wiring prior to my purchasing of the car. He did confirm that my radar detector's wiring was not at fault in any way. Hell, it took him 5 hrs. to figure out where the problem was. The issue was bad enough that they had to reprogram the car as well. Thank you all again for your help. |
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12-29-2015, 08:37 PM | #18 |
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It really sucks when you buy a used car and it turns out that the bozo who owned it before fucked around with the wiring. My 1M had a Lojack like device installed behind the rear seat and caused the battery to drain for no reason. It cost me more than a $1000 to get that POS located and removed and the wires respliced, as well as buying a new battery because the warranty doesn't cover this sort of intentional damage/current drain. The former owner, who did not sell the car to me (he sold it to a dealer from whom I bought it) denied ever putting the Lojack in the car, however there was no one else who could or would have had it installed.
A Z3 Coupe I owned was also mucked around with, both behind the glove box and also in the doors, butchering the central locking system in the process. That cost close to $1000 to rectify, also. Pricks who don't know what they are doing should refrain from working on the electrical wiring of BMWs, but unfortunately a lot of them do not. |
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12-30-2015, 08:29 AM | #19 | ||
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12-30-2015, 11:49 AM | #20 |
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Thanks for the clarification. I'm trying to figure out if there was anything obvious that happened when I was reassembling my dash after installing the Bimmertech rear view camera setup. I know I didn't mess with any of the wiring we're talking about here other than disconnecting the climate controls, valet switch and glove box light from their respective harnesses. Yet I still managed to have a blown fuse.
I guess the good news is everything is still working/stable. So maybe it was a fluke thing. |
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