What else with JB3?

[supracg]

Watup guys,

I just picked up my 135 a few days ago and I cant even explain how boosted I am (no pun). The power is already ridiculous for me now, but some time down the road I am planning to get the JB3 tune. So heres the question, what other mods do u guys think are necessary to get with the tune, as in what other mods would help the car deal with all of the added boost and pressure on the engine, for precaution so the car doesn't overheat or have other problems etc.

[themyst]

Intake, catless DPs, Intercooler. Exhaust gains are not worth the money, but if you can afford it, go for it!

[jeremyc74]

The catless downpipes would be my first mod after a JB3. Next would be the intercooler or/and intake of some sort.

If you're going to track the car frequently you might want to look at an oil cooler upgrade, but I haven't had any issues with mine during street use.

[MrRoboto]

Before a power upgrade, I would suggest tires and suspension.

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by MrRoboto

Before a power upgrade, I would suggest tires and suspension.

Tires come when the first set wears out, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with the suspension on this car.

[MrRoboto]

Originally Posted by jeremyc74

Tires come when the first set wears out, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with the suspension on this car.

Their is nothing wrong with 300hp either. We are talking upgrades here.

The M-Sport suspension is far from great. The run-flats are the weakest part of the car.

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by MrRoboto

Their is nothing wrong with 300hp either. We are talking upgrades here.

The M-Sport suspension is far from great. The run-flats are the weakest part of the car.

And why exactly should tires or suspension come before power?

The suspension is fine for a street car, even with way more than 300Hp. As I said, the tires get replaced when they wear out (which is only about 10k miles), and the run-flats have plenty of grip when they're good, so there's certainly no point in ditching them before then.

I hate the notion that a person shouldn't make a car faster without screwing with the suspension. This car handles and brakes better than supercars of 10 years ago. It's perfectly capable of handling more power exactly as it came from the factory.

[DocSean]

Originally Posted by jeremyc74

And why exactly should tires or suspension come before power?

The suspension is fine for a street car, even with way more than 300Hp. As I said, the tires get replaced when they wear out (which is only about 10k miles), and the run-flats have plenty of grip when they're good, so there's certainly no point in ditching them before then.

I hate the notion that a person shouldn't make a car faster without screwing with the suspension. This car handles and brakes better than supercars of 10 years ago. It's perfectly capable of handling more power exactly as it came from the factory.

Agreed. And I wouldn't put a catless downpipe on this car if someone gave it to me. Go catted and save yourself the headache down the road, trust me.

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by DocSean

Agreed. And I wouldn't put a catless downpipe on this car if someone gave it to me. Go catted and save yourself the headache down the road, trust me.

What headaches?

[InlineSix]

Originally Posted by jeremyc74

What headaches?

I'm guessing emissions testing? If it can even pass with cats... can someone explain?

[scorcherjf]

Depends what you want to do with the car. If you're only using it on the street, you will never overheat no matter what mods you do (unless you boost like 20 psi, in that case your turbos will blow up before you overheat anyway). If you're into tracking/HPDE, then that's where overheating may be a problem.

For street, I would just get the tune, then maybe intake/exhaust and perhaps downpipes/midpipes (if you want to keep your cats don't bother). Then upgrade your tires when your runflats wear out in a few thousand miles.

For occasional track, I'd go for tires first, then suspension, brake pads, race oil, oil cooler (not really any good ones out yet, hopefully AR design adapts their 335i kit for the 135i), intercooler, exhaust and tune.

[themyst]

Originally Posted by InlineSix

I'm guessing emissions testing? If it can even pass with cats... can someone explain?

That would be the only reason I wouldn't wanna go catless DPs. Three years from now when they actually do smog testing, it would be a real pain to swap out the DPs once a year. The power gains are so tempting though....

I'd say jump on that $300 catless DP group buy if you have the money. I am seriously thinking about it. The bang for the buck potential of the N54 motor is fantastic. BMS DCI $139, JB3 $349, DP Groupbuy $300... $779 to push the stock 265-275 whp to 370-380 whp on pump gas.

[MrRoboto]

Originally Posted by jeremyc74

And why exactly should tires or suspension come before power?

The suspension is fine for a street car, even with way more than 300Hp. As I said, the tires get replaced when they wear out (which is only about 10k miles), and the run-flats have plenty of grip when they're good, so there's certainly no point in ditching them before then.

I hate the notion that a person shouldn't make a car faster without screwing with the suspension. This car handles and brakes better than supercars of 10 years ago. It's perfectly capable of handling more power exactly as it came from the factory.

I guess it comes down to preference. You say suspension is fine for a street car...300hp is 'fine' for a street car as well.

If the intention is to use the car a few times at the track then the weakness of the tires is quite obvious. Suspension and tires will allow you to 'exploit' the existing power.

If you figure the BMW engineers designed the complete 135i system to work together, power, suspension, brakes, etc. it would only make sense that if the performance of one component is increased the others may become less effective within the system. Which ever you upgrade first is up to you.

[trboboost91]

Originally Posted by themyst

That would be the only reason I wouldn't wanna go catless DPs. Three years from now when they actually do smog testing, it would be a real pain to swap out the DPs once a year. The power gains are so tempting though....

I'd say jump on that $300 catless DP group buy if you have the money. I am seriously thinking about it. The bang for the buck potential of the N54 motor is fantastic. BMS DCI $139, JB3 $349, DP Groupbuy $300... $779 to push the stock 265-275 whp to 370-380 whp on pump gas.

make that JB3 PnP. you dont want to deal with pinout. PnP install and removal takes 1 hour the first time and 1/2 hour there after if you drink beer during.

[WhiteOne]

I have 10,000 miles on my original tires and they still look like new. I don't do burnouts or sling circles in my car. When worn, they will be replaced with non run flats.
If you add JB3($350) to your car, you should get the scanner($250) to check and clear detection codes. It can save your warranty. Get PNP if you want to remove JB3 before every service.
What I need is brake pads that don't dust so badly. Know what I mean?
Enjoy your car and welcome to 1addicts.

[DocSean]

Originally Posted by InlineSix

I'm guessing emissions testing? If it can even pass with cats... can someone explain?

First off, emissions. Second off, can you even imagine what a dealer is going to say when you take your car in for the complimentary oil change your you're car is not running cats??? I have dealt a lot with dealers on modded turbo cars, one thing they will not hesitate to bitch slap you over is missing cats. The first time something goes wrong with your car, they WILL remember that you had "off-road only" parts on your car. Trust me. Is it worth the extra 7 whp?

[MrRoboto]

Originally Posted by DocSean

First off, emissions. Second off, can you even imagine what a dealer is going to say when you take your car in for the complimentary oil change your you're car is not running cats??? I have dealt a lot with dealers on modded turbo cars, one thing they will not hesitate to bitch slap you over is missing cats. The first time something goes wrong with your car, they WILL remember that you had "off-road only" parts on your car. Trust me. Is it worth the extra 7 whp?

Do you guys have motor vehicle inspections? How do you get past without have proper emission control systems? I thought the US passed a clean air act a number of years ago.

I would feel kinda guilty in this day and age increasing my carbon footprint....now if you will excuse me I have to club this seal

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by DocSean

First off, emissions. Second off, can you even imagine what a dealer is going to say when you take your car in for the complimentary oil change your you're car is not running cats??? I have dealt a lot with dealers on modded turbo cars, one thing they will not hesitate to bitch slap you over is missing cats. The first time something goes wrong with your car, they WILL remember that you had "off-road only" parts on your car. Trust me. Is it worth the extra 7 whp?

Warranty isn't an issue for me, so I couldn't care less what the dealer thinks about my DPs. It's also worth more than 7WHP, especially on a car with a tune.

No emissions testing here.

[themyst]

Originally Posted by trboboost91

make that JB3 PnP. you dont want to deal with pinout. PnP install and removal takes 1 hour the first time and 1/2 hour there after if you drink beer during.

Pinout is not that tough... as long as you know how to follow instructions. Me and a friend got at the ECU going straight off the instructions, took us about 90 minutes to finish. I can get to the ECU in less than 10 minutes now.

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by themyst

Pinout is not that tough... as long as you know how to follow instructions. Me and a friend got at the ECU going straight off the instructions, took us about 90 minutes to finish. I can get to the ECU in less than 10 minutes now.

Yeah, but pulling it back out on the side of the road while you're waiting on BMW to pick your car up because the HPFP died will be much easier with the plug and play version.

I've got the pinout myself, and the install isn't bad, but I used heat shrink tubing on all the connections, and cutting it off to put the pins back into the connectors is going to be a PITA. Taping them isn't going to be much better, and the tech is looking hard enough the residue might actually tip him off that the wiring has been tampered with.

For cars that are out of warranty, I think the pinout version is a good choice, but I'd rather have the plug and play version for a new car. JMO.

[bradford]

Just FYI, it is *possible* to pass emissions with a well tuned engine and *NO* cats.

A "friend" of mine had a big-turbo Audi A4 with no cat and passed IL emissions testing several times even with the tailpipe sniffer.

I'm just sayin...

[DocSean]

Originally Posted by jeremyc74

Warranty isn't an issue for me, so I couldn't care less what the dealer thinks about my DPs. It's also worth more than 7WHP, especially on a car with a tune.

No emissions testing here.

Fact of the matter is there is only one aftermaket part you can put on your car which is actually illegal to run on the streets, and that is catless downpipes. Will some dealers overlook it, maybe...but here in AZ they would bust your ass in a heartbeat, and I suspect a lot of other states are that way or will become that way with tougher emissions coming in the next couple years.

I'd go with a larger turbo before I ever ran catless dp's, just my 2 cents, and I've been in the game for a while.