135i Mods and Hot Climate

[dubai135]

I'm taking delivery of a 135i vert (m-sport, MT) in a couple of weeks. It is a US spec car but will be using in Dubai, United Arab Emirates.

Dubai can be 100-110 degrees in summer with high humidity here. Mostly run a sea level. The local 'premium' gas is labled 98 octane which I take to be the equiv of 93-94 octane in USA (AKI vs. RON). It is also a buck a gallon

There is plently to read in forums about US spec cars versus local spec cars here talking about potential issues running at stock. Presume I'm comfortable about those stock differences. I am curious about impact of mods - in particular JB3.

I'd like to run mods that are easy to take back to factory like the JB3. Not planning any track or other intensive use. I've read the forums about heat (lots) but most refer to heat from intensive use and not just general hot climate. My first post so sorry if I don't ask this right or missed a previous good post (not for lack of trying).

1. Is there an ambient temp/humidity beyond which you would not use JB3 on maps other than stock? I don't expect to venture into race maps anyway.

2. Which other mods (eg, oil cooler, intake, exhaust) would be high priority to address high ambient temps?

3. The BMW Performance kit seems to have a lot of temp hardware, should I give up on JB3 and settle for this given the climate?

4. Any other related advice welcome.

[BahamaBart]

Nothing and I mean nothing manages engine temps like water/meth injection.
I live in Florida where it gets hot and whenever we get a cold front my dog is frisky and so are my cars (135i and Mini Copper S). Your cylinder temps will be below ambient !

Adding an additional oil cooler wouldn't hurt either.

Forget the rest

[SV Concepts III]

You will also want to invest in a Front Mounted Intercooler if you increase power. I also suggest a blow off valve as you increase boost with the software upgrade.

[Gogud]

Living a climate where temps are near 100 for about half the year, my concerns parallel yours somewhat. I suggest an incremental approach since on one knows how hard you will push your car. I am assuming that you prefer a simple setup that requires no special effort to keep working; one that only requires removing your tune when service is necessary. Further, if your dealer is like many in the US, and maintaining your warrantee coverage is important to you, staying with factory approved, or at least OE appearing parts, may be desirable.

From the design of the Performance Power Kit, we see that the coolant temp is the key factor in handling the heat from higher output. Ther Perf P. kit should be the starting point. The unknown--will the perf software and the JB3 (or any tune) work well together? Even if they will, running a high boost map in 110 degree weather with the AC on full blast may be more than the Perf hardware can handle. In that case, replacing the core of the main radiator with a deeper one may be the best next step. A larger intercooler should also help. The X6 uses a larger IC with the N54. They look almost identical except for the height. This may be the best bet IF it is a bolt on fit an if the whole thing is open to airflow when on a 135. There was a thread on it a while back. Technically, changing the radiator core and the IC could be the cause of warrantee problems, but if everything looks stock, how likely would it be for a tech to start measuring the parts and exclaining, "Uh oh, your radiator core is slightly deeper than it should be and your intercooler is taller than spec"? If you substitute aftermarket parts that are obviously different, that would more likely warrant a close look and raise questions. Since you are in an extreme environment, you might want to consult your dealer and get his feedback.

After coolant upgrades, the next thing to check is oil temp. If it stays below 300, the stock cooler is fine. Over 300 and a larger cooler is called for. If you will be doing much sitting in traffic or travelling slowly, a vented hood might help, but who knows how much? If none of the changes are enough and you still insist on running a high boost map in very hot weather, water/methanol injection should do it. You will have plumbing, electrical connections, a pump, and a reservoir (unless you use the windshield waster container) that will need to be removed or hidden when you take it in for service.

A couple of things to avoid: An open element air filter and a bov. In cooler climes, you can get away with a open element. Where it is hotter than blazes you won't want the even hotter under hood air to be drawn into the engine. Keep the stock intake. The N54 has a well engineered closed system that handles changing boost conditions well. Adding a bov is like lipstick on a pig! Parts sellers in the business to sell parts. Judging from posts here, emotion plays a larger part in the decision to mod than logic for many owners. Use your own discretion here.

However you decide to proceed, please post your results so the whole community can benefit.

[rock1t]

Good thread... Good Feedback
Bump