135i Cooling ?

[thez99]

Originally Posted by ianf2002

I will try your suggestion of 0W40 oil and a 10/90 coolant mix of antifreeze/De-mineralized water with a bottle of Redline Wetter Water.

Any suggestions on easiest way to drain coolant?

Thats what I was wondering, but seems like the only way is by removing the FMIC, but I cant believe thats the only way..

I mean I dont have the ability to do that myself, gotta have my shop do it cuz I cant get my car up on a lift

[Groundpilot]

Does anyone know if PPK aux radiator that is tucked up into the drivers fender area(as Dackelone mentioned in post#6) will iterfere with brake cooling or wide front tires on a lowered 135i?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by ianf2002

I will try your suggestion of 0W40 oil and a 10/90 coolant mix of antifreeze/De-mineralized water with a bottle of Redline Wetter Water.

Any suggestions on easiest way to drain coolant?

For me it is easier to drop the FMIC and use the oem drain on the bottom of the radiator, it makes no mess.

Some have suggested disconnecting one of the lower hoses, that will make a huge mess and potentially give you a coolant shower if you are working on your back on your driveway.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by M3 09 AND135I 11

Does anyone know if PPK aux radiator that is tucked up into the drivers fender area(as Dackelone mentioned in post#6) will iterfere with brake cooling or wide front tires on a lowered 135i?

Yea, the PPK aux radiator is up in the driver's front fender area... Notice the driver's side air duct. You also need to relocate the horns for that space.






http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...38&hg=11&fg=95


Btw guys... GREAT thread!! Love the tech!

[1&done]

Originally Posted by GaryS

The part numbers are listed in post #10. Go to Tischer etc and you find them.

edit: oops, I gave the link at Tischer but I see it doesn't work. So just go there and search the part number.

Yes, they can all be purchased separately, the prices posted are from Dan w/ 20% already taken off.

I think a combo of HP's radiator and the BMW larger fan would be a really good setup...granted it fits....Harold?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by 1&done

Yes, they can all be purchased separately, the prices posted are from Dan w/ 20% already taken off.

I think a combo of HP's radiator and the BMW larger fan would be a really good setup...granted it fits....Harold?

When our radiator is finally finished it will be a direct replacement for the oem radiator.

The fan only helps in low road speeds. Once you get up to speed, the air flowing through the radiator will take over and.

[JCandMC]

...so my warranty expired and I'm tired of $120 oil changes...I got all my fluids from Redline and got to busting knuckles...got the a/c filter, air filter, oil and filter, tranny and the radiator was next...no draincock/petcock?? Could you share with us novices how to drain and fill the radiator on a 135i manual...that would be an '08 N54.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by JCandMC

...so my warranty expired and I'm tired of $120 oil changes...I got all my fluids from Redline and got to busting knuckles...got the a/c filter, air filter, oil and filter, tranny and the radiator was next...no draincock/petcock?? Could you share with us novices how to drain and fill the radiator on a 135i manual...that would be an '08 N54.

I think the draining isn't going to be so hard. Like Harold has said... you can either take off the lower coolant/radiator hose (and make a mess) or drop the intercooler and open the (drain)valve/screw.

What I have not seen anyone comment on is HOW to BLEED the cooling system. There is a bleed vent/screw built into the coolant exp tank. Do we just open it while the car warms up? Like in the old e36 motors? Or do we need to pressurize the cooling system and then bleed?

Also.. I assume we need to "back fill" the engine from one of the upper radiator hoses. What about the engine block drain screw? On my old e36 there was an engine drain screw under the headers/exhaust manifold. But we have turbos there and THAT is gonna be one PITA job to get up in there!

Dackel

[1Fasst1]

After reading all the comments,in IMO if you can wait on the upgraded radiator would be the best and cleanest solution. For those with newer vehicles and warranty conserns the PPK stage 2 with BMWs special pricing right now might be the best soluition for others.
BTW Harold in developing the radiator can you position a drain that does not require dropping the IC. As you know the larger Aftermarket FMIC would be more difficult than the stock one.

[icabod7]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

When our radiator is finally finished it will be a direct replacement for the oem radiator.

The fan only helps in low road speeds. Once you get up to speed, the air flowing through the radiator will take over and.

Very interested in this -- I'll definitely be buying your radiator when it's finished and a direct replacement for the OEM one.

[thez99]

Originally Posted by 1Fasst1

After reading all the comments,in IMO if you can wait on the upgraded radiator would be the best and cleanest solution. For those with newer vehicles and warranty conserns the PPK stage 2 with BMWs special pricing right now might be the best soluition for others.
BTW Harold in developing the radiator can you position a drain that does not require dropping the IC. As you know the larger Aftermarket FMIC would be more difficult than the stock one.

Not only that, its just a bitch to have raise the car, take off the fmic (after taking off the big ass undertray) and then getting to the coolant rather than it being an easier solution, specially for those without jacks or lifts at their disposal..

Course that is the way the car is built so I suppose there is no way around it

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

What I have not seen anyone comment on is HOW to BLEED the cooling system. There is a bleed vent/screw built into the coolant exp tank. Do we just open it while the car warms up? Like in the old e36 motors? Or do we need to pressurize the cooling system and then bleed?

Also.. I assume we need to "back fill" the engine from one of the upper radiator hoses. What about the engine block drain screw? On my old e36 there was an engine drain screw under the headers/exhaust manifold. But we have turbos there and THAT is gonna be one PITA job to get up in there!

Dackel

There is a bleeding procedure for the electric water pump. To start, fill the cooling system as well as possible with the engine off. After it stops taking coolant, turn the ignition to the on position without starting the engine. Set the temp to max, fan speed to minimum, and press the throttle to the floor for about 8-10 seconds. This puts the water pump into the bleeding procedure. It will gradually cycle the water pump on/off and increase the speed for the next 6-8 minutes. It shuts down about every 20 seconds and allows for aeration to settle/escape. Once the system is full and air free, put the cap on and your done. For best results, have the engine cold to ensure a proper fill level without heat expansion. There are other ways, but that's the recommended way to prolong the life of the water pump. enjoy 

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Bmw135er

There is a bleeding procedure for the electric water pump. To start, fill the cooling system as well as possible with the engine off. After it stops taking coolant, turn the ignition to the on position without starting the engine. Set the temp to max, fan speed to minimum, and press the throttle to the floor for about 8-10 seconds. This puts the water pump into the bleeding procedure. It will gradually cycle the water pump on/off and increase the speed for the next 6-8 minutes. It shuts down about every 20 seconds and allows for aeration to settle/escape. Once the system is full and air free, put the cap on and your done. For best results, have the engine cold to ensure a proper fill level without heat expansion. There are other ways, but that's the recommended way to prolong the life of the water pump. enjoy 

Thanks man! I learn something new every day here on this forum!

[thez99]

Originally Posted by BimmerEngineer

Water wtter has been prooven to not really work... It's waste... A cooler engine temp thermostat is the key...

Huh??

Funny how things like this have those who praise it with loads of good things to say and then a few people come along saying its all bullshit, blah blah, dont bother...

I kinda think this stuff does a pretty decent job at what it does, specially for the main way this engine keeps cool, i.e. radiator/water-cooled. I dunno wtf you're talkin bout with this cooler engine temp thermostat..but anyways

If you're gonna randomly spout bashings on a product that so far has pretty good reviews, better have some decent proof to back it up eh?

[Turbolader]

There are a lot of factors involved in theory (boiling temps, cooling coefficients, viscosity requirements) and so on.

Here is an actual test on a real car though:

http://www.turbomagazine.com/feature...s/viewall.html

Of note, pure water did better than the typical 50/50 mix, however only run that if your water pump ate your homework. When I'm out of warranty, Water Wetter will be one of (many) things I incorporate into my maintenance.

On a side note, and no, I haven't checked if we even have one, but changing the release pressure of the system (provided it can handle it) is another way to increase the boiling point.

[thez99]

Now theres some decent proof. Redline doesnt look like a waste to me

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Thanks man! I learn something new every day here on this forum!

No problem. If you read the water wetter bottle it shows a spec on results when added to a coolant mixture, vs water etc. There's not that much of a claimed difference. You can also read on redline's website. I added it and saw roughly a 7-10 degree drop in coolant temps. Which isn't much, but every little bit helps in the grand scheme of things. I have an ER oil cooler, to which I would love to add am external t-stat like the stett kit. I would have bought the stett kit, but got no response from them online initially. Then once I did they quotes me higher than retail an that they post in here. Wtf? So I asked to purchase separate components like the adaptor plate and t-stat and they dont sell things individually. So I'll pass. Thats the ideal setup tho. A nice 180 degree OC t-stat would be nice. I'm kinda surprised BMW motorsport doesn't make one like the cooler one for the S54. Hint hint someone! Haha glad to help out when I can guys...

[mcmn]

Originally Posted by ianf2002

Confirming that my temps seem lower with Castrol EDGE 0W40 vs the dealer's 5W40.
Usually after 20 mins of driving I would be just under the 120 mark, now at with Castrol EDGE 0W40 just on 105.

Have the same oil and can confirm. Only annoying factor about this oil, is I feel the car takes way too long to come up to a temp I feel comfortable going WOT on.

Keen to hear what you think of this and should i be worried going above 4500RPM when the guage has barely moved of 70?

FYI We're talking in Cel here.

[Groundpilot]

Originally Posted by ianf2002

Confirming that my temps seem lower with Castrol EDGE 0W40 vs the dealer's 5W40.
Usually after 20 mins of driving I would be just under the 120 mark, now at with Castrol EDGE 0W40 just on 105.

Is Castrol edge ow40 BMW approved? I know Mobil 1 OW40 is BMW approved and many ppl who track 135i use it.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by M3 09 AND135I 11

Is Castrol edge ow40 BMW approved? I know Mobil 1 OW40 is BMW approved and many ppl who track 135i use it.

Castrol makes MANY oils... you really need to read the back of the label to be 100% sure. IF it says: "BMW Long Life-1" or "BMW LL-1" you can use it in our cars. Just like Mobil-1 oils. Btw only the 0w40 Mobil-1(european blend) oil is BMW LL-1 rated. All their other oils are NOT!

The old Castrol Edge RS 0w40 was LL-4. You can use a LL4 oil in a car that requires LL-1. But NOT the other way around.

German Castrol Edge RS 0w40 LL-4. (this is the oil I use)


Here is the new German Castrol Edge FST 0w40, it is only a LL-1 rated oil. (so I can not use it over here in DE bc of teh low sulfur fuels we have, I need a LL-4 rated oil)

[e82n54]

I'm thinking about switching to 100% distiller water with 1 bottle of watter wetter just for my next track day. I'll then flush back to the recommended 50/50 coolant/water ratio when I get home. I'm in Texas so it's going to be really hot (100F or more). Has anyone done a coolant flush yet? How long does it take? Will this take forever?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Scuderia000

I'm thinking about switching to 100% distiller water with 1 bottle of watter wetter just for my next track day. I'll then flush back to the recommended 50/50 coolant/water ratio when I get home. I'm in Texas so it's going to be really hot (100F or more). Has anyone done a coolant flush yet? How long does it take? Will this take forever?

To drain the coolant you will need to remove the FMIC to access the drain at the bottom of the radiator. The laternative is pull the bottom hose off to drain the coolant.

You will never be able to drain all of the coolant out, but you will get most of it. Adding distilled water and Reline WW will give you the best chance to battle cooling overheating issues. You do not need to go back to 50/50 coolant/water mix if your winter temps don't go below freezing.