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      10-18-2015, 09:36 AM   #1
juanrikrdo
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Exclamation Help Please E87 year 2012 - Best replacement option for the OEM Head unit

Hi All,

First at all, I'm from Paraguay (sorry if I make some mistakes while I'm writing in English kkkk)

I have a bmw 1 series e87 hatchback 5 doors year 2012 and I would like to replace the OEM Head Unit. Can you recommend me the best option for my car?

What do you think about this brands?
Parrot Asteroid Smart
DINAVIN N6

The audio installer said me that I have to replace the HU to improve the audio experience. (Currrently I have parasit issues too)

Can you please Help me? Any help would be really appreciated.

Here are some pics of my current OEM HU and the mods I already have done to my vehicle.
The OEM Head Unit
http://postimg.org/image/8bz68yxix/

Audio system mods
http://postimg.org/image/iyy1tqu3v/
http://postimg.org/image/z3lnmtgbb/

Best Regards,

Juan Ricardo,

Last edited by juanrikrdo; 10-18-2015 at 09:38 AM.. Reason: Can not see the images
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      10-19-2015, 06:11 AM   #2
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Silly question, why do you want to replace the head unit? If it's just because you're upgrading the sound? Changing the head unit is not going to upgrade the sound much, you should consider getting an amplifier for your door speakers in addition to your trunk subwoofers.

If you are having parasitic draw issues it's not because of the current head unit, it's because you're installer has done something wrong.
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      10-19-2015, 06:49 AM   #3
juanrikrdo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Silly question, why do you want to replace the head unit? If it's just because you're upgrading the sound? Changing the head unit is not going to upgrade the sound much, you should consider getting an amplifier for your door speakers in addition to your trunk subwoofers.

If you are having parasitic draw issues it's not because of the current head unit, it's because you're installer has done something wrong.
Hi Reisf,

Thanks for reply,

The sound's installer said that he can not EQ with the OEM HU, that's why He needs to replace the OEM HU, besides the HU doesn't support RCA output and the remote.

Can I just use the current amp of the trunk subwoofers or amp of the the trunk speakers to upgrade the sound of my door speakers?

Best Regards,

Juan Ricardo,
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      10-19-2015, 05:46 PM   #4
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[QUOTE=juanrikrdo;18768551]
The sound's installer said that he can not EQ with the OEM HU, that's why He needs to replace the OEM HU, besides the HU doesn't support RCA output and the remote.



The EQ part is true, but you can get a harness that plugs in between the current connector in your car and the radio that will allow you to get RCA outputs. The remote output on your current head unit is pin 13 on the back, you can just splice into it.

If you're current sub amps aren't wired with the remote coming from this location, this is why you have a parasitic drain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by juanrikrdo View Post
Can I just use the current amp of the trunk subwoofers or amp of the the trunk speakers to upgrade the sound of my door speakers?
You could but it depends how many channels the amp has. For example, if you have a 4 channel amp, you could use 2 channels for the front door speakers, and the remaining 2 channels (bridged) for the subs.

Hope that helps.
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      10-19-2015, 06:00 PM   #5
juanrikrdo
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[QUOTE=reisf;18772395]
Quote:
Originally Posted by juanrikrdo View Post
The sound's installer said that he can not EQ with the OEM HU, that's why He needs to replace the OEM HU, besides the HU doesn't support RCA output and the remote.



The EQ part is true, but you can get a harness that plugs in between the current connector in your car and the radio that will allow you to get RCA outputs. The remote output on your current head unit is pin 13 on the back, you can just splice into it.

If you're current sub amps aren't wired with the remote coming from this location, this is why you have a parasitic drain.



You could but it depends how many channels the amp has. For example, if you have a 4 channel amp, you could use 2 channels for the front door speakers, and the remaining 2 channels (bridged) for the subs.

Hope that helps.
What a useful info!!

Do you have any pics about pin 13 on the HU's back, to show the guy who helps me with the sound mods?

Where can I find out the proper hardness that will let me get the RCA outputs?

About the Aftermarket HU, What brand of HU can I buy (fascia and connections included) to make a "plug & play" connection to avoid cutting the wires to make this modification?

I really appreciate your help!

Best Regards,

Last edited by juanrikrdo; 10-19-2015 at 06:08 PM.. Reason: add more questions
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      10-20-2015, 12:27 AM   #6
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Have a look at this http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...arrot+asteriod

Its the parrot steroid with the Janus Facia plate.

I don't have any pictures, but the wires on the back of the connector for the radio are numbers and you need the small and thin black wire in slot number 13. Tell your audio installer this and he should be able to figure it out.

Sorry i'm not to sure where you can get the harness, but it's called an "Amplifier integration harness" and should be specific for your car. If you go this way you will also need your car coded to allow the head unit to output low-level unamplified signals that can be amplified properly by an external amplifier.
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      10-20-2015, 07:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Have a look at this http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...arrot+asteriod

Its the parrot steroid with the Janus Facia plate.

I don't have any pictures, but the wires on the back of the connector for the radio are numbers and you need the small and thin black wire in slot number 13. Tell your audio installer this and he should be able to figure it out.

Sorry i'm not to sure where you can get the harness, but it's called an "Amplifier integration harness" and should be specific for your car. If you go this way you will also need your car coded to allow the head unit to output low-level unamplified signals that can be amplified properly by an external amplifier.
Hi Reisf,

I will search the "Amplifier integration wiring" specifically for my car (I hope to find it)
By the way, What do you mean about the car coded? Do I need my car coded even with the OEM HU? Or just I will need this if I replace the OEM HU for a aftermarket HU?

Do you have an external amplifier too on your 2010 e87?

Best Regards,
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      10-20-2015, 11:16 PM   #8
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Sorry sorry, car must be coded if you keep the stock head unit. Doesn't matter for aftermarket.
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      10-21-2015, 07:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Sorry sorry, car must be coded if you keep the stock head unit. Doesn't matter for aftermarket.
One more question (according other threads I saw), many people who want to upgrade the sound system have to move the OEM HU to the trunk in order to avoid some errors.

What will be the disadvantage to do this replacement's process? Will I have any other issues concerning this process?

Best Regards,
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      10-22-2015, 06:46 PM   #10
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Your gongs won't work, your PDC won't work, if you have bluetooth in your car that won't work (but i assume the new head unit will have bluetooth) and unless you have the right integration harness, the steering wheel controls won't work either.

All the data for these systems flow along the "CAN" bus. If you remove the head unit (you can think of it as a receiver for the CAN bus), then naturally these systems won't work.

For what it's worth, i really don't think you should replace the head unit. Many here have achieved fantastic sounding audio system still using the head unit. And if you get the right amp, it will have a HPF/LPF and gain control for each channel eliminating the need for an EQ on the head unit.
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      10-24-2015, 09:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Your gongs won't work, your PDC won't work, if you have bluetooth in your car that won't work (but i assume the new head unit will have bluetooth) and unless you have the right integration harness, the steering wheel controls won't work either.

All the data for these systems flow along the "CAN" bus. If you remove the head unit (you can think of it as a receiver for the CAN bus), then naturally these systems won't work.

For what it's worth, i really don't think you should replace the head unit. Many here have achieved fantastic sounding audio system still using the head unit. And if you get the right amp, it will have a HPF/LPF and gain control for each channel eliminating the need for an EQ on the head unit.
Yesterday a friend of mine helped me with the pin 13.

Now the amps "sleep" about 10 seconds after the OEM was turned off and they turn on when the car "wakes up" (sorry for the expression).

I'm still having parasitic draw. Searching for a RCA output adapter. I have found these products

Ground Zero adapter
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/grou...evel-converter

N-RHL2 adapter
davidnavone.com/product/n-rhl2-2-channel-50-watt-per-channel-line-output-converter

They say I would need one of these to convert the stereo output (high level) to a signal the amp can read(low level).

What do you think?

Best Regards,
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      10-26-2015, 02:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanrikrdo View Post
Yesterday a friend of mine helped me with the pin 13.

Now the amps "sleep" about 10 seconds after the OEM was turned off and they turn on when the car "wakes up" (sorry for the expression).

I'm still having parasitic draw. Searching for a RCA output adapter. I have found these products

Ground Zero adapter
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/grou...evel-converter

N-RHL2 adapter
davidnavone.com/product/n-rhl2-2-channel-50-watt-per-channel-line-output-converter

They say I would need one of these to convert the stereo output (high level) to a signal the amp can read(low level).

What do you think?

Best Regards,
How do you know you have a parasitic draw then? What are you using to determine this? Because if you now have the remote wired correctly, then its not the amp.

The ECUs in the car keep running for about 15 minutes after the car is turned off, so if you're checking the battery voltage in this time you are going to see a current draw.

I think you would want the middle harness:
http://technicpnp.com/product_purcha...eries_E82.html
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      10-26-2015, 05:51 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
How do you know you have a parasitic draw then? What are you using to determine this? Because if you now have the remote wired correctly, then its not the amp.

The ECUs in the car keep running for about 15 minutes after the car is turned off, so if you're checking the battery voltage in this time you are going to see a current draw.

I think you would want the middle harness:
http://technicpnp.com/product_purcha...eries_E82.html
About Parasitic draw, I still hear that annoying engine 😔
About the middle harness, Are they help me with the RCA outputs?

Regards,
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      10-26-2015, 06:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanrikrdo View Post
About Parasitic draw, I still hear that annoying engine 😔
Maybe i'm confused, a parasitic draw refers to an electronic device drawing current from the battery when it shouldn't be and will call cause the battery to drain out, leaving insufficient power to start the car the next day.

What issues are you having?
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      10-26-2015, 08:27 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Maybe i'm confused, a parasitic draw refers to an electronic device drawing current from the battery when it shouldn't be and will call cause the battery to drain out, leaving insufficient power to start the car the next day.

What issues are you having?
Sorry If my expression was wrong, I thought parasitic drawing refered to the alternator noise that comes from the amp. That noise is the current issue I'm having.

What about the middle harness? Can you kindly give me more details?
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      10-26-2015, 07:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanrikrdo View Post
Sorry If my expression was wrong, I thought parasitic drawing refered to the alternator noise that comes from the amp. That noise is the current issue I'm having.

What about the middle harness? Can you kindly give me more details?
You have a noise coming out of the amp? That doesn't sound too good. What do you mean by alternator noise? Do you mean like a buzzing sound? The amp shouldn't make any noise whatsoever.

About the harness, what are you trying to do? I need to know exactly what your setup is.

How many amps do you have?
How are your current subwoofers wired?
Where do the sound signals for the subwoofers come from?
Do you still want to use the underseat subwoofers?
Do you want an amp for all 4 speaker locations?
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      10-26-2015, 09:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
You have a noise coming out of the amp? That doesn't sound too good. What do you mean by alternator noise? Do you mean like a buzzing sound? The amp shouldn't make any noise whatsoever.

About the harness, what are you trying to do? I need to know exactly what your setup is.

How many amps do you have?
How are your current subwoofers wired?
Where do the sound signals for the subwoofers come from?
Do you still want to use the underseat subwoofers?
Do you want an amp for all 4 speaker locations?
Yes, like a buzzing sound.

How many amps do you have?
I have 2 amps one amp is a Rockford Fosgate T600-4 to move 2 kits T1652-S MID, the other amp is a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bd to move 2 subs Rockford Fosgate P3D4 10"

How are your current subwoofers wired?

Where do the sound signals for the subwoofers come from?
The sound signals come from the driver's underseat subwoofer.

Do you still want to use the underseat subwoofers?
I'd like to use the underseat subwoofers if possible.

Do you want an amp for all 4 speaker locations?
I'd like to use one the amp I've already purchased if possible.
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      10-28-2015, 01:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanrikrdo View Post
Yes, like a buzzing sound.

How many amps do you have?
I have 2 amps one amp is a Rockford Fosgate T600-4 to move 2 kits T1652-S MID, the other amp is a Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bd to move 2 subs Rockford Fosgate P3D4 10"

How are your current subwoofers wired?

Where do the sound signals for the subwoofers come from?
The sound signals come from the driver's underseat subwoofer.

Do you still want to use the underseat subwoofers?
I'd like to use the underseat subwoofers if possible.

Do you want an amp for all 4 speaker locations?
I'd like to use one the amp I've already purchased if possible.
Have you decided which head unit you are going to go with? the aftermarket or the stock one?
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      10-28-2015, 06:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Have you decided which head unit you are going to go with? the aftermarket or the stock one?
If I can upgrade the sound with the OEM HU I'd like to keep the OEM HU.

Best Regards,
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      10-28-2015, 08:31 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanrikrdo View Post
If I can upgrade the sound with the OEM HU I'd like to keep the OEM HU.
Of course you can. Send a contact request through http://technicpnp.com/contact.html and tell him exactly what you have and what you want to achieve and he will give you exactly what you need.
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      10-28-2015, 10:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
Of course you can. Send a contact request through http://technicpnp.com/contact.html and tell him exactly what you have and what you want to achieve and he will give you exactly what you need.
Thanks reisf, I will contact technicpnp.

As soon as I can get some news from them I'll post here.
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      02-25-2024, 10:31 AM   #22
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Hello mates!

I'm still having trouble with the upgrade of my OEM head unit.

I found this web page https://www.janus-design.net/english...-din/index.php but it doesn't work.

Does anyone who has resolved this upgrade on a 1 series e87 with double din?

I really appreciate your help!

Best Regards,
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