Mod advice for 2008 135i

[tyorll]

Terrific forum! So much great advice available. I was hoping to garner advice and up-to-date thinking on currently available mods for a 2008 N54 135i which will soon be out of warranty.

I have black coated twin tip exhausts (BMW OEM) which look great on the car, and don't particularly wish to change these as they look unreal. Certainly with black metallic paint, I don't want chrome tips - but I welcome any advice about this!

I was initially thinking the following:

1) Catless downpipes (in order to retain the black twin tip exhaust that is currently on the vehicle). However I don't really understand the difference in all the different types of exhausts and their potential gains to performance (ie: cat back/turbo back). I don't know much about potential downpipes either if people agree this is a decent approach to improving performance without changing the current look of my car but I saw these which looked ok (not sure about price)
Macht Schnell - 76.2mm (3.00”) Stainless Steel Catless Track Downpipes for N54 Variants

2) Current Procede or new JB4 (any true comparisons between these? I am in no rush to purchase, and am happy to wait if there are better options around the corner such as COBB tuning AccessPort (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472814).

3) aFe Dual Cone cold air intake.

4) ditch the run flats when the rubber wears thin and put on some decent tyres with a repair kit (small portable air compressor and puncture repair kit/can).

All advice/criticism is welcome! Thanks in advance.


EDIT:
Also had some additional thoughts re: coding. I have read some threads here and on bimmerpost re: coding to remove certain idrive messages, code digital speedometer into the trip computer etc... But no-one really talks about where to start. I have the appropriate software, but am not sure what cables I would need to interface with the 135i specifically ('08 model). Has anyone in Australia - Sydney had any success with this? And would anyone with relevant coding experience be willing to donate some time/meet up to trial this?

[Orlin]

Both Procede and JB4 are good products and offer very similar power gains. Procede had the edge in terms of features in the past because they used CANbus before BMS did however now the JB4 has it as well so I think there is no real difference. There will always be customers of each product that will tell you their product is better so if you are really concerned then just do what I did...get both

[MrBlonde]

Originally Posted by tyorll

..
1) Catless downpipes (in order to retain the black twin tip exhaust that is currently on the vehicle). However I don't really understand the difference in all the different types of exhausts and their potential gains to performance (ie: cat back/turbo back). I don't know much about potential downpipes either if people agree this is a decent approach to improving performance without changing the current look of my car but I saw these which looked ok (not sure about price)
Macht Schnell - 76.2mm (3.00”) Stainless Steel Catless Track Downpipes for N54 Variants

2) Current Procede or new JB4 (any true comparisons between these? I am in no rush to purchase, and am happy to wait if there are better options around the corner such as COBB tuning AccessPort (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472814).

3) aFe Dual Cone cold air intake.

4) ditch the run flats when the rubber wears thin and put on some decent tyres with a repair kit (small portable air compressor and puncture repair kit/can).
..

Have a read of my project thread which answers many of your questions and gives my opinions supported by facts.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=397086


The best value for money mod path goes like this:

1. PROCede (or JuiceBox equivalent)
2. Methanol Kit
3. Downpipes
4. Other boltons

1) Catless downpipes

Will give some power gains but a great kick in the pants for responsiveness. The third ranked mod IMO. Couple it with a full exhaust to get best benefits in power and sound. They all come with a black tip option, relax on the tip thing.

2) Current Procede or new JB4

Your number one mod for sure. Do not ask for honest opinions because PROcede vs JuiceBox vs Whathaveyou is a holy war. You have to do your own research and make up your own mind. You will struggle to get an unbiased opinion backed by facts. The truth is both these solutions produce great results. Perhaps read what other people have done and see what solution has been chosen by people you think have their shit together.

3) aFe Dual Cone cold air intake.

Forget it. The OEM airbox is better than all the aftermarket solutions in the real world, especially in a climate like Australia. Just my opinion (not humble). Also this mod stands out like dog's balls to the highway patrol should you be unlucky enough to be pulled over and have a vehicle inspection.

4) ditch the run flats when the rubber wears thin and put on some decent tyres with a repair kit (small portable air compressor and puncture repair kit/can).

Can't argue with that.

You didn't mention a methanol kit. This is a huge bang-for-buck mod too. Look into it. Specifically look into how easy it is to install, configure and run the methanol kit of your choice with the computer (tune) of your choice.

[tyorll]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

Have a read of my project thread which answers many of your questions and gives my opinions supported by facts.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=397086


The best value for money mod path goes like this:

1. PROCede (or JuiceBox equivalent)
2. Methanol Kit
3. Downpipes
4. Other boltons

...

Forget it. The OEM airbox is better than all the aftermarket solutions in the real world, especially in a climate like Australia. Just my opinion (not humble). Also this mod stands out like dog's balls to the highway patrol should you be unlucky enough to be pulled over and have a vehicle inspection.

You didn't mention a methanol kit. This is a huge bang-for-buck mod too. Look into it. Specifically look into how easy it is to install, configure and run the methanol kit of your choice with the computer (tune) of your choice.

I'll look into a methanol kit, but know nothing about them at this current time except that they exist.

If not a cold air intake, is it worth putting in a high flow filter (?BMS drop in)?

Is there much difference between exhaust types in terms of performance? ie: do the downpipes make the most difference? Or do you need a full turbo-back or cat-back to make the most of it?

[BBK]

Downpipes will make the biggest gain, mid pipes only slightly, and the back will only make a sound difference.

[MrBlonde]

Originally Posted by tyorll

I'll look into a methanol kit, but know nothing about them at this current time except that they exist.

If not a cold air intake, is it worth putting in a high flow filter (?BMS drop in)?

Is there much difference between exhaust types in terms of performance? ie: do the downpipes make the most difference? Or do you need a full turbo-back or cat-back to make the most of it?

This would be where you click the link for my thread and see the dyno sheet results for each mod step by step.

Here's a summary of the results from my car

Stock 187.9 rwkw
Stage 1: Computer 234.1 rwkw (+46.2 rwkw)
Stage 2: Computer + boltons 259.0 rwkw (+71.1 rwkw)
Stage 3: Computer + boltons + meth 291.3 rwkw (+103.4 rwkw)
Stage 4: Computer + boltons + dual meth + race fuel 296.1 rwkw (+108.2 rwkw)

So adding a computer gained 62 rwhp. Cost ~ $1,250
Adding full boltons gained 33 rwhp. Cost ~ $Many thousands.
Adding methanol kit gained 43 rwhp. Cost ~ $1,250
Using race fuel gained 6 rwhp. Cost ~ $10/litre plus tuning time

Notes:

o My computer is a PROCede.
o The methanol kit I use is the Vishnu/Labonte Methanol kit with two D04 nozzles. I run VP M1 methanol.
o I run the car exclusively on 98 RON pump unleaded.

o Boltons means:
+ AR Design downpipes (catless)
+ ER Intercooler (with CF shrouding)
+ ER Charge pipe with Tial blowoff valve (and two methanol bungs)
+ CP-E Full exhaust, no cats, no resonators with rear muffler

o I run OEM air intake and OEM filter as well as OEM oil cooler

'll look into a methanol kit, but know nothing about them at this current time except that they exist.

Now you know there's ~ 43 rwhp gained for about $1,250. Look into methanol kits, they offer a lot more power gains over FULL bolots for about a tenth of the price.

If not a cold air intake, is it worth putting in a high flow filter (?BMS drop in)?

In my opinion, forget air filter and air intakes. They don't make any more power. It's all marketing.

Is there much difference between exhaust types in terms of performance? ie: do the downpipes make the most difference? Or do you need a full turbo-back or cat-back to make the most of it?

The downpipes are where the gains are at. The rest of the exhaust is much less of a gain. I did not do a piece by piece comparison with dyno sheets in between, I just did all the boltons in one hit.

It depends how much money you've got to spend.

The value chain is clear: Computer - Methanol Kit - Downpipes .. and after that, go for your life depending on your wallet, knowing your gains are minimal.

[tyorll]

Originally Posted by BBK

Downpipes will make the biggest gain, mid pipes only slightly, and the back will only make a sound difference.

That's helpful BBK! I am quite content with the sound as it is, not too much drone while on the highway or whilst driving tamely about town. Great note when the pedal is depressed with a little more urgency.

If I was to install downpipes, and leave the rest as stock, what sort of error codes if any will this throw (if catalytic converters are bypassed) and is this important? Ways around this?

Also am I correct in thinking that cat-back exhaust means everything from catalytic converters back (ie: after downpipes), and turbo back means everything from turbo back (incl. cat converters)? Or have I misunderstood this?

[tyorll]

Cheers Kenny!
I read your thread earlier, but at the time got lost with all the jargon I didn't understand. Your summary here is very helpful though. I'll look at computer, and downpipes to start with then.

[MrBlonde]

Originally Posted by tyorll

..
If I was to install downpipes, and leave the rest as stock, what sort of error codes if any will this throw (if catalytic converters are bypassed) and is this important? Ways around this?

Also am I correct in thinking that cat-back exhaust means everything from catalytic converters back (ie: after downpipes), and turbo back means everything from turbo back (incl. cat converters)? Or have I misunderstood this?

If you install downpipes then either JuiceBox or PROcede has the check code covered. With PROcede you never see any errors and with JB there is an additional piece of hardware to sort it out (JuiceBox experts can add to this).

The descriptions of exhaust are a bit complicated at first! There are cats in the OEM downpipes but also a second pair of cats later in the exhaust.

Do some research and you'll soon understand the jargon: Turbo back. Cat back. Axle back. I recommend you take a look here for a start. Fiddle with the drop downs.

http://www.cp-e.com/content/bmw-135i-cat-back-system

[MrBlonde]

Originally Posted by tyorll

Cheers Kenny!
I read your thread earlier, but at the time got lost with all the jargon I didn't understand. Your summary here is very helpful though. I'll look at computer, and downpipes to start with then.

OK yeah sorry I was a bit impatient. I forgot when you first start on the path there's a lot to absorb! Take your time and ask away here, this group is friendly and knowledgeable and also down to earth.

[Hawkeye 135i]

Simply changing out the rft's improves things greatly. I'd get rid of the rft's without delay!

Also, what's the budget? Any purpose/objectives for the mods? Track or road use only?

[BBK]

MrBlonde, did you do the meth dyno after the boltons?

Is there a chance the meth gains wouldn't be so big if you only had a tune and no boltons? Just wondering if the $1250 spent on meth is actually going to give more power than adding downpipes alone for similar money.

[Orlin]

I often wonder if money was not an issue then would the $1000 high flow cated downpipes be a half decent jump over the stock ones? obviously its not as much bang for your buck over the cheaper catless ones but if insurance / warranty was your concern then I guess its the only option? would love to see some before and after dynos.

[tyorll]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye 135i

Simply changing out the rft's improves things greatly. I'd get rid of the rft's without delay!

Also, what's the budget? Any purpose/objectives for the mods? Track or road use only?

Road use - daily driver. Track day would only be once every blue moon with mates, but nothing serious. I would prefer a real sleeper on the road.

No limit on budget, but I am also realistic. Don't want to go and drop $10k worth of mods on it and then decide I would prefer to buy an M3 and start again from scratch =D

I chose the 135i over the M3 for looks and smaller agile car around the city.

[MrBlonde]

Originally Posted by BBK

MrBlonde, did you do the meth dyno after the boltons?

Is there a chance the meth gains wouldn't be so big if you only had a tune and no boltons? Just wondering if the $1250 spent on meth is actually going to give more power than adding downpipes alone for similar money.

Richard, yes I dynoed the methanol kit on top of full boltons, so there is a chance the meth kit gains alone would not be as high.

Having said that, the gains were with full boltons, not just downpipes (ie intercooler, charge pipe, full exhaust plus downpipes). I am confident that meth kit will give you superior gains compared to downpipes alone. But I do not have dyno sheets to back that up.

[ozzie135i]

Originally Posted by Orlin

Both Procede and JB4 are good products and offer very similar power gains. Procede had the edge in terms of features in the past because they used CANbus before BMS did however now the JB4 has it as well so I think there is no real difference. There will always be customers of each product that will tell you their product is better so if you are really concerned then just do what I did...get both

the only difference i know of between jb4 and proceede is that the proceede has a 'learning' feature. So it learns what is safe for your car and adjusts the tune accordingly. Is this right?

Also MrBlonde is probably one of the best people to give you advice on this. He not only puts the mods but he's tested them with a dyno (check his thread).

My mate had an afe intake, and its true about it sticking out. So you know, vishnu recommends atleast some type of mods with map2. Eg. afe intake + downpipes. Also if you want to get your car serviced its a pain in the ass to take off/on. What people won't tell you is how hard it is to get the back hose/front hose to sit properly on this. That all said, his normal temps were about 10-15c lower than they are with the stock intake... That says something? Also he said it took longer to warm up with the afe intake than it did with the stock intake.

[Orlin]

The Procede has always been very advanced and has autotuning, I can tell you from experience that this is a great product. In regards to the JB4, this caught my eye because of the hardware upgrade to the JB3 that replaces it's control box with a new much more technically capable box. The new box features 5x the processing power, 2x the memory, better signal conditioning, a more robust power supply and integrated CAN communications wich will allow this "learning feature" or AutoTuning as its known.

[mra]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

o I run OEM air intake and OEM filter as well as OEM oil cooler

Do you do any track days? I've seen a lot of guys with not as much power/mods hitting limp mode on the track so it's interesting you're still running the stock oil cooler.

[MrBlonde]

Originally Posted by mra

Do you do any track days? I've seen a lot of guys with not as much power/mods hitting limp mode on the track so it's interesting you're still running the stock oil cooler.

No this is my daily driver.

[Hawkeye 135i]

Originally Posted by tyorll

Road use - daily driver. Track day would only be once every blue moon with mates, but nothing serious. I would prefer a real sleeper on the road.

No limit on budget, but I am also realistic. Don't want to go and drop $10k worth of mods on it and then decide I would prefer to buy an M3 and start again from scratch =D

I chose the 135i over the M3 for looks and smaller agile car around the city.

I'd go tune, tyres and full exhaust then. More power, more noise, more grip and a better ride, for relatively little coin.

[chappy]

Originally Posted by ozzie135i

the only difference i know of between jb4 and proceede is that the proceede has a 'learning' feature. So it learns what is safe for your car and adjusts the tune accordingly. Is this right?

Also MrBlonde is probably one of the best people to give you advice on this. He not only puts the mods but he's tested them with a dyno (check his thread).

My mate had an afe intake, and its true about it sticking out. So you know, Vishnu recommends at least some type of mods with map2. Eg. afe intake + downpipes. Also if you want to get your car serviced its a pain in the ass to take off/on. What people won't tell you is how hard it is to get the back hose/front hose to sit properly on this. That all said, his normal temps were about 10-15c lower than they are with the stock intake... That says something? Also he said it took longer to warm up with the afe intake than it did with the stock intake.

I go with the Vishnu procede V5 you can play with different bhp settings on different maps on the go and also have a natural aspirated map as well which is different exhaust is much louder and very deep great sound that's 170 bhp and map 0 is stock bhp map1 is about 350bhp and map2 is about 400bhp depending on mods and of course map3 N/A Mode
I have the AFE Intake as well it takes a little more time to remove but i like the setup and looks.

[tyorll]

Also had some additional thoughts re: coding. I have read some threads here and on bimmerpost re: coding to remove certain idrive messages, code digital speedometer into the trip computer etc... But no-one really talks about where to start. I have the appropriate software, but am not sure what cables I would need to interface with the 135i specifically ('08 model). Has anyone in Australia - Sydney had any success with this? And would anyone with relevant coding experience be willing to donate some time/meet up to trial this?