how long does it take to warm up you 135i??

[UR25IO]

Originally Posted by Smiley1175

That is ridiculous. Get in, drive away.

Standard car, do what you like, it's designed for idiots and will take the punishment just about anyone can give it.
Modified car, have some mechanical sympathy, let it get to operating temps before you start opening it up. Along with more regular oil changes.

i do drive it, but know me with a heavy foot i kinda have to warm the car up first due to the fact i love punching the car out every now and then.. lol

[MrBlonde]

I just get in my cars and drive them. I don't hammer them until they are up to operating oil temp. The PROcede won't let me flog mine until it's warm anyway.

[CrustyNoodle]

Just to follow up on this thread, I now have my ScanGauge so I set it up to display coolant temp. I started the car from cold to see how long it takes for the coolant to warm up, here are the details:

Ambient temp: 32*C
Initial coolant temp: 27*C

Car started from cold (if you could call it that) and driven very very sedately.

Time to reach 80*C: 5 minutes
Time to reach 90*C: 6 minutes
Time to reach 100*C: 7 minutes

Time for oil temp to reach 90*C: 10 minutes.

So I'd say that the coolant does indeed come up to temp very quickly indeed!

[Alpine*]

Originally Posted by UR25IO

i do drive it, but know me with a heavy foot i kinda have to warm the car up first due to the fact i love punching the car out every now and then.. lol

The other thing you have neglected when warming up the engine whilst stationary is the gearbox and differential fluids. Assuming all is good cause you have warmed up the engine maybe a big fopar if the other oils/Lubs are cold when you give it a bit.

[ansch]

Originally Posted by ianf

Driving at too low revs & straining a cold engine is also bad .... IMO just get in & drive calmly, keeping it under 4k until it hits 80 degrees.

^^^ that


it's not rocket science... literally. It's not like launching a space shuttle

Production engines have a relatively high tolerance in the engine and designed for cold starts. (Australia is not cold compare to say North America) As oppose to F1 engines where they have to pump warm fluid through the engine to bring it up to temperature before even cranking it over.

[Jeef Beef]

I spend about the first 10 mins taking it easy until the needle moves from 70.

[UR25IO]

so what is everyone saying one here, is that its ok to drive cold.
from cold start- once the revs goes down should be good to drive but at low revs??

[MrBlonde]

Originally Posted by UR25IO

so what is everyone saying one here, is that its ok to drive cold.
from cold start- once the revs goes down should be good to drive but at low revs??

Press button, start driving car. No waiting, no delay.

[UR25IO]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

Press button, start driving car. No waiting, no delay.

Hahaha.. ok

[RaihaX]

Originally Posted by Jeef Beef

I spend about the first 10 mins taking it easy until the needle moves from 70.

Someone must have stolen Jeef's account!!!

[Jeef Beef]

need to stay away from here so I didn't buy anymore shit for the new year

as hard as I like to drive, I still offer some degree of mechanical sympathy

[Zuzu]

Originally Posted by MrBlonde

Press button, start driving car. No waiting, no delay.

Thank god, I'm not the only one..

[ItsHectic]

Yep, says in the manual to drive the car and dont wait for it to warm up, synthetic oil ftw.
I just keep it under 2.5-3k revs.
Takes about 15mins to warm up.

[RaihaX]

Originally Posted by Jeef Beef

need to stay away from here so I didn't buy anymore shit for the new year

as hard as I like to drive, I still offer some degree of mechanical sympathy

you need to catch up remember

Originally Posted by JustMe

Yep, says in the manual to drive the car and dont wait for it to warm up, synthetic oil ftw.
I just keep it under 2.5-3k revs.
Takes about 15mins to warm up.

Yeah I don't think any car manufacturer would make a car where you can't drive the car straight away

[Jeef Beef]

Originally Posted by RaihaX

you need to catch up remember



Yeah I don't think any car manufacturer would make a car where you can't drive the car straight away

Just looked at your sig...what the actual fuck. Midpipes. Cobb AP. CF interior trim.

You're dead to me.

[RaihaX]

Originally Posted by Jeef Beef

Just looked at your sig...what the actual fuck. Midpipes. Cobb AP. CF interior trim.

You're dead to me.

and p3 gauge

[Jeef Beef]

Originally Posted by RaihaX

and p3 gauge

Well I did make a decent amount of dough over the holidays..............

[RaihaX]

Originally Posted by Jeef Beef

Well I did make a decent amount of dough over the holidays..............

Dooooo ittttt

[CrustyNoodle]

Not sure that this is really the correct place to pose this question, or if I should actually start a new thread but here goes....

The 135 (mine's an N55 but I think the N54 exhibits the same behaviour) appears to have a normal coolant operating temperature of between 105*C and 110*C and an oil temp of around 120*C. AFAIK these are really quite high for normal operating temps but they are clearly the temps that BMW intended these engines to operate at. Our Q5 (OK it's a diesel but c'mon) has operating temps of around 90*C for coolant and < 100*C for oil which could still be considered quite high but substantially lower than the BM.

Many people note that with a bit of track work the temps of the 135 go quite a bit higher that those noted above and so people seem to be hell bent on adding additional cooling (both water and oil).

So the questions is... Has anyone tried to lower the target operating temps by using different thermostats or by altering the DME? And if so, what is the result? Or would attempting to run the coolant temp below the target 110*C stuff up the tune too much for anyone to worry about trying it?

Thoughts?