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      06-13-2012, 09:13 AM   #23
wan888
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Nice link and heads up on this effective mod. I personally think the 1M brake fades quite badly on track. The car is not that light for a 1 series ... and those brakes are better cooled otherwise can quite easily be cooked.

Talking about back plates .. why not just go for this set?

http://1m-raze.revozport.com/1mbrake_duct_kit.html





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      06-13-2012, 09:40 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wan888 View Post
Nice link and heads up on this effective mod. I personally think the 1M brake fades quite badly on track. The car is not that light for a 1 series ... and those brakes are better cooled otherwise can quite easily be cooked.
Talking about back plates .. why not just go for this set?
This is exactly what I was thinking of but I couldnt for the life of me remember where I saw it. How doe those compare in price to the 375/400 (i think) of the other plates posted?

Also any experience using a track pad on the 1M?

Edit:
They are MUCH more expensive than the Carbon ones previously posted. Even their FRP is considerable more. Taking this into consideration I would probably go with the ones posted by the OP...
From RevoZport
US$ 500.00 (FRP)
US$ 680.00 (Carbon)

Last edited by firechicken99; 06-13-2012 at 09:52 AM.
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      06-13-2012, 10:19 AM   #25
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The Revozport backing plates also mount the duct hose at the bottom making it easy prey for anything you might drive over. Probably makes routing easier but not very street friendly.

Still wondering if anyone has had any fade problems with non ducted race pads. I haven't had problems with PFC-01's but I'm running stock suspension with NT-05's.
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      06-13-2012, 11:08 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed View Post
The Revozport backing plates also mount the duct hose at the bottom making it easy prey for anything you might drive over. Probably makes routing easier but not very street friendly.

Still wondering if anyone has had any fade problems with non ducted race pads. I haven't had problems with PFC-01's but I'm running stock suspension with NT-05's.
Yeah espectially taking price into consideration it makes the bimmerwolrd ones look like a steal lol.

I will probably look into this setup in the future. For now I track maybe once a month and although I wasnt going as hard as a pro might, I was definitely putting work on my 1M brakes every 25 minute session and didnt have issues at NJMP Lightning.


TXmtrhed
How do you liek the PFC-01's? I am considering a track pad for my 1M. Do they dust a lot (concerned about some race pads that have corrosive dust that might damage my factory wheels!) any other pros/cons? Feel free to take to PM if needed!
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      06-13-2012, 12:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firechicken99 View Post

TXmtrhed
How do you liek the PFC-01's? I am considering a track pad for my 1M. Do they dust a lot (concerned about some race pads that have corrosive dust that might damage my factory wheels!) any other pros/cons? Feel free to take to PM if needed!
PM sent
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      02-05-2013, 11:52 PM   #28
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Neil, how did you attach the hose to the front bumper? Did you rivet in an aluminum duct to the bumper? That's what I'm considering doing.
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      02-06-2013, 12:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed View Post
The Revozport backing plates also mount the duct hose at the bottom making it easy prey for anything you might drive over. Probably makes routing easier but not very street friendly.

Still wondering if anyone has had any fade problems with non ducted race pads. I haven't had problems with PFC-01's but I'm running stock suspension with NT-05's.
Something you guys might want to look into as well.

When installing these brake cooling plates with the hose, you do need to think about whether you're just tracking your car or you do both street and sometimes track.

If your car is a permanent track car, then you should go for a bigger diameter and a plate that connects directly next to the brake disc on the side near the caliper. But I bet you don't have full lock to lock turning radius.

However, if you need that lock to lock turning radius, Revozport's cooling plates are positioned so that you have full turning radius without hitting the hose or the duct.
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      02-06-2013, 10:21 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue55 View Post
Neil, how did you attach the hose to the front bumper? Did you rivet in an aluminum duct to the bumper? That's what I'm considering doing.
Take a close look at the pix at the top of this thread.

The hose is butted up against the grill inside the bumper. I've added a couple of small cable ties to hold it there, but they're probably not needed.

Neil
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      02-06-2013, 02:39 PM   #31
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I ran my 2 1/2" ducts similarly to Neil but found that I had a hard time keeping the entry side positioned securely next to the grill. So I used a short length of aluminum tubing inserted into the end of the hose to keep it from collapsing and then secured the hose to a bracket with a hose clamp. It won't move if I have to remove the bumper cover.

Also, regarding the Revozport backing plates it looks like they only direct air to the rotor surface whereas the BW and Cantrel Motorsports plates direct the air more to the center of the rotor which will be more effective. Still don't like the way the Revozport ducts hang below the car either.
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      02-06-2013, 02:50 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed View Post
I ran my 2 1/2" ducts similarly to Neil but found that I had a hard time keeping the entry side positioned securely next to the grill. So I used a short length of aluminum tubing inserted into the end of the hose to keep it from collapsing and then secured the hose to a bracket with a hose clamp. It won't move if I have to remove the bumper cover.

Also, regarding the Revozport backing plates it looks like they only direct air to the rotor surface whereas the BW and Cantrel Motorsports plates direct the air more to the center of the rotor which will be more effective. Still don't like the way the Revozport ducts hang below the car either.
The Revozport design is all show and no go.

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      02-06-2013, 02:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDORPHN View Post
Take a close look at the pix at the top of this thread.

The hose is butted up against the grill inside the bumper. I've added a couple of small cable ties to hold it there, but they're probably not needed.

Neil
Thanks Neil. Can you turn the wheel fully with the hoses connected or do you disconnect them when not tracking?

Last edited by Blue55; 02-06-2013 at 03:09 PM.
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      02-06-2013, 03:54 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue55 View Post
Thanks Neil. Can you turn the wheel fully with the hoses connected or do you disconnect them when not tracking?
I can go lock-to-lock, but the tire will come in contact with the hose at the extremes.

I have couplers at the ends of the hose where it emerges in the wheel well that makes connecting/disconnecting the additional length of hose very quick and easy and I generally only run with them in place on the track.

Neil

EDIT: Link to 3" coupler from Coleman Racing http://www.colemanracing.com/Brake-H...Kit-P3531.aspx

Last edited by MDORPHN; 02-06-2013 at 04:02 PM.
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      02-06-2013, 06:17 PM   #35
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Awesome! Looks like I'll be the next one doing this ducting experiment. I just ordered the pieces. Hopefully I can look forward to less fried brakes and longer life in the near future.
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      02-06-2013, 10:13 PM   #36
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I would suggest using titanium heat shields for the brake pads too. Check out hardbrakes.com. They made a real difference in eliminating a soft pedal near the end of a track session (pre brake ducts).
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      02-06-2013, 10:39 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed View Post
I would suggest using titanium heat shields for the brake pads too. Check out hardbrakes.com. They made a real difference in eliminating a soft pedal near the end of a track session (pre brake ducts).
Yes. I also run them.

Neil
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      02-06-2013, 11:28 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed View Post
I would suggest using titanium heat shields for the brake pads too. Check out hardbrakes.com. They made a real difference in eliminating a soft pedal near the end of a track session (pre brake ducts).
Looks like an interesting product. Do you run the .5mm or 1mm version? Looks like it will be difficult to fit with new pads in place, but I guess they can be inserted after a session.
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      02-06-2013, 11:38 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue55 View Post
Looks like an interesting product. Do you run the .5mm or 1mm version? Looks like it will be difficult to fit with new pads in place, but I guess they can be inserted after a session.
I run the narrower gauge (0.5?) ones and have been able to fit them with new PFC-08 pads.

Neil
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