Magnetic camber tool

[Mandinca]

OK, so I keep seeing these magnetic tools pop up on my social media feeds and I wondered how they would work. They say that you should jack the car, remove the rim, then attach the tool by it's magnetic base to the brake rotor.
So my questions are, does the suspension need to be loaded for camber angle to be calculated ?
Or, does the geometry of the linkage ensure that the camber angle never changes if the suspension is under load or not ? Ie, can I jack up the car and put it on stands and the camber angle will be the same as it was when the car was resting on it's own wheels ?

[1and1]

Safe worthless answer is to check with the tool manufacturer. I can't see trusting an alignment tool that tells you to jack up the car and pull the tire...

For my 2cents, always align with the suspension under load and at normal ride height. Heck if you want to get super accurate toss a person, or a few sand bags, in the drivers seat too.

For that matter I can make a better tool for less money than the one you pictured I bet- I've got steps handy for one some place.....


you'll need the following materials from your favorite racing supply house (Home Depot) - about $14.
3' stick of 1/2"square tubing
Three 2" long 1/4x20 philips head screws
Three 1/4x20 nyloc nuts
Three 1/4" flat washers
Three 1" long, 1/4" dia aluminum spacers (or sleeves)

Cut the square tubing into a 10" piece and a 20" piece. Weld the long piece to the center of the short piece at right angles.



Drill 1/4" holes 3/4" from each end of the short piece. Assemble screw thru the spacer and square tubing and secure with a flat washer and lock nut.


Set the two lower stand-offs on the rim and mark the location for the upper hole. You can drill a hole for 18", 17", 16" rims and just move the stand-off.

The jig is held to the wheel with a 6" bungie. The digital level with magnetic base is from Sears - $30.

[Mandinca]

The stand-offs all have to be exactly the same height, correct ?

[1and1]

yup-
those are the three 2" long screws in the parts list, used to get the jig touching the wheel, but clear of the tire or parts of the wheel that may prevent the tool from being true to the wheel.

[Mandinca]

OK, thanks for the ideas. I saw a video on you tube that described something similar to this and they emphasized the importance of the stand-offs all being the same height measured from the square tubing. Thinking about it I can see why.

[1and1]

Yeah, there are several variations on this theme- the trick is to be square to the wheel/hub face, and to zero the level to the road surface, which is itself hopefully pretty level.

This tool is from a great race prep thread for a Mazda 6, honestly worth a read if you have time, great guy, experienced and entertaining writing style.

DIY alignment tool post - clicky-clicky

Full thread - Prepping as a dedicated track car

[iminhell1]

This is the alignment thread that should be the end all,
Front --> http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=23
Rear --> http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=956039

People seem to neglect to talk about the most important thing about 'alignment', that it's dynamic. Static settings only work if you are at the same ride height as the person giving the advice. Settings for a stock suspension car are easy because they are all the same. Once you change those parts the game changes.
Just keep that in mind.