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11-07-2012, 02:22 PM | #1 |
Flatlander
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Acceleration from stand still terrible with run flats
I have a stock 2008 135i.
It has 2nd generation bridgestone run flats. I have not owned this less then a year. Most of the roads where I live are in bad shape. When accelerating from a stand still on these main roads in 1st and 2nd gear, I can't go anywhere near wide out. The tires hit the cracks and bumps and it slams the drivetrain. It feels like wheel hoop but only when it hits not perfect concrete. It feels horrible. Traction control does not kick in until its so sever, it feels like I'm damaging the car. My guess is its the run flats, however could it be the suspension or lack of a LSD? As its became colder outside it is getting worse. Now every basic commuter car can out accelerate me to 40mph, when they floor it from a stand still. Not until 40+mph will the car hook up and smoothly go. I used to have an E39 M5 with michelin PS2s and it never had this problem it would accelerate hard over any bad road surface. Would getting non run flats fix this? Taking off hard from a stop light is one thing I look forward to every time I get in my car. |
11-07-2012, 02:29 PM | #2 |
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Not an answer, but I've never experienced such a thing with my runflats. I'm on 2012 Dunlops though. I can WOT with very limited slip, if any, unless I'm dumping the clutch of course.
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11-07-2012, 04:32 PM | #3 |
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Me neither, I bought a brand new set of Potenza run-flats this summer and they're all good, car takes off like a bat out of hell even on rough pavement(makes for a bumpy ride though) I like a stiff tire and the roads here are great so no problem there. My only beef is that rear tires don't last long, I got 18k miles out of my first set.
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11-07-2012, 04:46 PM | #4 |
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Your stiff stock suspension is my bet, I have the same issue on normal tires over crappy pavement.
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11-07-2012, 08:52 PM | #6 |
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run flats always have worse grip than non runflats
suspension setup bouncing... no LSD not letting traction go where it's needed all of the above.. |
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11-08-2012, 08:56 AM | #8 |
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Ages ago, I got only about 15K on my Pirelli P6s... But they stuck like glue.
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11-09-2012, 02:38 PM | #9 |
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Since tread design is more important than sidewall stiffness, this is
simply not true as there are many different makes and models of both RFTs and go-flats. Faulal, have you double checked tire pressures and measured the rear tires' tread depth? Tom |
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11-10-2012, 11:37 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
It's not just a stiff sidewall, it's a hard compound It's 100% not possible for the best rft to compare to a good non-rft. |
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11-11-2012, 12:10 AM | #11 |
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Just something to think about - a bald tire may give more grip in the dry. Obviously dangerous in the wet. Kinda like slicks. Anyone care to confirm?
Edit: actually not like slicks - they are made of a stickier compound. Our dailies are not - what I'm getting at is that a bald tire has more surface area contact with the road than a new threaded one, hence the increase in grip. |
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11-11-2012, 07:08 AM | #12 |
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When my original run-flats were getting bald I thought the traction might get better, but the traction actually was much worse - just theway you desribe it. I went to non run-flats, frist star specs and now pilot SS and the ride quality is much smoother. No more banging on pot holes and cracks. The only minor down side is that the initial turn in was slightly sharper with the stiff sidewall run-flats.
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11-12-2012, 12:09 PM | #13 |
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RFTs are a love and hate relationship. I love their convenient factor when you live in a state where its hot/humidity/rainy and you do not want to deal with putting the spare on your way to work.
I have the same issue with my RFTs on a stock suspensio, I can not do any WOT on 1st. I know JB4 has an option to limit the boost on 1st that I thinking can be helpful in this situation but I did not have time to play around with it.
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