Rear Pads and Rotors Replacement ?

[Segments]

Hey guys, so I recently changed my front rotors and pads, and the rears started squeaking so it's that next. I know everything is smaller on the rears, but i don't know what differences there are in the process as opposed to the fronts. I've seen just about every thread here about it; most dealing with fronts, but I do know there are some differences. If possible, can someone outline any different parts I might run into, as well as all tools needed ? Thanks a lot guys.
-Dan

[Freon]

The rears slide in, you don't remove the caliper from the knuckle.

Pull the two pins out (you may need to tap them out from the inside/back with a punch to get them started, then press on the clip and they'll slide out by hand, or wrap the end with a rag and use pliers if they're stuck, and/or use some WD40)
Pull the pad level sensor out carefully. Mine was stuck pretty good, had to use some WD40.
Pull out the spring clip, it will come out fairly easily once the pins are gone. Just a bit of sticky due to brake dust.
Pull out old pads.
Push pistons in for clearance just like the fronts.
Grease the back of your new pads, slide them in.
Replace clip.
Replace pins.

Avoid getting WD40 on the rotors and pads.

[Prolifik]

How do you reset the service warning for the pads?

[dcaron9999]

Freon summarized it well. Rear pad replacement is actually simpler and quicker than the fronts, as calipers do not need to come off the bracket. Simply use a punch tool to push the guide pins half way in (outside to inside), then do the rest by hand.

I like to clean the area where the pads contact the calipers with a tooth brush and brake cleaner. I then use copper grease (high temp), to lay on a very thin coat of grease on all contact points.

I dont use my brake sensors anymore, and tie wrapped them out of the way, because I track my car, and service my brakes up to 4 times per year. Im allways aware of my pad wear status through visual inspection through the wheel spokes. I replace them when the pad media reaches/approaches the same thickness as the pad backing plate.

[Dilmorecg]

Originally Posted by Freon

The rears slide in, you don't remove the caliper from the knuckle.

Pull the two pins out (you may need to tap them out from the inside/back with a punch to get them started, then press on the clip and they'll slide out by hand, or wrap the end with a rag and use pliers if they're stuck, and/or use some WD40)
Pull the pad level sensor out carefully. Mine was stuck pretty good, had to use some WD40.
Pull out the spring clip, it will come out fairly easily once the pins are gone. Just a bit of sticky due to brake dust.
Pull out old pads.
Push pistons in for clearance just like the fronts.
Grease the back of your new pads, slide them in.
Replace clip.
Replace pins.

Avoid getting WD40 on the rotors and pads.

I just did mine about a week ago. Its pretty easy, just follow these steps for the pads. You will need to take the calipers off to replace the rotors. They are a little more difficult to pull off the hubs than the fronts because the e-brake is a drum brake inside the rear rotor so remember to disengage it. Just give it a little muscle and it will come off.

[Prolifik]

Yes I've done all that successfully. How do I reset the warning on I drive for oil and rear pads? I can't figure it out

[Iron Man]

Originally Posted by Prolifik

Yes I've done all that successfully. How do I reset the warning on I drive for oil and rear pads? I can't figure it out

Look in the "sticky" section. Dackelone goes through it step by step and it is very easy.

[Prolifik]

Thank you. I must of missed that post. I'll try find it now.

[mechavore884]

its pretty staightforward (as others have stated) I was able to do both front/rear rotors and pads in a couple hours

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...Brake_Pads.htm

that article helped me out as an initial guide (close enough per say)