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08-14-2014, 03:13 PM | #45 |
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Wikipedia lists the N54 engine as 75lb heavier. I seriously couldn't feel that difference in the handling. The car weight differences come from standard equipment differences which BMW listed as less than 200lb which includes sunroof/xenon/18in wheels/larger brakes etc. The two cars ultimately don't handle very differently. At the end of the day drive both and decide, if both put an equal smile on your face think with your wallet, if not you will know for sure which one to take home.
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08-15-2014, 12:56 PM | #46 |
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The N55 engine is even lighter than the N54 since it has an alunimum block and one turbo.
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08-15-2014, 09:18 PM | #47 |
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Ok, so I've decided on a 135i because I think the power is more to my liking at this point. I'm deciding on a performance tune though for when I get it.
I'm looking at AA, Cobb, or a JB4 tune. The AA tune is pretty midrange at about 1k for the programmer and tune, but it's very popular and gets good feedback albeit not the most aggressive tune out there. Might be nice as a healthy upgrade for a daily driver car which occasionally has above average levels of fun. The Cobb tune comes with a programmer, high flow air filter, and upgrade intercooler in a nice package, but it's expensive as hell at 1800k. The JB4 is the cheapest of the lot, but also supposedly the most aggressive, and supposedly not street legal. I know people drive around with them in the car though, is this something that you can get in trouble for realistically speaking? I feel like "who is ever going to find out", but still. The JB4 is a physical modification and as such, can't be flashed on the fly. I've heard people talk about these physical mods saying they're not "real" tunes, and only serve to trick the ECU into outputting the wrong power data and such, and that a real tune is a better idea in the long run because it's safer for the engine. I'll add that what I'm primarily looking for in a tune is: a. aggressive acceleration (no from-stop hesitation, instant power response) b. midband power optimization (doesn't need to get into high revs to produce power) c. something that is equally at home being a daily driver vehicle or aggressive race vehicle, balance is key |
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08-16-2014, 12:08 AM | #48 |
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I guess you'll be changing your username, huh?
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08-16-2014, 08:17 AM | #50 |
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Weren't you worried about maintenance?? Have you driven a 135 yet?
I ask because why not drive it for a while first and then decide what type of performance you want out of it. You may find that it is fast enough without tuning. Then when you get bored with the stock power look into the tune that suits your needs. I have had mine for a few months now, I feel it is plenty fast as it is stock. I may want a cobb down the road but I just don't want to wear my car out quicker. I plan on keeping it for a while. Doing small things like adding an exhaust or some nice looking wheels keeps me busy and loving my car.
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08-16-2014, 02:41 PM | #51 |
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Gotta agree. The 135i is VERY fast stock (as in, rarely even usable excess power). Unless you're a track guy, auto-Xing, etc., a power-boost tune would almost never get used. Better to spend mod-money on other things, IMO. I'm gonna start with a clear bra, and maybe tint. Then maybe a seat cover and armrest cover/pad... That's all I can think of that makes sense at the moment.
The 128i, in a way, would be more fun to mod with performance stuff, since you'd probably see a greater return/difference.
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08-16-2014, 03:25 PM | #52 |
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Tires,Brakes,Suspension,and exhaust. Then cosmetic stuff like tint. You won't regret it. I went that route. Spent my money where it counted and in return I have a very fast track car for the Nurbergring when I go (I lives in the motherland) and a nice looking daily when I don't that nets me an average of 22 MPG on the Autobahn averaging 100 MPH everywhere!
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08-16-2014, 06:13 PM | #53 | |
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I think you could learn w/o taking too much life off the clutch - the 128 to me is intolerable w/ the auto, but is super fun w/ the MT [and i look forward to modding her over time = more fun]... as previous post said, just don't rest your foot on the clutch/ride it and you will be fine. In saying that I have never owned an auto and learned how to drive a stick on an accord - never looked back.. The BMW clutch is NO WHERE near as stiff and the Mustang - I hate Mustang clutchs as they are super stiff and have a very precise engagement point which means it is very easy to stall esp if you have never driven a MT before... The 128 has hill hold - esp nice if you aren't used to the MT and a trick to learn to do w/o - Two very different cars and the transmission config makes a difference in how it will perform - |
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08-16-2014, 10:42 PM | #54 |
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Go with the 135 because if you don't you will wish you had. I have had a stick for my weekend car for a long time. Had many muscle cars, 69 Roadrunner, 66 Mustangs, 67 Camaro, 72 Nova to name a few. Most built by me. I only just went Euro, last car was a newer muscle car. 2008 Mustang blown GT with 600 Hp and 550 ftlbs tq at the crank.
My 135 is an Auto cause I wanted a change and I can tell you in the 135 when put into manual mode, it shifts like a stick. Just my 2 cents, I would get the auto... |
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08-16-2014, 11:29 PM | #55 |
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Once you get a 135i just drive it stock for a while until you get bored and want more. That is what I did and the car was fun stock, took it to the local 1/4 mile track for the hell of it and ran a 13.7 @ 102mph, not fast but considering I am a novice at the 1/4 and was still beating mustangs and a couple LS cars, I won't complain. Now that I have jb4 and a couple bolt ons I can't wait to see what it will do.
Just think of a 135i as a good start with a lot more potential later on. And as for the tune on DD question, I daily drive mine with the mods listed in my sig. The car drives great, especially after the CDV delete.
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08-17-2014, 01:10 AM | #56 | |
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New Car: 2019 Porsche 718 Cayman GTS | Stock for now Old Car: 2013 BMW 128i | 6MT | BMW Performance Grills | CDV Delete | SSK | Performance Exhaust | M3 RSFB | TCKR DA |
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08-17-2014, 05:58 AM | #57 | |
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The 128i is far from being an underpowered car. All the fun of the 1series, but arrives at take-me-to-jail velocities a second or two later than a 135. Based on my experience with the 135is, the total amount of time I spend at WOT is miniscule... with the 128i I would still have 99% of the enjoyment of my car. I'm not gonna lie... the low end torque and loads of power are fun and addicting, but in my daily commute I have few opportunities to open her up.
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08-17-2014, 06:15 AM | #58 |
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You honestly cannot go wrong either way. I loved my 128i. The 135i just suits my driving style alot better (German Autobahns on the daily and the Nurbergring once a month). Just pick the one you like the most.
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08-17-2014, 06:19 AM | #59 |
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My 135 always has issues. I am not mechanically inclined, best thing I can do is install an intake. I am always hearing something, thinking something, asking people on here if something sounds normal.
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08-17-2014, 07:56 AM | #60 |
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Hey gang-still new here... What is "CDV Delete"?
Thanks!
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08-17-2014, 08:38 AM | #61 |
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Clutch Delay Valve removal.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209440
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08-17-2014, 08:49 AM | #62 | ||
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European driving is an order of magnitude more intense than American/Canadian driving, and they learn how to drive stick as a matter of course...
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08-17-2014, 09:31 AM | #63 | |
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08-17-2014, 09:34 AM | #64 | |
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08-17-2014, 12:42 PM | #65 | |
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I don't know either but it does mean that most [if not all] people will never ever even be able to drive my car which is a plus - can i drive it, well you could but it is a stick! When I learned to drive it was a MT Accord or an Auto minivan - it was a no brainer decision.. I don't get it either but it seems to go with the American - i don't need to look before i change lanes or check my tire pressure EVER or think - lazzie fair driving style which annoys the shit out of me and is why I usually try to pass those doofuses and get far far away from whatever shit is gonna get wrecked by not paying attention while driving.. - sorry, off my soap box - but one more convert to the MT camp! |
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08-17-2014, 01:10 PM | #66 |
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Not to be defensive but really? Why would there be a difference between driving an auto on a hard top compared to a vert? With my vert I am sure I can out drive most of the people that have hard top's. Auto's suck no matter what car you have IMO.
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