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      Yesterday, 05:26 PM   #7811
asiflicious
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Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
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Originally Posted by asiflicious View Post
Thank you! However I'm definitely going to go with a helical diff so a lot of the downsides mentioned won't apply to me. With that, how big of a problem is the wheel lift situation? At the same price, is the Wavetrac a better option than the m factory helical? I was leaning more towards the m factory because they seem to be more active on the platform and their name has "M" in it
It's not a huge problem, unless you have a super stiff rear sway bar, or are jumping curbs everyday

They're both (reportedly) great diffs, however, the MFactory can (again, reportedly) transfer more torque between wheels than the Wavetrac, but doesn't have the Wave-lock device to reduce the one-wheeling problem.
I'm doing subframe bushings, LSD, springs and dampers, m3 front control arms, and FSB all at the same time. I know people say you should do each incrementally but I don't have the patience. It's going to feel like a completely different car
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      Yesterday, 06:50 PM   #7812
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Doing one thing at a time is probably preferred, but then, in your case, you'd be taking your car apart many times. I say shotgun that bad boy, then just do one adjustment at a time.
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      Yesterday, 07:03 PM   #7813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asiflicious View Post
Thank you! However I'm definitely going to go with a helical diff so a lot of the downsides mentioned won't apply to me. With that, how big of a problem is the wheel lift situation? At the same price, is the Wavetrac a better option than the m factory helical? I was leaning more towards the m factory because they seem to be more active on the platform and their name has "M" in it
I believe the mfactory diff is more popular since it is cheaper. Certainly here it's a few hundred dollars more to get the wavetrac.

They're also quite active (or at least were) on the e90 forums, so I'm guessing that helps.

Honestly, (on reflection) I'm not convinced that the whole one-wheel issue isn't just wavetrac marketing. If you google it, you'll find a lot of discussion about the issue, but not one single first or second-hand account of anyone blowing up their mfactory or quaife on the track. In a static situation (ie. you've got one wheel in the air and you'd like to drive away) it's as simple as applying the handbrake. In fact, if you don't disable your e-diff, it's going to protect you from the one-wheel issue all on its own.

The key reason you don't see too many helicals on dedicated track cars are (1) that all the issues that plague plate diffs on the road are never experienced on the track. And (2) that plate diffs are more predictable in their behaviour.

There's an issue (about helicals) I've heard about that doesn't get much discussion - which is "how is the power split across the back when you've got very little traction". This is where you need to be clear about your goals. A helical will put most of the torque to the wheel with the most grip. That's awesome for road use - you've got no traction, it finds traction and gives it to you the best way it can. But it's not awesome if you want to hang the back out and bring it back on your own.

If the left wheel has more grip, then the right wheel suddenly has more grip, your power is instantly moved from the left back to right back. So if you're drifting, a helical can be squirrelly and unpredictable.

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Originally Posted by Suprgnat View Post
I have a 3-clutch, 35-60 1.5-way from Diffsoline. It has been silent for ~16k miles so far.

The 1.5-way is much better than the 1-way regarding snap-oversteer.

Per Dan at Diffsonline: "we recommend changing the fluid every 24K miles in a street driven car, or every 12K miles in a car that sees autocross and track day use." Doesn't seem so bad, but I only rack up <8k miles per year in the 1er. Heck, I change it annually.
Thanks! I was given nothing in terms of what I should do to maintain it when I put mine in, and was looking for some good authoritative advice on maintenance. I've been mostly going on what the skyline forums say
I was planning on just doing it annually with the service, since, like you, I don't do a lot of miles each year. I've had mine in for 6 months and it's still done less than 5k miles.
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      Yesterday, 07:07 PM   #7814
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If your master cylinder can't handle pump-n-hold it needs to be replaced anyhow. It's not any harder on the system than stepping hard on the brakes.

Just sayin... It happens.
And when bleeding the piston does travel further than when stepping hard on the brakes- causing the 0-ring to travel beyond the swept area.



You're rebuilding a 63 Healey, why are we even discussing this! You've gotta know all this old school stuff
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      Yesterday, 07:16 PM   #7815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Just sayin... It happens.
And when bleeding the piston does travel further than when stepping hard on the brakes- causing the 0-ring to travel beyond the swept area.



You're rebuilding a 63 Healey, why are we even discussing this! You've gotta know all this old school stuff
It's a '64.

I do the bleeding, therefore I control the stroke of the piston.
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      Yesterday, 08:59 PM   #7816
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Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
As rowsdower was saying, I'd bleed the caliper before changing the pads, so you don't put old fluid back into the res, and probably bleed it excessively to be sure you get that fresh SRF through the lines.
You have that backwards. I would do the pads first because you have a known amount of fluid in the system from the last time you changed pads, and so even with the pistons pushed back into the calipers, the reservoir should not overflow. If you bleed first, you will have to remember to leave the fluid level at the bottom of the reservoir before you change the pads. Otherwise you would overflow when you push the pistons into the calipers. Then after you do the pads you have to add more fluid again. It just makes no sense to bleed first, I'm not seeing any benefit but the potential for a big mess if you're forgetful like me.
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      Yesterday, 08:59 PM   #7817
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      Yesterday, 10:19 PM   #7818
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      Yesterday, 10:50 PM   #7819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xQx View Post
There's an issue (about helicals) I've heard about that doesn't get much discussion - which is "how is the power split across the back when you've got very little traction". This is where you need to be clear about your goals. A helical will put most of the torque to the wheel with the most grip. That's awesome for road use - you've got no traction, it finds traction and gives it to you the best way it can. But it's not awesome if you want to hang the back out and bring it back on your own.

If the left wheel has more grip, then the right wheel suddenly has more grip, your power is instantly moved from the left back to right back. So if you're drifting, a helical can be squirrelly and unpredictable.
This is what makes me really want the 1.5-way, moreso than the Wavetrac. Im really on the ropes about this one! I think I can deal with the daily issues (not really issues, though) with a clutch diff, and I really want the enjoyability and predictability of the clutch diff. The two things that lean me to a helical (Wavetrac, for me at least) are maintenance increases (I really enjoy working on the car, though), and the possibility that I cant deal with the clutch-types issues. Its hard to spend so much money and run the slight risk of wanting more, or wishing that I could do what the other guy can...
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      Yesterday, 10:58 PM   #7820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
This is what makes me really want the 1.5-way, moreso than the Wavetrac. Im really on the ropes about this one! I think I can deal with the daily issues (not really issues, though) with a clutch diff, and I really want the enjoyability and predictability of the clutch diff. The two things that lean me to a helical (Wavetrac, for me at least) are maintenance increases (I really enjoy working on the car, though), and the possibility that I cant deal with the clutch-types issues. Its hard to spend so much money and run the slight risk of wanting more, or wishing that I could do what the other guy can...
If it helps you any, I was agonizing over the same decision and ended up going with the Wavetrac. After some fun backroad driving and a track weekend (and another upcoming), I am very satisfied with my purchase. Power delivery is smooth and even and feels great.

This isn't necessarily to steer you away from a clutch-type if that's the way you want to go, but I certainly do not regret my decision with the Wavetrac.
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