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      04-09-2018, 02:09 PM   #67
chris_flies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertman123 View Post
1, 1.5 and 2 way is how the diff locks on accel/decel

1 way is lock on accel, no lock on decel
1.5 way is lock on accel, partial lock on decel
2 way is lock as much as possible, really

For a daily, I'd go max a 1.5 way. A 2 way will have you chirping tires getting into parking spots. Not that that's bad but you'd chew threw tires with it

Also look into E93 M3 front/rear sway bar - real cheap and bolts right in
Next suspension mod will likely be a 28mm (same size as E93) front sway bar, and some heavy duty end links...
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      04-11-2018, 10:31 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
Next suspension mod will likely be a 28mm (same size as E93) front sway bar, and some heavy duty end links...
That's is on the list as well, not sure if im going to run an upgraded rear sway bar or not.
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      04-17-2018, 01:40 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E30ROB View Post
That's is on the list as well, not sure if im going to run an upgraded rear sway bar or not.
You will. The LSD, alone, will add some understeer. When you upgrade the front bar, you'll add significantly more understeer. I'd recommend an adjustable rear bar so that you can make some adjustment to suit your preference. I'm getting the Eibach from Bimmerworld. Just waiting for it to come in. Let me know if you'd like me to get you one, as well (I'm a retailer for BW).
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      04-28-2018, 12:01 PM   #70
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UPDATE: 4/28/18

Ended up having an oopsie and wrecking the car. Attempted to go through insurance and long story short, I was mislead on my policy and they made some really low offers. I also supplied $14,253 worth of parts receipts for this car, and that's with absolutely no labor..

Ended up tweaking some driver rear control arms, two front fenders, driver side skirt, both driver wheels, and front bumper.

Took this opportunity to start the 1M conversion so I went ahead and ordered everything needed to do a full 1M front conversion correctly. $2400 in parts

Car will be down for a bit while I gather parts and fix myself at home. hopefully end of may shell be back on the road..

Last edited by E30ROB; 05-06-2018 at 09:18 AM.
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      05-04-2018, 09:41 AM   #71
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2009 BMW 128i  [5.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by E30ROB View Post
UPDATE: 4/28/18

Ended up having an oopsie and wrecking the car. Attempted to go through insurance and long story short, I was mislead on my policy and they made some really low offers. I also supplied $14,253 worth of parts receipts for this car, and that's with absolutely no labor..

Ended up tweaking some driver rear control arms, two front fenders, driver side skirt, both driver wheels, and front bumper.

Took this opportunity to start the 1M conversion so I went ahead and ordered everything needed to do a full 1M front conversion correctly. $2400 in parts

Car will be down for a bit while I gather parts and fix myself at home. hopefully end of may shell be back on the road..
That's too bad! You have to post pictures is your results!

EDIT: I did an upgraded rear bar first (15mm from ECS) and it made the car feel much more tossable, but it still rolls a fair deal. I just ordered an upgraded front bar, and I'm really looking forward to getting it in the car...
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      05-14-2018, 06:33 AM   #72
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Following the thread, but have a slightly different version of the question. I donít post much, but some of you may have seen my build thread on a 128i track car. My wife has been running it for 2 years now, but I canít seem to get her to successfully learn how to heel-toe, so Iím looking for a solution.

Potential ďfixĒ is to get a 135i. Iím looking at a 2008 with steptronic. I believe the diff case is the smaller 188mm, similar in size to the 128i size. I also understand both are bolted...I know this is a 4 bolt on the 128, not sure if the same 4-bolt is on 135.

I purchased a 3.73 LSD for the 128 when I built the car. Will that possibly fit in the 135 steptronic? Is it just a flange change?? How difficult???

I know Iím going in reverse direction to this thread. Just trying to find out if I can reuse the differential in this 135i build. I know the easy answer...more heel-toe.
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      05-14-2018, 09:28 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan13 View Post
Following the thread, but have a slightly different version of the question. I donít post much, but some of you may have seen my build thread on a 128i track car. My wife has been running it for 2 years now, but I canít seem to get her to successfully learn how to heel-toe, so Iím looking for a solution.

Potential ďfixĒ is to get a 135i. Iím looking at a 2008 with steptronic. I believe the diff case is the smaller 188mm, similar in size to the 128i size. I also understand both are bolted...I know this is a 4 bolt on the 128, not sure if the same 4-bolt is on 135.

I purchased a 3.73 LSD for the 128 when I built the car. Will that possibly fit in the 135 steptronic? Is it just a flange change?? How difficult???

I know Iím going in reverse direction to this thread. Just trying to find out if I can reuse the differential in this 135i build. I know the easy answer...more heel-toe.
A lot of questions here. Driver mod! Keep your 128, you will not get your money out of your build.
4 bolt 128 diff does not match to the 135 drive shaft. The ď4 boltĒ refers to the input flange not the actual bolted diff inside the pumpkin. The small 135 auto diffs have bolted gear rings to the diff.
Hope this helps, keep the 128 and practice the heel toe. Try just a roll over when on the brakes. There are tons of videos. I do the roll because of my foot postition because broken bone in my ankle from motorcycle racing.
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      05-14-2018, 12:08 PM   #74
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2009 BMW 128i  [5.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by gixracer View Post
A lot of questions here. Driver mod! Keep your 128, you will not get your money out of your build.
4 bolt 128 diff does not match to the 135 drive shaft. The ď4 boltĒ refers to the input flange not the actual bolted diff inside the pumpkin. The small 135 auto diffs have bolted gear rings to the diff.
Hope this helps, keep the 128 and practice the heel toe. Try just a roll over when on the brakes. There are tons of videos. I do the roll because of my foot postition because broken bone in my ankle from motorcycle racing.
My issue with heel-toeing on the track was that after a few laps, I had to push the brake pedal well past the gas pedal to slow effectively. That was on OEM F30 335i pads, so, yeahhh...

Now I've got EBC Yellows which should fix that. I hope.
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      05-14-2018, 12:33 PM   #75
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Thanks for the response. If it were driver mod for me personally, then we wouldn’t have an issue...this is my wife who does 10-15 days per year. She can’t seem to master it and yes, the break pedal does “sometimes”get a little deep. I run PF08s, so it is not a pad issue.

I track between 35-40 days a year in a Z4M, but I drive the 128 every now and then. It will keep pace with most stock E36 M3s, so it is not a slouch on the track.

I know about the 4-bolt flange on the 128, I’ve installed, uninstalled the diff about 3 times now. But I have not been under a 135 steptronic. Is the geared flange on the 135 removable/replaceable/swappable to the 128?

I’m not concerned about getting money back out if the 128, not planning to sell it. If they become the next thing in BMW club racing, then I’ll cage it and use whatever the rules allow me to use...but that’s a different time.

Will the diff fit, with work if needed, or not? I get the 3.73 is not numerically ideal for a turbo 135, but the tracks we run are never in 2nd, and 5th is a given on the front and back straight at VIR.
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      05-15-2018, 02:56 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan13 View Post
Thanks for the response. If it were driver mod for me personally, then we wouldnít have an issue...this is my wife who does 10-15 days per year. She canít seem to master it and yes, the break pedal does ďsometimesĒget a little deep. I run PF08s, so it is not a pad issue.

I track between 35-40 days a year in a Z4M, but I drive the 128 every now and then. It will keep pace with most stock E36 M3s, so it is not a slouch on the track.

I know about the 4-bolt flange on the 128, Iíve installed, uninstalled the diff about 3 times now. But I have not been under a 135 steptronic. Is the geared flange on the 135 removable/replaceable/swappable to the 128?

Iím not concerned about getting money back out if the 128, not planning to sell it. If they become the next thing in BMW club racing, then Iíll cage it and use whatever the rules allow me to use...but thatís a different time.

Will the diff fit, with work if needed, or not? I get the 3.73 is not numerically ideal for a turbo 135, but the tracks we run are never in 2nd, and 5th is a given on the front and back straight at VIR.
The 135 is splined. The whole pumkin drops in. Earlier in this thread one of the posters swapped a pumpkin in. If I recall the pinion swap did not work.
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      05-25-2018, 10:16 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixracer View Post
The 135 is splined. The whole pumkin drops in. Earlier in this thread one of the posters swapped a pumpkin in. If I recall the pinion swap did not work.
Correct, the pinion swap was unefective.

What was needed was a 135I rear driveshaft half. I reused 128i CSB as I was in a pinch and it works great. Logged over 2500 miles of hard driving no issues. I even just wrecked the car and its back on the road now. Was down last month. Need to be more careful...
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      06-04-2018, 08:41 AM   #78
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2009 BMW 128i  [5.00]
I have some questions, again. I'm planning to rebuild, myself, a 3.73 diff from a 328i/128i auto with an LSD unit. Leaning towards an MFactory helical diff for the drivability and refinement advantages. However, I'm slightly concerned about snow traction and the predictability of the helical-type units. I want to be able to hang the tail out controllably and stably on a wet backroad, for fun, and get as much grip and stability on-track as possible. So, my first question is, would a clutch-type LSD (1.5-way MFactory) be a better purchase for me? I'm kinda torn; they would both be a HUGE improvement over the crap that the car came with, but, the helical sounds like it has traction and predictability issues vs. the clutch-type, and the maintenance needs of the clutch-type are also of possible concern vs. the helical.

Another question regarding the actual rebuild; what hardware needs replacing? I'd be getting a donor diff with around 100k miles (definitely try to find the youngest one possible). I know that the output flange seals and ring gear bolts need replacing, but what other internal parts (bearing parts, etc.) would need replacing at this mileage?

This is intended to be a learning experience and a summer break project for me, and the car won't be out of service since I'll be keeping the car's original diff in-place. Thanks for any info and help you can offer!
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