Clunk from front driver's side suspension

[Almuliman]

I'm chasing a clunking noise from the front left (driver's side) of my 128. It's been there since I bought the car some 16K miles ago and the previous owner said he'd been chasing it "but that nobody had been able to figure it out".

It's not steering angle related (so I'm thinking not strut mounts) and it seems much worse when the car is cold, although that could be just be because I'm going easy on it then anyway.

I've tried to check for play in bushings, etc., and I don't think anything has unusual amounts of play.

The only possible culprit I have in mind right now is the swaybar droplink, but both driver's and passenger's behave the same and have the same amount of play, though, so this is probably not it. However, I can rotate the links a lot at each end (top and bottom), but I don't know how much they're supposed to be able to move. Anyone know?

Any suggestions before I give in and take it to a shop that knows these and might be able to chase it down?

[Almuliman]

Did some more thinking and reading about this and decided to spend the time and get back under the car for a closer look tonight. There's no question in my mind now that it's the end links. I took the bar out to check the bushings with the subframe (they're OK) and the joints on both end links move freely without any sort of resistance and there's definitely pre-load.

I've ordered a set of adjustable end links from Raceland (just over $90 incl. tax and shipping); hoping that'll get rid of that annoying clunk and improve ride and handling overall by getting rid of the preload and getting the suspension geometry back to what it should be. Downside is that if it fixes things, I don't have an excuse to get the M3 control arms. D'oh.

[cerealwars]

Not sure if you can get it to clunk while the car is stationary, but I've had good luck tracking down mystery clunks by filming my suspension with my cell phone while I cycle the steering wheel or move the suspension up and down with a jack.

Sway links are a cheap and easy job, definitely worth a shot.

Does the quality of their endlinks seem decent? Only reason I know of Raceland is for their $500 coilovers.

You should probably get the m3 arms just to be safe though...

[Almuliman]

Oh, good ideas. I'll try that if the end links don't fix it.

I don't have them yet, but I was reading/looking around a bit and I particularly like their YT video. We'll see, I suppose.

And about the M3 arms, that is precisely what I'm thinking! Imagine that. Pretty sure they *will* happen at some point, but for now there's the end links and the SS brake lines and the front pads'n'rotors (did the rears already) and the brake fluid flush and the ... The list goes on.

[ShocknAwe]

I've had good experience with the lemforder oem links. Be careful with aftermarket stuff, I've had a bunch of presumably reputable brands fail early. Sounds like you have stockish height suspension. No reason to get an adjustable link.

I'd consider RE and other very high end companies only.

[Almuliman]

Originally Posted by ShocknAwe

I've had good experience with the lemforder oem links. Be careful with aftermarket stuff, I've had a bunch of presumably reputable brands fail early. Sounds like you have stockish height suspension. No reason to get an adjustable link.

I'd consider RE and other very high end companies only.

Yeah, it's a bit of flier, I suppose, but I have TC Kline coilovers and ride somewhere below stock, plus there is definitely preload with the stock links, so I'll try these for both quality and adjustability.

[ShocknAwe]

Originally Posted by Almuliman

Yeah, it's a bit of flier, I suppose, but I have TC Kline coilovers and ride somewhere below stock, plus there is definitely preload with the stock links, so I'll try these for both quality and adjustability.

I'm on ohlins, you can rotate the bar and it works fine, can also use 1M links which fit better

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Almuliman

I'm chasing a clunking noise from the front left (driver's side) of my 128. It's been there since I bought the car some 16K miles ago and the previous owner said he'd been chasing it "but that nobody had been able to figure it out".

It's not steering angle related (so I'm thinking not strut mounts) and it seems much worse when the car is cold, although that could be just be because I'm going easy on it then anyway.

I've tried to check for play in bushings, etc., and I don't think anything has unusual amounts of play.

The only possible culprit I have in mind right now is the swaybar droplink, but both driver's and passenger's behave the same and have the same amount of play, though, so this is probably not it. However, I can rotate the links a lot at each end (top and bottom), but I don't know how much they're supposed to be able to move. Anyone know?

Any suggestions before I give in and take it to a shop that knows these and might be able to chase it down?

Your tech should have chassis ears for this purpose.

If you are suspicious of the links, took them off and go drive the car. They articulate, but should have no play in them.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by Almuliman

Yeah, it's a bit of flier, I suppose, but I have TC Kline coilovers and ride somewhere below stock, plus there is definitely preload with the stock links, so I'll try these for both quality and adjustability.

Definitely adjust adjustable endlinks to eliminate the preload. I've got Whiteline's on my car and first just measured to account for the lowering of my springs vs stock. Later did the adjustment the proper way and it made a noticeable improvement.

Roughly the steps are - loosen the endlink adjuster nuts. Get the car at loaded ride height, then turn the endlinks until you feel no preload. Then re-tighten the endlinks adjuster nuts. You'll have to remove and replace tires for all of this.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by gjm120

Definitely adjust adjustable endlinks to eliminate the preload. I've got Whiteline's on my car and first just measured to account for the lowering of my springs vs stock. Later did the adjustment the proper way and it made a noticeable improvement.

Roughly the steps are - loosen the endlink adjuster nuts. Get the car at loaded ride height, then turn the endlinks until you feel no preload. Then re-tighten the endlinks adjuster nuts. You'll have to remove and replace tires for all of this.

We also have an excellent option with OEM quality joints. Custom lengths are also available.

https://hpautosport.com/product/hp-a...ybar-endlinks/

[Almuliman]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

We also have an excellent option with OEM quality joints. Custom lengths are also available.

https://hpautosport.com/product/hp-a...ybar-endlinks/

Somehow I missed that... In any case, new end links are in, preload removed, and, voila!, no clunking! In case you guys haven't seen my post in the other thread, the old end links were definitely blown – joints were moving freely without any sort of resistance.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Almuliman

Somehow I missed that... In any case, new end links are in, preload removed, and, voila!, no clunking! In case you guys haven't seen my post in the other thread, the old end links were definitely blown – joints were moving freely without any sort of resistance.

There are many other excellent adjustable links out there. They will do the job just fine.