6mt won't let me get it in reverse or 1st gear

[Boosted_N54]

last couple of days I can't get my reverse gear in or my 1st gear. this is giving me a real hard time. never had this problem problem before . anyone know what this might be?

I have 62,000 miles,
bmw short shifter kit
installed spec clutch stage2+ also smfw back in September

[MightyMouseTech]

Can you select those gears while the engine is off? Sounds like the clutch is not fully releasing.

[Boosted_N54]

Yea I tried forcing 1st gear in while the car was running and at the same time I turned off the car and it slipped in. but even when I turned off the car I try to put it in 1st and reverse and it was a bit hard. let's just say it's alot easier putin 1st gear or reverse when the car was shut off then turned on

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Socrates.Tii

Yea I tried forcing 1st gear in while the car was running and at the same time I turned off the car and it slipped in. but even when I turned off the car I try to put it in 1st and reverse and it was a bit hard. let's just say it's alot easier putin 1st gear or reverse when the car was shut off then turned on

Either your clutch is not disengaging. You might check your floor mat, is not preventing the pedal from a full depress, or your slave or master could be leaking and/or have air in the lines. Did you do any other work recently?

My money is on a new clutch.

[Boosted_N54]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Either your clutch is not disengaging. You might check your floor mat, is not preventing the pedal from a full depress, or your slave or master could be leaking and/or have air in the lines. Did you do any other work recently?

My money is on a new clutch.

no other work. I do have Turbo seals leak. but I can't see how that is related

[Boosted_N54]

and I have a clutch stop but that was installed way before I had my new upgrade clutch

[6MT_Addict]

Originally Posted by Socrates.Tii

and I have a clutch stop but that was installed way before I had my new upgrade clutch

That could be it, since your old clutch would have had more wear. Try removing it, if it makes a difference then pull one or two rubber washers from the clutch stop

[Boosted_N54]

Originally Posted by 1AddictsAnonymous

That could be it, since your old clutch would have had more wear. Try removing it, if it makes a difference then pull one or two rubber washers from the clutch stop

just drove home form work today and no issues so F**** weird 1st gear and reverse was going in smoothly wtf but I'm still going to remove 1 or 2 rubbers form the clutch stop

[6MT_Addict]

Originally Posted by Socrates.Tii

just drove home form work today and no issues so F**** weird 1st gear and reverse was going in smoothly wtf but I'm still going to remove 1 or 2 rubbers form the clutch stop

Haha brutal but hey it works! Before you do, try shifting into 1st or reverse on a flat surface, keep the clutch pedal full in, and take your foot off the brake. If the car starts to roll or pull, your clutch is engaging. At least that way you can possibly pinpoint the issue.

Maybe the clutch has worn enough to get it into gear, if this is the issue.

[Boosted_N54]

so i just took off only 2 piece of rubber from the clutch stop and boy what a difference. The clutch sinks in noticebly all the way i took it around the block making are full stops and the gear goes in smoothly in 1st and reverse BUT the real test is tomorrow in the city.
will see

i have 63,300 miles on car i installed the the spec stage 2+ and SMFW at 60,468 miles
clutch is still new and i i have not been hard on the clutch yet

[MightyMouseTech]

Sounds like the clutch stop was just too thick to work with the new clutch.

[Sixle]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

Sounds like the clutch stop was just too thick to work with the new clutch.

Built myself a custom aluminum clutch stop one day and when I was first test fitting it the car actually wouldn't start even though when I pressed in the pedal it was definitely lifting off the flywheel. I'm surprised this car was even starting up with the clutch dragging so heavily that you couldn't even engage 1st.

[miggs]

Pump your clutch 2x and then try getting in gear again see if that helps

[Indo Rider]

Originally Posted by Sixle

Built myself a custom aluminum clutch stop one day and when I was first test fitting it the car actually wouldn't start even though when I pressed in the pedal it was definitely lifting off the flywheel. I'm surprised this car was even starting up with the clutch dragging so heavily that you couldn't even engage 1st.

Yeah, suprising to me too. As my spec 2+ has worn over 25k miles i started having trouble starting because I wasn't activating the clutch safety switch even though the clutch was mechanically disengaged. Removing the clutch stop would allow starting but then there's even more dead space at end of travel, obviously a step in the wrong direction. So I wired in a push button switch that shorts two wires in the clutch safety switch when held. Set my clutch stop back to a height where I have just enough pedal travel to mechanically disengage clutch and its perfect.

[Sixle]

Originally Posted by Indo Rider

Yeah, suprising to me too. As my spec 2+ has worn over 25k miles i started having trouble starting because I wasn't activating the clutch safety switch even though the clutch was mechanically disengaged. Removing the clutch stop would allow starting but then there's even more dead space at end of travel, obviously a step in the wrong direction. So I wired in a push button switch that shorts two wires in the clutch safety switch when held. Set my clutch stop back to a height where I have just enough pedal travel to mechanically disengage clutch and its perfect.

I wonder if a clutch bleed fixes these issues? I noticed after rebleeding my system with rbf600 after the cdv delete that my disengagement point moved farther closer to the driver, might provide adequate pressure to flip the switch? I'm sure its a pressure driven switch like the braking system.

[Indo Rider]

Not a pressure switch. Some sort of induction or magnetic switch. It's mounted to the side of the piston behind the clutch pedal. I think it outputs a different voltage for each of three states being something like less than 10% travel, 10 - 90%, and greater than 90%. It's that greater than 90% state that can be hard to achieve with aftermarket clutch and large clutch stop, but that's only needed to start the car to my knowledge. The middle range is interpreted as shifting action.

[Boosted_N54]

ok so i drove the car all day today and have no problem putting it in 1st or reverse ever since i removed 2 rubber peice from the clutch stop. it fixed the issue NIGHT and DAY .

BUT what i don't understand is that why would the clutch stop cause the problem NOW . this is weird because i have installed the clutch stop way before i even started to modd the car even before the spec clutch stage2+ ever since i installed the new spec clutch i never had the problem untill now after 3,000 miles of spec clutch driving

[loesch]

Originally Posted by Socrates.Tii

ok so i drove the car all day today and have no problem putting it in 1st or reverse ever since i removed 2 rubber peice from the clutch stop. it fixed the issue NIGHT and DAY .

BUT what i don't understand is that why would the clutch stop cause the problem NOW . this is weird because i have installed the clutch stop way before i even started to modd the car even before the spec clutch stage2+ ever since i installed the new spec clutch i never had the problem untill now after 3,000 miles of spec clutch driving

You can install a Spec with the throw out bearing at a high engagement point or low. You must have yours set to the low engagement point so you need all the pedal travel. If you installed it the other way the clutch would be completely disengaged at about half way down to the floor. Maybe not even that far.