Boston BMWCCA camber adjustment point calculation

[135gofast]

Does anyone know how many points -1.1 degrees of camber (front) counts as in the Boston BMWCCA events? Stock camber is -.4 front iirc, so is -1.1:
.7 degrees = 3 points (rounded down to .5)
.7 degress = 6 points (rounded up to 1)
-1.1 degress = 6 points (ignore the factory camber setting of -.4)
?

Thanks!!

[and 1]

i'd say 6 points

[arrutled]

or .7*6 = 4.2

[larryn]

M cars are given a base camber starting point of -1.5 deg, non-M's are given -1 deg starting point.

We do not penalize for rear camber adjustments at all.

The reason we do the base camber the way that we do is because most BMWs have a slotted strut tower, and can be set to ~-1 deg with no modifications.

We do not do rounding (except in the instance of hundredths rounding up to tenths... and there is never rounding down.. only rounding up)

[135gofast]

Thanks for the clarification Larry. I didn't see that level of detail on the inf form, sorry if i missed it.

So it looks like -1.1 is negligible points and that should mean i'll be happily in B class with the APEX fatties on my car, cool!

[larryn]

Yep... the PDF IMF form is my doing, and I try to keep it less cluttered, so it is not too many pages long.

Wish I knew how to make it editable on your computer so that it adds up the points automatically. We get some questionable mathematics on quite a few forms.

Btw, there's going to be 3 or 4 1ers there with APEX wheels on them, it appears! Cool!

[arrutled]

hmmm. this information just knocked off at least 3-6 points. hello B class?

[135gofast]

The rims have been on for 4 days and already I've had 3-4 people comment about them. I think the hyper black rims really make the black car look nice.

But, i'm ot happy with the camber plate install yet, one of them rattles a bit over very small bumps, only noticeable at low speeds. Otherwise it feels fine. Anyways, I am hoping to ride in one of your cars to see how the vorshlag's sound in your install.

Larry - what tool did you use to create the PDF IMF form? Does it have a calculation tool or javascript support?

[135gofast]

Originally Posted by arrutled

hmmm. this information just knocked off at least 3-6 points. hello B class?

That's exactly what i was thinking! B is going to be packed this year with 1'ers. Can't believe i'm missing the first event of the season :-(

[arrutled]

Originally Posted by 135gofast

The rims have been on for 4 days and already I've had 3-4 people comment about them. I think the hyper black rims really make the black car look nice.

But, i'm ot happy with the camber plate install yet, one of them rattles a bit over very small bumps, only noticeable at low speeds. Otherwise it feels fine. Anyways, I am hoping to ride in one of your cars to see how the vorshlag's sound in your install.

Larry - what tool did you use to create the PDF IMF form? Does it have a calculation tool or javascript support?

tighten the shit out of the nut on the top of the plate and the noise should go away. if that doesn't do it, check back.

[135gofast]

Originally Posted by arrutled

tighten the shit out of the nut on the top of the plate and the noise should go away. if that doesn't do it, check back.

oh man, if that's all there is to it! i'll give it a try. right now, the bolt is about even with nut. does your bolt stick up above the nut much?

[arrutled]

yes it does. your gonna need a 6 point socket to move the cross bar. then you can get in there with an allen wrench and a 22 mm wrench and tighten her up. i had that popping noise for a while(only at low speeds) and this was the cause.

[larryn]

Originally Posted by 135gofast

The rims have been on for 4 days and already I've had 3-4 people comment about them. I think the hyper black rims really make the black car look nice.

But, i'm ot happy with the camber plate install yet, one of them rattles a bit over very small bumps, only noticeable at low speeds. Otherwise it feels fine. Anyways, I am hoping to ride in one of your cars to see how the vorshlag's sound in your install.

Larry - what tool did you use to create the PDF IMF form? Does it have a calculation tool or javascript support?

I used MS Word, and then converted the doc with Adobe Acrobat Word plugin.

I attempted to make it more interactive, but after a dozen hours or so, gave up.

[135gofast]

Originally Posted by arrutled

yes it does. your gonna need a 6 point socket to move the cross bar. then you can get in there with an allen wrench and a 22 mm wrench and tighten her up. i had that popping noise for a while(only at low speeds) and this was the cause.

i whacked that bolt with an impact wrench to tighten it in the first place. I tried tightening it with the impact wrench again, but that didn't seem to tighten it any more. Noise persists.

I'm going back out there with an allen wrench and a 22mm asap.

Right now, i'm where you were at about post #132 in your epic where you were pretty fed up. The noise is just irritating on a BMW. Besides that, this is ending up being a saga as well. One that really stinks. The alignment shop snapped one of the 3 top bolts on the camber plate and then they "fixed" it by removing everything and putting in a new bolt with tighter thread pattern. Surprisingly, that's the plate that is making noises. Noises that i did not hear on the drive to the shop, albeit only about 3 miles. They also set me up with 1.1 degrees of camber when i asked for 2?? wtf? The guys were nice enough to check everything was tight when i complained about the noises, but they have no clue. Called the vorshlag plates "cheap chinese" plates and they only use Turner Motorsports plates in their shop, whatever!

On another front, today i was driving and my rear driver side wheel almost fell off, i had not re-torqued the wheels since putting them on and 3 of the 5 bolts were loose enough that i could spin them freely with my hands, luckily i recognized the vibration was not normal and pulled off the road and checked them.

If I can get these things quieted down, i'll be happy driving this car for a while with zero other changes. Seems like a lot of effort just to put on some of the coolest wheels ever.

[135gofast]

Originally Posted by larryn

I used MS Word, and then converted the doc with Adobe Acrobat Word plugin.

I attempted to make it more interactive, but after a dozen hours or so, gave up.

Seems like there are some tools out there that advertise they can perform calculations in the pdf form, probably they require javascript to be enabled on the pdf reader. I'll check into it over the next few days and see if i can reverse engineer your pdf with some interactivity.

[135gofast]

Originally Posted by 135gofast

i whacked that bolt with an impact wrench to tighten it in the first place. I tried tightening it with the impact wrench again, but that didn't seem to tighten it any more. Noise persists.

I'm going back out there with an allen wrench and a 22mm asap.

Well i just snapped my allen wrench trying to get it tighter. That allen wrench WAS cheap chinese tho.

[arrutled]

so you have a snapped allen wrench and a snapped bolt now huh. I wouldnt be going back to that alignment shop. I am sure that that is tight enough if you managed to do that. The only other possible thing is that the spring is not sitting properly in the perch and the nuts are hitting the upper spring perch because of it. hopefully the bolt they gave you wasnt any taller than your other two. either way, feel up in there and make sure there is no space between the end of your spring and upper and lower perches. Either way you look at it, its an installation problem. I don't think they are cheap chinese but I think vorshlag screwed up when redesigning the camber plate trying to give the spring more travel and ended up with bolts that are too close to the damn spring perch. both of my upper perches are cut into from the bolts. If you were closer I would just come take a look, but your a tad far away. by the way, what are you torque'n you lug nuts down to?

[135gofast]

Hey Andy
I will check the upper perch and see what I can tell. I Am so interested to fix this. It's hideous even though it's only one side.

I torqued with a red torque stick rated at 90 ft/lbs. I did not follow that d addage of retorquing/checking lugs 48 hours after install. Lesson learned

[arrutled]

I have felt your pain, just want it fixed for ya.

[and 1]

well i guess i'll be putting my camber plate plans on hold for a little while...sucks that this is such a pain

on a lighter note, B class FTW!

[135gofast]

Originally Posted by and 1

well i guess i'll be putting my camber plate plans on hold for a little while...sucks that this is such a pain

on a lighter note, B class FTW!

fwiw, the full camber plate install and alignment by Landshark was quoted at $520. If i had let them do it, i'd have saved 6 hours messing around with spring compressors, and not have had any middle man to blame the sheared camber plate nut on. I saved nothing, and only did it to have some fun, which it surely was not.

i had no need for camber plates, i just liked the wheels. the car has so much more than i can handle at this point, it'll be fun learning and growing into it.

[135gofast]

Originally Posted by arrutled

I have felt your pain, just want it fixed for ya.

thnx man!

if they did put in a bolt with a too-fat head, the only way this is getting fixed is with another bolt (or plate) from vorshlag and a re-install.

tomorrow i'll try to figure out if the upper spring perch is set wrongly. woo-hoo another day of mechanicing.