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      01-28-2015, 03:10 PM   #23
koastal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wideawake View Post
Sorry for bringing up an old thread.

I'm interested to get the BC ER from the local dealer in my country.
I visited them today and they said the pillow ball mount at the top of the shocks cannot be used to add camber. Is this true? In fact they said the setup will be noisy over time.

Any comments from people who has used it for at least 6 months?

Thanks.
I have had these on for 110 000 klms. Numerous track days and many B road trips. They are still as quiet as the day they were installed.
The only issue is the external shaft seal will require replacing at approx 90 k
No big deal cost was $ 270 inc labour and materials per shock.
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      01-30-2015, 02:19 PM   #24
martymil
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Mine have been fine for around 10k since install, no issues even on the harshest of surfaces

Looks like he is trying to sell you something else
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      02-18-2015, 06:50 AM   #25
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My BR's have been noisy from day one, on the passenger (left) front side. They make knocking noises over large road undulations and make less prominent sounds from the same side when driving on uneven/poorly surfaced roads.
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      02-18-2015, 01:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acheron83
My BR's have been noisy from day one, on the passenger (left) front side. They make knocking noises over large road undulations and make less prominent sounds from the same side when driving on uneven/poorly surfaced roads.
Exactly the same issue I've had since they were installed. Front left knocks on small bumps. It's very annoying but I've just learnt to live with it. Would like to get it fixed one day.
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      02-18-2015, 06:41 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB4-335 View Post
Exactly the same issue I've had since they were installed. Front left knocks on small bumps. It's very annoying but I've just learnt to live with it. Would like to get it fixed one day.
Same issue here but mine is on the front driver side. I have replaced almost everything that I can think of ( Control arms, replacement strut, new pillow mount, new endlinks) and the noise is still there. The only thing left to replace is the tie rod. Will try that and see if its the issue.
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      02-19-2015, 03:49 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by recce View Post
Same issue here but mine is on the front driver side. I have replaced almost everything that I can think of ( Control arms, replacement strut, new pillow mount, new endlinks) and the noise is still there. The only thing left to replace is the tie rod. Will try that and see if its the issue.
When I look into it elsewhere online, both specifically for our cars and on other models, it does seem to come up as an issue quite often on those kits that do not come with adjustable end-links.

I'm starting to believe that perhaps the length of the end-link needs to be adjusted when lowering the front to avoid the sway bar knocking. Perhaps the OP can weigh in on it

Last edited by Acheron83; 02-19-2015 at 03:55 AM..
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      02-20-2015, 04:38 AM   #29
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My drivers (right) rear has clunked for the last 30kkm. zero issues with the performance, just a noise.
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      02-23-2015, 02:49 AM   #30
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Some feedback I received from James @ Apex:

Quote:
Hi,

If all the nuts / collars etc. are tight I would first check the spring preload (should be between 3-5mm)
If the preload is correct and the issue persists please follow the below testing procedure:

1. Remove the strut from the vehicle

2. Check the top mount nut is tight

3. Check for play in the top mount bearing

4. Check the bottom mount nut is tight (Inverted kits only)

5. Check the spring preload (the length of the spring will be marked on the side of the spring,

check this against the actual spring length when on the strut, the preload should be between 3-5mm)

6. Check that the spring seat locking collar is tight.

7. Check that the bottom mount collar is tight

8. Visually inspect the damper for leaks.

9. Perform the damper test (Strip the collars, mounts etc. from the

damper, set the damping to the softest setting (For inverted - undo the bottom mount nut and remove the damper itself from the damper body)

then fully compress the damper and let the damper return, the action should be smooth with no

sticking or squelching noises.)

10. Repeat the previous step 30 times


If the damper sticks, catches, slows down, does not return or makes any squelching noises the damper has failed the test.

If the dampers test fine then the issue will be somewhere else on the car and the noise is being transferred through the strut, common causes are as you mention drop links, ARB's etc.

Hope this helps!

Regards,
James

Apex Performance Parts Ltd
+44 (0)1274 683633

www.apexperformance.co.uk
BC Racing, Ohlins, KSport & D2 Brakes, Hardrace.
www.bc-racing.co.uk - Superb Coilovers for Street & Circuit
www.ksport.co.uk - Braking Expectations
www.ohlinscoilovers.co.uk - Road and Track Coilovers
www.D2brakekits.co.uk - Big Brake Horsepower
www.Hardrace.co.uk - Chassis - Steering - Alignment
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      04-25-2016, 09:36 PM   #31
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Does anyone have experience with these on older cars?
I am thinking about a set for my e36.
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      05-01-2016, 09:09 AM   #32
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I emailed these guys for a price on some parts - no response.
Anyone know if they are still trading?
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      05-01-2016, 09:43 AM   #33
david.orr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdave View Post
I emailed these guys for a price on some parts - no response.
Anyone know if they are still trading?
02 9648 3366

This is switch number for Peter/Advan Performance and Stuart/BMR
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