KW V2's and Maddad Exhaust - installed

moveswiftly · 06-30-2010, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianc

Could you not shorten the tool to fit under the strut brace?

ianc

P.S. Don't forget to put those dust caps on when you've made your adjustments. There are ball bearings in there that the strut body rotates on and the caps keep dirt and crud out of them...

can the dust caps be taken off from the top?

ianc · 06-30-2010, 11:25 PM

Quote:

can the dust caps be taken off from the top?

Yes. You can see down through the hole that Jeremy has drilled to the threaded top of the strut where the hole to insert the tool is. Around that is a circular piece of metal on which a factory dust cap fits to protect the bearings inside. It is important to keep this on there.

Go lift your hood and take a look if you don't know what I mean...

ianc

BMW86 · 06-30-2010, 11:27 PM

Thanks for the pic Jeremy. I'm not sure if I'm going to drill a hole though, I really don't like the idea of weakening the strut. If you have the tools there it takes 30 seconds to unbolt the strut bar at each end, remove the cap, adjust it, then re-tighten it.

moveswiftly · 06-30-2010, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianc

Yes. You can see down through the hole that Jeremy has drilled to the threaded top of the strut where the hole to insert the tool is. Around that is a circular piece of metal on which a factory dust cap fits to protect the bearings inside. It is important to keep this on there.

Go lift your hood and take a look if you don't know what I mean...

ianc

thanks i just checked it out...really easy to remove.

jeremydgreat · 07-01-2010, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMW86

Thanks for the pic Jeremy. I'm not sure if I'm going to drill a hole though, I really don't like the idea of weakening the strut. If you have the tools there it takes 30 seconds to unbolt the strut bar at each end, remove the cap, adjust it, then re-tighten it.

Yeah, it's a tradeoff. However, I think it's worth it.

1) The hole definitely feels smaller than it looks in these pics.
2) I feel like it was only a matter of time before I fumbled the little hex tool and dropped it into the engine.
3) It really was a pain getting the tool in there. The settings go from 0-18 notches and I would have only got about 2 clicks per twist by sticking it in through the sides.

BMW86 · 07-01-2010, 12:18 AM

I've also been concerned about dropping the allen key into the engine bay but I don't think I will be making adjustments on a regular basis anyway. Also, even if an allen key was modified to fit underneath the strut it wouldn't make it any easier to change the settings as you really need to feel each click and the strut really restricts access. I'm running 7 front and 5 rear, both from full settings. I find the right a bit harsh at times because I feel most bumps but it handles really well.

06-30-2010, 11:27 PM	#25
BMW86 Major General 398 Rep 9,156 Posts Drives: RS3 Sedan / Macan S Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Australia iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the pic Jeremy. I'm not sure if I'm going to drill a hole though, I really don't like the idea of weakening the strut. If you have the tools there it takes 30 seconds to unbolt the strut bar at each end, remove the cap, adjust it, then re-tighten it.
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07-01-2010, 12:18 AM	#28
BMW86 Major General 398 Rep 9,156 Posts Drives: RS3 Sedan / Macan S Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Australia iTrader: (0)	I've also been concerned about dropping the allen key into the engine bay but I don't think I will be making adjustments on a regular basis anyway. Also, even if an allen key was modified to fit underneath the strut it wouldn't make it any easier to change the settings as you really need to feel each click and the strut really restricts access. I'm running 7 front and 5 rear, both from full settings. I find the right a bit harsh at times because I feel most bumps but it handles really well.
	Appreciate 0 Quote