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[Zombie1]

I have VMR v705 in a staggered set up in 18-8.5 and 18-9.5 currently have PPS on but was looking to upgrade the rear tire size it's currently 245/35/18 my car will be lowered 1 inch the back soon, can I run 245/40/18 ? Or 255-265? In any size? I'm no expert but would like to thicken the look on the rear rims they look to skinny compared to the fronts. Any info will be helpful thanks gents

[Stohlen]

What is the size of your front tires?

[Zombie1]

Originally Posted by Stohlen

What is the size of your front tires?

My fronts are 225/40/18

[Stohlen]

255/35 is .75 mm smaller than your front tires, shouldn't be able to tell the difference and that should fit nicely.

[SfValley335i]

we need to know your ET/offset in the rear to know if you can run 255/265.

[Zombie1]

Originally Posted by SfValley335i

we need to know your ET/offset in the rear to know if you can run 255/265.

Rear 18 x 9.5 ET45 I believe

[Zombie1]

Originally Posted by Stohlen

255/35 is .75 mm smaller than your front tires, shouldn't be able to tell the difference and that should fit nicely.

[SfValley335i]

Originally Posted by Zombie1

Rear 18 x 9.5 ET45 I believe

1" drop and 9.5et45, you will clear PSS 255, but with 265 you will have a slight rub on big dips.

If you lower the car more than 1" you will rub more. If you get m3 subframe bushings or adjustable dampers for the rear then you can stiffing things up so it doesnt rub (less flex/compression).

The above is only true if the camber in the rear is minimal.

[Zombie1]

Originally Posted by SfValley335i

1" drop and 9.5et45, you will clear PSS 255, but with 265 you will have a slight rub on big dips.

If you lower the car more than 1" you will rub more. If you get m3 subframe bushings or adjustable dampers for the rear then you can stiffing things up so it doesnt rub (less flex/compression).

The above is only true if the camber in the rear is minimal.

Alright great, I have koni yellows,swift spec R springs along with all the m3 suspension bits bushings, control arms,rear arms, guide rods

Thanks for the help

[Eyeman]

I don't agree that 255 PSS will easily fit with those wheels. You should be able to make it work but it won't be easy. I also went that way because I hated how scrawny my previous rear tires looked.

My car is now probably less than an inch lowered, I'm running as much factory camber as possible (over 2deg each side), I've rolled and pulled my fenders and I still rub. My wheels are 19's which will make a little difference and I bet your Swift springs are a good bit stiffer than my KW's. Btw I also have a lightweight battery and no rear seat to reduce rear weight (all my mods are listed below in my sig).

[AJN54135i]

I have the same wheels/tires and I run 255/35/18 in the rear and 225/40/18 in the front. I like the way it feels and performs.

[TheBreeze]

With an ET45 and a PSS 255, you will almost certainly rub. The PSS run on the big side. I run 225/255 PSS on same size wheels as you have, but with ET50 rear. I have a similar drop to the Swift springs (I run the Dinan koni yellows/springs/camber plates). I also have all the M3 bits. I run -1.8F and -2.0R for camber. I rubbed on all 4 corners. To identify the rubs, I applied the stickiest 1" mask tape I could find along the fender lip on all 4 corners.

First, since the rear was rubbing worse, I paid a shop to roll the rear fenders. I held off on the front, as I had not yet installed my camber plates. After installing the camber plates and getting an alignment, I was still rubbing in the front, so I ended up using the fat end of an aluminum baseball bat, and GENTLY rolling the bat between the tire and the fender, applying just enough pressure against the inner fender to bend/tuck the fender lip up into the fender. I found that it actually bends pretty easily. I was a little scared to do this initially, but now that I've done it, it really was no big deal, and it looks no different than stock. In hindsight, if I had it to do all over again, I would've probably attempted to do all 4 corners myself. Most of the rubbing from the rear was coming from the spot on the rear well where the plastic bumper and metal fender meet (if you look, you'll see how it extrudes into the well). Had I been thinking, I would've taken my dremel tool and shaved off the extruding bits, then do the bat trick, and see where that left me. The shop I took it to actually used that special rolling tool on the rear, and while it's very clean looking, I can tell the fender has been pulled out. I can't tell on the front at all.

Of course, YMMV.

[Zombie1]

Originally Posted by TheBreeze

With an ET45 and a PSS 255, you will almost certainly rub. The PSS run on the big side. I run 225/255 PSS on same size wheels as you have, but with ET50 rear. I have a similar drop to the Swift springs (I run the Dinan koni yellows/springs/camber plates). I also have all the M3 bits. I run -1.8F and -2.0R for camber. I rubbed on all 4 corners. To identify the rubs, I applied the stickiest 1" mask tape I could find along the fender lip on all 4 corners.

First, since the rear was rubbing worse, I paid a shop to roll the rear fenders. I held off on the front, as I had not yet installed my camber plates. After installing the camber plates and getting an alignment, I was still rubbing in the front, so I ended up using the fat end of an aluminum baseball bat, and GENTLY rolling the bat between the tire and the fender, applying just enough pressure against the inner fender to bend/tuck the fender lip up into the fender. I found that it actually bends pretty easily. I was a little scared to do this initially, but now that I've done it, it really was no big deal, and it looks no different than stock. In hindsight, if I had it to do all over again, I would've probably attempted to do all 4 corners myself. Most of the rubbing from the rear was coming from the spot on the rear well where the plastic bumper and metal fender meet (if you look, you'll see how it extrudes into the well). Had I been thinking, I would've taken my dremel tool and shaved off the extruding bits, then do the bat trick, and see where that left me. The shop I took it to actually used that special rolling tool on the rear, and while it's very clean looking, I can tell the fender has been pulled out. I can't tell on the front at all.

Of course, YMMV.

So if I have the shop roll my fenders I should be in the clear when I upgrade to 255s in the back? I never have people in my back seat so im not worried about extra weight sinking the back

[TheBreeze]

Originally Posted by Zombie1

So if I have the shop roll my fenders I should be in the clear when I upgrade to 255s in the back? I never have people in my back seat so im not worried about extra weight sinking the back

There's really no point in getting it rolled before you have the tires you want to run installed. I'd get the tires first, then listen for rubbing. If it does, do the masking tape trick to identify where it's rubbing. You may be able to do minor modifications like smoothing the fender lip or trimming the lip where it meets the back bumper. If it's rubbing is really bad, you'll probably have to have it rolled by a pro. Every car is a bit different, and the 45 offset rear is pretty aggressive for our 1s. It's a pretty safe bet you'll be able to get the 255s to fit eventually .. just a matter of how aggressive the fender mods have to get.