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      07-17-2013, 10:32 PM   #45
hyphy1
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What about the deeeeeetails...

anything for that?
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      07-18-2013, 01:48 AM   #46
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My room is now filled with boxes of detailing stuff
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      07-18-2013, 07:22 AM   #47
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Hyphy, those can be cleaned with Pre-Wow and Black Wow. The pre-wow will break down that.... whatever that is... that's coating the plastic surfaces. The Black Wow will restore the luster.

Alternatively, you can use some Adam's All Purpose Cleaner to break up that product on the plastic.
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      07-23-2013, 06:12 AM   #48
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update car comes 24 to port hueneme then installs performance exhaust and kidney grills will arrive me in san diego 29th.

I have bought a couple more things for detailing lol spent prob close to 1400

Found out I bought wrong p21s wheel spray had to buy Gel heard it was better.

Leatherique 16oz. Kit
P21S Gel Wheel Cleaner 500 Ml Kit
Optimum Opti-Seal - 8 oz
Brinkmann 800-2200-0 Dual Xenon Rechargeable Spotlight
P21S 100% Carnauba Paste Wax
PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher
1 Chemical Guys Black on Black - 11 oz
1 Chemical Guys Grime Reaper A.P.C. - 16 oz (w/CG Clear Trigger)
1 Einszett Cockpit Premium - 500 ml
1 DI Brushes Boar's Hair Detailing Brush - 1"
1 Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 - 32 oz
1 Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 - 32 oz
1 Lake Country Pink Very Light Cutting Pad - 5.5 inch
1 Lake Country Hydro Tech Cyan Light Cutting and Polishing Pad - 5.5 inch
1 Lake Country 3" Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 XP - 73 mm
1 Lake Country 5" Backing Plate for Porter Cable 7424 XP - 125 mm
1 Lake Country Pink Very Light Cutting Pad - 4 inch $
1 Lake Country Hydro Tech Cyan Light Cutting and Polishing Pad - 4 inch

Now I need to figure out the steps
Remove the film protection
use foam gun with citrus wash to clean everything then I think i run water over the area I foamed, then wash with my mitt.

do this to entire car then switch foam gun to a pressure add on
start on rims with water pressure than use p21s gel let it sit for a bit while spraying wells. brush insides use small brusg for lugs then wash mitt clean use terminator for tar seal done.

then rewash whole car I believe this is where I can start clay bar.
then search for imperfections marring exc..

Use PC with 105 meg and pink cutting pad i believe on low speed then switch to 205 and Cyan Light Cutting and Polishing Pad to finish the polish. I dunno if I need to wash the car again or I can go straight to sealing the paint with diamond then let sure for 12 hour ish then I dont know if I need to rewash car before wax or if I can just wax need to read up more or if someone can answer.
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      07-23-2013, 10:15 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobotvu View Post
Remove the film protection
use foam gun with citrus wash to clean everything then I think i run water over the area I foamed, then wash with my mitt.
Correct.

Quote:
do this to entire car then switch foam gun to a pressure add on
start on rims with water pressure than use p21s gel let it sit for a bit while spraying wells.
the p21s is meant to break up road grime and brake dust. You most likely won't have this issue. Also, the product may be meant to be used on dry wheels. Check the directions before using. You can always spray the wheels down but you may be wasting product.

brush insides use small brusg for lugs then wash mitt clean use terminator for tar seal done. then rewash whole car I believe this is where I can start clay bar.[/quote]

You shouldn't have to rewash the car after your initial post-citrus wash. The idea is to get the body surface as free of debris as possible before claying. There shouldn't be anything on your panels that can be taken off with less than a claybar.

You've sort of skipped what you're planning to do with the clay. Again, since your car is new, there should be very little contamination in the paint. Use a detail spray and a latex glove to feel for embedded contaminants in the paint. The latex glove will allow you to feel them very easily and will not get any oils from your fingers on the paint.

If you feel any contaminants, run the clay over the paint until it comes off. Once that's done, inspect for any maaring left by the claying process. Repeat for every surface you are planning to seal with the opti-coat. I would suggest washing or at the very least using an IPA solution on the panels you've clayed to remove any leftover product from your claying at this point.

Quote:
Use PC with 105 meg and pink cutting pad i believe on low speed then switch to 205 and Cyan Light Cutting and Polishing Pad to finish the polish.
The 105 is used to correct moderate defects. You most likely will not need to do this step. The 205 should only be used on panels that have imperfections left by the claying process or panels that have light defects from the shipping process. If you cannot see any imperfections in the paint (be sure to use PLENTY of light), there's no reason to polish. If you have moderate to heavy defects, that's unacceptable and should be professionally corrected (in my opinion).

Quote:
The I dunno if I need to wash the car again or I can go straight to sealing the paint with diamond then let sure for 12 hour ish then I dont know if I need to rewash car before wax or if I can just wax need to read up more or if someone can answer.
You do not need to wash the car post-polish. The polish should be worked until it is completely gone. Learning the correct amount of polish to apply to the pad can be a pain, but if the polish is taking a long time to flash away, you may be using too much.

Post-polish, you're ready for the sealant. Apply it and use your PC or buff it off by hand. Please read the directions regarding both suggested application methods and curing time. Not allowing the sealant to properly sure before waxing may prevent the sealant from properly bonding with the paint, which drastically shortens the life of the applied product.

Last edited by cheshirecat79; 07-23-2013 at 01:00 PM..
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      07-23-2013, 11:46 AM   #50
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Me clean magic eraser is great

Quote:
Originally Posted by hyphy1 View Post
What about the deeeeeetails...

anything for that?
I use it to clean off left over compounds and polished on the trim and rubber pices
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      07-23-2013, 02:49 PM   #51
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Thanks alot cheshirecat79 yah I did skip a few things cause I didn't want to bore anyone but I plan to use the Ultra Slick Dodo juice with the clay bar. I was just going to clay the entire car except rims. I will probably let it cure from sealant for a day to make sure before waxing. I have both Opti Seal and Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection,and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze. I have not decided which one is better, or use on different parts of the car
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      07-23-2013, 03:12 PM   #52
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The Klasse SG is pretty amazing- just check out some forums regarding application. It can be a pain in the ass to remove if you don't do it right. That being said, it's one of the best long-term sealants on the market.

You may want to invest in the Klasse AIO later on.
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      07-23-2013, 03:28 PM   #53
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Is there a way to temporarily hide/fill swirls in the meantime before I get them all polished out? Preferably a way to do it by hand.

Autobotvu looks like he's getting a detailing arsenal going!
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      07-23-2013, 03:34 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheshirecat79 View Post
The Klasse SG is pretty amazing- just check out some forums regarding application. It can be a pain in the ass to remove if you don't do it right. That being said, it's one of the best long-term sealants on the market.

You may want to invest in the Klasse AIO later on.
I bought the Kit so I have AIO and more Pads . I believe I bought AIO for metal and emblems
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      07-24-2013, 11:20 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNG View Post
Is there a way to temporarily hide/fill swirls in the meantime before I get them all polished out? Preferably a way to do it by hand.
Autobotvu looks like he's getting a detailing arsenal going!
Any kind of wax or sealant with fillers (usually referred to as a glaze) will fill in scratches temporarily. Just remember that the filler is usually pretty soft and may wear off quickly depending on how often you wash, how much you drive and in what kind of conditions. It's not rare for fillers to wear off after the second wash.

As far as products that fill well, there's several- I would suggest:
Meguiar's #5 New Car Glaze
Meguiar's #7 Mirror Glaze
Pinnacle's XMT Finishing Glaze is supposed to be pretty good also but I haven't used it personally.
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      07-24-2013, 06:19 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNG View Post
Is there a way to temporarily hide/fill swirls in the meantime before I get them all polished out? Preferably a way to do it by hand.

Autobotvu looks like he's getting a detailing arsenal going!
Haha yah everything but a vac and go i will probably get on next paycheck
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      07-24-2013, 07:47 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyphy1 View Post
What about the deeeeeetails...

anything for that?
Wrap the windshield spray nozzles with painters tape to protect the paint and then go to town with your favorite plastic cleaner/protectant. I used 2-3 coats of 303 Aerospace Protectant which turned the nozzles dark black, they look brand new. I would do the same for the sunroof shield, but you won't have to tape anything off.
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      07-25-2013, 09:36 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNG View Post
Is there a way to temporarily hide/fill swirls in the meantime before I get them all polished out? Preferably a way to do it by hand.

Autobotvu looks like he's getting a detailing arsenal going!
You can try something like Auto Finesse Tripple its a nice product and will hide and protect for a few weeks before you can get to the correction.
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      07-25-2013, 09:38 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyphy1 View Post
What about the deeeeeetails...

anything for that?
you can use something like Adam's Super VRT or Black Wow for abs plastic trim pieces.

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      07-25-2013, 02:27 PM   #60
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      07-26-2013, 07:40 AM   #61
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Ack just spent like 2 hours debating on the Metro Vac & Go or Metro Air Force Blaster. I went with the Cheaper Metro Vac & Go hope I won't be disappointed.
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      07-26-2013, 10:30 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autobotvu View Post
Ack just spent like 2 hours debating on the Metro Vac & Go or Metro Air Force Blaster. I went with the Cheaper Metro Vac & Go hope I won't be disappointed.
It's not a bad unit at all, but I personally prefer vacuuming with a longer hose and leaving the actual unit outside.
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      07-31-2013, 02:46 PM   #63
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Can I use pink or cyan with m205 to finish? or do I need to buy the black pad or can I use the white one that came with porter cable?
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      07-31-2013, 03:33 PM   #64
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I would say pick up a black pad for the wax.

or even a red one for wax.

Adam's Foam Buffing Pad Red
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      08-02-2013, 02:56 AM   #65
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My car was suppose to come monday/tuesday It arrived at port on 24th. They had to install Performance Exhaust and kidney grills. Said would be here monday.

Went in on Tuesday no car signed all papers bought 313 rims there for 2500. They gave me a used 328i as a loaner I love it , but I want my car. They said should be here Tuesday at some point. Wednesday mourning came then I check my email:

"I'm not sure why but your car is still not here...so just stay in the car I put you in and I will let you know as soon as it hits...barring anything crazy we certainly should be able to do this early tomorrow"

Grrr Just arrived in the states and all ready cheating on me :P!!!
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      08-03-2013, 12:23 PM   #66
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YAAAAAY http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=872742
I want to detail it now, but I got work soon so can't drive it to work or detail it.
Is it ok not to detail for 3 days since I don't have time and have to work till tuesday.
Gosh I wanna drive it >.>

Last edited by Autobotvu; 08-03-2013 at 12:53 PM..
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