COBB or JB4 G5 ISO, beaten to death

[gemini.m3]

But looking for some fresh opinions.. I am one of the lucky few that has a 12 n55 built in 11 that Cobb supports ECU however I know that ROM version can get finicky.

Sheesh I just did PPK1 and PE and I'm just left wanting more power (i knew this was going to happen but I thought the PPK1/PE would be a great baseline) -- I don't think I'm ever going the route of a downpipe and while I hate the possibility of warranty issues.. I think either JB4/Cobb + FMIC / charge pipe no reason the car would 'break down'

Question is which one? JB4 is cheaper but for some1 not mechanically inclined taking on/off for every service visit doesn't sound like a great option.. but have the COBB AP V3 n55 maps proven to be as good or better than a N55 JB4 piggybacked car?

Questions.. just questions!

[Grinchxvx]

After you install the jb4 once you will be able to do it quicker everytime, i would get the jb4 since it has more features and seems to be making more power.

[Elsabor67]

It depends on what you want to get out of the car. Also, if your main concern is them seeing the JB4 for service, then go Cobb. Also you can see if it can be pro-tuned instead of using the Cobb OTS maps.

[Stvee]

You don't have to be mechanically inclined to install JB4. It's pretty simple stuff.

I'd go with JB4. It's cheaper, has safety features built in that cobb doesn't, tends to make more power than the cobb off-the-shelf maps, and it doesn't need a retune every time you change mods.

If you go cobb and get a pro-tune you might make a little more power, but this ends up costing close to 3 times as much as the JB4 by the time you have the car tuned and you have to retune with every mod change.

[jturboawd]

I have jb4 flash and love it. I logged everything often and can say flash, in general, is much better. If *********** has a flash for use with jb4 that's what I would do. It's best of both worlds. If not I would go Cobb and protune when bored . This is just my experience, some get great logs off piggyback.

[runnerlk]

I've heard great things about the jb4, but opted for the Cobb with a custom map from ptf. for the same reasons you described. And I am so glad I did because a few weeks ago I was coming home from a business trip, hopped in my 1er at the airport, headed home and the water pump went. So at 10pm I'm waiting for BMW roadside assistance to tow me to the dealer, I pull out my trusty AP and 2 minutes later I'm back to stock. even though my dealer is mod friendly, my luck would be i get towed in while the BMW rep is on site.

Anyway, just my experience.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Stack the tunes with the JB4 & the COBB running the BMS backend flash.

[gemini.m3]

Thanks for the input, still undecided but leaning towards JB4.. I guess once you get the install down it should be pretty straight forward taking it out.. i do like the 'on the fly' stuff.. for example.. since I do have the PPK 1 baseline I'd probably run that 90% of the time and the 10% i wanted to really go faster and ride the car I'd switch to a JB4 map

[Stvee]

Originally Posted by ntsthrilla

Thanks for the input, still undecided but leaning towards JB4.. I guess once you get the install down it should be pretty straight forward taking it out.. i do like the 'on the fly' stuff.. for example.. since I do have the PPK 1 baseline I'd probably run that 90% of the time and the 10% i wanted to really go faster and ride the car I'd switch to a JB4 map

Just put it on Map 5 and forget it. You won't be hurting the car. If it starts knocking for some reason, the JB4 will automatically back off on the tune. And if things get really out of wack for some reason, JB4 disables the tune automatically.

[fryj00]

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

Stack the tunes with the JB4 & the COBB running the BMS backend flash.

+1

I will be doing this shortly.

[Stvee]

Originally Posted by fryj00

+1

I will be doing this shortly.

Isn't there a free way to do that without Cobb?

[_Ryan_]

An ECU is only as good as it's tune (within reason). Your requirement is ease of removal, therefore find a plug and play solution for which you can get a solid tune from a reputable tuner.

R

[mike@x-ph.com]

Jb4 removal is not that bad once you do it couple of times.
That being said if this is a priority for your (easy removal) just get the Cobb.

[Nugget]

DCT or Manual?
If DCT then definitely go with a flash and get a pro tune from PTF.

[6MT_Addict]

From what I've seen JB4 is more widely used for cost vs power benefit being higher than COBB. As was said about you can get both with the back end flash. My buddy has this setup along with meth, DCI, downpipes, and a couple other tweaks. His car now puts out just below 500hp/500ftlbs at the wheels on 94 octane.

[gemini.m3]

why a flash tune over jb4 for dct?

whats the reason thx :0

[Nugget]

Very basically the DCT relies on load from the DME to determine how much clamping pressure it needs.
If you are running JB4 only then the reported load will be much lower than actual load and the clutches will start to slip. Either run flash only or Jb4 and backend flash.
I think there is more discussion about it on N54tech.

[gemini.m3]

Interesting Nugget. That makes me re-think everything. I do have a 6/11 built 2012, so my DME is supported but I'm concerned about the ROM I don't want to spend $800+ just to not have the supported ROM, how quick are they about getting you support? What about if you have PPK1? does that change the ROM? or just the software uploaded to ROM?

[Socal_Aviator]

Originally Posted by ntsthrilla

Interesting Nugget. That makes me re-think everything. I do have a 6/11 built 2012, so my DME is supported but I'm concerned about the ROM I don't want to spend $800+ just to not have the supported ROM, how quick are they about getting you support? What about if you have PPK1? does that change the ROM? or just the software uploaded to ROM?

Unfortunately you are not close to a Cobb location because all it takes is to plug in the Cobb and see if it works. It is black and white. It either works 100% or doesn't. "ROM not supported" will show on the Cobb AP if it doesn't work.

I also have a 2012 built in 2011 with the supported ROM on the N55 engine. I was excited to find out the Cobb worked.

There was no way I was doing a JB4. After having Cobb dyno/pro tune my GTR I l learned and realized I would never push the performance limits of an engine with any piggyback system. IMO modifying ECU signals and relying on the ECU to compensate for large airflow and fuel requirement variances is unacceptable. This is why I love Cobb. It is a genuine ECU reflash.

[Nugget]

Originally Posted by ntsthrilla

Interesting Nugget. That makes me re-think everything. I do have a 6/11 built 2012, so my DME is supported but I'm concerned about the ROM I don't want to spend $800+ just to not have the supported ROM, how quick are they about getting you support? What about if you have PPK1? does that change the ROM? or just the software uploaded to ROM?

I had to get my rom updated by the dealer. Tried using a SIB I found on here but ended up paying for it.
Right now I am actually using both JB4 and Cobb flash.

[potxoli]

Originally Posted by Socal_Aviator

Unfortunately you are not close to a Cobb location because all it takes is to plug in the Cobb and see if it works. It is black and white. It either works 100% or doesn't. "ROM not supported" will show on the Cobb AP if it doesn't work.

So if you order from Cobb and it is "not supported", do they take the unit back for full refund? I've been on the fence about JB4 vs COBB for a while and while I would rather get COBB due to convenience, but I'm afraid to be left hanging with an expensive paperweight if it does not work.

[Nugget]

Originally Posted by potxoli

So if you order from Cobb and it is "not supported", do they take the unit back for full refund? I've been on the fence about JB4 vs COBB for a while and while I would rather get COBB due to convenience, but I'm afraid to be left hanging with an expensive paperweight if it does not work.

Email Cobb with the last 7 digits of your VIN they will tell you if the car will be compatible.
Even if it is you may still need a software update from a dealer. You won't find this out until you plug in the Access Port.
If you do find SIB120912, print it out and bring it in complaining about poor idling. This has worked for some people. Over here they just told me they don't care about SIBs from the US.