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03-24-2014, 06:28 AM | #23 |
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Had my 5" installed along with dci and vrsf charge pipe and tial bov. Switched to cobb map stage 1+ fmic. Local shop put my car back in dyno after they installed all this and my coupler on driver side where the discharge pipe meets the elbow keeps popping off. I hope they get it sorted out for me. Anyone have this problem also?
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03-24-2014, 11:13 AM | #24 |
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I could see how that could be an issue.
When I did mine I wedged something above the charge pipe to hold it down (it would push up an inch or so on its own) when installing the 2 tbolt clamps on that side. The play in the charge pipe made the install difficult at first. With the play removed from the charge pipe it was easier to adjust the hose and clamps from below. |
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03-26-2014, 06:14 PM | #25 |
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Does the VRSF FMIC come with some instructions, as to exact cutting, etc? Can some one share the best DIY or bundled PDF file maybe (a la COBB FMIC)?
Thanks.
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2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
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03-26-2014, 06:33 PM | #26 | |
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E88 Crimson Red Vert MSport 6MT - Listing your mods in your signature is lame. BMS DCI/MHD E30 Flash!!/AA Sport FMIC/VRSF CP w Tial BOV/VRSF 3" DPs/550i clutch w SPEC SMFW/Apex EC-7s/Whiteline RSFB/E92 M3 FCAs/Bilstein B12 Pro Kit/VRSF inlets |
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03-26-2014, 06:36 PM | #27 |
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03-26-2014, 06:37 PM | #28 |
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03-26-2014, 07:33 PM | #30 |
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I think that is actually the differential.
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E88 Crimson Red Vert MSport 6MT - Listing your mods in your signature is lame. BMS DCI/MHD E30 Flash!!/AA Sport FMIC/VRSF CP w Tial BOV/VRSF 3" DPs/550i clutch w SPEC SMFW/Apex EC-7s/Whiteline RSFB/E92 M3 FCAs/Bilstein B12 Pro Kit/VRSF inlets |
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12-07-2014, 04:10 PM | #32 |
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elbow pops out
hello guys, and sorry for reviving an old thread.
My connection that goes from the turbo to the passenger side of the intercooler keeps popping out. in your pictures I see there is a metal tube in between the intercooler, and the turbo outlet pipe. i don't have this... from the intercooler, a plastic elbow connects to the plastic tubing that comes from the turbo. this connection keeps popping out. any one had this problem?? thanks! |
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12-07-2014, 10:18 PM | #33 |
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The N54 is a metal pipe coming from the turbos. The N55 (your 2011) has a plastic pipe.
You probably just didn't get the clamp on properly. The pipe coming from the turbos should have some sort of knurl or bump around it and you need to make sure the clamp isn't actually ON that bump or it won't seal. Or you may not have tightened it enough.
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Last edited by Freon; 12-07-2014 at 10:34 PM.. |
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12-15-2014, 12:36 PM | #34 |
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Ouch, man that must have been painful... WOW
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01-14-2015, 10:07 AM | #35 |
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keeps popping out!
Thanks for the answer guys.
The thing KEEPS POPPING out damn it. attached is a picture of the plastic tube. the circled part I removed becasue I want told I had to for my set up. Am I wrong? i dont know what to do. i retorqued al the clamps and if i pressed any harder, i would bend the plastic and the ring inside it. it just seems like the silicone coupler is too short. By the way, i have a stage 2 vargas turbo. Please helpppp |
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01-15-2015, 09:58 AM | #37 |
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You can see there is a small rolled edge on the pipe. If you can at least pull the silicone coupler over that by about 3/4" (or about 1" total including the rolled edge) you can get the clamp on the side of it. If you tighten that clamp there's no reason it should pop off.
You can also see a wider area on the hardpipe formed for the clamp to clamp to. Make sure the clamp is square to the surface (not crooked). Make sure the hose is on straight. If it come on an angle it won't hold as well either. See my post and picture above.
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02-04-2015, 07:24 AM | #38 | |
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keeps popping out!
Quote:
Is there any aftermarket tube for this part? If I want to attach my own tube with a silicone coupler to the turbo, how should i hold it? the turbo outlet is really small and i dont think a coupler will get a good grip. this sucks balls, and i have a td this sunday... |
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02-04-2015, 02:20 PM | #39 |
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IAT RISING!
Also, being that this thread is for the intercooler review, please checkout my log. My IAT still rises, even with the meth and the intercooler. anyone have any ideas? or is this rise normal for my set up?
Below is a datazap. http://datazap.me/u/jbarzelatto/fmic...ata=1-4-5-6-16 |
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02-04-2015, 03:50 PM | #40 |
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IAT will slowly rise as the heat mass of the intercooler slows the system's climb towards equilibrium. A bar and plate intercooler has a lot of mass so that process takes longer. You can see in your logs it is tapering off around 160F. The more the intercooler heats up, the more total heat it can reject to ambient air. But when it is cool some of the heat just heats up the several kilograms of aluminum which make up the intercooler.
It's hard to say if that is bad or not without knowing the ambient temperature and the temperature of charge air coming out of the turbo. How hot is it in Chile? If it's 32C or higher and you are running ~14psi out of the poor little stock turbocharger maybe that's not too bad. That would be horrible for me in Indiana right now where it is about 0C!
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02-05-2015, 07:21 AM | #41 | |
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high iat
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any help is greatly appreciated. |
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01-04-2020, 03:31 PM | #42 | |
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Need help
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Last edited by Skotcoop; 01-04-2020 at 04:30 PM.. |
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01-04-2020, 07:16 PM | #43 |
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The 3rd silicone sleeve is the one that comes with your chargepipe. So it would go ic to silicone boot to lower cp to 45 degree boot to cp.
Or if using oem clips, and oem lower cp, the bellows type boot connects to ic, then lower cp. Then 45 degree boot to cp. I tried to post a pic but it wont let me. |
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01-05-2020, 12:01 AM | #44 | |
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