N54 Engine Removal link anyone??

Curtis135i · 04-07-2018, 07:17 AM

I will be attempting (rod bearing replacement from underneath) in the next following weeks.
I had to order a shorter tow hook...for the engine support bar I bought yesterday, got it at Harbor Freight. I’ll probably need the special tool #11 0 30 for oil pump sprocket alignment (to keep it the the same position)
Then when I finally get in there.. I should know which colors my bearings are. (For ordering)
On the S65 I read they are only red and blue
With the N54 it’s a combination of 4 colors.

I did catch that in TIS it stated pistons had to be removed too.. for S65..which makes me feel better. Since it’s being done from underneath.

I know there is a difference from what TIS says about how to repair something verses what the actual mechanics are doing.
But I don’t know this yet, some you have to follow, some you don’t. More experience equals more knowledge.

Curtis135i · 04-14-2018, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

This is exactly how the shops do the rod bearings on S54/S65 engines all the time.

Coated bearings, ARP studs, done.

Talk to a reputable indy shop if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.

Thank you for this.. totally possible, and you don’t even need to remove the oil pump. I haven’t installed new yet, but I checked all the existing bearings, and cylinder 1? Closest to the front of the car under the oil pump.. that Conrod bearing(s) spun.
It didn’t score the crank either..

Curtis135i · 04-14-2018, 11:09 PM

I want to mention that MMP engineering helped me out, as I first emailed MMP for possible engine rebuild quote. I sent a following email to tell Mauricio I found the spun bearing in cylinder 1 and that it didn’t damage anything so I’m going to repair it on my own, and asked him for a recommendation on new bearings.
He then gave me a call and we talked for a few, and he said King Bearings are best.

Here is what I purchased.. King Bearings, part number: CR222SV $120 on eBay.

I also ordered new Rod bolts from ECS Tuning,
BMW OEM, $2.33 each

I’ll be installing them when I get all my parts in.

I got some plastigage (green) from NAPA to check clearances.. (12” for $3) TIS tells you to use the plastigage when fitting the new bearings, tighten to torque/angle with the old bolts, then disassemble and check clearance,
Then if all is good, lube new bolts, oil bearings, and tighten to torque/angle. Done.

Curtis135i · 05-18-2018, 09:15 PM

Okay.. finally. After taking my time, I’ve completed all 12 new rod bearings (upper/lower) with new rod bolts. Today I was able to bleed the coolant and then fire up the engine..
It’s seems to run and idle really nice.
I also replaced the water pump and thermostat, two idler pulleys and tensioner pulley with a new belt.. also installed MMP charge pipe with a ebay BOV, everything fit nicely and functions good so far. One thing I did instead of plugging the old diverter valve holes.. i decided to put small air filters from Speedway on there. I think it should allow a little more air to the turbos.. yeah warm air but should be okay. (I like and keep the original air box)
My water pump was original with 114k miles!!
What the heck..
I took it apart to inspect it.. and it was on its way to seize up. The center magnetic spindal part covered in plastic.. was actually cracking and chipping.. this was likely the buzzing noise I heard. Yet it still worked.
So the blessing in disguise of the bad bearing was catching the water pump before seizing and learning how to access the underneath part of the car.. (removing steering and subframe) it’s so nice to work on with those parts out of the way.

I wanted to update on the engine knock, yeah it was a spun bearing caught early,
and yes the rod bearings can be changed out from underneath..

Thanks for the comments from the beginning guys.

Curtis135i · 05-19-2018, 10:10 PM

Oh yeah.. silky smooth.. had it to redline in 3rd today.. hahaha

QuebecDIY · 10-28-2018, 06:45 PM

I am actually working on Rebuilding my engine block.
I am shooting videos about it.

You can find videos on how to remove the engine (WITHOUT REMOVING FRONT END OF YOUR CAR) on my YouTube channel "Quebec DIY". It is a work in progress.
You can subscribe if you want, and you'll get warned by e-mail when a new video is posted.

It should help you a lot if you want to do it yourself.
Rebuild in progress. More videos to come...

Engine Removal is covered through 17 videos.
01 Underhood Shield Removal (Actual Youtube name: 01 BMW 135i N54 E82 - Engine Removal - Underhodd shield Removal)
02 Gas Pressure Relief (Actual Youtube name: 01 BMW 135i N54 E82 - Engine Removal - Gas Pressure Relief)
03 Air Cabin Filter and Engine Cover Removal
04 Intake Air Duct Removal
05 Radiator Fan Removal
06 Intercooler Removal
07 Throttle Body Air Pipe Removal
08 Vacuum Accumulators Removal
09 Water Pump Removal
10 Radiator and Thermostat Removal
11 Vacuum Valve Bracket Removal
12 Pre-Catalyst Removal
13 Belt, Accessories 1st step, Intake, Starter Removal
14 Exhaust, Heat Shield, Drive Shaft Removal
15 Transmission Removal
16 Accessories 2nd Step, Wiring, Fuel Line Removal
17 Engine Removal Final

Check on my Youtube channel to find all of the videos. They start with numbers (in the order that tasks were performed).
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrf...VKDUi-w/videos

Here is the link to 3 play lists for engine removal.

BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 1/3

BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 2/3

BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 3/3

Muz180 · 07-24-2019, 11:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Curtis135i

Oh yeah.. silky smooth.. had it to redline in 3rd today.. hahaha

Reviving this old post cuz I have rod knock and metal shavings in my oil filter. Did you have rod knock on yours? Is it too late for me to just replace bearings? How is your car holding up?

335iN54enthusiast · 09-02-2019, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Curtis135i

Does anyone know of a link to a N54 engine removal/installation?
My 135i has a Rod bearing going out, which I caught early.. my mechanic
said it’s likely not spun yet..
Lots of shavings in oil filter.
114k miles on a 2008.
It’s sad.. but I’m hopeful and determined to get this fixed.

Heres vids of removal

https://youtu.be/nsunbgNdWBw
https://youtu.be/S06620ihw48
https://youtu.be/7a_YELgOpmI
https://youtu.be/BJAvlSxyo5c

04-07-2018, 07:17 AM	#23
Curtis135i Enlisted Member 8 Rep 45 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Toledo OH iTrader: (0)	I will be attempting (rod bearing replacement from underneath) in the next following weeks. I had to order a shorter tow hook...for the engine support bar I bought yesterday, got it at Harbor Freight. I’ll probably need the special tool #11 0 30 for oil pump sprocket alignment (to keep it the the same position) Then when I finally get in there.. I should know which colors my bearings are. (For ordering) On the S65 I read they are only red and blue With the N54 it’s a combination of 4 colors. I did catch that in TIS it stated pistons had to be removed too.. for S65..which makes me feel better. Since it’s being done from underneath. I know there is a difference from what TIS says about how to repair something verses what the actual mechanics are doing. But I don’t know this yet, some you have to follow, some you don’t. More experience equals more knowledge.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-14-2018, 11:09 PM	#25
Curtis135i Enlisted Member 8 Rep 45 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Toledo OH iTrader: (0)	I want to mention that MMP engineering helped me out, as I first emailed MMP for possible engine rebuild quote. I sent a following email to tell Mauricio I found the spun bearing in cylinder 1 and that it didn’t damage anything so I’m going to repair it on my own, and asked him for a recommendation on new bearings. He then gave me a call and we talked for a few, and he said King Bearings are best. Here is what I purchased.. King Bearings, part number: CR222SV $120 on eBay. I also ordered new Rod bolts from ECS Tuning, BMW OEM, $2.33 each I’ll be installing them when I get all my parts in. I got some plastigage (green) from NAPA to check clearances.. (12” for $3) TIS tells you to use the plastigage when fitting the new bearings, tighten to torque/angle with the old bolts, then disassemble and check clearance, Then if all is good, lube new bolts, oil bearings, and tighten to torque/angle. Done.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

05-18-2018, 09:15 PM	#26
Curtis135i Enlisted Member 8 Rep 45 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Toledo OH iTrader: (0)	Okay.. finally. After taking my time, I’ve completed all 12 new rod bearings (upper/lower) with new rod bolts. Today I was able to bleed the coolant and then fire up the engine.. It’s seems to run and idle really nice. I also replaced the water pump and thermostat, two idler pulleys and tensioner pulley with a new belt.. also installed MMP charge pipe with a ebay BOV, everything fit nicely and functions good so far. One thing I did instead of plugging the old diverter valve holes.. i decided to put small air filters from Speedway on there. I think it should allow a little more air to the turbos.. yeah warm air but should be okay. (I like and keep the original air box) My water pump was original with 114k miles!! What the heck.. I took it apart to inspect it.. and it was on its way to seize up. The center magnetic spindal part covered in plastic.. was actually cracking and chipping.. this was likely the buzzing noise I heard. Yet it still worked. So the blessing in disguise of the bad bearing was catching the water pump before seizing and learning how to access the underneath part of the car.. (removing steering and subframe) it’s so nice to work on with those parts out of the way. I wanted to update on the engine knock, yeah it was a spun bearing caught early, and yes the rod bearings can be changed out from underneath.. Thanks for the comments from the beginning guys.
	Appreciate 2 Gangplank1540.50 Tenspeed34.00 Quote

05-19-2018, 10:10 PM	#27
Curtis135i Enlisted Member 8 Rep 45 Posts Drives: 2008 135i Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Toledo OH iTrader: (0)	Oh yeah.. silky smooth.. had it to redline in 3rd today.. hahaha
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-28-2018, 06:45 PM	#28
QuebecDIY Private 54 Rep 59 Posts Drives: 135i 2008 Coupe Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Montreal iTrader: (0)	I am actually working on Rebuilding my engine block. I am shooting videos about it. You can find videos on how to remove the engine (WITHOUT REMOVING FRONT END OF YOUR CAR) on my YouTube channel "Quebec DIY". It is a work in progress. You can subscribe if you want, and you'll get warned by e-mail when a new video is posted. It should help you a lot if you want to do it yourself. Rebuild in progress. More videos to come... Engine Removal is covered through 17 videos. 01 Underhood Shield Removal (Actual Youtube name: 01 BMW 135i N54 E82 - Engine Removal - Underhodd shield Removal) 02 Gas Pressure Relief (Actual Youtube name: 01 BMW 135i N54 E82 - Engine Removal - Gas Pressure Relief) 03 Air Cabin Filter and Engine Cover Removal 04 Intake Air Duct Removal 05 Radiator Fan Removal 06 Intercooler Removal 07 Throttle Body Air Pipe Removal 08 Vacuum Accumulators Removal 09 Water Pump Removal 10 Radiator and Thermostat Removal 11 Vacuum Valve Bracket Removal 12 Pre-Catalyst Removal 13 Belt, Accessories 1st step, Intake, Starter Removal 14 Exhaust, Heat Shield, Drive Shaft Removal 15 Transmission Removal 16 Accessories 2nd Step, Wiring, Fuel Line Removal 17 Engine Removal Final Check on my Youtube channel to find all of the videos. They start with numbers (in the order that tasks were performed). https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrf...VKDUi-w/videos Here is the link to 3 play lists for engine removal. BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 1/3 BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 2/3 BMW 135i (N54) Engine Removal DIY 3/3 Last edited by QuebecDIY; 11-06-2018 at 09:17 PM..
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